Need help to identify the year of this Stumpjumper.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Need help to identify the year of this Stumpjumper.

    Hi Experts,

    Could somebody pls give me an opinion - what year this bike looks like? Is it something from mid-90s or even older?
    It was a handover from one of my neighbors, but i was never much into bikes myself, so, sad to say, never truly knew what exactly i was given.

    Bike is still quite amazing to ride, weight is 25.8lbs as is, I only swapped old leather seat - still have it, and replaced brake pads over time. Drivetrain is shimano deore dx, 3x7 setup.

    I was thinking to convert it into a 1x setup, but not sure if it worth to alter its original shape and configuration, if it was indeed all original, which i am not quite sure, especially the fork seems like an upgrade - not an original part, is it so? What would you say?

    thx, Paul.
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    Need help to identify the year of this Stumpjumper.-2020-06-27-11.44.28.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Looks like a '92. Good Stuff then and Now

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by hud56 View Post
    Looks like a '92. Good Stuff then and Now
    i presume those magnesium rockshox forks are not original parts? or were they?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by utkinpaul View Post
    i presume those magnesium rockshox forks are not original parts? or were they?
    I believe they were rigid except the ones with the specialized branded future shock or whatever they called it. I think you can still get elastomers for them if you don't want to mess with swapping it out.
    WTB: Med Bontrager Ti Lite, PM Me...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hud56 View Post
    Looks like a '92. Good Stuff then and Now
    I was going to say 92 as well.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jestep View Post
    I believe they were rigid except the ones with the specialized branded future shock or whatever they called it. I think you can still get elastomers for them if you don't want to mess with swapping it out.
    Itīs an air oil fork. Is it possible to rebuild those these days? I had one and liked it. The original fork on those stumpys was nice, light and supple.

    I would keep the 3 rings up front. Itīs a thumbshifter right? Itīs a sweet set up and takes care of everything you throw at it: flats, climbs, downhill... Cassettes are still around and everything is much much cheaper than 10sp.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    Itīs an air oil fork. Is it possible to rebuild those these days? I had one and liked it. The original fork on those stumpys was nice, light and supple.

    I would keep the 3 rings up front. Itīs a thumbshifter right? Itīs a sweet set up and takes care of everything you throw at it: flats, climbs, downhill... Cassettes are still around and everything is much much cheaper than 10sp.
    Crap, thought it was just one of the elastomer ones. You can probably get seals and wipers, replacing actual internals will likely be difficult.
    WTB: Med Bontrager Ti Lite, PM Me...

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    It all works very well still, no need for a rebuild yet. I hope it will continue to run well - just went out with my son. I am getting myself a motobecane hal29 with x1 12sp sram eagle, and will keep this bike as is. I like it very much, it is a joy to control on a trail. Only rear deore derailleur is not all the time cooperating under load while climbing. I am a bit afraid of taking it all apart - some parts are really rusty there, it is old.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jestep View Post
    Crap, thought it was just one of the elastomer ones. You can probably get seals and wipers, replacing actual internals will likely be difficult.
    Those forks had very little travel and flexed laterally like crazy. Otoh you could tune it so many ways it was a delight for anyone who likes to tinker w/ a bike. On the long travel mode(60mm!) it became smoother and more sensitive. Bontrager used to massage mag21s removing seals which made it plush. So i hear. I remember my ma21 being better than the JUdy sl.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by utkinpaul View Post
    It all works very well still, no need for a rebuild yet. I hope it will continue to run well - just went out with my son. I am getting myself a motobecane hal29 with x1 12sp sram eagle, and will keep this bike as is. I like it very much, it is a joy to control on a trail. Only rear deore derailleur is not all the time cooperating under load while climbing. I am a bit afraid of taking it all apart - some parts are really rusty there, it is old.
    Donīt take the derrailleur apart. Itīs probably a cassette needing replacement or even tuning the cable. Itīs a deore dx derrailleur: those things are very well made. In Europe deore dx has even more love than xt from the era.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

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    Going to bigger cogs is working more or less accurate, click by click. Dropping down is worse - it sometimes refuses to move down to smaller one and then suddenly drops 2 cogs down. Not an end of the world but annoying a bit. It is seemingly tuned correctly, so, may be it needs a new chain and cassette. Which one will fit there of what exists today? I am afraid that swapping parts of this old drivetrain will only make it worse.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by utkinpaul View Post
    Going to bigger cogs is working more or less accurate, click by click. Dropping down is worse - it sometimes refuses to move down to smaller one and then suddenly drops 2 cogs down. Not an end of the world but annoying a bit. It is seemingly tuned correctly, so, may be it needs a new chain and cassette. Which one will fit there of what exists today? I am afraid that swapping parts of this old drivetrain will only make it worse.




    It may or may not need a new chain & cassette but that's not causing your shifting issues. Replace the cable & housing, or try pulling the housing back and oiling the cables first.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  13. #13
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    Shifter was not set with a stainless steel bolt and nut, so, now it is one rusty mess there, can only be cut off. I like it as it is, nice vintage stuff. I can live with some imperfections. Oiling cables - will do, it is easy.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    It may or may not need a new chain & cassette but that's not causing your shifting issues. Replace the cable & housing, or try pulling the housing back and oiling the cables first.
    Just replace cables and housing. Itīs cheaper than oil on your clothes everytime you pick the bike. It sounds like housing is crimped at the ends. 7sp chain and cassette is not expensive.

    What do you need to cut off? The thumb shifter bracket? Those things shift so well and are so simple. Rapid fire is just a complicated unit that improves nothing ergonomically speaking.

    I would replace all housing and cables w/ cheap stuff from the lbs. I bet it will start working well.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    Just replace cables and housing. Itīs cheaper than oil on your clothes everytime you pick the bike. It sounds like housing is crimped at the ends. 7sp chain and cassette is not expensive.

    You won't get oil on your clothes because its inside the housing. Replacing the cables is probably optimal (and my first suggestion) but cleaning and oiling them is a 5 minute down & dirty fix that very often works and is free.

    You're right, a 7 speed chain and cassette isn't that expensive but maybe unnecessary and unlikely to help with the op's problem.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    You won't get oil on your clothes because its inside the housing. Replacing the cables is probably optimal (and my first suggestion) but cleaning and oiling them is a 5 minute down & dirty fix that very often works and is free.

    You're right, a 7 speed chain and cassette isn't that expensive but maybe unnecessary and unlikely to help with the op's problem.
    I bet housing ends are crimped. HOusing and cables are cheap. The basic ones at least and itīs a 7sp set up w/ thumbshifters: anything basic will do the job.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    I bet housing ends are crimped. HOusing and cables are cheap. The basic ones at least and itīs a 7sp set up w/ thumbshifters: anything basic will do the job.


    You never know but I wouldn't bet on it unless I got pretty good odds, cable restriction due to crimped ends isn't nearly as common as cable restriction due to dirt & corrosion.

    Again, I'm not advocating against getting a new one, just saying that I cure shifting woes on a daily basis with a little clean & lube. It works.
    I brake for stinkbugs

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