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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    If you ran more housing, they don't get in the way. Glad you liked it.
    Good point, I really thought I would hate it so I just used the housing from my flat bars rather than cut new ones. It was a real stretch, haha!

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sizzler View Post
    I decided to throw some dirt drops on my Bontrager and it really sucked! The problem was I had convinced myself I would hate them, so when I ended up loving them I got all mixed up inside. It climbs like a spider monkey, cruises like a crown victoria and descends like a flying squirrel. Now, I'm left to pick up the pieces and decide how to rebuild the bike around them! The only issues I had were the vintage gran-compe levers, which look great but the cables were in the way and I need more meat to grab onto, so I think I'll use some modern Cane Creek's like rigidftw. Also, that heinous rastafied cinelli world champion tape needs to go!
    it gets better when you lower those brake levers by an in..
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  3. #203
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    Cool, I'll keep that in mind when I re-wrap them!

    Also, how is a drop bar thread missing this picture?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-jt-dd.jpg  


  4. #204
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    New to drops

    I have a question about compatibility of levers and shifters, new to the drops so as you can see I have no idea. I picked up some NOS Dia Comp levers





    and Suntour shifters





    that I think will work for this application but I'm turning to the ones who know for sure....will they? Oh, and for shawnw, I have your brake pads, you are going to like them.

    Too many bikes, and just enough time to ride them.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by proto2000 View Post
    I have a question about compatibility of levers and shifters, new to the drops so as you can see I have no idea. I picked up some NOS Dia Comp levers

    and Suntour shifters

    that I think will work for this application but I'm turning to the ones who know for sure....will they? Oh, and for shawnw, I have your brake pads, you are going to like them.
    Those levers are, I think, for V-brakes (hence the "V" in the model number). If that's what you're going to run on your drop bar bike, then great. If you're running canti's or some rollercam variant then nope.

    Haven't seen a lot of people run those Suntour Command shifters on a flared drop setup, but there's a whole lot of personal preference that goes into shifter selection and placement on these. I'd suggest some riding, fiddling and experimentation before you do a "final" bar wrap.

    I hope shawnw has a lot of thick-walled rims to go with those brake pads. ;p

  6. #206
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    Installed some dirt drops on my old Schwinn tonight using a VooDoo stem. Made it into a gravel bike for winter rides. I'll have to try it out tomorrow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-rsz_dsc02565.jpg  

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-rsz_dsc02566.jpg  

    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  7. #207
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    If you decide those shifters aren't for you, just send them my way!

    frog

  8. #208
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    Wow!

    That is one eclectic setup! Looks like a bike shiggy would own! Curious about the Voodoo stem, I keep wanting to order one, but they sure ain't cheap! How much exposed steerer do you need for installation?

    frog

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    you can tell how the VRC crowd feels about those, based on the discussion of my bike...
    you mean the one pro canti comment?

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by proto2000 View Post
    I have a question about compatibility of levers and shifters, new to the drops so as you can see I have no idea. I picked up some NOS Dia Comp levers and Suntour shifters that I think will work for this application but I'm turning to the ones who know for sure....will they?
    Those levers and shifters will work just fine together. That's the exact combination I used on my MB-1, shown just a few posts back in this very thread, and I couldn't be happier with them.

    Those shifters have a lot of position adjustment options, so it'll take some time to get them "just right." I've never spent so much time fine tuning mounting positions, cants, and bar angles as I did with this setup, but it works great in the end. You'll swear that the shifter thumb levers are rotated 180 degrees off from where they should be when you're putting them together, but they're very easy to operate when riding, even in the intended position.

    BTW: When installing the bar tape, I was able to loop around the shifter pedestal, reverse directions twice, and then then continue back along the original route, which gave me pretty thorough coverage. Hard to explain, but you can kind of see it in my photos.

    @halaburt is correct that you'll need V-brakes though. That's a whole other discussion, and you can tell how the VRC crowd feels about those, based on the discussion of my bike...
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    you mean the one pro canti comment?
    Well... one respected comment, I guess. But a general sense gleened from other threads as well. Didn't I once even see you yourself say that you thought pre-V brakes was sort of a natural cutoff for the identification of vintage versus non-vintage bikes?
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 cog frog View Post
    That is one eclectic setup! Looks like a bike shiggy would own! Curious about the Voodoo stem, I keep wanting to order one, but they sure ain't cheap! How much exposed steerer do you need for installation?

    frog
    It's one of those run what you brung kind of builds and will certainly offend some It's not going to be a frequent ride and I wanted to use stuff I had on hand for the most part. I bought the stem and bars a while ago just to have another dirt drop set up and this seemed like a good place to hang them. The only thing I had to buy was the Shimano rear derailleur to work with the Suntour barcons since I usually run Sram.

    I don't remember the stem being very expensive. Like $75. I don't think that is a lot for a stem anyhow. There is a T slot cut into it and if you want to clear the T you need about 1 5/8" to a max of 1 3/4" steertube sticking out. If you're not concerned with covering the top of the T you could probably get away with less. It's built pretty stout.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    Well... one respected comment, I guess. But a general sense gleened from other threads as well. Didn't I once even see you yourself say that you thought pre-V brakes was sort of a natural cutoff for the identification of vintage versus non-vintage bikes?
    You're absolutely right. That is my own personal cutoff for my own bikes but when people posts bikes, I generally try not to be hypercritical unless it's a veiled for sale outing or something is very very wrong with the bike. V brakes doesn't fall into the very very wrong category in my opinion.

  14. #214
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    Good stuff..really enjoying the drop bars on the fixed gear mtb




  15. #215
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    Is it not awkward riding drops on a mountain bike?

    Anyone ever put bullhorns on a mountain bike?

  16. #216
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    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  17. #217
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    I'd like a 'cool' stem for my DD build, but these prices are stunning!

    eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

    Nice Salsa stem and all, but I'd be hard pressed to shell out $172 for one-hope it fits the buyer's build perfectly! I guess I should feel fortunate, that stem is wrong for my build anyway.

    This is my latest project-can you say wheelbase? I knew you could! Odd geometry, but I love it and am looking forward to seeing how it rides. I didn't notice the sloping top tube until I saw this pic-I had to go measure just to be sure, and it does drop a bit, strange for a bike from this era-as far as I can tell it's an '85. I've never seen another, and would love to know the original spec. All it came with was one trashed Mavic crank arm and a set of first generation Suntour roller cams.

    It's my 'winter' build, inspired by a set of tires-I'll explain when it comes together.







    I'm in the early stages, had to mod an old Kalloy stem (wouldn't go past the bends on the bars, and the clamp was too small) to attach the bars and work on the fit, and I'm currently building some adapters so that my shifters will be directly bolted to my brake levers. I think the frameset is from '85 or so, and I'm trying to stay away from Shimano parts if possible, so far, so good, mostly Suntour XC stuff, AT crankset, and a tri-pulley ARX rear derailleur.

    I've been telling myself this is my last build.....
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogun700 View Post
    It's my 'winter' build, inspired by a set of tires-I'll explain when it comes together.

    .
    Make sure to post finished pics. I love the paint. Good luck
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  19. #219
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    Found this for sale on ebay, where else, in India.



    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  20. #220
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    How cool!

  21. #221
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    Closer, but not quite there yet....

    As I mentioned before, the whole build was inspired by a set of tires-NOS Tioga Farmer Johns that I found all studded up and not exactly practical, but I thought with the Marinoni being Canadian, a winter build might be the way to go with it even though the tires are just for pictures. I'm happy with most of it so far, I suppose I'd prefer black hoods for the levers, gotta put the XC-II's back on, and the rear shifting is pretty stiff-I will need to address that. The shifter setup has taken some time to sort out-I drilled the lever bodies in several spots to test mounting positions and had to find a way to secure them to the levers, but so far so good.

