Lets make a geometry spread sheet for vrc bikes- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Reputation: ckevlar's Avatar
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    Lets make a geometry spread sheet for vrc bikes

    So I had an idea a while ago but never started a thread. Craigs post in the overrated thread sparked it again. How about we gather all the specs for our favorite frame sets and make a spreadsheet so we can see the differences between all our favorite rides?
    If you know the geometry for your favorite ride post it here. I will try to make a spread that will have all of them on it.I know that for different sizes some things change so lets be specific. If you know the change and for what size post that to.
    So lets see. I'll start a blank list and if i missed anything please let me know. Oh and no guessing here. If you dont know or dont have complete info just pass. And if you want to discuss the geometry lets start a new thread for that so this will be easier to navigate. This could get to be a long spread. So lets leave all the crap bike out of it. You know what they are. Lets say if it did not say Team or come with TOL crap on it it wont be included. Unless you have a really good reason. Even then. lol

    Maybe the easiest way would be to compile the list of info we need to fill out first.

    Brand:
    Year:
    Model:
    Size:
    Head tube angle:
    Seat tube angle:
    Top tube length:
    Chainstay length:
    Wheelbase:
    Fork offset:
    Bottom-bracket height:
    Source of info:
    Your name: So if you F up we know who to blame

    What else?

    One thing to keep in mind if a measurement is center to center or otherwise it should be noted.

  2. #2
    artistic...
    Reputation: colker1's Avatar
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    Fat City
    wicked
    18in
    top tube 22.25in
    wheelbase 41in
    71/72
    BB height 12in
    seatstay 17.15

    it has a rear weight bias. it will throw your fat a** way back so the rather short top tube will feel less cramped than it should.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  3. #3
    VRC Hound
    Reputation: bushpig's Avatar
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    I bought a tool to measure geo and have been surprised. I'll see what numbers I can produce.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fillet-brazed's Avatar
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    wheelbase and front center measurements, if done at home, need to be done with the front fork in a fixed position, taken from both sides and then averaged. Way too easy to mess that measurement up.

    Measuring seat and head angles should be done twice as well (turn bike 180 degrees and then check again) and then averaged. This accounts for a 1-2 degree slope on a slab or floor.

  5. #5
    VRC Hound
    Reputation: bushpig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed
    wheelbase and front center measurements, if done at home, need to be done with the front fork in a fixed position, taken from both sides and then averaged. Way too easy to mess that measurement up.

    Measuring seat and head angles should be done twice as well (turn bike 180 degrees and then check again) and then averaged. This accounts for a 1-2 degree slope on a slab or floor.
    Good ideas. I measure the floor too to see if it has an angle.

  6. #6
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    Can we use this format and fill it in. It will keep things consistent. Or maybe i should try to set up an excel sheet and we can pass it along. If we use the format below and just leave the info we dont have blank it will make things easier for me to compile. Try to be complete if you can.

    Hey Pig, With all those bike you have, you dont have official documentation on them?

    Brand:
    Year:
    Model:
    Size:
    Head tube angle:
    Seat tube angle:
    Top tube length:
    Chainstay length:
    Wheelbase:
    Fork offset:
    Bottom-bracket height:
    Source of info:
    Your name:
    Last edited by ckevlar; 01-05-2010 at 01:28 PM.

  7. #7
    Bike Dork
    Reputation: themanmonkey's Avatar
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    If you use BB height you need wheel diameter also so you can calculate drop. What FB said need to be added too. Also the fork length is just as important as the rake. Chainstay bridge, yes or no? Etc, etc, etc.

    In reality you also need all the tubing sizes and kinds and taper lengths and buts, etc. With the basic stats you want a batch of bikes can all have the same stats and ride totally differently. As they say the devil is in the details and you're just asking for generalities. If you really want to do this I can make you up a list of things a builder would want to know which is about 30 details.

  8. #8
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    Thats seems like too much unobtainable info. I was thinking more like catalog specs. that were given from the manufacturers. But this is not just for me. We''ll go with what the majority rules is wanted.

  9. #9
    Bike Dork
    Reputation: themanmonkey's Avatar
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    It's not unobtainable, it's just hard to get. The problem is that without all the little details it's almost useless to quantify the differences in ride. As an example you can have the same geometry and swap out the chain and seatstays for larger ones and have a totally different riding bike. This is how custom builders "tune the ride" for a specific desired end result.

    Think off all the bikes with NORBA geometry from '92-'96 and how differently they all rode. I think this is a worthy project, but it needs to be done correctly to mean anything.

  10. #10
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by themanmonkey
    I think this is a worthy project, but it needs to be done correctly to mean anything.
    Agreed, while the numbers are critical, build details like tube diameter can be really helpful. That's were some of the name that's on the tubes, does come into play. I think it's an awesome idea, thanks for posting it
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