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Thread: Silence!

  1. #1
    AOK
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    Silence!

    So I finally got around to implementing the recommendation from DT and/or Kosmo to solve the suspension creak I was hearing on my Sultan.

    Wow - what a difference! Complete silence from the frame. I don't think I truly appreciated how much creaking was going on until I went on a completely silent ride yesterday. It was very nice and made me remember one of the things I liked about my old XCE - hardly any frame noise, just a nice solid ride.

    Anyone have longer term data on this fix? Am I good for a while, or will I be periodically taking everything apart and re-applying anti-sieze goo?

  2. #2
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    I have had better luck with a Wurth high pressure grease, it is really thick stuff.
    still, it only goes so long.

  3. #3
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    actually i had no luck at all with the anti-seize. i took the bottom link apart and actually found that there was already anti-seize installed by Turner. i re-applied more and reassembled and it didn't do crap. still creaks like crazy. it really frustrating cause i can only "block it out" for so long before it starts driving me crazy. don't know where to go from here, maybe i'll try the thick grease thing.

  4. #4
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    I agree that the anti-seize didn't do a thing for my Sultan. I've torn it apart a few times now. Whenever I stand and crank, it protests loudly. Still waiting for a better recommendation.

  5. #5
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    i remember DT mentioning something in a previous thread about changing the tolerances of the lower link hex-lock system to fit together tighter and making the links available to people with existing DW bikes. i wonder how that is going...

  6. #6
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    WHAT!? I was very disappointed when upon opening this thread, the title " Silence," wasn't followed by " I keel you!"
    I like bikes.

  7. #7
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    The anti-seize fixed the creaking on my Sultan, for about 100 miles, now the creak is back. I haven't decided to do it again or wait for DT to come up with a fix.

  8. #8
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    piercing parts

    Greg has been drilling an eighth inch (3mm) hole thru one side of the shafts to get some grease to flow around the hex contact points. It's working very well. Seems that more lube is good for mating parts. After drilling the hole Greg recomends that you pre-fill the hole thru the center with grease, assemble the linkage and then tighten it up. Finish up by topping off the pivots with grease thru the fittings.

    Happy trails,

    DT

  9. #9
    AOK
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    DT - can you get us some pics of exactly where Greg is drilling? I think I understand, but a pic would be nice.

  10. #10
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    Anti-seize has worked so far just hope it stays that way!

  11. #11
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    I guess I'll give it a try. Makes sense that the hole would allow the grease that's already in the pivot into the hex to keep lubicated. Here's what I did.

    Remove the lower links and slide out the pivot shafts.


    Place shaft in clamp or vise to hold. I'm using a sight removal tool that's used to remove/install sights on handguns. It has nylon inserts that will not harm what your holding.


    Use a punch to tap the hole


    Drill the hole with a 3mm drill bit (mine was actually 2.77mm)


    Use a small file and de-bur the hole. I used a flat file as well a small round file, for the inside of the hole. Then use a small round cleaning brush to remove anything inside the shaft.


    Finished and ready to fill with grease and re-install. Repeat on the other shaft.


    Fill with grease, coat the outside with grease and intstall. Torque bolts to spec and re-fill the pivot via the zerk.

    I thought about drilling more toward the end where the hole would be directly inline with the hex keys on the plates, but then you would have to deal with the bushing, so I put them in the middle. I guess we'll see how this works, fingers crossed.

  12. #12
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    Willing Beta Tester

    I've been a willing tester on the hole in the middle solution. Nearly 20 hours so far, and no noise. Totally silent. Cruz's pix are perfect. The only thing I did different was that I used a 2 mm hole.

    More grease appears to be good!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  13. #13
    AOK
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruzthepug
    Fill with grease, coat the outside with grease and intstall. Torque bolts to spec and re-fill the pivot via the zerk.
    Are you filling the entire shaft with grease? The usual Prep-M, or something heavier?

  14. #14
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    Bel Ray

    I used Bel Ray motorcycle grease for the initial fill, and will top off as necessary with M-Prep through the zerks.

    Fingers crossed!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  15. #15
    Daniel the Dog
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    Wow

    You spent 2.4k and this has to be done to quiet it? Hmm.

