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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    I own the bike, and it seems to pedal very well. Certainly better than my Slash. I've been down the ladder with VRs, from the stock 0.4 to 0.2 to none, just experimenting.

    No surprise, it pedals best with the 0.4 VR, and still very occasionally uses full travel at recommended sag. I may throw in the 0.6, just to see how it feels. I suspect it would be the go-to setup for actual racing.
    I agree this thing pedals really well. I am beating all of my old climbing times. Everytime I hit a trail for the first time with this bike, it is a PB. I am light so am running no spacer right now (per our recent conversation). I may toss in the .2 just to see how that feels tonight.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    I agree this thing pedals really well. I am beating all of my old climbing times. Everytime I hit a trail for the first time with this bike, it is a PB. I am light so am running no spacer right now (per our recent conversation). I may toss in the .2 just to see how that feels tonight.
    I am also finding the bike to be an excellent climber. Surprisingly good in fact. Granted I built mine up very light, but even so it's impressive for 115mm/120mm. Coming off a 2019 TF 9.9, and not finding any significant difference at all in climbing times. One slight oddity I found with the shock during setup was that it sags into its travel quite a bit (around 31%) at what I found to be the correct pressure. I am having to run a little lighter rebound to compensate.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by expatrider View Post
    One slight oddity I found with the shock during setup was that it sags into its travel quite a bit (around 31%) at what I found to be the correct pressure. I am having to run a little lighter rebound to compensate.
    I at least think that this is a characteristic of the EVOL Fox rear shocks. They tend to want to sag down to that level, even as you increase pressure.

    NOTE: I moved this discussion to the end of the thread, so we don't have to go digging around in the middle of page 2. Seems appropriate.
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  4. #404
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  5. #405
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    What is it?
    Diamondback Mission 4
    Cannondale: Perp, SuperSix
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    BMC Speedfox

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomac18 View Post
    What is it?
    Looks like this

    https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/co...-dual-cage-kit

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Going to give that a try.

    Never seen it before. Thanks for the heads up!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Going to give that a try.

    Never seen it before. Thanks for the heads up!
    they have some on amazon usa, think only 4 left
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  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    they have some on amazon usa, think only 4 left
    Thanks to me, only 3 left now.

    Free delivery tomorrow, test it out on Sunday!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  10. #410
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    make that 2 left..... only complaint with my Top Fuel and now it might be fixed.

  11. #411
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    That might be lot of weight to put on two threaded inserts in the frame. IDK about the Top Fuel specifically but I've seen these inserts come loose in other frames.
    Do the math.

  12. #412
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    2020 Top Fuel Official Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    That might be lot of weight to put on two threaded inserts in the frame. IDK about the Top Fuel specifically but I've seen these inserts come loose in other frames.
    Thread lock.

    Ah n/m you mean the insert..


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  13. #413
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    Im a little confused, most of us want lighter bikes but then adding multiple bottles adds any weight savings back to the bike. Granted I use a hydro pack so Im still carrying the weight, but in my mind it isnt on the bike.

    Have seen lots of recent posts in several threads about people wanting multiple bottles on their lightweight bikes.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bills View Post
    Im a little confused, most of us want lighter bikes but then adding multiple bottles adds any weight savings back to the bike. Granted I use a hydro pack so Im still carrying the weight, but in my mind it isnt on the bike.

    Have seen lots of recent posts in several threads about people wanting multiple bottles on their lightweight bikes.
    Weight is better down low than on your back.
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  15. #415
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    Weight is better on your body as it can translate to the pedals.

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  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by DouglyssRuns View Post
    Weight is better on your body as it can translate to the pedals.

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    Alternately, you have to lift it up and down with every pedal stroke. Its also going to increase your thermal stress.


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  17. #417
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    It's better on the bike where the bike supports it against gravity rather than you having so support it and move it around as you move around. My limitation pedaling is the strength of my muscles and ability to produce power. Carrying weight on my person would only hurt that.
    Do the math.

