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  1. #1
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    Will a Comp 32 (2.8) fit the rear of a Highline?

    After a number of blow outs going down Noble canyon on my first outing on the Highline, I soon came to the conclusion that the single-ply Nevegal is not enough beef for the Highline- at least for the rear.

    I also discovered I really hate changing flats and tires on the new 6.1D rims, not to mention dealing with a through axel.

    So back to my orginal point, I have a pair of these 2.8's at home that I may put on this week. It says on Turner's website 2.7 is the maximum. Anyone have any experience running these?

    I have Totem on the front, and assume this should be no problem.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    i think you can go up a size safely on any turner. all ya loose is some mud clearence. the rfx is only supposed to be good up to a 2.4 but my 2.5 kendas fit dandy with enough room to bend a rim. i say try it. gotta change the tube anyway, right?
    No, I'm NOT back!

  3. #3
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    Yes. Thanks. Since it is so tough to change tires, I didn't want my struggle to be in vain. The 2.8 is pretty massive for a rear. The other options to match a front Michelin Comp 32 that I have are an old Comp 24 2.5, and a 2.5 Highroller super tacky.

  4. #4
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    Yes. I have run a 2.8 Michelin no prob on the rear.

  5. #5
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    Yes. Thanks. Since it is so tough to change tires, I didn't want my struggle to be in vain. The 2.8 is pretty massive for a rear. The other options to match a front Michelin Comp 32 that I have are an old Comp 24 2.5, and a 2.5 Highroller super tacky.
    I would go either the comp 24 or 2.5 high roller in back (both great tires!) The comp 24's are tough as nails, I run those tubeless until the tread is gone...never any problems.

    2.8 in back (and a michy 2.8 is really like a 3.0 ) just makes the bike feel heavy imho...

  6. #6
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    IMHO...a 2.8" tire is too much meat for a trail bike.
    Try some form of semi-slick & be done with it!


  7. #7
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    I was PF'ing the single ply Nevys every other ride and the sidewalls rolled and squirmed so much I thought my wheel or rear tri was loose. Chuck em.

    I've been running the MHR 2.5 USTs on my RFX and beeting the bageebies out of it. Off the lifts and drops into some nasty rocky trails. At 235+ If I can't roll and burp em, they should be more than enough beef for you. Worth a try. Good price too.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  8. #8
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    That 2.8 is a HOG. I only run it on the odd occasion on the dedicated DH bike....and ONLY on the front, in dry, rocky conditions. It works great in limmited application, but I think it is too big and too slow for 99% of the DH'in I do.

    The 24 is a great tire for dry conditions. It is fast and grips like crazy....only prob is it pack up if muddy. The mich DH tires sidewalls are night and day different than the single ply kendas...Lots of guys race DH with a 2.2 mich in back and a 2.5 front.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    I would go either the comp 24 or 2.5 high roller in back (both great tires!) The comp 24's are tough as nails, I run those tubeless until the tread is gone...never any problems.

    2.8 in back (and a michy 2.8 is really like a 3.0 ) just makes the bike feel heavy imho...
    My bad. It's a comp 16 that I have not the 24. Still ok as a rear? I had the 2.8's on my RFX for a couple weeks, and I remember how hard it was to pedal up anything. Good grip though.

  10. #10
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    My bad. It's a comp 16 that I have not the 24. Still ok as a rear? I had the 2.8's on my RFX for a couple weeks, and I remember how hard it was to pedal up anything. Good grip though.
    what are your trail conditions and tire selection?

    2.5 comp 16 in front and 2.5 high roller in back would be a good combo for wet/loose conditions- here at least....

  11. #11
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    The 16 is a better front tire and likes conditions where it can penerate the soil (either loose dust or light muddy conditions). The profile is quite square and the side knobs are tall. This makes for a tire that squirms a bit under hard cornering on hard pack.

    You could trim the height of the side knobs....

  12. #12
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    Trail conditions

    Dry Southern Cal terrain ranging from loose sand, to various combos of sand and hardpack, and lots of rocks all on the same trail. Same stuff you see Aqua riding in his pics. Not much real soil.

