What rim's are you using?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    antique spoon expert
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    What rim's are you using?

    I'm building up a new wheelset. My X317 Discs are too narrow for larger volume tires while using Stan's no-Tubes. I can't even get a Conti 2.3 to stay on the bead.
    I weigh around 190lbs in riding gear and do all tech trail type stuff with drops up to 3-4' (but not offten)
    What are people using? I want somthing strong without it being an anchor.

  2. #2
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    Mavic 819 - if you want tubeless and a reasonably robust wheel but not an anchor (~510 grams)
    Syncros DP25 - about 515 grams. not UST rim though. good price and strong
    Syncros DS28 - about 540 grams, not UST and even more robust than DP25. good relative price.

    other rims for sure but these are the ones I have researched that come close to meeting your needs I think.....

  3. #3
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    stans?

    any thoughts on the stans olympics? i was thinkin of usein them on a sub 24lb flux capable of a 2' to 3' occasional trail drop. news ive heard is good but i know no one who uses them.
    No, I'm NOT back!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    Mavic 819 - if you want tubeless and a reasonably robust wheel but not an anchor (~510 grams)
    Syncros DP25 - about 515 grams. not UST rim though. good price and strong
    Syncros DS28 - about 540 grams, not UST and even more robust than DP25. good relative price.

    other rims for sure but these are the ones I have researched that come close to meeting your needs I think.....

    Was trying to stay away from UST. I just feel there are more options out there if you use the Stan's kit to go tubless. I'll look at the Sycros though.

  5. #5
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    WTB Dual Duty- 575g, 30mm wide. Nice light FR rims. Only about 6 mo of use so far.
    Mavic F219 and XM321 (same rim)- 570g, 28mm wide. Very good rims. Strong, cheap. Great rims.
    Syncros DP25- See FauxSchnitzel's comments
    Velocity Aeroheat- 420g, 22mm wide (?). Pretty good rims. I finally munched one but it surived a lot of abuse in Moab and Kodiak first.
    Mavic X317- you've got 'em.

    The F219/XM321 are my favorites.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  6. #6
    MK_
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    I'm ditching my 819s and going back to tubes. I've had a lot of headaches with the tubless setup and I am through. Tire choice is better and swapping a tube on trail beats the hell out of dealing with rocket propelled sealant spraying out back and not doing it's job. Maybe I should have ran heavier tires, but I am not willing to go that route, too much climbing in my area.

    I'm going with Tioga Factory DH rims. 590g (mine are 580g), 35mm wide and unique. Would like to say pretty, but the "racing" stripe looks more like a skunk. (http://www.tiogausa.com/products/rims.html) They're stout, too. (http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Rim/product_22626.shtml). They are tough to get tires on and off, though, so it might be a deterrent.

    One thing I did learn from my whole tubless experience is that sealant does work on punctures and snakebites. It doesn't work on torn tires, which is why I am ditching UST and going with a 2 layer setup. Tire to take the abuse and tube to hold the air. Tubes will be True Goo filled tubes (www.truegoo.com).

    Syncros rims are great and so are Alex rims. To above mentioned Syncros, I would add Alex FD28 rim. 28mm wide, 490g. Supra D also looks good on paper. 32mm wide, 580g and deep. Supra BH is the same thing but not welded, so it might be cheeper. Finally, Bontrager Big Earl rims also look good on paper.

    _MK
    Last edited by MK_; 08-09-2005 at 11:36 PM.

  7. #7
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    Arrow Racing XCL 496 grams and 27 mm wide. So far so good no problems to speak of.www.arrowracing.com
    Paco the "Flyin' Finn"

  8. #8
    MK_
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    This thread got me scouting for more rim choices to use myself. Another 28mm rim, similar to F219 is Halo Freedom rim. 545g. http://www.halorims.com/HaloNew/freedomdisc.htm

    Say, what bike is this going on, might narrow down some choices?

    _MK

  9. #9
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    XM321: Inexpensive and take a beating.

  10. #10
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    Mavic 819's here....zero problems.... they take a beating cause I do test the durability of my parts on each ride

  11. #11
    BOOST THAT SH*T!
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    823's...lovin' em
    "A splendid time was had by all and all were had." ~ Wire Train

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by locorum
    What are people using? I want somthing strong without it being an anchor.
    I'm running UST: 819s, Conti Vert Pro 2.3s, and 1 scoop+ of Stans. Routine 3-4 foot drops are no problem.

