RockShox Magnesium rebuild kit- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 72 of 72
  1. #1

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8

    New question here. RockShox Magnesium rebuild kit

    Hey i just purchased a '95 Barracuda with a set of RockShox Magnesium forks on it. I'm not sure what year these forks were made (maybe in the 90's). I'm looking for a rebuild kit (seals, etc). one of the fork legs is leaving a little oil on the tube. Anyone know if the kits for these forks are still avail?

    Thnx!

  2. #2
    Certified Bike Junkie
    Reputation: muddybuddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,747
    Enduro still has the seals for the mag 21 listed on their web site.

  3. #3

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy
    Enduro still has the seals for the mag 21 listed on their web site.
    Hey thnx, i just checked and didn't see them listed. have you got a link to them?

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: logbiter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,821
    http://enduroforkseals.com/id22.html
    Mag Kit

    the hard part is finding the rubber seal where you stick the needle into, if that leaks. someone on here had a solution IIRC


  5. #5

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by logbiter
    http://enduroforkseals.com/id22.html
    Mag Kit

    the hard part is finding the rubber seal where you stick the needle into, if that leaks. someone on here had a solution IIRC
    Thnx for the link, looks like Enduro doesn't carry the dust\wiper seal, just the internal ones. i think my dust seals are in ok shape hard to tell with these things. the air valve seals seem to be fine, so far they are holding air pressure.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by logbiter
    the hard part is finding the rubber seal where you stick the needle into, if that leaks. someone on here had a solution IIRC
    I just searched but no luck in finding the thread -- any idea to the thread? I'd like to rebuild the Mag 21's as they are NOS (in box) but the air needle thing won't hold air anymore. I forgot how light these were in comparison to the shocks of today. (I'll use on a mtnbike for the street with slicks) Thanks!

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: logbiter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,821
    Quote Originally Posted by Superleggera
    I just searched but no luck in finding the thread -- any idea to the thread? I'd like to rebuild the Mag 21's as they are NOS (in box) but the air needle thing won't hold air anymore. I forgot how light these were in comparison to the shocks of today. (I'll use on a mtnbike for the street with slicks) Thanks!
    man, I can't seem to find it now either.
    Was it some sort of latex/rubber/poly-somethingorother from medical collection tubes? That's all my feeble memory comes up wiith.
    I may have it bookmarked at home, I'll check tonight.


  8. #8
    bonked
    Reputation: IF52's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,129
    Isn't richieb the one who fixes the air needle thing?

    By the way, is it really bad to use a regular air needle instead of the shock needle, and if so does anybody have shock needles?
    Quote Originally Posted by banks
    That is one big f'n dude!
    Yes I am!

  9. #9

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by IF52
    Isn't richieb the one who fixes the air needle thing?

    By the way, is it really bad to use a regular air needle instead of the shock needle, and if so does anybody have shock needles?
    I was lucky enough to get the rockshox pump thing that comes with forks from the orig owner. The needle, which i don't have with me, looked like a standard needle you'd use for basketballs, etc. if recall correctly. I have both types at home i'll compare and post up later.

    I really like these forks, they are light and smooth out the ride a little. Would be ultra cool to be able extend the life of these forks. I've done some googling for reuilds and don't find anything, hopefully someone will step forward with some info.

  10. #10
    bonked
    Reputation: IF52's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,129
    I think the rock shox needle has a hole just on the end, not two hole on the sides of the needle. Don't remember if it makes a difference. I also recall reading that the correct tools are a must for the rebuild, does this ring a bell?
    Quote Originally Posted by banks
    That is one big f'n dude!
    Yes I am!

  11. #11
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by jareti
    Hey i just purchased a '95 Barracuda with a set of RockShox Magnesium forks on it. I'm not sure what year these forks were made (maybe in the 90's). I'm looking for a rebuild kit (seals, etc). one of the fork legs is leaving a little oil on the tube. Anyone know if the kits for these forks are still avail?
    Rebuild kits have been out of production for over ten years, but they pop up on ebay every once in a while. I doubt you need new bushings, a seal kit from enduro and an overhaul and oil change should keep your fork going for a long time to come.

