Results 1 to 26 of 26
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72

    2011 5spot drivetrain?

    Me again...

    Trying to figure out what drivetrain to get. I've run xtr 3x converted to 2x for years. Love the 2x so sticking with that for sure. Also love I can run a bash and know I can't with sram 2x but something i can live with for performance. Anyway, seriously considering moving to sram for this build, I hear their xo/xx stuff is amazing (yes, i know there is plenty of debate between shim/sram).

    Above said, when I rummage through the forums, I don't see really any spots set up with xx cranks and rdr. Most of them are xo or of course shim xt/xtr. I see some deals around on the xx crankset and saw that Turner suggests Q166 (not always easy to find in xx, maybe that's why?) Would Q164 work?

    I also see guys running XX 11-36 cassette with like xt set up as 2x in the front. xtr fdr and either xo rdr or xtr i think. are they using medium cage xtr rdr?

    can you split up group and run like xtr shifters and fdr with an xx rdr, cranks and bb? i don't want to f this up -- i just want a really smooth and reliable 2x that won't break the bank (i'd be getting the stuff probably used on ebay to keep price down).

    Looking for your valued opinions!

  2. #2
    MK_
    MK_ is offline
    carpe maņana
    Reputation: MK_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    7,258
    Stick to Shimano cranks. They're still the very best. Same goes for the front derailleur and cassettes.

    X.0/X.9 shifters and rear derailleur.

    Formula the Ones or R1 brakes. (RX if you're on a budget).

    _MK

    Before you diagnose yourself with depression or low self-esteem, first make sure that you are not just surrounded by a*holes

  3. #3
    It's carbon dontcha know.
    Reputation: 6thElement's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,206
    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    Stick to Shimano cranks. They're still the very best. Same goes for the front derailleur and cassettes.

    X.0/X.9 shifters and rear derailleur.
    Pretty much what I always do.

    Shimano crank, cassette, chain, FD.
    SRAM X.9 RD, triggers or X.0 grip shifters
    Rolling on 29", 650b, 8.3" and 23mm

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    why XO or X9 and not XX rdr and shifters? just curious why that's what everyone seems to do here. don't get me wrong, stoked to save the cash.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wilks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,364
    minimal weight gain for a lot more cash in XX bits - unless you are a weight weenie or pro XC racer stick with X9 or X0 shifters and rear derailleurs and go shimano on the crank and front derailleur like MK and 6th said...I think the sram and shimano cassettes are both good perosnally

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    should front dr be a bottom or top swing? pretty sure bottom but want to be 100%.

    you think i'll get chain rub or any cross problems if i go xtr double fd w/2x (26-38) and 11-36 in back? or is there a more optimal crank ring config to make sure i don't get rub or problems with chain cross?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    never mind -- it's a top pull, bottom swing.

    still curious about optimal setup for 2x crank rings driving a 11-36 though?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rockman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6,739
    Quote Originally Posted by wyolink View Post
    never mind -- it's a top pull, bottom swing.

    still curious about optimal setup for 2x crank rings driving a 11-36 though?
    E.13 ssk cranks with the 38-24 double shiftrings and a turbocharger bashguard. With bb it's less than 900 g and plenty stiff. And you have the option of going 1x10 without changing cranks.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    anyone ever run xtr shifters with an x0 rdr? i have a pair here i wouldn't mind using and would save me the cash.

    also,medium or short cage rdr for a 2x10 (11/36 and probably 24/34) setup?

    thanks

  10. #10
    ×
    Reputation: hafnz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by wyolink View Post
    anyone ever run xtr shifters with an x0 rdr? i have a pair here i wouldn't mind using and would save me the cash.

    also,medium or short cage rdr for a 2x10 (11/36 and probably 24/34) setup?

    thanks
    They're not compatible, Sram uses 1:1 actuation ratio and Shimano 2:1, which means different lengths of cable pull for each to work properly.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121

    fdr

    Quote Originally Posted by wyolink View Post
    should front dr be a bottom or top swing? pretty sure bottom but want to be 100%.

    you think i'll get chain rub or any cross problems if i go xtr double fd w/2x (26-38) and 11-36 in back? or is there a more optimal crank ring config to make sure i don't get rub or problems with chain cross?
    Hey All,
    my frame is in and I'm almost ready to start building. Purchased a new xt fdr and I'm not sure if it was a mistake or not. I'm confused with all different types, Top Pull, Dual Pull , Top Swing etc...