  18. #418
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    No weight on my back, no sweaty back, 2 bottles become 1 half way thru the ride, so as i get weaker bike gets lighter.

    2 bottles for 2hr rides are .

    Ive tried the back bottle too, fanny packs. Not a fan. Im also 62 so i look like i have a childs backpack on with hydro packs and they just snag on branches.


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  19. #419
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    I recently upgraded my TR 9.8 freehub to 108T engagement and the 108T free spin noise is awesome compared to the 54T. Of course the main reason for the upgrade is for the 108T engagement and not the noises it makes.

    The feel seems pretty minor and maybe it's in my head but uphill engagement seem more instant.

    Perhaps the cheapest drivetrain upgrade you can do.

    If anyone is interested these are the P/N that your LBS can order for you. I purchased it from a local Trek shop.

    552414 Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawls (3-pack) $17.99 USD
    552415 Rapid Drive 108 Freehub Pawl Springs (3-pack) $8.99 USD
    423458 Bontrager "Special" Grease $10.99 USD

  20. #420
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    Just got my Lyne double bottle cage and....it doesnt work. That must be an XL or bigger frame in the picture. I might be able to get a really small bottle in the second cage but not a 20oz. Its also pretty heavy so not a great race bike option especially if only for a really small bottle

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Just got my Lyne double bottle cage and....it doesnt work. That must be an XL or bigger frame in the picture. I might be able to get a really small bottle in the second cage but not a 20oz. Its also pretty heavy so not a great race bike option especially if only for a really small bottle
    Same here, even with an XL frame. The two bottles that WOULD fit barely total more than my single 33-ounce Zefal Magnum bottle.

    The positive of some very minor added capacity is not worth the negatives you noted, to me.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  22. #422
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    2020 Top Fuel Official Post

    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Just got my Lyne double bottle cage and....it doesnt work. That must be an XL or bigger frame in the picture. I might be able to get a really small bottle in the second cage but not a 20oz. Its also pretty heavy so not a great race bike option especially if only for a really small bottle
    Really? Shit... i have an xl bike. Yes the bike in the pics an XL.


    Can you post a pic?

    Free amazon return tho right?


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  23. #423
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    The Wolftooth double should work. Ive been using one on my 2019 for a year. Love it.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    The Wolftooth double should work. Ive been using one on my 2019 for a year. Love it.
    Did you mount them more forward? I feel like my legs would hit the bottles.


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  25. #425
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    I thought mine would also, but they dont. Very rarely I will feel my leg hair brush them. I have recommended it to a lot of people and theyve all been happy.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    I thought mine would also, but they dont. Very rarely I will feel my leg hair brush them. I have recommended it to a lot of people and theyve all been happy.
    Picture?


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  27. #427
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    2020 Top Fuel Official Post

    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Picture?


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  28. #428
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    Holy F-ing seatpost!!!!

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unbrockenchain View Post
    Holy F-ing seatpost!!!!
    Yup. I had a large Procaliber, busted the frame and Trek let me get the Top Fuel as a replacement, didnt realize there was such a difference in geometry. XL Supercaliber up next.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    I thought mine would also, but they dont. Very rarely I will feel my leg hair brush them. I have recommended it to a lot of people and theyve all been happy.
    What size frame?

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    What size frame?
    19.5

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    19.5
    Could you share a pic?

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Free amazon return tho right?
    Yup.

    Although we're prime members. Not sure whether that matters.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    The Wolftooth double should work. Ive been using one on my 2019 for a year. Love it.
    Does it seem at all weird when used with one bottle?

    She keeps pulling to the right, Captain!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    Could you share a pic?
    Pics above.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    Pics above.
    Thanks! Not sure how I missed that.

  37. #437
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    Pic: Bite valve on left bottle looks yummy! Is that horse dung or dog poo?
    Do the math.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Pic: Bite valve on left bottle looks yummy! Is that horse dung or dog poo?
    From a race in the UP of Michigan called ore2shore. Red dirt everywhere, stains everything.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Yup.