    As for tires:
    I do have a 2.5 and 2.35 MHR (both super tacky), which I am starting to think I may run again. Kind of low volume for their size.

    Then two Michi 2.8 comp 32's, one 2.5 comp 16, one 2.5 Blue groove single ply.

    Zilla- glad your digging the Highrollers. How are your side nobs fairing?

  13. #13
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    Dry Southern Cal terrain ranging from loose sand, to various combos of sand and hardpack, and lots of rocks all on the same trail. Same stuff you see Aqua riding in his pics. Not much real soil.
    Man that is tough. I know you've ridden up here, you probably know PNW better than I know Ca. In the winter here (i.e. now ) we get a lot of rain and then the trails are wet roots covered with sloppy wet mulch. I really like square tires, like the high roller/comp 16/ hutchinson octopus when it's wet or loose. If it's dry/packed, I like rounder tires like the comp 24. Spring/ fall I like a square tire in front and a round tire in back. (just not the reverse!)

    So if your trails are loose, the comp 16 (f) and high roller (R) might be good. But I doubt the comp 16 would make a good back tire paired with a comp 32 up front (i.e. round front, suqre back). Just my .02c, of course we have different terrain...cheers...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    Dry Southern Cal terrain ranging from loose sand, to various combos of sand and hardpack, and lots of rocks all on the same trail. Same stuff you see Aqua riding in his pics. Not much real soil.

    As for tires:
    I do have a 2.5 and 2.35 MHR (both super tacky), which I am starting to think I may run again. Kind of low volume for their size.

    Then two Michi 2.8 comp 32's, one 2.5 comp 16, one 2.5 Blue groove single ply.

    Zilla- glad your digging the Highrollers. How are your side nobs fairing?
    To me this is a no brainer...
    Run the 2.35 R and 2.5 F High Rollers, great tires for your conditions.
    This is a fast & reliable combo, I often run this set up for racing on the DHR.
    For even better performance buy a 2.5 Minion F 3C to put up front.
    Single plys + rocky terrain + big bike = lots of flats.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    Dry Southern Cal terrain ranging from loose sand, to various combos of sand and hardpack, and lots of rocks all on the same trail. Same stuff you see Aqua riding in his pics. Not much real soil.

    Zilla- glad your digging the Highrollers. How are your side nobs fairing?
    Here's were we diverge... I have almost no experience on such conditions. Check with Scubapro, he's a Westie and he likes the MHRs too. I find them great for what I do in the NE and their traction and relative rolling resistance is really quite good. The side knobs have been very sturdy. I clip and scrape cornering rocks all the time and haven't torn a lug on three different sets (2.1s 2.23s & 2.5s). The 2.1s are fast as hell so the 2.3s are obviously faster than the 2.5s

    I don't get much high speed cornering but the times I really push it hard into corners, I find them a little sketchy. Controlled but I think the NBXs I've had cornered better. The knobs don't squirm but I sure can feel it breaking grip when I lay it over. It may be just that the speed and straight line traction is so awesome that I expect it to be equally endless laterally. OTOH I run ~35 PSI... now that I trust these tires I'll try some lower pressures on the bigger ones. The larger ones do corner better by default(duh) a few less PSI might really lock em in.

    under 40psi I burpped the 2.3s a lot on the rear but that might be a bad set b/c I don't have that problem with the 2.5s or 2.1s

    I used to love the Fat Alberts up front but they were expensive and tossed knobs like schoolgirls toss flip-flops.
    Faster is better, even when it's not.

  16. #16
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    I won't re-type all of it, but.....


    IMO, FM and 1soul are right on with my experiences.

  17. #17
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    Zilla- I have the same issue with my HR 2.35. It is a prototype so I thought it must be defective. So I took that out of the mix.

    Just got back from the LBS. They just had the comp 16 in tubeless, and it was noticably heavier then the HR 2.7 tacky I held in my other hand. (Come to think of it, the 32's are tubeless too). I also felt the HR 3C 2.5, which also seemed a bit heavier due to density then the 2.7.

    So I walked out with a HR 2.7 for a front tire, and my 2.5 will now go in back. I couldn't find much negatives about the HR for my local conditions except fast wear, and everybody seems to love them. I don't know, but the 3C compound seems like it could wear out even faster.