    Is it a Mag 20 or Mag 21? It matters -- the rebuild kits are specific to each model, but the main seals are the same.

    The special tools help for disassembly, but there are alternatives as well. I can fill you in on what needs to be done, and I'm sure Richieb can too.

    You can use a basketball needle to inflate the forks, but make sure you coat it with suspension oil every time you insert it to prolong the life of the rubber air valves.
    Last edited by Zanetti; 04-21-2008 at 04:28 PM.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    The the special tools help for disassembly, but there are alternatives as well. I can fill you in on what needs to be done, and I'm sure Richieb can too.
    Is there any PDF documents for disassembly or rebuilding? What special tools required? (note: I have a full machine shop, so nothing is impossible to make)
    me: Mark -- where: formerly Milton, WA and now Gilbert, AZ -- fun: Bikepacking and long distance touring

  13. #13
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by Superleggera
    ---I have a full machine shop, so nothing is impossible to make---
    You're golden. Most of the needed tools should be easy to manufacture. The lower/upper legs can be seperated with air pressure, so the seal puller (tool #3) isn't really needed. Two correctly sized drill bit shanks and an adjutstable wrench can be used instead of tool #4 (page 1). The seal driver (tool #2) and 1" upper leg blocks (tool #1)are very handy to have.

    Here's the .pdf of the Mag 21/10 service manual, thanks to enduro:

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/siteb...magservice.pdf

  14. #14
    Carsten
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Superleggera
    Is there any PDF documents for disassembly or rebuilding? What special tools required? (note: I have a full machine shop, so nothing is impossible to make)
    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/siteb...magservice.pdf

    Carsten

  15. #15

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    Is it a Mag 20 or Mag 21? It matters -- the rebuild kits are specific to each model, but the main seals are the same.
    how do you tell which one? mine doens't have the 21 number on it... it just says Magnesium where the one in your avatar has the 21. could mine be a 20 or 10?

  16. #16
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by jareti
    how do you tell which one? mine doens't have the 21 number on it... it just says Magnesium where the one in your avatar has the 21. could mine be a 20 or 10?
    Got any pics? It sounds like you have a Mag 20, but pictures would confirm it.

  17. #17

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    Got any pics? It sounds like you have a Mag 20, but pictures would confirm it.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    84

    .

    how bout a pic of the whole thing....love the Cudas...heres mine..

  19. #19
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by jareti
    The rounded/smoothed upper section of the lower leg and the button head screw securing the fork brace designates your fork as an early (1993) Mag 21.

    Just a "heads up" -- the upper bushing is different from the '94+ Mag forks. On your fork, the upper and lower bushings are the same size. On the 94+, the upper bushing is slightly larger than the lower bushing. Should you come across a rebuild kit, it will usually contain six bushings -- one upper set for '93 forks, and one upper set for '94+ forks, as well as one set of lower bushings.

  20. #20

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    8
    sithlord3 you have a beautiful bike there... mine was just rescued from the orig owner's storage so it's still in need of some TLC, it's a '95 A2MS.

    Zanetti thnx for the info. i ordered the internal seals from Enduro hopefully that's all i'll need along with an oil change.

  21. #21
    In FTF We Trust
    Reputation: el-cid's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,814
    My LBS has a load of Mag 21 parts, he could probably give that thing a full rebuild. If you need some help call Sven's Bicycles of Anaconda at (406)563-7988 and ask for Pete. Tell him Chad sent you.
    "I'll disintegrate over time if I expect my body to try to keep up with my mind" -BM

    Race, Rocks or Road...Just Ride

  22. #22
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    I can fix all things Mag fork related

    I have bushings, seals, caps...5 years of hoarding...it's kind of my thing

  23. #23
    bonked
    Reputation: IF52's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,129
    Can you fix the 1" threadless steerer on my Mag 21 so that it is 220mm long instead of 187mm?
    Quote Originally Posted by banks
    That is one big f'n dude!
    Yes I am!