    The stem is still an issue, so no tape yet. I need 100-110mm quil extension, but with a 26.0 clamp. Ben's has Nitto DD stems with a long enough quil, but only in 25.4 clamp diameter, and the stems with a 26.0 clamp are only 90mm extension. Is it possible to ream a 25.4 to a 26.0? I'm also pretty much committed to a stem-mounted cable stop as there is not enough length to the head tube for me to fit one at the headset-I was able to solve this with a v-brake noodle (you can see it in the first pic) and it works well without binding.

    I'll probably do a build thread when it's finished and show how I mounted the shifters...I want to make sure they work as intended, if they are impractical then it's pointless.


    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  22. #222
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    If that doesn't work, you might could try these:
    Retroshift.com

  23. #223
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    the only place where you can get the nitto 26.0 is rivendell bikes:
    Nitto Dirt Drop 26.0

  24. #224
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    Thanks for the info guys, Rivendell does have a stem that might work if I can sort the brake cable routing out.
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogun700 View Post
    [IMG]As I mentioned before, the whole build was inspired by a set of tires-NOS Tioga Farmer Johns that I found all studded up and not exactly practical, but I thought with the Marinoni being Canadian, a winter build might be the way to go with it even though the tires are just for pictures.
    Maybe this is what you're saying, but the Farmer Johns are backwards, aren't they? God, I used to love those tires, but I always ran them the same way as tractors and back-hoes run their tires - rotating so that the point of the chevron struck the ground first. "Digging in" versus "shoveling." Gonna be a cool bike though. I like your shifter mod, and I'm interested to see how well it works out.
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    Maybe this is what you're saying, but the Farmer Johns are backwards, aren't they? God, I used to love those tires, but I always ran them the same way as tractors and back-hoes run their tires - rotating so that the point of the chevron struck the ground first. "Digging in" versus "shoveling." Gonna be a cool bike though. I like your shifter mod, and I'm interested to see how well it works out.

    I could not agree more about the tires....I spent an hour on the web trying to find out the correct way to mount them, found a few threads where the general consensus for tires was the labels should be on the drive side-even found one thread where a guy said something like "we've been arguing about this since the Tioga Farmer Johns came out". I really, really wanted to mount them the other way....glad you brought it up.

    Regarding the shifters-I'm sure someone else has tried what I'm doing, it's not rocket science. For most applications, it wouldn't make sense as you cannot ride on the hoods with the shifter in the way, but for DD purposes the potential pitfall is the lever being in the way of the grip area in the drops when you are in the middle gear. We will see.
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  27. #227
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    1990 Trek 950 Singletrack SS




  28. #228
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    Someone named "Othervoicez" should be contacting you soon....
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    1990 Trek 950 Singletrack SS


    /397259_3202148490784_1178247896_33435189_607654858 _n.jpg[/IMG]
    Nice bike.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  30. #230
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    I was cracking myself up with my joke this morning and nobody even gave me so much as a sympathy laugh....
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    I was cracking myself up with my joke this morning and nobody even gave me so much as a sympathy laugh....
    You can do better.


    While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.
    -eric-

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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    You can do better.


    While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.
    Offensive and beautiful at the same time.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.
    I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?
    If you're new you'll find the regulars are giving a baptism by fire. Or as some call it an enema with a garden hose. You need thick skin to hang here.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  35. #235
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    Just having fun, don't take it personal.....

    Your bike just reminded me of a fun thread here on VRC



    I used to try to run any crazy colored tire I could find
    I have had so many I cant list them all
    the wild gripper by Michelin (green)
    and a few specialized tires in various colors

    I going to replenish my selection of
    colored tires and brake lever extensions?
    - glad to be here.

    I know those colored tires are out there
    but where?


    I just dont give up that easily.
    who here can steer me in the right direction?
    I bought 2 sets of darwin lever extensions
    but I have still no avenues on the colored tires.

    anyone?

    ???
    any help on this much wanted info?

    I have ran colored tires since my first tailwhips on my gt performer in 1988
    so it is just a matter of my tastes

    so anyone able to help out with some actual info?
    Im sure there are actual members here who actually have knowledge
    and would enjoy giving this site some credibility as being a place where the members
    actually know there hobby.

    any one?

    ahh see colored tires are not so silly after all

    glad to see someone who has no problem enjoying what they like


    thanks
    othervoicez

    nothing like a set of skinwall tires in
    various colors to set off a 90's rig.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?
    Well...I'm a purist, so its more my problem than yours. If the bike works, then sweet.
    For me personally, Tektro brake levers and cheapo v-brakes don't get me too stoked. Quill stem set all super high (hopefully below limit line). From there non-cloth tape. New newer saddle and newer drop bars look ugly on old bikes. Again, just my opinion.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    I am certainly no expert or "vintage bike purist" (not even close), so might I inquire why you find the bike offensive short of the cheap-o made in China fluorescent green tires?
    This is the legendary MTBR 'VRC' public forum-it exists to help those who were 'in the know' back in the day learn about pedestrian MTB's from the 'new era' after 1988 or so, when the introduction of fluorescent spandex pants apparently caused semi-permanent blindness. Otherwise, they would have a dedicated, private forum to talk to each other about the bikes deemed worthy, and there is simply no fun or point in that!

    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  38. #238
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    Otherwise, they would have a dedicated, private forum to talk to each other about the bikes deemed worthy, and there is simply no fun or point in that!

    VMBEFG....Winter is waning, must get out and ride soon.......
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  39. #239
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    Yeah, I'm definitely not trying to break the bank on period correct parts, but rather putting together something that is fun to ride, inexpensive, and looks good (to me). I suppose this means it doesn't belong in the vintage forum. I do need a new stem though.

    By the way, anyone seen any Merz MTB's here on the forum?

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    By the way, anyone seen any Merz MTB's here on the forum?

    Yes.

  41. #241
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    the illegitimate love child of othervoices and momosgarage

    one helluva what if portal, my head just exploded
    looking for 20-21" P team

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    ....Winter is waning, must get out and ride soon.......

    Agreed! No snow here.....but my neck/back are a mess. *sigh*

    Merzperson, your bike belongs here, there are plenty of older mtb's floating around the forum with newer parts like yours. Don't hesitate to post, just be ready for blunt opinions-both positive and negative. I own several bikes, both 'worthy ' and not-so-worthy, an post them all up fearlessly.

    I like your ride, the 950 frame looks good with the drops and it's really clean, well done. I want to hate the tires, but it's not happening!
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  43. #243
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    Well hey - I'm here to learn, so I'll take the negative comments. I'd never claim to know more about vintage bikes than anyone else on here. I found this Trek on CL for $75 and have had a blast riding it and fixing it up (on a poor college student budget). I've always thought classic mountain bikes are some of the most beautiful bicycles that have ever been made and it's been my dream to put one together.

    If anyone has any photos of Merz MTB's I'd love to see them.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Anyone make anything close to these today? The closest I could find was the Kelly Take Off
    Kelly Bike Company

    There is an interesting lever coming out for the cyclocross gang Retroshift.
    Thread:
    https://forums.roadbikereview.com/co...ft-264420.html

    Website:
    retroshift | Mud Proof Shifting. Designed by Goats!

    Youtube video, watch it. The video explains it well.
    Retroshift's Channel - YouTube



    Sent them an email regarding a v-brake set (disc brakes) and they said early spring is the planned time.
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  45. #245
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    I don't get the fuss about whether a certian bike is worthy or not worthy. He's got a mountain bike with drop bars in "The single consolidated official drop bar thread". He's out riding a bike that he built himself and he's having a good time. If he builds a bike to his liking because that is what he wants then that's great. I give him props. I'd run lime green tires in a heartbeat also.


    Keeping on topic..Here is an updated picture of my bike. Since last time it was posted it has gotten new tires (I really miss the gum walls...) and tubes, a new saddle and pedals. Now the bike may seem silly to you, but I love this bike. I've got less than $50 bucks in the entire build and so far this year I've ridden it much more than my other bikes that have cost much more.