    Jaybo

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    Grooves

    Seems like a good idea, I'm gonna try it. I think I'm gonna drill the hole into the groove though instead of between them, it should allow the grease to have a little better access to it.

  17. #17
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    Any chance that Turner Bikes could send out some drilled pivot shafts (properly done by Greg) to owners who need them?

    I am worried about doing this myself (to a degree...) and would like to have the peace of mind that the pivot shafts were perfectly and precisionally done by the manufacturer. Plus...if I screw this up, where does my warranty stand?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe
    Any chance that Turner Bikes could send out some drilled pivot shafts (properly done by Greg) to owners who need them?

    I am worried about doing this myself (to a degree...) and would like to have the peace of mind that the pivot shafts were perfectly and precisionally done by the manufacturer. Plus...if I screw this up, where does my warranty stand?

    Yep, me too.

  19. #19
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    DT's new trick seems to be working. i drilled the holes exactly as cruzthepug did execpt i centered the hole over the goove since this is a pathway for the grease. filled the hex holes with PrepM and topped it off with the zerks. took it out for a test ride today and it is DEAD silent. trying to figure out a way to loctite the links together as i cant really loctite the bolt threads before i shove them thru the grease. maybe if i put loctite into the threads of the drive-side link before i put them together? will the grease accumulated on the bolt threads after shoving them thru a grease-filled shaft render the loctite useless?

  20. #20
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    I used Loctite Titen for screws three months ago to fix the problem and I have not heard any noise!
    Last edited by JTBAZ; 08-17-2009 at 08:20 AM.

  21. #21
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    Loctite/Grease

    I wondered about the loctite/grease issue, also. I just reassembled without loctite, and assumed that I'd have to retorque the bolts a few times, but they have stayed tight so far, even without the loctite. At least they're really easy to check.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  22. #22
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    Lube is good

    Thanks Cruz for posting the shots! Good point about de-burring the holes. We do nothing different ourselves, or maybe sometimes the hole ends up in the groove, don't matter. Couple layers of cardboard will also work to protect the shafts when clamped in a basic vice and as Kosmo and Cruz have shown, any smallish hole works.

    Silent, I will gladly send you a new shaft or 2 if you screw up drilling the holes, I will want the maimed shafts back for warranty though, as I can't imagine how anything could go wrong after following the excellent how too posted by Cruz.

    LocTite would be worthless if it gets coated with grease, but as Kosmo is learning, this system that does not use the bolts to keep things from twisting also does not need Loc Tite as the bolts are not fighting the links from twisting, and I put the heads on the left side when I did the re design so that it is easy to check them. I heard too many times over the previous 15 years that riders did not want to remove the crank to put a wrench on the pivots. I used to rat tail file a notch in the inside radius of my 5 Spot middle chainring so I could put a allen or Torx key on the right side bolt to check for proper torque.

  23. #23
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    The good, the bad and the ugly

    It’s a triple edged sword having DT provide solutions to frame squeaks over the Turner forum.
    • The good: No other manufacturer appears to be as willing to step up and admit there’s a problem as DT. Most would prefer to ignore it or BS their way around it. Even providing a ‘technical’ solution over the forum is highly commendable.
    • The bad: It’s an expensive frame and people expect it to be perfect.
    • The ugly: So many people are looking to ‘make their mark’ (think of dogs cocking their legs) in some e-communication showing how perceptive and intelligent they are while criticizing a problem – this is a huge disincentive for DT and crew to address problems and speaks even more highly to DT’s standards on integrity.

    For many it’s ‘cool’ to be negative and diss on others instead of speaking up and drawing attention to positives. I personally place a huge value on integrity and trustworthiness – Dave Turner has both. He gets my money.

  24. #24
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    I agree. I love my Sultan enough that the creak is only a small annoyance. I posted here knowing that the problem will get addressed and it has been. As soon as I get back to my bike (two more weeks) I'll be making an attempt at drilling the holes. I have neither a clamp or drill bits capable of making holes in metal but I'll find a way. I am glad to hear that this issue should be coming to an end. Thanks DT and others.

  25. #25
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    This is interesting , but with just normal routine maintenance that includes giving all the zerks a shot of prep M..........I'm not having the chronic creaking problem ! Been riding my DW Sultan regularly for the last few months with no issues......though I'm glad to hear there is a fix that seems to help if the issue does occur ! Thanks for sharing the information ! TIG.