  24. #24
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    ok...almost anything...

  25. #25
    Hillbilly Scientist
    Reputation: CoalHillsMcKracken's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    84
    I just bought a Mag 21 1" steerer on EBAY. Is it still possible to do the long travel conversion?

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    76
    oops

  27. #27
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by CoalHillsMcKracken
    I just bought a Mag 21 1" steerer on EBAY. Is it still possible to do the long travel conversion?
    Yes, but the upper and lower tubes need to come apart, and of course you'll need the long travel top out sleeves.

  28. #28
    The Crazy Cat Lady of VRC
    Reputation: eastcoaststeve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,018
    Quote Originally Posted by richieb
    I can fix all things Mag fork related

    I have bushings, seals, caps...5 years of hoarding...it's kind of my thing



    Richieb,


    can you make this one fresh again:














    BTW: Any idea what year this one is?





    Thanks,

    Steve

  29. #29
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by eastcoaststeve

    BTW: Any idea what year this one is?
    It's a Mag 20 from 1992.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    7
    Hey everyone, I hate to wake up an old thread, but this is my first post - I'm trying to breathe some life back into an old Fat Chance I have with some Rock Shox (Mag 20 or 21, not exactly sure).

    Would anyone on these forums be willing to rebuild them if I had them mailed out? I'd prefer to leave the bike in its current state, rather than adding a bunch of new components.

    Much thanks in advance!
    - Josh

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kb11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,213
    see: http://www.hippiesuspension.com/hipp...ion/index.html , they can rebuild your RockShox
    "I think it is heavy and often stupid and doesn't work as well as Shimano, but I keep using it. -- NG

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by kb11
    see: http://www.hippiesuspension.com/hipp...ion/index.html , they can rebuild your RockShox
    Thanks very much, I appreciate it!

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    126
    Hello everyone, I picked up a bike with Rock Shox Magnesium forks, Mag 20 I think. After finally finding that the air fill is the center screw on the dampening dial (three local LBS did not know this even after seeing the bike, thanks to Jesus I found this thread with the Rock Shox manuals). I'd like to know how much air to add. Air starts to escape from the shock as soon as I remove the air needle, but I've managed to set the screw under a little pressure but I can't tell how much. Not nearly as much as indicated in the Mag 21 manual. Most of the air escapes before I can set the air inlet screw. Must I set the air inlet screw faster or is there some way to actually tell how much air is in the Mag 20 shock?
    Also should I add any oil, is there any way to determine this without taking the shock apart?
    I'm feeling very tentative about riding this bike after going over the handle bars during my first test ride when the shocks bottomed out on top of the front wheel, causing the front wheel to come to a abrupt stop, . I would hate to have the air leak out during a ride and get hurt.
    I'm not sure if I have enough air and oil in the shock and certainly don't want another trip over the handle bars. Help this Noob out, and tell me what I need to know about using and maintaining.these shocks.
    After adding air the shocks SEEM ok. They do not bottom out and when I put my full weight of 220lbs. on the handle bars. I'm hopping they will not bottom out after taking a bump or a jump hard and fast. The bike has 26" x 2.2" knobby tires.
    Does anyone have a link to the Mag 20 manual?
    After thinking about the Rock Shox bottoming out on top of the tire, they appear very dangerous, if the one that I have is installed correctly. Because if the shock losses pressure the rider can be ejected from the bike, if the fork or fork brace bottoms out on the tire, resulting in serious injury or death. Please see photos.