    I will get some better pictures, a cellphone pic on a sunny day is horrible

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I don't get the fuss about whether a certian bike is worthy or not worthy. He's got a mountain bike with drop bars in "The single consolidated official drop bar thread". He's out riding a bike that he built himself and he's having a good time. If he builds a bike to his liking because that is what he wants then that's great. I give him props. I'd run lime green tires in a heartbeat also.
    Most people are very simple minded. They want to be like everybody else and want everybody else to be like them. When someone steps across the line their mob mentality kicks in and they go into automatic rejection without really analyzing where their ill-founded thoughts come from.

  47. #247
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    Darn,
    I was just having fun because the green tires reminded me of Othervoicez. Not sure how that was complaining, but lets be honest, those are the brightest tires to appear in VRC for quite some time.

    As far as the build goes on the TREK; The drops to saddle ratio appears to be huge and I don't know if this would be conductive towards a comfortable long ride. I believe there is a lot of confusion about what the vintage drop bar mountain bike was trying to accomplish, and several builds here are put together with the emphasis on riding the hoods not the drops. This is fine if that is what you are trying to accomplish, but it is not in the spirit of the vintage mountainbike drop bar rides which were designed to ride mainly with the hands in the drops.

    Vintage drop bar mountainbikes were designed to ride the drops for several reasons including an ergonomic correct hand position, and using the bend of the bars as a source of suspension.

    I am now ready to be blasted for stating my opinion.....flame on.....

    Ride what you brought and ride hard,
    Last edited by tductape; 02-08-2012 at 08:48 AM.
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  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    Darn,
    I was just having fun because the green tires reminded me of Othervoicez. Not sure how that was complaining, but lets be honest, those are the brightest tires to appear in VRC for quite some time.

    As far as the build goes on the TREK; The drops to saddle ratio appears to be huge and I don't know if this would be conductive towards a comfortable long ride. I believe there is a lot of confusion about what the vintage drop bar mountain bike was trying to accomplish, and several builds here are put together with the emphasis on riding the hoods not the drops. This is fine if that is what you are trying to accomplish, but it is not in the spirit of the vintage mountainbike drop bar rides which were designed to ride mainly with the hands in the drops.

    Vintage drop bar mountainbikes were designed to ride the drops for several reasons including hand position and using the bend of the bars as a source of suspension.

    I am now ready to be blasted for stating my opinion.....flame on.....

    Ride what you brought and ride hard,
    That's just good, constructive critique. What he's saying, @merzperson, is that you'd probably be more comfortable on a stem that is much shorter taller. (look for a kalloy, if you don't want to spend a bunch of money) Unlike a road bike, you should ride in the hooks 100% of the time, and your grip area wants to be in roughly the same position, relative to the saddle, as it would have been if you were using a typical flat bar and that 140mm or 150mm stem.

    I never read the "hello, my name is Othervoicez" thread, or I might have laughed.
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  49. #249
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    The saddle to bar drop doesn't look all that bad for his height, but the reach does look fairly long. Remember taller guys can get away with more of a difference between bar and saddle height because their longer arms make up the difference. In the end, it's about the angle of your back, not a set in stone bar to seat ratio, because everybody's got dif bodily proportions.

    Heck, look at the king/originator/founder of off road drop bars (Charlie Cunningham) and his bike has a 2-3" (maybe more as I'm going off memory) difference between bar and saddle height.

    And the height of the bars isn't necessarily a comfort thing (people do the RAAM with low bars), it's more to do with weight distribution for riding in the dirt and technical terrain vs the road which doesn't ever need much rearward body English.
    Last edited by Fillet-brazed; 02-08-2012 at 09:42 AM.

  50. #250
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    saddle to bar drop doesn't look all that bad for his height

    Ok probably just the angle of the photo and a strong back. FWIW here is a pic of mine 6' 3" , 48 YO and slacking in the yoga classes. I think I squatted down a little more when I took the pic.




    the reach does look fairly long

    I Agree
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  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    saddle to bar drop doesn't look all that bad for his height

    Ok probably just the angle of the photo and a strong back. FWIW here is a pic of mine 6' 3" , 48 YO and slacking in the yoga classes. I think I squatted down a little more when I took the pic.

    I Agree
    that's a pretty bike.

    I know of some guys that ride in the midwest on dirt drops with a standard mtb stem (you know who you are) and it's fine. I'm guessing the trails are flatter/less technical there, not requiring excessive body weight shifts to the rear.

    Whatever works for your body and terrain I guess.

  52. #252
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    This setup is good for riding on the hoods on dirt roads, but not good in the drops on technical stuff.

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-salsadd1.jpg

    This setup has proven to be good for riding in the drops all day long.

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-img_5945.jpg

    A little more height on the Ham and less reach made all the difference.
    Last edited by DoubleCentury; 02-08-2012 at 12:08 PM.

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    You can do better.


    While we're at it....I find that Trek offensive.
    It's a terrible thing , a $50.00 dollar bike that rides better than your $500.00 bike.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Smedley View Post
    It's a terrible thing , a $50.00 dollar bike that rides better than your $500.00 bike.
    Yeah, it's just not right that someone with virtually no knowledge of boutique bike brands and vintage components, who doesn't spend endless hours scouring Ebay and Craigslist for the rare finds, can put together a bike that provides pretty much the same ride experience.
    Warning: may contain sarcasm and/or crap made up in an attempt to feel important.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailville View Post
    who doesn't spend endless hours scouring Ebay and Craigslist for the rare finds
    Is this what collecting is now? Ebay and Craigslist?

    I spent part of this morning communicating with a friend who I met here on VRC and have shared a few emails and phone conversations with over the years. I appreciate the heck out of his bike passion, opinions and daydream about having a collection that contains a few bikes as nice as his someday.

    We have traded parts back and forth before. No ebay, Clist, cloak and daggers involved, just the same passion for nice old bike stuff.

    I came back from Vaca. on Monday to another email from a different friend who wanted to touch base and share some pictures of his latest bike find. Again, just a passion for old bikes.....
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  56. #256
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    Re: my bar to saddle ratio. Part of this is that my stem doesn't go any higher (I have it just above the max height line - probably shouldn't ride it like that) and I'm not having much luck finding a suitable high-rise stem with comparable reach. I'm 6'5" and all torso. Mostly importantly, though, my background is in road racing where there's easily a foot of drop from the saddle to the bars. I ride my Trek 950 in the drops 90% of the time on the roads, and 100% on the trails.

    Anybody have a recommendation for a 1" stem with decent rise and reach? Preferably of the inexpensive variety?

  57. #257
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    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    Otherwise, they would have a dedicated, private forum to talk to each other about the bikes deemed worthy, and there is simply no fun or point in that!
    I thought we had that at one time. There was a lot of flak on it if I remember.
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  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Smedley View Post
    It's a terrible thing , a $50.00 dollar bike that rides better than your $500.00 bike.
    I'm embarrassed to say I don't have a $500 bike.
    -eric-

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  60. #260
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    That's nothing to be embarrassed about.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  61. #261
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    Destined to be a "classic"

    retroshift | Mud Proof Shifting. Designed by Goats!

    From the cyclcross forum.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-retroshift.jpg  


  62. #262
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    Pricey!
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  63. #263
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    Oof---! Yeah, I didn't notice the price the first time I looked. $120 for funky brake levers! (and that's not including the shifters....)
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  64. #264
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    can't shift from the drops.
    need to continuously change hand positioning (loosing the grip on handlebar)
    can't brake while shifting
    expensive

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    Nice little vid at the bottom about taping handlebars. I've always been fine with a dab of glue at the very end so the tape doesn't unravel but the twine idea is old school slick. Probably came from the days before there was any adhesive on the cloth.

    Speaking of cloth. It's getting pretty hard to find cloth tape any more. Guys at the LBS didn't even know what I was talking about. I went ahead a bought a whole box of blue because I needed some but now all I have is blue. Not that I need it all the time but does anyone have a good source for cloth tape?