  26. #26
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    2010 Sultan

    I really like my 2007 v1 and Interested in a v2. Any chance of the new frames having the mod performed prior to leaving Turner?

    I rode with a guy the other night and his v2 was making all kinds of crazy noises.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeZee
    I really like my 2007 v1 and Interested in a v2. Any chance of the new frames having the mod performed prior to leaving Turner?

    I rode with a guy the other night and his v2 was making all kinds of crazy noises.
    I spoke to DT last week and he confirmed that new frames going out the door have already had this "mod" done.

  28. #28
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled
    I spoke to DT last week and he confirmed that new frames going out the door have already had this "mod" done.
    Good news

  29. #29
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    As an owner of a specialized stumpjumper looking for a new bike, the response and help from Dave Turner is drawing me toward Turner bikes regardless of cost. Where else can you chat to the top man and get help advice and tips. Cant see specialized or any other large manufacturer taking the time to help like this. I value this kind of customer care extremly high in this day and age where corporations are faceless.

    My money's going on a Turner.........just need to decide whether its ganna be a flux or spot. lol

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Engineer
    As an owner of a specialized stumpjumper looking for a new bike, the response and help from Dave Turner is drawing me toward Turner bikes regardless of cost. Where else can you chat to the top man and get help advice and tips. Cant see specialized or any other large manufacturer taking the time to help like this. I value this kind of customer care extremly high in this day and age where corporations are faceless.

    My money's going on a Turner.........just need to decide whether its ganna be a flux or spot. lol
    Get the spot haha

    As for the larger manufacturers I contacted Trek direct by email and was pritty much bombed off and was told to see the dealer - Keep up the superb customer relations DT

  31. #31
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    I pulled the pivot shafts yesterday and did a crazy lube job on them. I didn't drill the hole since I lack the right equipment ( ) but it seems to have done the trick. The only problem I have now is it's so quiet I can hear a new creak, this one doesn't seem to be frame related so I can handle it. Thanks for all the advice.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by StevieC
    Get the spot haha

    As for the larger manufacturers I contacted Trek direct by email and was pritty much bombed off and was told to see the dealer - Keep up the superb customer relations DT
    Same response I got from Santa Cruz... surprisingly. I like the Turner philosophy of staying close to customers to get first hand experience of customer delight.

  33. #33
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    So far the fix has not worked for me. Still getting the creak. Haven't given up yet, still trying to find the right grease. First try was with PrepM, no go. Second I tried some waterproof marine grease I picked up at the auto parts store, no go. Next I tried just plain Park tool grease, no go. I now have Slick Honey in there and will give it a shot tomorrow. I know it can run quiet because it did with the anti-seize, just didn't last very long. Not sure, but I'm thinking the thicker the grease the better.

    Stay tuned....

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by cruzthepug
    So far the fix has not worked for me. Still getting the creak. Haven't given up yet, still trying to find the right grease. First try was with PrepM, no go. Second I tried some waterproof marine grease I picked up at the auto parts store, no go. Next I tried just plain Park tool grease, no go. I now have Slick Honey in there and will give it a shot tomorrow. I know it can run quiet because it did with the anti-seize, just didn't last very long. Not sure, but I'm thinking the thicker the grease the better.

    Stay tuned....
    Are you 100% sure it's the pivots? I've had a very intermittent creak on my DWSpot, would be silent then all of the sudden on the next ride it would creak. Finally started to connect the creak would coincide with my removing the rear wheel. Turns out the creak was coming from the rear dropout and would creak if the wheel was not extremely tight. Been running a DT RWS for about 3 weeks which I can crank even tighter and the noise is gone. If I loosen the skewer slightly, the creak comes back, tighten and it's gone.

    Try a light coat of grease on the flats of your dropouts...

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdlhrd
    Are you 100% sure it's the pivots? I've had a very intermittent creak on my DWSpot, would be silent then all of the sudden on the next ride it would creak. Finally started to connect the creak would coincide with my removing the rear wheel. Turns out the creak was coming from the rear dropout and would creak if the wheel was not extremely tight. Been running a DT RWS for about 3 weeks which I can crank even tighter and the noise is gone. If I loosen the skewer slightly, the creak comes back, tighten and it's gone.

