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  1. #1
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    Best practices for cantilever pad setup. Goat got some new stoppers

    Finally removed all evidence of V-brakes from the Goat. Added some black Suntour brakes & hangers to match the rest of the build. Looks much better now.

    I would like some advice on setting up the brakes & pads. Any best practices out there to easily set toe & all that would be much appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Best practices for cantilever pad setup. Goat got some new stoppers-new-suntour-brakes-hangers-1.jpg  

    83 Ritchey Everest
    88 Mountain Goat Whiskeytown Racer
    95 Bianchi Mega Tube ti
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD
    2015 Kona Process 153

  2. #2
    Anytime. Anywhere.
    Reputation: Travis Bickle's Avatar
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    See if you can find Keith Bontrages article about cantilever setup. I did way back and was able to use 1 finger. Don't recall the deets now.

    Sent from my SM-G935S using Tapatalk
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  3. #3
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    83 Ritchey Everest
    88 Mountain Goat Whiskeytown Racer
    95 Bianchi Mega Tube ti
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD
    2015 Kona Process 153

  4. #4
    No known cure
    Reputation: Vader's Avatar
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    Use a business card on the rear of the pad to set toe in. Some pads, like Kool Stop have a slight ramp on the rear to make it easier. Here's another resource.

    https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  5. #5
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    Getting the cables right - de-burred and properly round - plays a big part in this. Sharp cutters are key.

    Assuring that the brakes are a good fit on the posts is also important. Filing a post where necessary can result in less play and better, more positive, contact.

    Last tip I have is using a brake that has no tension you are setting the pad. With internal springs (like your Suntours), try taking the spring out until the pad is set just right. With Paul brakes (my fav) or old post-mounts, the disengagement is easy and makes perfect toe and placement easy.

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