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Nice little vid at the bottom about taping handlebars. I've always been fine with a dab of glue at the very end so the tape doesn't unravel but the twine idea is old school slick. Probably came from the days before there was any adhesive on the cloth.

    Speaking of cloth. It's getting pretty hard to find cloth tape any more. Guys at the LBS didn't even know what I was talking about. I went ahead a bought a whole box of blue because I needed some but now all I have is blue. Not that I need it all the time but does anyone have a good source for cloth tape?
    Newbaums Bar Tape

  67. #267
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    all I have is blue

    My box is white.....
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by LNBright View Post
    I just redid the bars on my Salsa with that stuff. I liked it.
    -eric-

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  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by LNBright View Post
    Nice lead. If you need more color choice than that you have a problem

    Thanks

  70. #270
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    Here is another brand. Cloth Bar Tape

    And an interesting article. The Velo ORANGE Blog: Shellac and Bar Tape, a Guide

  71. #271
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  72. #272
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    Newbaums is good quality tape. Plush and feels real nice.

    I recently tried another brand of cloth tape (rather not name names) that was thinner and more anemic. It curled up slightly on the edges when wrapped tightly.

    Newbaum's is the way to go. The dark eggplant color is awesome where you might otherwise use black.

  73. #273
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    I've never cut the tape in half underneath the brake lever as done in that Riv video. Are people here commonly doing that?

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleCentury View Post
    I've never cut the tape in half underneath the brake lever as done in that Riv video. Are people here commonly doing that?
    No. I've gone both ways, starting at the stem or the end of the bar but I always do it with one continuous length.

    When I stop at the bar end I tuck the tape in and insert the plug or Bar Con and when I stop at the stem I wrap electrical tape around the end or put a dab of glue on a tapered end to hold it in place.

    But it did give me the idea of starting both ways, cutting and tucking the ends under the brake hood as an alternate. I think I'll try this next time as it might be the best. No loose ends to deal with.

  75. #275
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    that is the Alex Singer method. It works very well.

  76. #276
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    I wanted to get some feedback on the bar position before I send the stem design to Joel at Clockwork for my new 1" LD stem. This is my first drop bar bike. Here is what the bike looks like now with a mock up adjustable stem. I am planning on have it built about 3/4"-1" lower than it is shown here. It is as low as it will go but feels pretty good. I'm fat, old and broken so it will not be doing anything very technical. Fire roads and easy single track.

    The stem will end up 6.8" tall with a 2.9" reach.

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-merlin-drops-1.jpg

  77. #277
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    If this can help.... The top should be 1/2 3/4 inch lower than original



  78. #278
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    Nice work Machianera, I am going to go with 1/2" lower than the current mockup.
    Thanks!

  79. #279
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    If that 1/2" gets the tops of the bars about level with the saddle and you feel comfortable on it (especially in the drops), then I think you should be good.

    Great build on that Merlin too, RLD (reproduction limp dick) should round out the package nicely. Let me know if you don't want that pesky rear brake.
    -eric-

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  80. #280
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    Thanks Eric; Yeah that pesky rear brake is what I did this entire build around (very long ($) story to get the brake). Saw the merlin on Ebay and noticed it had a ubrake so I went for it rather than re-boss my Ibis.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfoverhill View Post
    Thanks Eric; Yeah that pesky rear brake is what I did this entire build around (very long ($) story to get the brake). Saw the merlin on Ebay and noticed it had a ubrake so I went for it rather than re-boss my Ibis.
    i would significantly lower the brake levers on that hbar.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfoverhill View Post
    Thanks Eric; Yeah that pesky rear brake is what I did this entire build around (very long ($) story to get the brake). Saw the merlin on Ebay and noticed it had a ubrake so I went for it rather than re-boss my Ibis.
    Haha, there have been bikes built around less significant parts. It ultimately would have been just as expensive to re-boss and re-paint your Ibis...except now you have two bikes!

    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    i would significantly lower the brake levers on that hbar.
    Agreed.
    -eric-

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  83. #283
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    Do you think that RockShox fork the first edition of their production forks? Looks just like the one I have from a 94 Specialized except gold instead of silver. I don't remember anything prior.

    Decided to answer my own question. Here is the scoop.

    Rock Shox Museum

  84. #284
    more beers, less gears
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    first proper warm day around here. time to roll out on the good stuff.




  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by rigidftw View Post
    first proper warm day around here. time to roll out on the good stuff.
    Nice!

    I had mine out the other day too.

    -eric-

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  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    Nice!

    I had mine out the other day too.

    That's my favourite from all your bikes. what brake levers are those?
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  87. #287
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    looks like dura ace, bl-7402.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    That's my favourite from all your bikes. what brake levers are those?
    Thanks, its one of my faves too. A couple dozen miles and almost 4k footies and comfy all the way though.

    Quote Originally Posted by rigidftw View Post
    looks like dura ace, bl-7402.

    ^^^ This. ^^^
    -eric-

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  89. #289
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    Visual comparison of Nitto Dirt Drop stem and Salsa P10:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-img_6195.jpg  

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-img_6193.jpg  


  90. #290
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    Questionable pictures

  91. #291
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    Lately, I have been riding more, wrenching less, and practicing N-3+1. Here is +1.

    I have been intrigued by some of the new "Gravel Grinders" on the market, particularly the Salsa Ti Vaya. So, before I dropped serious cash on the Vaya, I wanted to see what I could come up with. Besides, it's more fun that way and keeps me from engaging in antisocial behavior.

    So, I began searching for just the right Ti MTB frame. For a drop bar setup, it needed to be a fairly large, older frame (shorter TT) built for a rigid fork (more HT). This really put me in the late 80's and early 90's (C&V).

    I finally found the right frame -- a 1990 Russian frame manufactured for a Dutch bike company. The very kind and knowledgeable Dutch seller described the heritage to me as follows:

    Many thanks for your shown interest ! A Dutchman ( Gijs van Tuyl) took up the idea to go east and have frames built from Russian army spec titanium. The early frames were also built at army facilities , I think this was near Novigrod. Later van Tuyl got EU money to start also other eatern Europe production facilities. Comparing the frame with other brands is difficult , I tried to make the description in the auction as honest and detailed as possible . In short: well built (good proportions , well welded) with many integrated details , the shaping of the tubes could have been better . The bike you built with this frame will be a good versitale ride.

    The frame arrived last week and I just finished the build. The components are a combination of old and new that I like and had around. The design is really function driven. My most specific design detail was to stick with the threaded fork so I could use a tall (VO) stem adapter with threadless stems. The combination of several inches of useful stem plus a choice of threadless stems of different lengths and angles gives me a great deal of fit flexibility for different conditions.

    I am also considering whether it would be possible to convert the bike to 700 wheels so I could pool different wheel/tire/cassette combinations with my cyclocross bike.

    Does anyone make long reach cantis that would work for the conversion or how about V-brakes.

    At any rate, it's hit 60 degrees here and I'm out the door to grind.

    Have a great weekend.

    RFC




















  92. #292
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    Neat project! Longer (bigger wheel) reach with v's can be had with the BMX version of Paul's Motolite.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  93. #293
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    i don't think 28" wheels will work in that frame/fork.

  94. #294
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    You can usually put 700c wheels with narrowish road cross tires in a 26" frame/fork depending on how much clearance you have. For brakes, these adapters should work for relocating the canti posts. Mavic also makes something similar.