    Try a light coat of grease on the flats of your dropouts...

    Good advice.

    I haven't had any creaks from my pivots (yet), but have noticed more drivetrain related creaks and clicks than on my previous Turners. I've narrowed it down to the cassette/hub interface and/or the dropouts at this point.

  36. #36
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    My Sultan is now quiet! Got some modified spindles from Greg (Turner), packed them full of grease and that did the trick. I also had a noisy rear dropout, some grease also shut that ***** the hell up.

    Now I can sneak up on a flee on a rabbit's ass. But why would I do that?

  37. #37
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    Is there a thread on how to break down and service the pivots along with torque settings?

  38. #38
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    Hi Guys,
    Ive just found my frame is creaking after two months of some wet weather in the UK. Ive contacted Greg at Turner for a new set of pre drilled pivots but was after some advice (and if poss some pictures) of how to break down and service the pivots wih torque settings.

    Thanks
    TE

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    We the people ...

    Quote Originally Posted by CrashTheDOG
    Is there a thread on how to break down and service the pivots along with torque settings?

    Quote Originally Posted by The Engineer
    Hi Guys,
    Ive just found my frame is creaking after two months of some wet weather in the UK. Ive contacted Greg at Turner for a new set of pre drilled pivots but was after some advice (and if poss some pictures) of how to break down and service the pivots wih torque settings.

    Thanks
    TE
    Hopefully this is what you after, its a pictorial step by step guide (with torque settings)



    http://www.turnerbikes.com/010/010te...h_bushingM.pdf



    Turner Tech page


    http://www.turnerbikes.com/010/010tech.html



    "Silence i keeel you"


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uwOL4rB-go



    .
    Last edited by wpuk; 11-08-2009 at 08:46 AM.

  40. #40
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    Just a quick update that mine continues to be silent with this treatment, since August when I first drilled the holes and packed it with Bel Ray grease. Just been topping off with M-Prep through the zerks every month since then.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  41. #41
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    Thanks WPUK & KOSMO. Will put this into practice when I get the drilled pivots shipped over.

    TE

  42. #42
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    Hi, guys, ive been riding with the drilled shafts for just over 2 months now and the damn creaking has come back.

    Ive been using prep m grease and have been topping off every month (although have noticed not all of the zerts accept grease, could this be my problem..............?

  43. #43
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    Did you pack the inside of the pivot shaft with a heavy grease after you drilled the holes? I used about 5 parts aluminum based trailer bearing grease to 1 part anti-seize and my pivots have been quiet since. I haven't actually had to re-lube them yet.

    You might also have a problem zerk as you have suggested. Keep us posted about how you get things quiet again.
    {Principal Skinner} Hmm. Whoever did this is in very deep trouble.
    {Martin} And a sloppy speller too. The preferred spelling of 'wiener' is w - i - e - n - e - r, although 'e - i' is an acceptable ethnic variant.

  44. #44
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    My Niner RIP 9

    Is silent and I didn't have to do a thing Sorry guys but had to jab you yet again

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo
    Is silent and I didn't have to do a thing Sorry guys but had to jab you yet again
    somehow i picture you getting jabbed a lot , but i think you're usually on your knees with your a$$ in the air

  46. #46
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    I packed the pivot shaft with M prep only and lubed the shaft before pushing it back in. Do you think I should try a different grease?

    Where would I get an aluminium trailer bearing based grase from? has it got a brand name?

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybo
    Is silent and I didn't have to do a thing Sorry guys but had to jab you yet again
    Why are you posting?

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=574568

  48. #48
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    I think if you've manually packed the shaft, get out and give it a blast, if all is quiet, replace your grease zerks

  49. #49
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    Has anyone had a problem with the pivots (left & right) where seatstay meets the top rocker creaking? I did the lower link on my Sultan, and it was quiet for the first mile I was riding. But then it's steadily gotten louder again. I didn't change out the pivot shafts on the SS pivots, and was thinking that may be the culprit now.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Engineer
    I packed the pivot shaft with M prep only and lubed the shaft before pushing it back in. Do you think I should try a different grease?

