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  1. #1
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    Identify

    I have been going through a bunch of my bike junk. Sorting, cataloging, storing, and purging in anticipation of moving sometime soon (still trying to convince a bank our offer is enough on their house that has sat vacant for the past year).

    Trying to identify a couple of things:

    These are the bar ends that were in the stoker position on my tandem for years before switching to a different bar setup. The expanders go inside the bar ends as opposed to outside with a clamp. Didn't most all the early bar ends use this approach? Syncros possibly? Too many years, memory fading, and I didn't even smoke bud...


    Attachment 516150

    No clue where this BB came from but it looks cool with the double sets of bearings. too bad I am missing the axle, huge hole to fill. Not certain if it's road or Mtn. Only marking is an L and a R stamped in white:

    Attachment 516151

    Just curious what I have. I promise, I am not seeking to make my fortune on the bay with these well preserved items (one of the bar ends has just a slight bend to it). , Although they May possibly end up on the lets trade post.

    Thanks,
    T
    Last edited by tductape; 02-29-2012 at 11:35 PM.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  2. #2
    VRC Hound
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    Syncros bar ends.

  3. #3
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    Problem with those syncros bar ends is the wedges were designed primarily to fit inside syncros handlebars of the era. Another brand bar (with a different tube wall thickness) and they might not fit at all, or would still slip no matter how much you tighten the bolts. As to the bottom bracket, late model version for a Grove Innovations HotRod crankset (the spindle was welded to the right crankarm, and the left end had a 3-lobe shape like a Wankel engine rotor). It was basically the only crank back then to use a double-bearing setup on both cups with an oversized spindle diameter, and the center aluminium sleeve to seal out water and keep you from over-installing the cups into a frame. The early versions used the traditional flat fixed-cup wrench profile to the cups, later ones used the multi-prong adjustable cup wrenches (which tended to take torque better without the wrench slipping and rounding edges).

    http://www.bikepro.com/products/cranks/grove.html

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the Beta. You all are a wealth of information.....
    T
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

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