    Xtracycle 26" to 700c Brake Post Conversion Adapter | | Bike Trailer Shop
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  95. #295
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    Diamond Back Axis Pro 1992 commuter

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Steel View Post
    Visual comparison of Nitto Dirt Drop stem and Salsa P10:
    Thanks for sharing! I'll probably get a 10cm DD for my next projekt.
    Just like to ad that the Nitto Technomic Standard may not look right but work pretty well. Here fitted with a 1 1/8 shim on a parts bin commuter I cobbled together. Thought the 130mm version would be to long but gave it a try. Tuned out to be spot on as the bars move backwards the higher they sit. Also fitted a 46cm Salsa Bell Lap donated by a friend, Dura-Ace SL-7700 9sp shifters, Tektro levers and some '89 Deore II BR-MT62 cantis. With some good 'ol ceramic 217 rims and XTR ceramic pads braking is on par with most mech disc's.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-dsc_0036-2-.jpg  

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-drops-dsc_0041-2-s.jpg  

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-drops-dsc_0051-2-s.jpg  

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-dsc_0062-2-.jpg  

    Last edited by fenderbender; 03-15-2012 at 12:31 PM.
    Marriage is a wonderful invention, but then again so is the puncture repair kit...

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by fenderbender View Post
    ....some '89 Deore II BR-MT62 cantis.....
    Wicked cool cable hanger!

    Here's my drop bar beast. Not VRC but it has quite a few VRC parts.

    In the wild:

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-firefly.jpg

    Out of the wild:

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-firefly2.jpg

  97. #297
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    Thanks, about the only cool thing on that bike! ; )
    Love your "supermotard-style" build and the use of thumbies!
    I recently sold my Cooks that I got in '94 for a Litespeed Obed build. Damn, they sure have a wide q-factor! That cable hanger come off that same same bike. Think I still have the Campa OR Record cantis and Titec 118 bar some were.
    I'll probably give that thumbie shifters trick a try on my next Miyata parts bin tourer build. Could use the Suntour bar con shifters I had planed to use on a Bridgestone RB-T instead.
    Just noticed Paul Components have some new thumbie mounts! Also spent some time last night flicking through the pics of these gorgeous classic dirt drop mtb's!
    Edit: Aha, thought I'd seen your Firefly some where before! Hope you don't mind cuz it's a beautie!
    Last edited by fenderbender; 03-15-2012 at 10:51 AM.
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  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by fenderbender View Post
    Just noticed Paul Components have some new thumbie mounts!
    Thanks for the compliments!

    By the way, the thumbies aren't new rather just the current version upside down. Clever installation indeed!

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by LNBright View Post
    WOW, those are some really bright colors perfect for a Harlequin tape job.





    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by misterdangerpants View Post
    Thanks for the compliments!
    Another good looking build for you, but man that thing has pain written all over it after about a mile. At least for us not used to advanced road bike posture.

  101. #301
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    Not mine but I saw it for sale on ebay.

    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  102. #302
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    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  103. #303
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    Gnurley!
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
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  104. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfoverhill View Post
    I wanted to get some feedback on the bar position before I send the stem design to Joel at Clockwork for my new 1" LD stem. This is my first drop bar bike. Here is what the bike looks like now with a mock up adjustable stem. I am planning on have it built about 3/4"-1" lower than it is shown here. It is as low as it will go but feels pretty good. I'm fat, old and broken so it will not be doing anything very technical. Fire roads and easy single track.

    The stem will end up 6.8" tall with a 2.9" reach.
    How is this dirt drop Merlin coming along? Did you receive your RLD stem yet? I'm considering a similar "Merlingham" with a stem from Clockwork, but I'm not exactly certain of proper stem dimensions.

  105. #305
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    I've been riding dirt drops for the last few years on my commuter mountain bike, but I quickly found that I really liked interrupter levers. For quite some time I used cantilevers, but they drove me nuts (adjustability, braking power). When I switched to xt v-brakes I used travel agents, but those kind of drove me nuts as well (added a ton of cable friction, and always felt super spongy).

    The only reason I didn't switch to long pull drop levers was that I found myself on the interrupters 75% of the time. Finally, I found these guys:

    http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl41.htm

    They work amazingly well. I'd recommend them to anyone who is looking to use linear brakes on a drop bar bike.

  106. #306
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    I have a second build for this summer in addition to the Cannondale project:





    Not sure if I am going to do a single speed drop bar build or with bar end shifters... hmm...
    No points to garage queens!

    "Mum it's not a bike - it's a Yeti" (my daughter explaining things)

  107. #307
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    Road bikes and road bike parts are a bit foreign to me, but I'm venturing into the off road dirtdrop area and was wondering what these little clamp thingees are. Circled in red here:



    Are they available other than with the original WTB shifter mounts?

    BTW pic is courtesy of BMC Mike

  108. #308
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    To index set the position of the sifter mount upwards or downwards I'll guess.
    No points to garage queens!

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  109. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by digilux View Post
    To index set the position of the sifter mount upwards or downwards I'll guess.
    Yes, I understand that it is a way to adjust the angle of the shifter mount with respect to the bars. What a meant was what are the clamps called? and are they used for other road bike applications? and what should I Google for to find them? Or are they a WTB-only item and I'm screwed and will have to make them from scratch?

    cheers

  110. #310
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    It's an aftermarket item, suntour had an complete touring drop bar shifter system with a dual shifter hande so you could shif both on top position on the bars but also in the drop

    Cheers :-)
    No points to garage queens!

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  111. #311
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    That part is the base for early Suntour thumbies. It's the black part attached to that, that you're not going to be able to find.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  112. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by classen View Post
    Yes, I understand that it is a way to adjust the angle of the shifter mount with respect to the bars. What a meant was what are the clamps called? and are they used for other road bike applications? and what should I Google for to find them? Or are they a WTB-only item and I'm screwed and will have to make them from scratch?

    cheers
    In addition to what Muddybuddy said, the Suntour XC/Power thumbie bases are just a bit too small to clamp on some road bars (at least on my RM-2's, maybe others are smaller diameter?), and without the WTB mount the shifters are not in an ideal location. I ended up drilling and tapping my levers and direct-mounted the shifters to them-it works but I have some ergonomic issues to sort out, in the middle gears the shift levers are an inch too close to the bars and interfere with your hands in the drops.


    As a side note, this project is now almost complete, just a couple details left and the aforementioned shifter placement. It's more fun to ride than I expected, and I was surprised how natural the bars felt on a tight wooded trail.

    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogun700 View Post
    In addition to what Muddybuddy said, the Suntour XC/Power thumbie bases are just a bit too small to clamp on some road bars (at least on my RM-2's, maybe others are smaller diameter?), and without the WTB mount the shifters are not in an ideal location. I ended up drilling and tapping my levers and direct-mounted the shifters to them-it works but I have some ergonomic issues to sort out, in the middle gears the shift levers are an inch too close to the bars and interfere with your hands in the drops.


    As a side note, this project is now almost complete, just a couple details left and the aforementioned shifter placement. It's more fun to ride than I expected, and I was surprised how natural the bars felt on a tight wooded trail.

    Nice project. Question how do you find the LePre derailleurs is to adjust and use. I have a couple of those but did not find them easy to adjust or to use. But progressive design and funny evolutionary dead end with regard to derailleur design.
    No points to garage queens!

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  114. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by digilux View Post
    Nice project. Question how do you find the LePre derailleurs is to adjust and use. I have a couple of those but did not find them easy to adjust or to use. But progressive design and funny evolutionary dead end with regard to derailleur design.

    It's hard to tell just yet-I wasn't impressed on my ride yesterday, but I realized I didn't prewind the cage spring enough when I assembled it, so there was not adequate chain tension. The RD is an XC model, I added the tri-pulley cage from a NOS Suntour ARX unit, so the spring itself should be fine. I'd read that the 3-pulley was commonly sold as an aftermarket 'upgrade'....gotta love those dead end, questionable upgrade parts. I mounted it partially for the novelty, the bike is such an oddball I thought it deserved something similarly 'out there'.

    I'll report back after I set the tension properly give it another try. You said you've used these before, do you have any idea if the chain length is set by the standard method? I'd love to see the instructions for this pulley setup.
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  115. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogun700 View Post
    It's hard to tell just yet-I wasn't impressed on my ride yesterday, but I realized I didn't prewind the cage spring enough when I assembled it, so there was not adequate chain tension. The RD is an XC model, I added the tri-pulley cage from a NOS Suntour ARX unit, so the spring itself should be fine. I'd read that the 3-pulley was commonly sold as an aftermarket 'upgrade'....gotta love those dead end, questionable upgrade parts. I mounted it partially for the novelty, the bike is such an oddball I thought it deserved something similarly 'out there'.