    About 3 hours ago I got to the top of a climb and stopped to wait for a friend. I looked down at my front tire to flick off what looked like a pebble. Next thing I hear hissing and see bubbles. I lifted the front wheel and rotated it a few times to get the Stan's flowing and it sealed in about 10 seconds. I love tubeless.

    The only down side I've had with this setup is burping air (and Stan's). I'm 210lbs; if I run below 32psi or so up front I risk burping. However, its only happened twice in 8 months.


  13. #13
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    Sweet

    Syncros DP25 great all mountain.

  14. #14
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    The Mavic 321 is the standard choice for single track with 2-2.5" tires in Sweden. I wanted wider rims than that and made a lot of comparing before settling on Sun Ringlé Singletrack (go with the welded version).

    I wanted the WTB LaserDisc DH but it was too expensive for me.

    I use my 'Spot for anything between flat singletrack to steep DH and the wheels are holding up well. They've been with me for two weeks in Austria, one weekend of shuttle DH, one week of shuttle DH at Are Mountain Mayhem apart from several single track bashings on some gnarly stuff this summer.

    If they were to fail I'd go with the LaserDisc DH.

    I'm 6' and 200 lbs.
    Regards,
    /Tobbe - In Mud We Thrust / Carpe Diem

  15. #15
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    I cant believe there hasnt been a mention of DT Swiss Rims!

    The xr 4.1d (these are light like the 317's) Mine have 36 holes and have held up to beatings on the 5spot for 8 months now. plenty of dirt jumps, rocky trails and pinchflat rim smacks. these dt's hold up more than I imagined they would. I'll give 5 flaming turd biscuits for DTrims.

    For a burlier rim check out the 6.1's. (620g +or-) Its more durable than the 4.1.

    I decided to go tubeless on my DH rig. Thought long and hard, could easily have gotten away with the 6.1's, (light rider) but I decided to go Tubeless at snagged the last 2 of 4 Mavic 823's.
    I am tired of freakin pinch flats doods.

    good luck & let us know what you get.


  16. #16
    Roy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paco Finn
    Arrow Racing XCL 496 grams and 27 mm wide.
    I second the Arrows. Run them on my Pack and they are incredibly strong and wider than average. Their other rims are the rims of choice by the DH guys so I would anticipate their XC rim to be quite burly (and it is).

  17. #17
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    Mavic 819 Disc

    Mavic 819 Disc 420gr
    with ust strip from Stans Notube

  18. #18
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by fedexil
    Mavic 819 Disc 420gr
    with ust strip from Stans Notube
    Where did you come up with that number?

    _MK

  19. #19
    Keep on Rockin...
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    The next "step up" in rims from the 717...

    Quote Originally Posted by locorum
    I'm building up a new wheelset. My X317 Discs are too narrow for larger volume tires while using Stan's no-Tubes. I can't even get a Conti 2.3 to stay on the bead.
    I weigh around 190lbs in riding gear and do all tech trail type stuff with drops up to 3-4' (but not offten)
    What are people using? I want somthing strong without it being an anchor.

    Is the XM 719. Great weight to strength ratio. A good trail riding rim that can handle small drops if you are smooth.

    Match your rim to the rest of your bike. A bike is as only strong as it's weakest link.

    Mike

  20. #20
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    Wink Another vote for the XM321

    Great rim, haven't managed to get it out of true even with my inept 180 practice! Went for the 36h with Kings but realise now that was probably overkill, but they certainly give me alot of confidence. Buy them!

  21. #21
    MK_
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    You need spokes and nipples in addition to a rim and a hub (per wheel). A tube and a rim strip, inside the tire.

    _MK

  22. #22
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    The winners to me at least appear to be:

    Syncros DP25 - about 515 grams
    Arrow Racing XCL 496 grams and 27 mm wide

    I'm new at this wheel building thing....so bear with me...

    What other components do you need besides a hub and tire to build a wheel?

    I heard the Hope XC is a great hub.

    I'm trying to build complete wheels for under 600. So a couple ideas would help me in case my supplier don't have the first thing on the list.

    Can someone help?

    Also, someone recommended Cane Creek Zonos disc Team Issue 1666g. Anyone know anything about this wheel?

  23. #23
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    I don't know how to build a wheel, so what's the best option for around $600. Something light, i won't be jumping on, XC racing.