    Thanks for all the comments!

  18. #18
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    You can run any of the maxxis tires tubeless no problemo if you want. I have single plies on the trail bike and DH 3C's on the Dh bike both tubeless with a 'lil stans...no problem all season.

  19. #19
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    The 3Cs last a bit better than the SlowReezay, and noticeably longer than the ST compounds.
    They are heavier though.
    2nd the tubeless comments, a little Stans w/ a rimstrip or tubeless rim and Maxxis tires work great.
    The sidewall insert helps prevent casing cuts as well.
    I ran Mitchys for a while but always had problems with the lighter sidewalls.

  20. #20
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    I never tried tubeless before. So, all it takes is a Stans kit?

    The Michy tubeless tires I looked at seemed a lot thicker then the Highrollers.

    Anyway the 2.5 turned out to be a 3C. Will that get chewed up fast as a rear?

  21. #21
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    I never tried tubeless before. So, all it takes is a Stans kit?

    The Michy tubeless tires I looked at seemed a lot thicker then the Highrollers.

    Anyway the 2.5 turned out to be a 3C. Will that get chewed up fast as a rear?
    All michelin DH tires are tubeless/nagesti compatible. Don't run a tube and the weight is a wash, compared to most other DH tires+ tubes....

    If you have UST rims, you don't need anything except compressed air and soapy water. If your rims aren't UST, then you'll need stans or you can make your own rims trips. Search away.

    Comp 16's aren't too bad... comp 24's are heavier. Just depends on what you are doing... climbing or not.... I take the comp 24's off when whistler closes

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock
    I never tried tubeless before. So, all it takes is a Stans kit?

    The Michy tubeless tires I looked at seemed a lot thicker then the Highrollers.

    Anyway the 2.5 turned out to be a 3C. Will that get chewed up fast as a rear?

    I have been/was a mich guy for a while, but from what I have seen with solw reezay (40a) and super tacky (42a), the 3Cs (what I currently run) last a bit longer and are less prone to knob tearing. My current 3Cs have been lasting well.

    The (propper) stans kit will turn any rim tubeless. I have not used a tube (except for the road bike) for four years thanks to stan. You might need a source of comprssed air....I use Co2 inflators occasion tires that are difficult to seat.

  23. #23
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    Has anybody else mounted tires recently to the newer 6.1d rims? Is it just me, or are those rims tough? I imagine tubless would be real tough.

    Pardon the newbie question, but why do you need compressed air to mount tubless? Thats one thing that has kept me from considering tubless, is hearing about needing an air compressor.

  24. #24
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    compressed

    Why not just buy a compressor? They are pretty cheap and you will not have to go to the gas station at 6:00 am like I did this morning to mount a new tire!! Sure there is a compressor at work, but that was further away then the nearest gas station. Of course a compressor in the corner of my garage would have been even closer, if I had one. Buy a compressor, I know I will, Home Depot here is my visa. Done. Any tire any time no more flailing elbows, and even more fun is the one arm pumping while the other tries to seat the tire.

    In the past I had no need for one as I was against tubeless, but Velobum makes fun of me every time I get a cactus thorn flat when we ride so I decided to give it another try this winter. Well I have had none of the bad stuff happen like in years past, and no cactus flats either. The Stans has already been paid for by my lack of tube buying. I can have more fun riding as I am not looking out for every loose piece of cholla rolling around in the trail.

    DT

  25. #25
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    Hey DT, hope you had a good ride this morning!

    It would depend how cheap and how small. I don't have a garage (condo). I'll have to check out Home Depot and see what we're talking about.

    I generally have not had a big thorn issue in San Diego. More pinch flats. Pumping up the Kendas did not stop the flats, but it does degrade the traction alot on the hardpack.

  26. #26
    FM
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    I knew DT would come around sooner or later

    You can get a compressed air tank at sears for like $25. Refill at your local gas station, it's enough air to seat 4-6 tires then you just go refill it. Thats what I've got. If I was starting from scratch, I would just get an air compressor (handy for nail guns, etc) but the air tanks are cheap and silent.

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