    I'll report back after I set the tension properly give it another try. You said you've used these before, do you have any idea if the chain length is set by the standard method? I'd love to see the instructions for this pulley setup.
    Hi regarding chain length I have read that the soul idea behind this dead end oddball was that you could have the same high range gearing but shorter chain than similar systems. Cant remember comparing chain lengths.

    Regarding the performance and adjustments I found the LePree dificoult to engange correctly and keep position on repeating shifting up and down (stress test shifting). I love the design due to the three pulleys and will at some later stage give them another try.

    Like to learn about your experience!
    No points to garage queens!

    "Mum it's not a bike - it's a Yeti" (my daughter explaining things)

  116. #316
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    Thanks for the info-interesting about a shorter chain, when I had it set up that way it would pull the forward pulley up off the chain when running middle front/large back cog and I wasn't sure if all 3 pulleys are supposed to be on the chain at all times. I will continue to experiment and let you know.
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  117. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogun700 View Post
    Thanks for the info-interesting about a shorter chain, when I had it set up that way it would pull the forward pulley up off the chain when running middle front/large back cog and I wasn't sure if all 3 pulleys are supposed to be on the chain at all times. I will continue to experiment and let you know.

    Maby Jeff @ FirstFlight/MOMBAT have more spesific info and maby old documentation?
    No points to garage queens!

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  118. #318
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    maybe a tad short for digilux, but fits me well




  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by rigidftw View Post
    maybe a tad short for digilux, but fits me well



    Agh... thats What I call a sissy stem

    Very nice bike though is it a bit to small to you ref the tall seat post? Looks like you are a 34" inseam like me
    No points to garage queens!

    "Mum it's not a bike - it's a Yeti" (my daughter explaining things)

  120. #320
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    33" inseam it is. and the bike has just the right size for me.
    seat post isn't tall at all, it's the front that's stubby and low. but i like it. looks more aggressive, makes for quite quick steering and it feels awfully fast

  121. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy View Post
    That part is the base for early Suntour thumbies. It's the black part attached to that, that you're not going to be able to find.
    Which is why I'm working on getting a bunch made . Steve Potts gave me his approval to copy the WTB design (since he had no intention of making more himself) so I'm working with a CNC shop to get the reproductions made. I don't know how much they are going to cost yet, but if anyone is interested in a set feel free to PM me so I can start a waiting list.

    (I'll be happy to buy a classified ad as soon as I have the price figured out.)

  122. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by rigidftw View Post
    maybe a tad short for digilux, but fits me well
    Nice bike

  123. #323
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    I've posted this bike in the past, but it's been a while. This past weekend I two long rides: Saturday we biked to a small town that's 47 miles (by dirt road and trail) from home and camped that night, Sunday we rode home. In total we covered just over 94 miles and and 13,200 feet of elevation gain in two days. The dirt drops and bike did great!

    <img src="https://www.eandsweb.com/bikes/pics/phoenix/20120616152512.jpg" width="768" height="1024">

    <img src="https://www.eandsweb.com/bikes/pics/phoenix/20120616152457.jpg" height="768" width="1024">
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  124. #324
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    Very nice EL. Did the stem give you enough rise? I really like that build of yours. Did you have to haul a backpack too? Very studly!

    I love everybody's phoenixes. Such a workingman's bike.

  125. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    Very nice EL. Did the stem give you enough rise? I really like that build of yours. Did you have to haul a backpack too? Very studly!

    I love everybody's phoenixes. Such a workingman's bike.
    Yep, the handlebars are plenty high, and plenty comfortable.

    The ride organizers have a trailer (pulled by a truck) that carries all of the camping gear to the campsite. There's also lunch provided along the way, two rest stops each day (although if you go off-route like we did you tend to miss the rest stops), and dinner and showers on Saturday night. All that I had to carry was water, camera, rain gear (which wasn't needed), and a little bit of extra food. A perfect way to spend the weekend.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  126. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    I've posted this bike in the past, but it's been a while.
    16.5" or 18" frame? It looks like a 16.5 (which would make in >='97 I think, but maybe re-sprayed with the earlier decals?

  127. #327
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    Sounds awesome---have any pics of the ride?
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  128. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by halaburt View Post
    16.5" or 18" frame? It looks like a 16.5 (which would make in >='97 I think, but maybe re-sprayed with the earlier decals?
    Yep, it's a 16.5" and one of the last Phoenix frames made. It had a crack at the bottom of the seat tube slot. Steve repaired the crack (which made a repaint necessary) and built the Type-II for me a few years back. When I had it painted I picked the earlier decals as I prefer them.

    Quote Originally Posted by yo-Nate-y View Post
    Sounds awesome---have any pics of the ride?
    I took several GoPro videos along the way, but I've not had a chance to do anything with them yet. I've taken still pictures in the past, but it's hard to capture the beauty of the mountains, trails, flowers, and bikes in a still shot.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    but it's hard to capture the beauty of the mountains, trails, flowers, and bikes in a still shot.
    You need me!
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  130. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    Yep, the handlebars are plenty high, and plenty comfortable.
    Going back to the debate on how high drop bars should (or should not) be... Those of us with long arms and legs can run the bars below our saddle height and still have an upright ride. Here's me (looking goofy) at the start of the ride.

    <img src="https://www.eandsweb.com/bikes/pics/phoenix/tour_start.jpg" height="683" width="1024">
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  131. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    Going back to the debate on how high drop bars should (or should not) be... Those of us with long arms and legs can run the bars below our saddle height and still have an upright ride. Here's me (looking goofy) at the start of the ride.

    <img src="https://www.eandsweb.com/bikes/pics/phoenix/tour_start.jpg" height="683" width="1024">
    oh yeah. that looks perfect!

  132. #332
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  133. #333
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    Long Hard Rides are Good



    15th Annual Boise to Idaho City MTB Tour
    Web site: www.mtbikeidaho.com

  134. #334
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    A little OT, but at least the name and a couple of the parts are vintage:




  135. #335
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    BLING!!!
    How're are you liking the ride?
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
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  136. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Anomie- View Post
    A little OT, but at least the name and a couple of the parts are vintage:



    Nice bike vintage or not. I see you have the ebay stem. It's the nicest looking threadless riser stem out there. How did you mount the shifters?
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    BLING!!!
    How're are you liking the ride?
    I like it, this is the first 29er I've spent any time on so I'm still getting used to it, but so far, so good. These Breezer frames have a slightly steeper geometry than most, so they handle quicker and are more maneuverable a slow speeds in technical terrain, more like a Bontrager than a Ritchey (to use a vintage analogy).

    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Nice bike vintage or not. I see you have the ebay stem. It's the nicest looking threadless riser stem out there. How did you mount the shifters?
    I had to make my own clamps. The carbon ones that come with the shifters are bolted on, so I just carved some new ones with larger diameter holes out of a block of 6061. They aren't perfect, but they work and you can barely see them under the bar tape:

    Started with this:



    Finished with these:


  138. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    I've posted this bike in the past, but it's been a while. This past weekend I two long rides: Saturday we biked to a small town that's 47 miles (by dirt road and trail) from home and camped that night, Sunday we rode home. In total we covered just over 94 miles and and 13,200 feet of elevation gain in two days. The dirt drops and bike did great!
    Sounds like a cool ride, EL. Oh, and a nice looking bike!

  139. #339
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  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Anomie- View Post
    I like it, this is the first 29er I've spent any time on so I'm still getting used to it, but so far, so good. These Breezer frames have a slightly steeper geometry than most, so they handle quicker and are more maneuverable a slow speeds in technical terrain, more like a Bontrager than a Ritchey (to use a vintage analogy).



