Hamfisted mechanic strikes again (Hope Pro II help needed)

[skunkty14]

So I decided that since all the Homers are converting their XC RFXs to 10mm DT RWS skewers I probably should keep up with the Joneses. In the process of re-assembly following Jerk_Chicken's rebuild guide I managed to punch out and mangle the non-drive side o-ring (part number 15 in the diagram displayed in this post).

My question to you oh mighty homers; can I order this o-ring and/or a rebuild kit without the endcaps? Or if I do, any leads on said o-ring/seal? I would really like to place an overnight order tomorrow morning so I'm not RFXless this weekend

edit: correct part number listed thanks to dualdirtman

[AzSpeedfreek]

My best reccomendation to you is to call Hope directly tomorow morning and see what they can do.

[Jerk_Chicken]

I would go to a hardware store and find an o-ring to fit in there. I have not pulled this out myself, though I have seen what it looks like only on the spacer itself. I remember thinking how tough it looked to remove

That o-ring is really only there to simply seal against the axle and make a tighter fit. While it's a crucial piece for the fitment it serves to create a vacuum against the axle, which makes it so hard to remove.

So I would simply look for an o-ring and see if it fits. It's nothing special, I assume, so I would just try the o-ring. Grease it into place.

[Jerk_Chicken]

I would go to a hardware store and find an o-ring to fit in there. I have not pulled this out myself, though I have seen what it looks like only on the spacer itself. I remember thinking how tough it looked to remove

That o-ring is really only there to simply seal against the axle and make a tighter fit. While it's a crucial piece for the fitment it serves to create a vacuum against the axle, which makes it so hard to remove.

So I would simply look for an o-ring and see if it fits. It's nothing special, I assume, so I would just try the o-ring. Grease it into place.

[skunkty14]

Speedfreak I was thinking the same thing if I don't/didn't have any luck locating the parts online this evening.

Jerk_Chick, I think I'm going to do look around tomorrow if possible to find something to jury rig the hub for the short term. The o-ring in the hub isn't simply just a rubber ring; it a metal wrapped in a hard rubber, with small grooves around the outside to help it grip inside the hub shell (which I successfully overcame). The inside face has a larger groove in it, I assume to hold grease against the bearing. I didn't actually damage the rubber, I bent the metal inside so it no longer fits inside the hub and can't seem to bent it back enough to fit properly.

[Jerk_Chicken]

I'm trying to locate my take-offs, but unfortunately I can not. It looks like I left them at home. Until then, we might have to rely on Crisillo, who may have the parts handy, as he did the same conversion as myself.

I'm also having a bit of trouble understanding the situation- you're converting to 10mm rws and the adapters for the TA are damaged or the old QR's?

[skunkty14]

I'm also having a bit of trouble understanding the situation- you're converting to 10mm rws and the adapters for the TA are damaged or the old QR's?

Sorry for the confusion. Neither of the adapters are damaged; the o-ring the sits beneath the adapter on the non-drive side was punched out and damaged. I think the pictures below might help explain better than my words.

Damaged o-ring

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/teusden/HubProblem/photo#5132523519364535682"><img src="https://lh4.google.com/teusden/Rzpi8pUPlYI/AAAAAAAAAMs/FwIFTpNZSyY/s400/IMG_1819.JPG" /></a>

Sorry lousy focus

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/teusden/HubProblem/photo#5132523519364535698"><img src="https://lh4.google.com/teusden/Rzpi8pUPlZI/AAAAAAAAAM0/WRScRtZUELg/s400/IMG_1821.JPG" /></a>

And this is where it belongs in the hub, against the bearing

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/teusden/HubProblem/photo#5132523523659503010"><img src="https://lh5.google.com/teusden/Rzpi85UPlaI/AAAAAAAAAM8/m-EuhXHp9WQ/s400/IMG_1823.JPG" /></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/teusden/HubProblem/photo#5132523532249437618"><img src="https://lh3.google.com/teusden/Rzpi9ZUPlbI/AAAAAAAAANE/WExw7WCHmTI/s400/IMG_1824.JPG" /></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/teusden/HubProblem/photo#5132523536544404930"><img src="https://lh4.google.com/teusden/Rzpi9pUPlcI/AAAAAAAAANM/v2qxmI68T6A/s400/IMG_1825.JPG" /></a>

[Jerk_Chicken]

Oh that! Not a big deal, but it is specific. It's doubtful you can go this route, but it's possible an engine or pump supplier would have it, but again, it's doubtful.

[skunkty14]

Oh that! Not a big deal, but it is specific. It's doubtful you can go this route, but it's possible an engine or pump supplier would have it, but again, it's doubtful.

I figured that was the case. I'm really hoping that Hope can help me out in the morning and rush this out to me. Part me wants to try and press it back in, but I'm worried I'll just create a problem I'll have to extract later.

[davep]

That is a simple stock oil seal. Commonly refered to as a 'U cup' seal. Any hydraulic/seal supplier in any city should be able to get you one if they dont have it in stock. Grab the yellow pages, and call some places with the # on the seal. If you live in a decient sized city, you sohuld be able to get one on lunch tomorrow.

[dualdirtman]

thats not part number 2 in the diagram it part number
15

its 1.99 gbp
http://chainreactioncycles.com/Model...?ModelID=18782

i'm sure you can get it in any good bike shop in the US

[skunkty14]

thats not part number 2 in the diagram it part number
15

its 1.99 gbp
http://chainreactioncycles.com/Model...?ModelID=18782

i'm sure you can get it in any good bike shop in the US

Thanks dualdirt, good call on the correct diagram number.

While the part from chain reaction is titled correctly, it doesn't appear the same in the photo however. I'm going to call Hope this am once they open to verify and hopefully get a seal rushed to me, I'm dreading the possibility of not riding this weekend. This is what I get for parting out and selling my backup bike

[dualdirtman]

have you tried putting the seal back in place re fitting the endcap. dropping the wheel into the frame and tighten up? the seal is just rubber is it not? may end up being compressed back into place

[skunkty14]

have you tried putting the seal back in place re fitting the endcap. dropping the wheel into the frame and tighten up? the seal is just rubber is it not? may end up being compressed back into place

I did try pressing it back in without the endcap last night without luck. The seal isn't just rubber; it has a fairly stiff metal ring sealed in rubber since this seal helps keep properly load on the bearing behind it.

Luckly Hope USA hooked me up with a seal that should be here by Friday afternoon.