    Can anyone tell me if a Shimano XT FD-M786 Dual Pull \ Down Swing is one of the types that will not work at all on a 2011 5spot (mod or not)? Thanks

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    it should - i got the same one. building mine as we speak. it will most likely require mod. will update you later today or tomorrow after testing.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    Thanks wyolink

    That would be appreciated.
    Can you also tell me if you had your head tube and bottom bracket "reamed and faced" before you began building?
    Also, which headset configuration did you go with.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    351
    The FD786 is correct as long as you are running a double set up. That's what I use with X9 26/39 cranks. The d requires the 10sec mod. My next set of cranks will be XT 785 as the spider will allow a 24 granny unlike the X9. SRAM are bringing out diff front crank configs so just be aware what ratio you would like to run and don't get caught out with a 80/120bcd and have chicken legs like me.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    yes, ht and bb should be good to go from factory. just look inside ht, you should see a 'silver ring', it's smooth, this is a factory facing. the bb comes with english threads. per the warning band, just make sure you clean it out before you thread your bb in to avoid factory bead blast shrap.

    meanwhile a few quick things i'm finding:

    1. do NOT get a 400+ seat-tube for this frame. you'll just have to cut it down. the frame only allows for about 7.5 inches of sp insert. so if you want to drop and u are a tall guy (over 6ft let's say)... you may not get enough seat drop. so your only bet would be a ks or a reverb or something.

    2. i just tried to install my cranks with shimano's suggested 2.5mm spacer on the drive side. the crank shaft wasn't fully going through with the spacer in. i know dt suggests butting the spacer on the non-drive side but either way, i wasn't getting full crankshaft reach. so as of now, i'm not running with any bb spacers. we'll see how it goes. after it loosens up, i may see some horizontal crank travel so i'll keep a close eye on it.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    Thanks very much, really appreciated.
    Keep up the posts, valuable stuff!

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121

    BB Challenges

    [QUOTE=wyolink;8832340]yes, ht and bb should be good to go from factory. just look inside ht, you should see a 'silver ring', it's smooth, this is a factory facing. the bb comes with english threads. per the warning band, just make sure you clean it out before you thread your bb in to avoid factory bead blast shrap.

    wyolink,

    I hope your build is going well.
    I ran into some challenges trying to install my new Shimano BB. I pre-cleaned
    and greased as recommended. I then attempted to thread in by hand. I go so far and then it stops. I believe I'm cranking them in on the correct side, drive side (R) threads in counter clockwise and non-drive side (L) goes in clockwise. I get about 60-70 in then it stops. Hoping I haven't damaged the BB threads

    Did yours just thread in easily by hand?

    Thanks

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    well, it's really hard to say from where i'm sitting. i've typically found that bb cups thread in only so far, then you need a tool to get them the rest of the way. i've never personally seen a bottom bracket screw all the way in by hand, i would actually consider that a problem.

    my cups went in about i dunno, 60% and then i tooled them in the rest of the way -- your milage may vary.

    it's your build though, so if you have a bad feeling, you may have to take a trip down to your lbs tomorrow and have them help you out. better safe than sorry if you're unsure.

    sorry, wish i could give you a definite. maybe someone else here can?

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    No worries, that is helpful.
    As I mentioned above, they went almost 60-70% in and then they stopped, so it sounds like it's similar to yours. I didn't bother tooling them in the rest of the way because I had seen a couple of youtube videos and the guys appeared to thread them right in no problem, so I was a little concerned when mine stopped short.

    How's your progress coming, pics going to be available soon?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    This build is by far the most challenging I've had to date. Nothing is easy so far.