    Thanks in advance for your help,
    Uni
    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3537419806/" title="Rock Shox Mag 20 by Uniconz, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2441/3537419806_5bc0c65bd4_o.jpg" width="864" height="1152" alt="Rock Shox Mag 20" /></a>

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3536623357/" title="Front View by Uniconz, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3628/3536623357_b44f2ce90f_o.jpg" width="1152" height="864" alt="Front View" /></a>

  34. #34

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3

    Can you help I.D. mine?

    I guess I need to direct my question to (Zanatti), or any one that can help,
    What model are the attached shox's? Mag 10, Mag20, Mag 21?????
    and is there some component missing in the top of the tube?, The hole is threaded but nothing under the dustcap.


  35. #35
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    Mag 10 - rebuilds with mag 21 seals and bushings.

  36. #36

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3
    So I need to find a Mag 21 rebuild kit and should be good to go, correct.
    Thanks
    TB

  37. #37

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3
    Rich, do you sell the re-build kits or do I send my forks to you for the fix?

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    New member here...

    Just tearing down my bike and need to rebuild my Mag 10. Richie, can you help? Thanks.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Since I'm a dork and I couldn't wait, I've removed the top cap off and confirmed that the air valves are brittle and need to be replaced. Where can I get this? Oh, and I'll also need shock oil... 5 wt.

    I did a search and saw the Judy has a Presta valve type. I wonder if that will fit?

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Done. The revival is complete. Pictures tomorrow.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977

    This is for a Mag-10 fork

    So, I got antsy over the weekend because I needed the bike up this coming week. With no local bike shop to support me for parts or rebuild (and no other parts or service available online except for Hippie Suspension and RichieB), I decided to look into the air valve leak myself.

    I took it apart using the service manual provided in this thread. Perhaps the most cumbersome part is removing the snap ring that secures the top cap... after that, it was a piece of cake. I drained all the old oil out (it was filthy) and inspected the dust wiper seals (they were still good so back they went). The inner seals also seemed okay (I didn't see any weeping from the upper tubes), so I didn't do any further disassembly.

    For the alternative air valve, I used Presta valve stems in lieu of the rubber air valves. I simply enlarged the threaded hole from the aluminum cap so that the valve stem could barely go through it. Then I used the threaded nut from the Presta stem as a base, inserted a rubber o-ring and ran that through the cap. On the outer/top side of the cap, I inserted another o-ring + a washer that had an inner diameter = outer diameter of the o-ring but less than the thickness of the o-ring. Another nut was used to secure both sides (and compress both o-rings).

    I used motorcycle fork oil (5 wt) instead of the factory oil... I don't think it makes a difference. The shocks can now hold a huge amount of pressure with no air leaks whatsoever.

    While I was at it, I stripped the old paint off and polished the aluminum casing.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Pardon the skinny tires, I'm off to a road ride this weekend.

  43. #43
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    I really hope your motorcycle shock oil didn't have Seal-Swell in it...

  44. #44
    All 26.5" all the time!
    Reputation: Zanetti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,855
    Quote Originally Posted by ron m.

    For the alternative air valve, I used Presta valve stems in lieu of the rubber air valves. I simply enlarged the threaded hole from the aluminum cap so that the valve stem could barely go through it. Then I used the threaded nut from the Presta stem as a base, inserted a rubber o-ring and ran that through the cap. On the outer/top side of the cap, I inserted another o-ring + a washer that had an inner diameter = outer diameter of the o-ring but less than the thickness of the o-ring. Another nut was used to secure both sides (and compress both o-rings).

    I used motorcycle fork oil (5 wt) instead of the factory oil... I don't think it makes a difference. The shocks can now hold a huge amount of pressure with no air leaks whatsoever.
    Well, that's using your head.

    Let's hope the rubber seals in the presta valve will withstand the oil.

    FYI: That fork is the Mag 30. They're the non-externally adjustable versions of the Mag 20.

    The 5wt fork oil will certainly liven things up a bit, but if you're looking for a a more active ride, try Redline 2.5wt suspension fluid. It's my personal fave in the Mag 21.


