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  1. #1
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    Servicing Czar Suspension

    Have a Czar 1.0. Even though I lube the zerk fittings every couple of months, I noticed that when I remove the shock from the frame the swing arm sticks quite a bit.

    If any of you have run into this, what did you do to make it move more freely ?

    If I have to remove the bolts, is there any other tools I need besides a set of torx and a torque wrench ? Any other tips ?

    If you sanded down the journal bushings what specifically did you use ?

    And lastly... did it really make a difference ?
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  2. #2
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    I've never owned a czar, but I have owned several [aluminum] Turner frames, all of which use(d) journal bearings and all of which exhibited what seemed like too much friction while cycling through the suspension without a shock attached.

    Turner's position on this (historically anyway) has been that this "stiction" is meaningless in the real world. That the weight of the rider coupled with the leverage ratio of frame easily overcome the stiction that you feel while the frame is in a stand.

    Sorry if this doesn't help, but you might be trying to solve a problem that doesn't need solving.

    Regardless, there are minimal tools required for servicing. A couple of Torx bits, a couple of Allen keys and a torque wrench about covers it


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  3. #3
    EC3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridetheridge View Post
    Have a Czar 1.0. Even though I lube the zerk fittings every couple of months, I noticed that when I remove the shock from the frame the swing arm sticks quite a bit.

    If any of you have run into this, what did you do to make it move more freely ?

    If I have to remove the bolts, is there any other tools I need besides a set of torx and a torque wrench ? Any other tips ?

    If you sanded down the journal bushings what specifically did you use ?

    And lastly... did it really make a difference ?
    Sounds tight to me, which is good. You don't want play when you grab both arms and try to twist it. Pull one rocker off and detach the other from the rear triangle leaving the shaft on one rocker. Slide the shaft out by pulling on the rocker and clean all the grease off so you can look at all the surfaces. If all looks good and fits tight, regrease and retorque. Journals are super easy to work on, you can't really hurt them just taking them apart. Just be careful if you replace the bushes, they can break.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC3 View Post
    Pull one rocker off and detach the other from the rear triangle leaving the shaft on one rocker. Slide the shaft out by pulling on the rocker and clean all the grease off so you can look at all the surfaces.
    Do you mean remove both clevis bolts, until it's just sitting on the main pivot bolt ? Then slide the main bolt out ? What about the dw link bolts ?
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  5. #5
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    My suspension always moved freely on my RFX, 6pack and Highline, but at first or with new bushings it would be inherently tighter. One thing to realize is that these things are under a decent amount of leverage, meaning that this issue would be exaggerated with a very low leverage bike like some Foes and then there might be a loss of sensitivity and the higher the leverage, the less of an issue this is. There is mechanical advantage you aren't feeling when you cycle it by hand.

    I'd say a few pounds of resistance is no issue. If this is the case, maybe invest in some of the RWC needle-bearing shock bearing kits.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  6. #6
    EC3
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    Sorry I didn't explain that very well and I'm coming from a Sultan so my bolts might be different.
    Yes take both clevis bolts off and the shock bolt too. Now your main pivot is isolated and you can work it to see if its sticking. I think your rocker is threaded on one side so obviously when you take the bolt out both rockers detach. Push the exposed shaft end with your finger or lightly tap w/ a 6mm allen and have a look. Cycle the dw-link to see if its sticking or maybe even loose.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC3 View Post
    Sorry I didn't explain that very well and I'm coming from a Sultan so my bolts might be different.
    Yes take both clevis bolts off and the shock bolt too. Now your main pivot is isolated and you can work it to see if its sticking. I think your rocker is threaded on one side so obviously when you take the bolt out both rockers detach. Push the exposed shaft end with your finger or lightly tap w/ a 6mm allen and have a look. Cycle the dw-link to see if its sticking or maybe even loose.
    Makes sense. Thanks.
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