  24. #24
    MK_
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    Either Dave's Speed Dream wheelset of Oddsandendos wheelset by Mike Garcia. Mavic Crossmax XLs, if you're ok with factory wheelset. Otherwise pick and choose parts. Jenson will build you a wheel when you choose all the parts, I believe, for free. A bike shop will be ~$30 a wheel to build, so ~$540 for the parts. If this was a year ago, I would say King hubs, but that's impossible now, unless you find a used set. Hadley or Hope Bulbs. New Hopes look good too. DT 240s are great hubs as well. Sounds like you have your rims. Go with Sapim Race spokes (from Thorusa.com) or butted spokes by DT or wheelsmith. Nipps are pocket change. Alloy ones are lighter. Silver spokes are lighter too as black spokes are painted silver spokes.

    _MK

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jank
    I don't know how to build a wheel, so what's the best option for around $600. Something light, i won't be jumping on, XC racing.

    Er options....can someone around 3 options for under 600....complete wheelset i guess...pluses and minuses to each selection?

  26. #26
    No, that's not phonetic
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    I'd stay away from "factory system" wheels (which need proprietary spokes, etc). Hope makes nice hubs (consider the Bulb instead so you can migrate to a 20mm front some day). You should come in waaaay below $600 for a Hope Bulb/DP25/Wheelsmith butted/brass nipple build through Larry at mountain high cyclery. Do NOT get alloy nipples. I prefer Wheelsmith spokes (my personal bias- busted a few DTs but never a WS).
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_
    Either Dave's Speed Dream wheelset of Oddsandendos wheelset by Mike Garcia. Mavic Crossmax XLs, if you're ok with factory wheelset. Otherwise pick and choose parts. Jenson will build you a wheel when you choose all the parts, I believe, for free. A bike shop will be ~$30 a wheel to build, so ~$540 for the parts. If this was a year ago, I would say King hubs, but that's impossible now, unless you find a used set. Hadley or Hope Bulbs. New Hopes look good too. DT 240s are great hubs as well. Sounds like you have your rims. Go with Sapim Race spokes (from Thorusa.com) or butted spokes by DT or wheelsmith. Nipps are pocket change. Alloy ones are lighter. Silver spokes are lighter too as black spokes are painted silver spokes.

    _MK

    I have "talked" to both of these builders and their reputations are well established in the industry. Mike can have a set of Arrow XCL's with new Hadleys delivered to your door around $525 (priced this spring). If you go with Hopes the price goes down significantly. If you do not have the experience or expertise in wheelbuilding, they normally can build you a wheel cheaper than you can get the parts on your own.

    Nate
    Paco the "Flyin' Finn"

  28. #28
    Roy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paco Finn
    I have "talked" to both of these builders and their reputations are well established in the industry. Mike can have a set of Arrow XCL's with new Hadleys delivered to your door around $525 (priced this spring). If you go with Hopes the price goes down significantly. If you do not have the experience or expertise in wheelbuilding, they normally can build you a wheel cheaper than you can get the parts on your own.
    Man, I feel like I'm Paco's stalker. I echo (again) what PF mentions above. I had Mike build my Hope/Arrows and I forget the price but I'm thinking it was under $400 ($350'ish but I need to check my receipt). The more I ride the Hope Bulb's, the more they impress me (dollar/performance). If I were going all out, the Hadley's would be my recommendation and that price seems right from my prior chat's with Mike.

    Note, Mike can build the wheels with most of the other rims mentioned in this thread as well. I'd pick his brain for the pros/cons of each rim from his perspective as well.

  29. #29
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    Why not brass?

    Sorry for the duplicate post; stupid server time outs.
    Last edited by Clyde S Dale; 08-10-2005 at 01:09 PM.


  30. #30
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    Why not alloy?

    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    Do NOT get alloy nipples.
    At the risk of developing a reputation for overlooking important details on this forum (like my post about travel on the 'Spot), why not get alloy nipples for trail riding?

    I can see going with brass if one has a reputation for smacking wheels out of true or if one is into stunts and big drops. The durability of brass threads will beat alloy everytime for repeated truing. I've had both and it seems to me some this comes down to the quality of the wheel build and the style of the rider ("finesse" vs "ham fisted," for lack of better terms.)