    Although we're prime members. Not sure whether that matters.
    Mines coming up to Canada. Did you disassemble it? Would like to see some better pics. Mines also last gen top fuel... i can move my bottle forward quiet a bit. I moved the cage forward a hole and it could fit a smaller bottle behind it no problems.

    My friends scalpel and other friends element both can only fit a 600 and 750 bottle. And the nossels rub on the suspension... so if i can fit this with a bit of rubbing no big deal.




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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Mines coming up to Canada. Did you disassemble it? Would like to see some better pics. Mines also last gen top fuel... i can move my bottle forward quiet a bit. I moved the cage forward a hole and it could fit a smaller bottle behind it no problems.

    My friends scalpel and other friends element both can only fit a 600 and 750 bottle. And the nossels rub on the suspension... so if i can fit this with a bit of rubbing no big deal.




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    Sorry, it's on its way back to the Big A. But I think you'll be OK with the older Top Fuel.

    As noted by others, the thing is NOT light (but did seem really well-made).
    Whining is not a strategy.

  41. #441
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    Actual weight

    Anyone have actual weights for a stock 19.5 tubeless or tubed? Preferably 9.9?
    Last edited by dsills; 10-01-2019 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Misspelled
    Trek Top Fuel 9.9 RSL
    Trek Procaliber 9.8 SL P1
    Trek Madone SLR9
    Trek Checkpoint SL

  42. #442
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    Ive just ordered a TF 9.8 GX P1 in ICON/Liquid Brushed Metal (not a fan of these fancy and loud colors). Will use it in addition to my 19 Remedy 9.8 :-)

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Ive just ordered a TF 9.8 GX P1 in ICON/Liquid Brushed Metal (not a fan of these fancy and loud colors). Will use it in addition to my 19 Remedy 9.8 :-)
    Awesome! How long is the build lead time?

  44. #444
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    I just put an X01 AXS drivetrain on my 9.8. Have to say I'm impressed so far. Shifting speed is awesome. Looking forward to seeing how it performs over time.

    I didn't weight the bike before and after, but replacing just the cassette and crankset knocks off about 1/2lb, and I think the GX shifter + RD weights a bit more than the X01 AXS RD & controller.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    Awesome! How long is the build lead time?
    Between 3 to 4 weeks. Fuel EX P1 in that color and XT version is only 19 days. Thats what I was told from my LBS last week.

  46. #446
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    I 'm going to post up my 2019 top fuel and get whatever I can get for it and get the new top fuel. Then I'll build a hard tail and that will be my xc race bike. I already have a slash but I hate pedaling the thing for any rides longer than 2 hours.

  47. #447
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    I've got around 600-700 miles on the new 2020 TF 9.9 and everything is great except for the wheels. I've had them re-tensioned twice now and they are still extremely noisy do to spokes flexing / rubbing. I can't even sit on the bike without these things making noise. Does anyone else have this issue? I'd sell them and buy a pair of NOX, but I don't even feel comfortable pawning them off to someone else.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by blum585 View Post
    I've got around 600-700 miles on the new 2020 TF 9.9 and everything is great except for the wheels. I've had them re-tensioned twice now and they are still extremely noisy do to spokes flexing / rubbing. I can't even sit on the bike without these things making noise. Does anyone else have this issue? I'd sell them and buy a pair of NOX, but I don't even feel comfortable pawning them off to someone else.
    Kovee Pro 30s, right? I'm near 1,000 miles, and they seem solid and quiet. Maybe a spot of lube where the spokes cross each other?
    Whining is not a strategy.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by blum585 View Post
    I've got around 600-700 miles on the new 2020 TF 9.9 and everything is great except for the wheels. I've had them re-tensioned twice now and they are still extremely noisy do to spokes flexing / rubbing. I can't even sit on the bike without these things making noise. Does anyone else have this issue? I'd sell them and buy a pair of NOX, but I don't even feel comfortable pawning them off to someone else.
    I'm interested for the right price

  50. #450
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    Blum585,
    I get that problem early in a ride, but it seems to settle in as the ride goes on. One of my bladed spokes is twisted near the hub, so it doesn't sit flat against the adjacent spoke. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet since I need to pull the cassette to get to it. The NDS spokes are tensioned really low on these wheels. The rims are no longer asymmetric like the older Bontrager rims.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimphatty View Post
    I'm interested for the right price
    What's the right price?