    My latest issue is that the cassette is somehow hanging up on the dropout after I tighten things together. I'm running I9 Enduro hub back there that I converted to a 10mm axle so I could run my DT RWS.

    If I barely finger tighten the DT, the cassette seems pretty good -- typical spin. If I tighten like I usually do (not over, not under... logical amount) -- the cassette seems to really stick. I think the dropout is pushing into the driveside axel end and the pressure is slowing the freewheel process.

    What am I doing wrong? I mean, it's obviously the right sized hub and axle for the bike. I've never seen this kind of uh... 'cassette rub' or 'dropout to axle pressure'.

    Thanks fellas!

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    Continued issues but getting very close to finishing.

    Anyone know the correct chain length (link count or whatever) for a 2011 DW Spot running a 2x10? 11-36 rear with a 26/38 in front. Medium cage.

    Took out a couple of links but running small/small yields massive amounts of droop. So if I had to guess, I'd say I need to remove at least 7 or so more links. Could this be correct? I've read about guys breaking chains on DW spots running 2x10 -- so just want to make sure I'm not making it too short.

    On big big for example, where should the rdr cage be pointing? 4 o'clock? No way 6.

    Thanks for the help as always!

  22. #22
    Kiwi that Flew
    Reputation: deanopatoni's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by wyolink View Post
    Continued issues but getting very close to finishing.

    Anyone know the correct chain length (link count or whatever) for a 2011 DW Spot running a 2x10? 11-36 rear with a 26/38 in front. Medium cage.
    I have just setup a 24/36 front with 12-36 rear by following the SRAM instructions as follows:
    Lay the chain around the big rings ie 36 and 36 in my case, pull it tight and add one additional full link to this. That is how long your chain needs to be. Rode it yesterday and all was good.




    --- deanopatoni ---

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    Quote Originally Posted by deanopatoni View Post
    I have just setup a 24/36 front with 12-36 rear by following the SRAM instructions as follows:
    Lay the chain around the big rings ie 36 and 36 in my case, pull it tight and add one additional full link to this. That is how long your chain needs to be. Rode it yesterday and all was good.




    --- deanopatoni ---
    Good info.
    Which chain did you guys purchase for your builds

    Thanks in advance
    Happy Holidays

  24. #24
    Kiwi that Flew
    Reputation: deanopatoni's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Good info.
    Which chain did you guys purchase for your builds

    Thanks in advance
    Happy Holidays
    Glade to help. Here is a video from SRAM showing the same procedure SRAM Chain Sizing - YouTube

    I bought a SRAM PC1051 Chain 10sp. By the way - the power link connector was a pig to fit, as in very tight. I could not get it to fully connect into itself without having to link it all together and push down on the cranks to pull the chain 'tight' into tension (between the cranks an the cassette as in applying power if you know what I mean?).

    Happy holidays -

    (Santa please bring me a Reverb dropper post. I've be good most of the time this year ....)

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    351
    Bought a 1071 and had same issue having to load tension in chain to get link to connect. Now running the 1071 with a knc connector

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    72
    i got an xtr 'uni directional' chain on sale, thanks to cyber friday. no way i would have paid retail for it.

    thanks to a buddy, i was able to set things up right. not a lot of play left in my rdr when running big big. it's logical when you think about it.

    maiden voyage yesterday, very sweet ride. amazing shifting and zero creak/squeaks.

    i'll try to do a comparison write up in going from my sultan back to a 26er. there are big differences i picked up on almost immediately. i'm very glad i made the switch back.

    thanks again to all for their help. will try to snap a pic or two later today.

Similar Threads

  1. 2010 versus 2011 5spot?
    By Horacek in forum Turner
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 11-19-2011, 08:00 AM
  2. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-31-2011, 12:56 AM
  3. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-22-2011, 09:19 AM
  4. RP23 rebound on 2011 5Spot
    By www.tizianophoto.com in forum Turner
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-28-2011, 04:41 PM
  5. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-23-2011, 02:15 PM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.