    I had to make my own clamps. The carbon ones that come with the shifters are bolted on, so I just carved some new ones with larger diameter holes out of a block of 6061. They aren't perfect, but they work and you can barely see them under the bar tape:

    Started with this:



    Finished with these:

    WOW, you are my hero. You need to start a separate thread describing the whole process. That looks great.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  141. #341
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    This is my M900 drop-bar with the rare all aluminium fork. This 11/8 peperonies with alu stedertube was factory recalled - but I did not turn it in ;-)



    Frame & fork have been rebuild with different parts several times and stolen twice. Currently build up for a +3000km bicycle tour next year.
    No points to garage queens!

    "Mum it's not a bike - it's a Yeti" (my daughter explaining things)

  142. #342
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    I have a question about sizing.
    If you are looking for a MTB to convert to drop bars do you:

    Go with your standard size, Or do you go one size bigger or smaller.

  143. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty Tiger View Post
    I have a question about sizing.
    If you are looking for a MTB to convert to drop bars do you:

    Go with your standard size, Or do you go one size bigger or smaller.
    you want your bar as high or higher than saddle. So, normal to bigger.

  144. #344
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    I'm having trouble finding a 1 1/4 quill stem that would work well with dirt drops. Any suggestions appreciated!

  145. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sizzler View Post
    I'm having trouble finding a 1 1/4 quill stem that would work well with dirt drops. Any suggestions appreciated!
    It might not be pretty but what about a threadless adaptor? Some are really tall. It's the only thing I can think of. Good luck
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  146. #346
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    Let's see if this works....

    Here is a quick iphone photo. I just threw on some Kendas for now...

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie.jpg

    (yes those are Epos speakers in the background)
    Last edited by Buddysnack; 01-31-2013 at 10:29 PM.

  147. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    WOW, you are my hero. You need to start a separate thread describing the whole process. That looks great.
    I apologize for taking so long to reply, I only check in here every few weeks and didn't see your comment until now. The process was pretty simple, just a few hours of filing and sanding, and lots of eyeballing it. Here's a brief "photo essay" to add to the shots above:







  148. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buddysnack View Post
    Let's see if this works....

    Here is a quick iphone photo. I just threw on some Kendas for now...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Brodie.jpg 
Views:	558 
Size:	141.2 KB 
ID:	767132

    (yes those are Epos speakers in the background)
    Nice, like that fork too. To get the photo to show up in the post, replace url and /url with "" (no quotes).

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Anomie- View Post
    Nice, like that fork too. To get the photo to show up in the post, replace url and /url with "" (no quotes).
    I guess I am not the first one to struggle with this. I am not getting any url text in my photo. From the album page there are 2 links:
    -picture URL
    -bb code

    Do I use either of those?

    Tomorrow...

  150. #350
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    No, ignore those, just copy the URL of the photo, paste it into your message, and put "" after the URL (like I said above, no quotes).

  151. #351
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    Not a bad entrance Buddy.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
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  152. #352
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    He's not your buddy, guy!

    (sorry, Canadian joke) NICE BRODIE! More pics please.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

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  154. #354
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    OK, so I did a quick photo shoot today, although I plan to clean it up, put on a new chain/tires and do a proper photo session.
    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-1.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-2.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-3.jpg

  155. #355
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-4.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-5.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-6.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-7.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-8.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-9.jpg

  156. #356
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-10.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-11.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-12.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-13.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-14.jpg

  157. #357
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-15.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-16.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-17.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-18.jpgThe single consolidated official drop bar thread-brodie-first-photoshoot-19.jpg

  158. #358
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    very nice pictures, Colin and a very very very beautiful bike. That's a lot of Neopolitan pizza there. Who did you say made the forks?

  159. #359
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    Quick specs:
    -1988 Brodie Romax #384 (filet brazed by Paul Brodie himself). It was originally owned by Barry from Spinning Wheels. It was originally Red and Yellow (I will post a pic eventually)
    -Repainted by Tony Beek in Toronto around 1992 (full toptube length fade). Unfortunately I couldn't get original decals.
    -Ripe Pipe Filet Brazed forks and Stem. I took the bike touring so I had the braze-ons added for racks. Ripe Pipe was run by Ross Storoniak and Krys Hines. Ross was an amazing craftsman and totally self taught. Krys now owns Cafe Domestique in Dundas Ontario.
    -WTB drops, shifter mounts, brakes, hubs and headset.
    -Brodie Brake Boosters
    -Mavic MA40 rims with 14/15 butted spokes & alloy nipples.
    -American Classic water bottle cages and quick releases.
    -XT 6 speed shifters
    -XCD 6000 front derailleur
    -XT m735 rear derailleur with blue pulleys with bearings (not sure what kind)
    -Specialized 175 Cranks, with a 24 tooth Onza Stainless Steel small ring
    -Specialized Ti Bottom Bracket
    -Shimano 600 6speed cassette (14-32)
    -Shimano Grand Royal Compe brake leavers
    -Flite Saddle
    -Syncros seatpost

    I was smart enough to lend this bike to my dad, who recently got back surgery, so I got it back. Some scratches on the paint and the rear hub is loose, but overall it's in really good shape.

  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    very nice pictures, Colin and a very very very beautiful bike. That's a lot of Neopolitan pizza there. Who did you say made the forks?
    As I mentioned in my last post, the forks and stem were made by Ripe Pipe, which was a small company from Toronto Canada. They built about 25 bikes in total, each was given a name and not a number. Ross still has some of the nicest filet brazed road bikes around that he built over 20 years ago. He gave them to Tony at Beeks and said do whatever you want. The best paint jobs I have ever seen.

  161. #361
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    Hey Yo-Nate,

    I used to have a Zunow as well with a Ripe Pipe stem:

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-zunow.jpg

  162. #362
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    Your Brodie is drop dead gorgeous and my favorite Brodie so far.

  163. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    Your Brodie is drop dead gorgeous and my favorite Brodie so far.
    Thanks girlonbike! It was a labour of love 20 years ago that I just rediscovered. Looking forward to taking it for a ride.

  164. #364
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    That Zunow is fantastic. I'm always on the lookout for one in my size.

    ...to say nothing of your Brodie. Holy moly. Nice build. Super nice build. That bike is a beaut!
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  165. #365
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    That thing is fully rad.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  166. #366
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    Sorry for poluting the thread with a N0ob question.

    Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?

    I am planning on putting a On-one midge on my cx, and I have STI-shifters.
    I´ve read somewhere that it is not working so good because the shifter are “leaning outwards”?
    Last edited by Stemag; 05-30-2013 at 04:52 AM.

  167. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stemag View Post
    Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?

    I am planning on putting a On-one midge on my cx, and I have STI-shifters.
    I´ve read somewhere that it is not working so good because the shifter are “leaning outwards”?
    When dirt drops first became popular there were no STI shifters. So originally that's why barcons where used. Today barcons are still popular because (a) they're cheaper than STI levers, (b) if you crash your bike they are less likely to be damaged, and (c) they work well.

    I briefly ran STI levers on a dirt drop setup and it worked fine. The angled levers felt fine to me as well (a bit "different" on the first ride or two, but easy to adjust to). On dirt drops I rarely ride on the hoods, so their shape is much less significant than on a road bike.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  168. #368
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    Not always.



    Mountain bikes don't have down tube shifters. Outside if that, lots of options. Try your STI.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  169. #369
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    Idea!

    Ignore this comment.
    Last edited by DanielLondon; 05-30-2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Posted new thread

  170. #370
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    Prior to the introduction of specific off-road drop bars, what bars were they using? I think I remember reading somewhere that Cinelli 65s were a popular choice, but were they modified at all for off-road use?
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  171. #371
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    Yes, flared.

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-win0385p96.jpg

  172. #372
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    Drop bars especially fit single speed builds. It's just great to push them uphills in the drops. Feels like a wheel barrow.