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdiddy View Post
    Blum585,
    I get that problem early in a ride, but it seems to settle in as the ride goes on. One of my bladed spokes is twisted near the hub, so it doesn't sit flat against the adjacent spoke. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet since I need to pull the cassette to get to it. The NDS spokes are tensioned really low on these wheels. The rims are no longer asymmetric like the older Bontrager rims.
    It never goes away, people I ride with even question what they are hearing...

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by blum585 View Post
    I've got around 600-700 miles on the new 2020 TF 9.9 and everything is great except for the wheels. I've had them re-tensioned twice now and they are still extremely noisy do to spokes flexing / rubbing. I can't even sit on the bike without these things making noise. Does anyone else have this issue? I'd sell them and buy a pair of NOX, but I don't even feel comfortable pawning them off to someone else.
    Had a set of dt swiss r32s doing this. My lbs said the spoke tension was in spec. Would ting. I tried lubing the crosses. The hub... finally i said **** it and half turned every spoke... sound gone.

    Get someone to re tension the wheels and use spoke lock.


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  54. #454
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    You guys and i have a different definition of heavy. This thing is pretty light haha


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  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by blum585 View Post
    What's the right price?

    message me

  56. #456
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    Im strongly considering a Top Fuel as my next ride. Having never owned a Trek, I hope a current owner can help me with a few questions:

    -Cable routing? Are there molded-in tubes inside the frame? Assume so but havent found info on this.

    -KnockBlock headset seems like kind of a kludge. Can it be disabled, I.e. turned into a normal headset using a standard crown and stem?

    -Anyone got a confirmed weight on a carbon frame + shock?

    -Looking at getting a frameset, is it confirmed that it comes with a non-Kashima shock? If so thats pretty lame at $3300.

    -Hows Treks customer support? I assume any issues go through dealer where bike is bought, hows response time and helpfulness from Trek on warranty issues? Im used to dealing with Ibis, which is about the best in the industry.

    Thanks any/all!

  57. #457
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    Mini-Review: Got the bike out on Bend, Oregon's fast, smooth trails yesterday for a quick 2 hour tour.

    Perfect for this place. I liked that it climbed well when open, and used full travel exactly once when set at recommended sag. Coming down (pedaling downhill, nothing rowdy) I loved the quicker steering. It was so easy to corner fast. No understeer.

    But I'm coming off a summer of riding a Slash as a trailbike!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Im strongly considering a Top Fuel as my next ride. Having never owned a Trek, I hope a current owner can help me with a few questions:

    -Cable routing? Are there molded-in tubes inside the frame? Assume so but havent found info on this.

    -KnockBlock headset seems like kind of a kludge. Can it be disabled, I.e. turned into a normal headset using a standard crown and stem?

    -Anyone got a confirmed weight on a carbon frame + shock?

    -Looking at getting a frameset, is it confirmed that it comes with a non-Kashima shock? If so thats pretty lame at $3300.

    -Hows Treks customer support? I assume any issues go through dealer where bike is bought, hows response time and helpfulness from Trek on warranty issues? Im used to dealing with Ibis, which is about the best in the industry.

    Thanks any/all!
    Hey there! I'd be happy to help answer your questions and I'm sure others could chime in too.

    For our internal cable routing, we do not use a molded channel as it would just add unneeded weight to the frame for the extra material, but we have a clean cable management system called Control Freak which uses a tab on the underside of the frame that holds your cable housing and brake hoses from rattling.