    Since the original poster didn't wan't an "anchor" and alloy is much lighter maybe alloy would suit him?
    Last edited by Clyde S Dale; 08-10-2005 at 01:38 PM.


  31. #31
    No, that's not phonetic
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    There are places to save weight, and places not to imo. I also have had a few wheelsets built with alloy nips, but I find if I have the wheels for more than, say, 3 years of use, I end up needing to replace nipples one at a time due to them rounding off where the wrench grabs or simply shearing. I can't remember what brass weighs over alloy, but it's like 25g per wheel or something. Just run brass and get a lighter tube. I still have some light wheels built with alloy, but I would only mate alloy with applications calling for 400-450g rims. Once you are running a rim in the 500g+ range, I personally consider myself to be out of alloy nipple territory.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_
    Where did you come up with that number?

    _MK
    C'mon _MK....easy....420 grams = (actual weight of rim w/ nipple adapters) - (~90 grams)

  33. #33
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    C'mon _MK....easy....420 grams = (actual weight of rim w/ nipple adapters) - (~90 grams)
    I think you mean 520, right? 717s weight a bit over 400g. 819s are advertised at 465g and then you add the nip retainers to that.

    _MK

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_
    I think you mean 520, right? 717s weight a bit over 400g. 819s are advertised at 465g and then you add the nip retainers to that.

    _MK
    yep...about 510 grams is my understanding as well.....when you add nipple adapters.

    i was just being a smart asss to fedexil's post.....sorry fedexil

  35. #35
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    Current wheeset: mavic F519 rims on DT/hugi hubs. To echo Tscheezy, cheap, durable rims. I abuse them, and they've stayed true and round.
    New wheelset: Larry M. is putting the finishing touches on my new wheels as we speak. Mavic 819's laced to GOLD colored [extra pimp factor] hadley hubs, 10 mm thru axle rear, 20mm front. I will not run ust tires just yet.
    My DH set: front, mavic D321 ceramic finish laced to a sunnrace hub, rear, D521 ceramic finish laced to a way to heavy P.O.S ringle hub.

  36. #36
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    I can't remember what brass weighs over alloy, but it's like 25g per wheel or something. Just run brass and get a lighter tube.
    I would definatelly not condone that advice. Running lighter tubes is one of the most frustrating things one can do. It is what got me involved in the whole UST mess.

    You should get the Arrow Racing XCL rims, at 496g so that you are still kosher using alloy nipples

    I will agree that brass is stronger than alloy nips, and I would have never even attempted to build a wheel with alloy nips, but it so happened that when I was putting on a DUC and had to build a wheel for it, I had access to free nipples which turned out to be black alloy ones. I figured what the heck and went ahaead and built them up. No problems. No rounding, no braking. Sure, I've only ridden that for a few weeks, but the wheels seems as good as any other I built, so far.

    _MK

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by slomoking
    XM321: Inexpensive and take a beating.
    ditto.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by locorum
    I'm building up a new wheelset. My X317 Discs are too narrow for larger volume tires while using Stan's no-Tubes. I can't even get a Conti 2.3 to stay on the bead.
    I weigh around 190lbs in riding gear and do all tech trail type stuff with drops up to 3-4' (but not offten)
    What are people using? I want somthing strong without it being an anchor.
    Velocity Aeroheat laced to King Bling hubs, built by speed dream. Never been untrue.

    I weigh 200 lbs and ride a 5er.
    Taking it easy for all you sinners.

  39. #39
    Roy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy
    MI had Mike build my Hope/Arrows and I forget the price but I'm thinking it was under $400 ($350'ish but I need to check my receipt).
    I checked my receipt and was a ways off - the Hope/Arrows were $415 built before shipping, however the front hub was a 20mm. Great wheelset, but I'd probably pony up the other $110 and get the Hadleys - just for bling factor.

  40. #40
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    i'm 195 and have a stans olympic up front but for the rear i may want something beefier, but don't want the 819, great rim but doesn t make you any faster, if a strong XC wheel is what you want, use thicker spokes and go 2x/3x

  41. #41
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    Anyone try the new 28mm Sun SOS rim out yet? Claimed weight is 540g, for a disc only weilded rim. Sounds nice.

  42. #42
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    Xm719

    I'm using Mavic XM719s. Only just a bit heavier than the 717 but wider and stronger.
    Bascially a none UST version of the 819 (and therefore doesn't require all the weight of nipple adaptors) with a brake surface.

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