    Edit:

    Another FYI: That squared off fork crown was recalled for corrosion issues sixteen years ago. Keep a close eye on it for cracks and/or corrosion if you want to keep your teeth in your head.

    http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...ai_1612931505/
    Last edited by Zanetti; 08-04-2009 at 09:53 PM.

  45. #45
    Certified Bike Junkie
    Reputation: muddybuddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,747
    Looks good. I have a set of early mag 21s that have some corrosion that I've been wanting to polish. Low priority project though.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Thanks for all the replies.

    As far as the fork oil swelling the seals, only time will tell. The container gave no specifics about that point.

    If the Presta valve rubber ever gives in, replacing it with another one would be a cinch. I don't even have to remove the shocks off the crown.

    Interesting point about the squared crown. I'll inspect for fractures, but so far, it's been corrosion free.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Quote Originally Posted by Zanetti
    Well, that's using your head.


    FYI: That fork is the Mag 30. They're the non-externally adjustable versions of the Mag 20.


    http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...ai_1612931505/
    Thanks for the correction. =)

    I only thought Mag 10 because Turtleberg's attachment in this thread looks exactly like my fork, even the color! Is there a difference between a 10 and a 30?

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ozarkana's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3

    Mag 21 Horseshoe bracket

    Nice Fisher .. I have a Nirvana and just put a set of Rock Shox Indy C's on it. I noticed you have a similar front brake issue .. trying to use cantilever brakes with a shock front end. It doesn't brake too well unless you tighten up the forks. On mine, every time I hit the front brake it sucks the fork and wheel up so there is virtually no braking applied. The older Rock Shox had a different "horseshoe" clamp that had a brake boss on the top end, which would make canti brakes work. I've been trying to find an adapter to mount on the threaded "reflector hole" so I could route my brake cable to fix the problem. Does anyone out there know of such a beast?

    Last edited by Ozarkana; 08-07-2010 at 10:18 AM. Reason: added picture

  49. #49
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    OK, Anyone interested in Mag Fork service, I can help, but send a PM - let's not gum up the board with our private business.

    I don't sell individual parts, sadly, and even if I did, forum rules would not allow me to do so. Besides, I need all I can get for servicing the forks.

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ozarkana's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3

    Can anyone identify if this is a Mag 20 or Mag 21?

    RichieB probably knows which model this is.
    It has the older brace (horseshoe) that was made for cantilever brakes.
    Once I rebuild the seals I want to put it on my Fisher Nirvana.
    All the reviews I've read here say this a great old retro fork.
    Anybody else?


  51. #51
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    Mag 21

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3
    Sorry to jump on an old thread- newbie to the forum here.

    I have dusted off my old 93/94 vintage Raleigh Kalahari that was fitted with Mag 10 Rockshox (I think that is the model)

    Anyway the shox don't seem to work anymore and, using the online guides, I've tried to remove the metal retaining clip so that I can have a go at servicing them- I'm pretty sure it is the air-seal that has gone.

    Please could somebody give me a steer as to how to remove this clip- I have tried a number of methods now but don't want to damage the inside of the shox.

    I'd post them to Richie B but as I'm in the UK it's not feasible to send them to the US...

    many thanks

    Andrew

  53. #53
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    First, pump them up and squirt soapy water in the top cavity of the stantions (chrome tubes) and at the main seals (where the two parts of the legs join) to find out where your leak is coming from.

    That's step one.

    The next step will depend on the results of Step one.

    rb

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3
    Many thanks for the quick reply- I have done as suggested- it is definitely coming out of the air seals- one of them seems so poor that I can't actually pump any air into it- needle just rattles around as though the seal has enlarged or, possibly, dropped into leg.

    cheers
    Andrew

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3
    Please can somebody let me know how I remove the circular metal retaining clips that hold the air seals in place in the top of the stanchions

    thanks

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    1

    Sutherlands

    Quote Originally Posted by Superleggera
    Is there any PDF documents for disassembly or rebuilding? What special tools required? (note: I have a full machine shop, so nothing is impossible to make)
    I stumbled on this while looking for a manual...

    http://rockshoxmag.ibelgique.com/vrac/mag.pdf

    I like it better than the original...