    Knock Block is not suggested to be removed - you get a large turning radius with it that I have found to not affect me for singletrack. Removing it can cause the fork crown to come in contact with the downtube if you turn the bar to hard or fall off your bike. But you can use another stem of your choice with a lockring spacer we make that is placed at the bottom of the stack.

    Medium Top Fuel in a carbon frame would weigh 2.46 kg / 5.43 lbs. This would be with a Fox Performance Float shock - no Kashima but still the same great performance nonetheless!

    We have live chat 7 days a week, phone hours during the week with a great staff here at HQ and I'm here on the forums or on our social media channels! Lots of ways to connect with us should you need us. But for warranty related issues, those are always best to go through your local dealer to have the claim submitted. We have a turnaround time of 48 hours unless the issue requires more time to investigate it or retrieve the part(s). But our team works hard to get claims resolved quickly!

    Cheers!
    Community Manager | Trek Bicycle Corporation | www.trekbikes.com

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Knock Block is not suggested to be removed - you get a large turning radius with it that I have found to not affect me for singletrack. Removing it can cause the fork crown to come in contact with the downtube if you turn the bar to hard or fall off your bike. But you can use another stem of your choice with a lockring spacer we make that is placed at the bottom of the stack.
    The knock block annoys me for two reasons. One, when I was doing a trackstand I was trying to make a quick adjustment and almost fell over when I abruptly stopped turning the wheel because I hit the knock block. Now that I've had the bike for a few months I'm more used to it though. And two I have to arrange the bikes a certain way on my tailgate pad due to the knock block.

    These are pretty minor annoyances and I'll admit that I've never noticed it on singletrack, even in tight switchbacks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodninja View Post
    And two I have to arrange the bikes a certain way on my tailgate pad due to the knock block.
    I definitely suggest using a standard hitch rack or an alternative to the tailgate pad, especially if you have a carbon frame. Plus it would make your life easier since you would just have to slap it on the rack and go.
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  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I definitely suggest using a standard hitch rack or an alternative to the tailgate pad, especially if you have a carbon frame. Plus it would make your life easier since you would just have to slap it on the rack and go.
    Mitch, thanks for chiming in; the fact that someone from Trek is on here answering question certainly seems to speak well of the customer service!

    Additional queries: Do any frame sizes come with two water bottle mounts? I know a few other brands spec dual mounts on XL/XXL frames where they'll actually fit.

    Frame-only, am I limited to black for color?

    Folks who have built these, how do we feel about Control Freak? I see the versatility, but also seems like it'd be a bit of a PITA to do things like change out a shifter cable/housing without disassembling everything. Nice thing about those internal tubes is you can do that really easily, and the moist conditions here in the PNW tend to degrade shifting.

    Can anyone comment on durability of bearings and linkage? Any recurring issues with things getting loose or bearings going bad? Seems like a very well-sorted bike, but hoping it'd survive the PNWet without a ton of maintenance headaches.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Folks who have built these, how do we feel about Control Freak? I see the versatility, but also seems like it'd be a bit of a PITA to do things like change out a shifter cable/housing without disassembling everything. Nice thing about those internal tubes is you can do that really easily, and the moist conditions here in the PNW tend to degrade shifting.


    All the cable changes I've done on trek bikes with control freak routing have been easy and fast. Good design imo.
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  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Mitch, thanks for chiming in; the fact that someone from Trek is on here answering question certainly seems to speak well of the customer service!

    Additional queries: Do any frame sizes come with two water bottle mounts? I know a few other brands spec dual mounts on XL/XXL frames where they'll actually fit.

    Frame-only, am I limited to black for color?

    Folks who have built these, how do we feel about Control Freak? I see the versatility, but also seems like it'd be a bit of a PITA to do things like change out a shifter cable/housing without disassembling everything. Nice thing about those internal tubes is you can do that really easily, and the moist conditions here in the PNW tend to degrade shifting.