    Where would I get an aluminium trailer bearing based grase from? has it got a brand name?
    The stuff I used was purchased in an auto parts store. It says Sta-Lube on the container. It's blue and very tacky. I think Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease is virtually the same thing.
    {Principal Skinner} Hmm. Whoever did this is in very deep trouble.
    {Martin} And a sloppy speller too. The preferred spelling of 'wiener' is w - i - e - n - e - r, although 'e - i' is an acceptable ethnic variant.

  51. #51
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    Cheers guys will try it out this Thrusday night and see. If no good after the manual pack will try BTW's advice and try some different grease. Will keep you updated

  52. #52
    not so super...
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    mine still goes squeek, squeek, squeek
    Nothing to see here.

  53. #53
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    I wonder if there was a consensus or time range to when these noises started popping up.

    Mine is silent still, but it has been quite still for the last month due to poor trail conditions.

  54. #54
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    So, I was just doing this little mod, and I had both pivot shafts out. No problem drilling a little hole and reinstalling.

    Thing that confused me. The two pivot shafts have different depth of grease spiral in them. On one the spiral is deeper/bigger, and the other the spiral is shallower??

    Is this normal and as I did not notice this until I had the pivots out, which one should be in which hole (09 DW 5 Spot)?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Silence!-pivot-shaft.jpg  


  55. #55
    not so super...
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSINGA
    mine still goes squeek, squeek, squeek

    I think my squeak was the upper shock bushing/reducers. They were very worn after 10-11 months of use.
    Nothing to see here.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdlhrd
    Are you 100% sure it's the pivots? I've had a very intermittent creak on my DWSpot, would be silent then all of the sudden on the next ride it would creak. Finally started to connect the creak would coincide with my removing the rear wheel. Turns out the creak was coming from the rear dropout and would creak if the wheel was not extremely tight. Been running a DT RWS for about 3 weeks which I can crank even tighter and the noise is gone. If I loosen the skewer slightly, the creak comes back, tighten and it's gone.

    Try a light coat of grease on the flats of your dropouts...
    This was brilliant. Turns out my rear dropout was the culprit. Cleaned, lubed... silent.
    "Check out dude."
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  57. #57
    not so super...
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    Squeak is back......again. I think it's worse now than ever.
    Nothing to see here.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSINGA
    Squeak is back......again. I think it's worse now than ever.

    Suffering from DW Fever!

    is the squeak caused by dw fever??

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSINGA
    Squeak is back......again. I think it's worse now than ever.
    Mine never quit, got some better but never silent. I pulled everything apart again last weekend cranks, bb, pivots everything. Re-greased everything and still squeaks, possibly worse than before. Good thing I'm used to it now and it don't bother me anymore

  60. #60
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    Lots of moving parts and interfaces on a bike ....

    Quote Originally Posted by MrMountainHop
    This was brilliant. Turns out my rear dropout was the culprit. Cleaned, lubed... silent.
    I was trying to pinpoint the source of a creak that was happening under out of the saddle pedal loads. I greased all the zerks, still there. Lubed the crank/BB interface, still there. Lubed the pedal/crank interface, still there.

    I couldn't figure it out but there was a bunch of talk on the forum regarding the pivots being the culprit so I took it up to Turner for a closer look. Willie took apart the pivots and replaced the bushings only to find out that they were fine and then started taking stuff off left and right. Pedals, cranks, BB, etc. After a long while he found the culprit - THE STEEL PEDAL INSERTS IN THE CRANK ARMS!! The DW linkage was fine, it was my 3 year old gravity light FSA cranks that were creating all the unwanted noises.

    Unfortunately, it can be part of a long methodical process to pinpoint these noises ...

    S

  61. #61
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    Take off the RD hanger and grease the faces then bolt it back together tight. I found this took care of the residual creaking in mine.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdlhrd
    Finally started to connect the creak would coincide with my removing the rear wheel. Turns out the creak was coming from the rear dropout and would creak if the wheel was not extremely tight.
    After greasing the hexlocs and eventually doing the mod shown above to the pivots, the only creak I ever get from my Sultan is from the rear dropout. I am running DT RWS thru-bolt skewers and I have to periodically tighten the rear. This is not a big deal, but I have not had to do this on any other frames with the same wheel/skewer combo.

    After about 18 months, I still like the DW Sultan better than any other FS bike I have owned.