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rudymexico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    254
    I have just got a bike with a Rock Shox Magnesium, but no numerals, it is not gold, more greyish...with adjusters on the top.

    Which model is it?

    gracias

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ozarkana's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by rudymexico
    I have just got a bike with a Rock Shox Magnesium, but no numerals, it is not gold, more greyish...with adjusters on the top.

    Which model is it?

    gracias
    Hey Rudy, I'm just guessing, but most of the Mag models, 10, 20 and 21 were a goldish green color. But I think the only one with an actual number was the Mag 21. So it's probably a Mag 20. Look here for much more info and pics.
    https://www.mombat.org/Rock_Shox.htm


  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    Bumping this thread for similar issues.

    Bought a couple Rockhoppers off craigslist. Both have Specialized Future Shock forks. One appears to be a Mag 10, the other a Quadra Q5/Q10 (not sure what the difference is).

    The Mag 10 has a bad air valve (part that nests into the air cap) on one leg. From what I've been reading I might be out of luck on this one, right? I did see a thread where someone modded it to use presta valves, but there was no followup to see how that worked over time. If there is no way to fix this, could I just fill the legs with oil nearly to the top and basically turn it into a (really heavy) rigid fork? I.e., just to make it rideable and safe?

    The Q5 I have not opened up yet, but I'm assuming the elastomers have petrified. I might just leave it as is, or I might try one of the $30 spring kits from http://wings-suspension.com/rockshox.html. Anyone have any experience with that company? Do all these guys basically just put the same $5 hardware store springs in a bag and charge you $30 for it? Any opinions on how well the springs work as a replacement?

    Thanks.

  60. #60
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    Curttard - it's a tough one. Those caps are hard to re-seal. I'd avoid the filling with oil idea, and throw a suspension-corrected rigid fork on there for now.

    Its possible, with some spare parts, and a bit of monkeying around, to swap internals and stanchions on that fork to give it adjuster knobs, etc, like the upper end forks of the day.

    If that's an interesting proposition to you, drop me an IM and I'll be happy to work something out and help you get that fork going again!

    rb

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    Thanks for the response. I would put a rigid fork on it except it's tough to find a fork with a 1" threaded steerer at this point. I don't really want to put much (any ) money into this bike because it was just going to be my quick go-for-a-ride-on-the-trail bike until I find something better, and was probably going to be re-sold in the next couple months anyway. Basically just trying to get it ride-able.

    Someone on bikeforums.net suggested replacing the air valve with a cut-to-fit piece of Bun-N cord, which doesn't sound like a bad idea, except I expect I'd have the same problem I do with the original valve even before it started leaking -- namely, that there is nothing really holding it in place in the cap, so putting the needle in often pushes it out of the cap entirely, making it fall into the leg.

  62. #62
    Neo-Retro Forever
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    If the fork as stock on thae bike, it's a 1 1/8 inch.

    Either way, I bet your local LBS has an old fork kicking aroundbthat they'll sell you for $15...

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    I will call around to the bike shops in the area. It is 1" though. 1993 Rockhopper Comp -- not the FS, oddly, so I guess the Future Shock fork was an add-on.

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Quote Originally Posted by curttard
    I will call around to the bike shops in the area. It is 1" though. 1993 Rockhopper Comp -- not the FS, oddly, so I guess the Future Shock fork was an add-on.
    Check your PM.

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    Well, I am just not having the same success as Ron M. had.

    Enlarged hole in air cap for prestas. O-ring on each side (used #47 from Home Depot), then washer, then presta nut. No good -- as I half-expected, air leaks out between the valve and the inside edge of the nut.