    Can anyone comment on durability of bearings and linkage? Any recurring issues with things getting loose or bearings going bad? Seems like a very well-sorted bike, but hoping it'd survive the PNWet without a ton of maintenance headaches.
    I've found the internal routing on my 2020 Top Fuel to be easy to work with, but not quite as easy as the "tits" on other bikes where you just insert and push through. The cable freak involves zip-tying the cables together inside the down-tube. Not exactly difficult, but just not as super-easy as tits. A lot of people probably won't bother internally routing the rear brake hose, but for some reason that was very difficult to get through the stay.

    Too early to comment on durability, but no issues at all with my 2017 TF, so that probably says a lot.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Mitch, thanks for chiming in; the fact that someone from Trek is on here answering question certainly seems to speak well of the customer service!

    Additional queries: Do any frame sizes come with two water bottle mounts? I know a few other brands spec dual mounts on XL/XXL frames where they'll actually fit.

    Frame-only, am I limited to black for color?

    Folks who have built these, how do we feel about Control Freak? I see the versatility, but also seems like it'd be a bit of a PITA to do things like change out a shifter cable/housing without disassembling everything. Nice thing about those internal tubes is you can do that really easily, and the moist conditions here in the PNW tend to degrade shifting.

    Can anyone comment on durability of bearings and linkage? Any recurring issues with things getting loose or bearings going bad? Seems like a very well-sorted bike, but hoping it'd survive the PNWet without a ton of maintenance headaches.
    Happy to help!

    I have not actually seen the 2020 TF in anything larger than a L frame so I've reached out to MTB team to check. But looking at the L, I don't think we've added a second set of water bottle bosses as it would be tight.

    For the carbon frame-only, the Matte Carbon/Gloss Trek Black is the single option.

    Also, having built 30+ bikes with the Control Freak, it is really easy to use once you do it a couple of times. Doing it your first time, you can see how it works, but you need the right tools. You essentially create a sharp bend in the end of the zip tie, use a hook tool or small 90 degree tool to bring the housings under the zip tie, then use a needle nose to grab the zip tie and guide it home.
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I definitely suggest using a standard hitch rack or an alternative to the tailgate pad, especially if you have a carbon frame. Plus it would make your life easier since you would just have to slap it on the rack and go.
    Why do you suggest a hitch rack rather than the tailgate pad? Is this specific to the knock block? My frame is carbon...

    I also have a 4 bike hitch rack that I use on my wife's SUV and honestly I find the tailgate pad faster and easier.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodninja View Post
    Why do you suggest a hitch rack rather than the tailgate pad? Is this specific to the knock block? My frame is carbon...

    I also have a 4 bike hitch rack that I use on my wife's SUV and honestly I find the tailgate pad faster and easier.
    The pad is certainly faster and pretty convenient, but in our manual, we suggest avoiding carry methods that require a clamp to the frame to prevent any chance of damage. Carrying the bike by the wheels works best and leaves your frame clean and also scratch free. Personally, I use the Saris MTR, but there are plenty of other good options too. If you have a pickup, the in-bed racks are nice and you can take them out quick.
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  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodninja View Post
    Why do you suggest a hitch rack rather than the tailgate pad? Is this specific to the knock block? My frame is carbon...

    I also have a 4 bike hitch rack that I use on my wife's SUV and honestly I find the tailgate pad faster and easier.


    Sorry, not Mitch but here's my 2 cents. Tailgate pads unnecessarily abrade and stress the downtube/headtube junction and can allow bikes to beat on each other when driving on rough roads. Maybe not a big deal overall but it is one of their downsides, on the upside they're cheap and simple. Hitch racks are expensive but they hold bikes more securely without stressing them.
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  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Sorry, not Mitch but here's my 2 cents. Tailgate pads unnecessarily abrade and stress the downtube/headtube junction and can allow bikes to beat on each other when driving on rough roads. Maybe not a big deal overall but it is one of their downsides, on the upside they're cheap and simple. Hitch racks are expensive but they hold bikes more securely without stressing them.
    Like I said I have a 4 bike hitch rack too. I can live with the abrasion, I just wanted to know if there was something specific about the Top Fuel that I shouldn't be using a tailgate pad. I have a popup camper too, and I may buy a rack that goes on top of the camper (although there are potential issues with that too) but for now the pad is the best way for me to haul 4 bikes, gear, and the camper...and also not have to switch between trailer hitch and bike rack, which I admit is just laziness.