  173. #373
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    Is your front qr open?
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  174. #374
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    AC skewer and a shrouded dropout, gotta run it forward or reversed
    looking for 20-21" P team

  175. #375
    m o t o !
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    ^
    what he says




  176. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stemag View Post
    Sorry for poluting the thread with a N0ob question.

    Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?

    I am planning on putting a On-one midge on my cx, and I have STI-shifters.
    I´ve read somewhere that it is not working so good because the shifter are “leaning outwards”?
    Here's what I did on my modern bike with drop bars. I had to make the bar clamps myself (drop bars having a larger diameter than flat bars) but other than that it was fairly easy to set up.




  177. #377
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    Wow--that is a serious shroud!
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  178. #378
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    +10 points for the use of the word, "shroud," in the VRC forum or anywhere on mtbr for that matter.

  179. #379
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Stemag View Post
    Sorry for poluting the thread with a N0ob question.

    Can someone explain to me why there always seems to be bar end shifters on dirt drop bars?

    I am planning on putting a On-one midge on my cx, and I have STI-shifters.
    I&#180;ve read somewhere that it is not working so good because the shifter are “leaning outwards”?
    First, this is the vintage bike board. Barend shifters have been around for many, many years. Road STI, not so much.

    Second, I use STI levers on Midge bars. I think they work BETTER on flared bars. Easier to reach and move the levers.
    mtbtires.com
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  180. #380
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread

    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy View Post
    Prior to the introduction of specific off-road drop bars, what bars were they using? I think I remember reading somewhere that Cinelli 65s were a popular choice, but were they modified at all for off-road use?
    I started with Cinelli Crit bars, self flared.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  181. #381
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread

    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    When dirt drops first became popular there were no STI shifters. So originally that's why barcons where used. Today barcons are still popular because (a) they're cheaper than STI levers, (b) if you crash your bike they are less likely to be damaged, and (c) they work well.

    I briefly ran STI levers on a dirt drop setup and it worked fine. The angled levers felt fine to me as well (a bit "different" on the first ride or two, but easy to adjust to). On dirt drops I rarely ride on the hoods, so their shape is much less significant than on a road bike.
    I have broken more barend shifters (2-3, snapped lever) than STI shifters (none from crash damage, 2 wore out).
    mtbtires.com
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  182. #382
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    Man this thread really gets me thinking!

  183. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Second, I use STI levers on Midge bars. I think they work BETTER on flared bars. Easier to reach and move the levers.
    Thank you.

    I have tried it now, and it works just fine. Very nice feeling, much better Control on singeltrack.

    My only problem now is (ike for everybody else Dirt drop newbis) my bar is to low.

    I put the bar on my cross, and of course that frame is to low in the front.

    So my options is: a new stem or a frame suited for dirt drop (like a Singular Gryphon maybe) ;-)

    I wonder what my wife thinks is the most budget way to go? ;-)

  184. #384
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    My Version
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-image.jpg  


  185. #385
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    Nice!

  186. #386
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    Here's my finished project

    Panasonic + Nitto DirtDrop Stem + RM-014 bar
    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-img-20130705-00529edited.jpg

  187. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by nowhere-man View Post
    Panasonic + Nitto DirtDrop Stem + RM-014 bar
    The RM-14s are really a sweet bar for dirt drop setup. I started riding them last year on my cross bike and liked them so much I replaced the WTB drops on my Salsa MTB with another pair of RM-14s. A bit less radical spread and flare than the WTBs with somewhat more usable area on the tops and ramps. Nitto is selling this bar again as RM-014s but sadly only comes in 31.8 clamp size.

    <a href="https://s339.photobucket.com/user/backer22/media/Misc/150_0839_zps5a2adb89.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n472/backer22/Misc/150_0839_zps5a2adb89.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 150_0839_zps5a2adb89.jpg"/></a>

  188. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightshade_rider View Post
    The RM-14s are really a sweet bar for dirt drop setup. I started riding them last year on my cross bike and liked them so much I replaced the WTB drops on my Salsa MTB with another pair of RM-14s. A bit less radical spread and flare than the WTBs with somewhat more usable area on the tops and ramps. Nitto is selling this bar again as RM-014s but sadly only comes in 31.8 clamp size.

    <a href="https://s339.photobucket.com/user/backer22/media/Misc/150_0839_zps5a2adb89.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n472/backer22/Misc/150_0839_zps5a2adb89.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 150_0839_zps5a2adb89.jpg"/></a>
    Now, can you send your unused WTB bar to me please?

  189. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by nowhere-man View Post
    Now, can you send your unused WTB bar to me please?
    Sure, the one from the Salsa had been cut down about 3/4" for barcons, but I have another uncut one available, 25.4 clamp diameter methinks. I can check when I get home from work.

  190. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    I use STI levers on Midge bars. I think they work BETTER on flared bars. Easier to reach and move the levers.
    A question for the expert. I'm thinking about using a set of Campy Ergo shifters on either a Midge or Salsa Woodchipper. Are the thumb shifter hard to access on them? I can see how Shimano or SRAM would work well. Thanks
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  191. #391
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    I ran the same set up for a bit using Wood Chippers and Ergo 8speed. Seeing that your hand position relative to the levers is not much different when in the hooks it felt the same to me. One negative I found was if my hands were weighted heavily it tended to want pull my thumb away from the shifter some. It just takes a bit more effort. On the hoods it's a different story entirely. Unless you have freak thumbs it's tough to reach the trigger.
    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    A question for the expert. I'm thinking about using a set of Campy Ergo shifters on either a Midge or Salsa Woodchipper. Are the thumb shifter hard to access on them? I can see how Shimano or SRAM would work well. Thanks
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

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  192. #392
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    Here is my drop bar two speed Ibis 28er.



  193. #393
    ravingbikefiend
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    Moulden Custom


    Da Pug
    I ride with 65'er...he's a mountain goat....But then again, we need to throw him in the mud and pack his pockets with lead shot before a scale will read him. - Psycho Mike

    -Environmental stickers don't mean shite when they are stuck to CARS!-

  194. #394
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    I want to add Habanero Cycles' Stem Fit Chart to this thread to archive it. It's interesting and someone may find it useful.
    stemfit.jpg
    https://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg

  195. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Anomie- View Post
    Which is why I'm working on getting a bunch made . Steve Potts gave me his approval to copy the WTB design (since he had no intention of making more himself) so I'm working with a CNC shop to get the reproductions made. I don't know how much they are going to cost yet, but if anyone is interested in a set feel free to PM me so I can start a waiting list.

    (I'll be happy to buy a classified ad as soon as I have the price figured out.)
    Any updates/progress on this? Very cool.

  196. #396
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    The single consolidated official drop bar thread

    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    A question for the expert. I'm thinking about using a set of Campy Ergo shifters on either a Midge or Salsa Woodchipper. Are the thumb shifter hard to access on them? I can see how Shimano or SRAM would work well. Thanks
    I have Sora levers (with thumb release levers) on one bike with Midge bars. Works no differently than on a road bar.
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  197. #397
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    Sixty-Fiver, nice Tri-Pulley Suntour XC RD on that Pug! I had one on my Marinoni, it worked better than I thought it would.

    Here is my winter ride, a 1988 Cannondale M700. I'm not quite final on the setup and build yet, but it's close. The combination of the high BB/steep head tube of the Cannondale BoE style frame with the drops is excellent, you can stay over the center of the bike in slippery conditions and just apply a little pressure right or left on the drops to steer. The change from flat bars on this frame was enormous, the steering was really quick before, this slows it just enough and it's now incredibly intuitive. I'm using old 7 speed RSX shifter/levers, they work well but need a rebuild to perform properly in the cold. Other than the bar setup the bike is mostly original. Even with flat bars, it's the best-fitting frame I've ridden, and has taught me a lot about how to set up my other bikes.









    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  198. #398
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    Stumpy

    My winter / rainy day rider.

    anything Steel

  199. #399
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    Hi, here is my Salsa 1989
    The stem and hte fork are repaint


    Philippe

  200. #400
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    So nice!

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