    Glopped up the inside with marine sealant and/or silicon sealant; same thing, although I'll be damned if I can figure out how air is getting out now -- sure doesn't look like there is any way for air to get out anywhere but through the valve body.

    The other problem is that now the valve itself is the only thing to grab onto with pliers to pull the air cap out, either to tinker with the valve or to change the oil. The presta valve isn't the hardiest thing in the world, so all that yanking is pretty hard on its threads.

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ron m.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    977
    Man, sorry to hear that. Mine's still good as we speak. Sometimes, over-torquing the crush washers could deform the O-rings and prevent a good seal.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    26
    Yeah, I have definitely not given up. I've got plenty of presta tubes laying around to get valves from if I need them, and plenty of o-rings, washers, and sealants. This is now my white whale!

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1
    This is a good thread to keep alive. I just bought a 91 Bontrager OS with a '93 Model 21 Rockshox mag and mostly first generation XTR (exept for a Ritchey/Sugino Crankset). I also had another '93 Model 21 Rockshox mag in my parts bin waiting for the right project. The only links in this thread that still seem to be working are the one to the .pdf overhaul manual and the one to Real World Cycling - who only carry the inner seals to fit the 10, 20 and 21.

    I'm keeping the Bontrager as is (with minor repairs) and I think this fork will work just fine for a 155# roadie who isn't looking for killer downhill or big air...

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/siteb...magservice.pdf

    http://enduroforkseals.com/id49.html - Real World Cycling - Seals

    And these great references found in another thread: http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/files/RSMagParts.pdf
    http://206.75.155.18/kmr/mag21.html

    It took me a lot of time on the web to identify what model Rockshox I have. The shape of the lower leg (with no bolt at the bottom) indicates they are air/oil 10, 20, 21, or 30 models unlike the Judy's and Quadras with elastomeric springs. The adjustable knob at the top indicates that they are 20 or 21. And the small phillips screw covering the air fill hole indicates they are a model 20 or first year 21. Additionally one of them has a serial number ending in "21" - could it be that simple? Does anyone else have serial numbers that match up with their early mag model numbers?

    Apparantely Bontrager used a unique fork crown for the stock Rockshox legs. It is significantly different shape than the stock one, offsetting the fork legs forward at the top, instead of angling them forward. I guess he wanted a different offset/trail than the stock one.

    The conversion to a presta fill valve seems like an improvement. That would mean that the pump and guage that I already carry would be capable of being used on the shock as well - without carrying the cool but kind of heavy special Rockshox gadget.

    Does anyone have any current sources for shock oil, seals, rebuild kits or tools for these shocks?

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    41
    Rockshox Mag 10/20/21/30 Seal Kit ..... just listed on Ebay

    Heads up!!!!!!

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by j306 View Post
    Rockshox Mag 10/20/21/30 Seal Kit ..... just listed on Ebay

    Heads up!!!!!!
    Wow, that was nearly 2 years ago

    Flash forward to today and I have another SEAL KIT
    going up on Ebay hopefully tomorrow.

    NOS: rock shox seal kit mag 10/20/21/30

    Will have better pictures, way better

    RockShox Magnesium rebuild kit-dsc_0021.jpg

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by curttard View Post
    Yeah, I have definitely not given up. I've got plenty of presta tubes laying around to get valves from if I need them, and plenty of o-rings, washers, and sealants. This is now my white whale!

    Hi curttard, did your harpoon ever fly true?

    I just got a '95 Stumpjumper FS with a Rockshox Mag 21 . The frame is in awesome condition but the fork is permanently bottomed out. I have zero experience servicing suspension forks so I'm just starting to learn and this thread has been great.

    Just wanted to ask if you continued this project to completion and if so, whether you have any pics or tips to share. Thanks.

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    32
    digimarket, I'm not sure why nobody replied to your message. It seems like you've done a lot of research and shared it. I'm in a similar situation now and just wanted to ask how your project went. Thanks.

Members who have read this thread: 27

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.