  63. #63
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    That worked for me too, at least so far so good. Removed the rear mech hanger, cleaned the mating faces & then covered them in copper slip anti-seize - result! (so far)

  64. #64
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    Let me know how yours works out Dickie. I used anti-seize on mine and it didn't last longer than 3 months before the creak came back.

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    Would a composite rear derailleur hanger, instead of what I believe is aluminum, solve this creaking problem for good? I've had to grease mine a few times recently to silence my 09 Sultan. I didn't have any creaking whatsoever for the first 6 months of riding and the suspension doesn't make any noise at all. Still rides better than any mtnbike I've ever owned though.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideon View Post
    Would a composite rear derailleur hanger, instead of what I believe is aluminum, solve this creaking problem for good?...
    What?

    --sParty
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  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    What?

    --sParty
    Never had a replaceable derailleur hanger cause squeaking. Never had an aluminum hanger before this Sultan. My Titus's/Pivots were made from a hard plastic or composite of some type and never caused any issues. The DW Sultan is in another league ridewise than any Titus that I owned, but I do want the squeaking to stop.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideon View Post
    Never had a replaceable derailleur hanger cause squeaking. Never had an aluminum hanger before this Sultan. My Titus's/Pivots were made from a hard plastic or composite of some type and never caused any issues. The DW Sultan is in another league ridewise than any Titus that I owned, but I do want the squeaking to stop.
    Huh. I've never owned a bicycle with anything but a metal rear der hanger. I just can't imagine it making a squeak, regardless. Maybe put a thin layer of grease on it where it contacts the frame? I used blue loctite on the two little screws that fasten it. No squeaks here. Good luck.

    --sParty
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    Help

    Hi Guys, I own a 2012 5 spot and just on my 4th ride, it produced a creaking sound on the downstroke especially when I MASH it and when I pedal OUT of the saddle (Right side).. After reading this forum, many have solved this issue by drilling a hole and re-greasing.. My question is, are the 2012's already equipped with the drilled pivot shafts??? On the other hand, I think my bottom bracket is also part of this issue. I am using a 2011 XT bottom bracket which came from my old bike so I think I would need to buy a new one as well. I hope DT could read this and answer my inquiry. I still love the bike!!

    P.S. The bike does not creak/squeak when I bomb the shock Up and Down (not pedalling of course)


    Cheers!
    Last edited by LGavin; 05-23-2012 at 04:37 AM.

  70. #70
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    Grease your derailleur hanger where it contacts the frame. Since your bike is new, I would check this first.

    Also, the drilled pivot shafts did not truly fix the problem. Correct tolerances for the hex lock pivot shaft ends did correct the problem.

  71. #71
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    @wheatgerm- How do you determine the "CORRECT TOLERANCE FOR THE HEX LOCK PIVOT SHAFT ENDS?"

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by LGavin View Post
    @wheatgerm- How do you determine the "CORRECT TOLERANCE FOR THE HEX LOCK PIVOT SHAFT ENDS?"
    Apparently Turner changed the tolerances, probably in 2010. Your 2012 should be fine in that regard. It'd probably still squeak if the hex lock interfaces were dry. But as I said in the other thread, check them, and as wheatgerm says, check the more common stuff first.
    (seatpost, derailleur hanger, cranks, BB, pedals, seat...)
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  73. #73
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    So i finally followed wheatgerms advice. I greased the derailleur hanger that contacts the frame and now the creaking is gone? Its nice but how the *** does that piece of aluminum squeak that loud?? FYI, 2012s derailleur hangers are already different from the previous ones as ours comes with the 12mm thread for the maxles...

  74. #74
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    Glad you got it worked out.

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    @wheatgerm- yah thanks wheatgerm.Had a very silent ride today. Question is, would this creaking ever come back? Once the grease ran out?

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by LGavin View Post
    @wheatgerm- yah thanks wheatgerm.Had a very silent ride today. Question is, would this creaking ever come back? Once the grease ran out?
    I have to re-grease mine maybe once or twice per year. If you ride often in wet conditions or wash your bike often, you may have to do it more.

  77. #77
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    Derailleur hanger here. That made it quiet enough that I could hear the seatpost clamp creaking. I'm down to one or two small creaks now. Thanks for the heads up on the hanger. Never would have thought of that.

  78. #78
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    I also had some creaking on my '11 Sultan. Went away after I put some copper grease on both the hex lock shafts.

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