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  1. #1
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    170mm 36 on a RFX?

    Anyone running a 170mm Fox 36 on their RFX? Im getting a new fork and I was considering the 170. Its my only bike and I ride all kinds of stuff. Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Reputation: cheezwhip's Avatar
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    I ran mine @ 170mm with no issues - sagged, the delta is negligible IMO.
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  3. #3
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    Friend has it, works great I run 160 on my RFX and.. could see the point of a 170 front for a bit of extra slackness..

    Either way you should be sorted.

  4. #4
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    You can even run a 180 if you wanted to.

    I'm running a 170 MRP stage.

  5. #5
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    Running 170 Lyrik head angle measures 66 degrees.

  6. #6
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    I've ridden 180, 170 and 160. All fox 36s.

    170 minimum would be my rec. For balls out rallying downhill, a 180 fork is in no way shape or form out of place on this bike.

    Pretty sure you buy a 180mm fork with spacers in it for a 170. So you can try both.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DHRracer View Post
    Running 170 Lyrik head angle measures 66 degrees.
    Hmm, I believe I was getting closer to 65, just measured about a week ago. It's a little difficult because the angle of the stanchions isn't necessarily the HA. My phone with theodolite on the stanchion isn't correct (but says 65.5 or so). Tire size will affect it too though.

    170mm feels like the sweet spot to me. To be fair, my fork is tuned with an Avy cartridge, so that right there easily outshines forks with more travel IME, gives me better control/absorption without having to have a crazy high front end. In that sense, it's almost an odd feeling when I go rock the park or DH runs in WA and feel like I don't need any more travel, don't even think about it, but that's how tuned suspension kind of disappears under you.

    I did just switch to 1x11 on the bike (more accurately, got the 1x11 shimano setup off my fatbike, because I didn't care for it there) and I find in the 42 rear cog the front end starts to get a bit light on the uphills. This is really easier gearing than I need though (so I might bump my 30t ring up to 32t). Otherwise, when I was climbing with my easiest gear as a 36t, I could manage up and around tight uphill switchbacks that gave others with steeper headtube angles and less travel lots of grief. I attribute this largely to the lack of front end lift (rear end squat) with the DW link. I tend to ride really steep stuff though, so others might not feel this is as critical for their riding. I definitely wouldn't go more than 170, raising the front end up that far would start to compromise the climbing IMO and if you are just going to ride downhill all the time, use a full DH bike, or you possibly have enough money to build this as a "lighter" bike for enduro racing or something, but the true capability of the RFX is it's versatility IME, to rock the park one day and then a long epic 46 mile ride the next. The only reason I think 160mm is a bit marginal is the HA, by the numbers that'd be a bit steep IMO, differences in tire size could possibly erase this, but I think it sits nice at 170.
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  8. #8
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    Measurement was taken with digital angle finder on the stanchion.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It's a little difficult because the angle of the stanchions isn't necessarily the HA.

    Sure it is. It's more the HA than measuring the frame. And if your stanchion doesn't line up with your steerer tube you've got other issues.
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  10. #10
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    What offset should I be looking for guys?

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