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by bloodninja View Post
    I can live with the abrasion, I just wanted to know if there was something specific about the Top Fuel that I shouldn't be using a tailgate pad.

    Other than the knock block issue you already mentioned I'm sure there's nothing specific about that frame that makes it any better or worse to use with a tailgate pad. Pretty sure Mitch was just saying that a hitch rack is a better way to prevent damage while transporting any bike, especially a carbon one. If a tailgate pad is your best or only option I'm sure that's fine too.
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  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Other than the knock block issue you already mentioned I'm sure there's nothing specific about that frame that makes it any better or worse to use with a tailgate pad. Pretty sure Mitch was just saying that a hitch rack is a better way to prevent damage while transporting any bike, especially a carbon one. If a tailgate pad is your best or only option I'm sure that's fine too.
    I appreciate it guys, I just panicked for a minute thinking there was something about the knock block and I was destroying my frame!

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    I have just visited my LBS, because they received a Top Fuel 9.8 XT P1 in size large (weight is 12 kg) for another customer.
    The breaks are indeed the old XT BR-M8020 from Shimano (thought that this was maybe a mistake on the website) and on the wheels I could see really cheap break discs, maybe one of the cheapest you can buy from Shimano (no XT break discs!).

    [email protected]: I have also ordered a TF 9.8 GX P1 and in my opinion the fact that Trek mounts an old version of XT breaks and cheap brake discs on a 2020 bike with this price tag is a massive disappointment! It would be nice if youre going to explain the reasons why! Thank you!

    Edit: Now I can see on the P1 site that Trek has changed the specs for the 9.8 versions from XT BR-M8020 brakes to SLX M7100 brakes from Shimano. Trek: this cannot be true! Are you kidding us/me?

  72. #472
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    I'd say the same about spec'ing a "performance" level shock on the Top Fuel frame-only kit, for $3300. That price is already on the Yeti end of the spectrum, and anyone buying a frame kit is going to be a detail-oriented type who would care about this. Seems like a dumb way to save a few bucks.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    I have just visited my LBS, because they received a Top Fuel 9.8 XT P1 in size large (weight is 12 kg) for another customer.
    The breaks are indeed the old XT BR-M8020 from Shimano (thought that this was maybe a mistake on the website) and on the wheels I could see really cheap break discs, maybe one of the cheapest you can buy from Shimano (no XT break discs!).

    [email protected]: I have also ordered a TF 9.8 GX P1 and in my opinion the fact that Trek mounts an old version of XT breaks and cheap brake discs on a 2020 bike with this price tag is a massive disappointment! It would be nice if youre going to explain the reasons why! Thank you!

    Edit: Now I can see on the P1 site that Trek has changed the specs for the 9.8 versions from XT BR-M8020 brakes to SLX M7100 brakes from Shimano. Trek: this cannot be true! Are you kidding us/me?
    For the Topfuel 9.8 XT it even says SLX M7000 brakes. How can you do such a thing, when you would not read the details you would never expect this certainly not on the 9.8 XT. This will disappoint many.
    Maybe the SLX brakes are not really less good than the XTs but come on TREK ...
    On the Fuel EX same thing although there SLX M7120.

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerard29er View Post
    For the Topfuel 9.8 XT it even says SLX M7000 brakes. How can you do such a thing, when you would not read the details you would never expect this certainly not on the 9.8 XT. This will disappoint many.
    Maybe the SLX brakes are not really less good than the XTs but come on TREK ...
    On the Fuel EX same thing although there SLX M7120.
    Its even harder to understand having a look at the XTR models: they are all speced with XTR M9120 Race brakes. Which are Shimanos newest version of their XTR brakes...

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Its even harder to understand having a look at the XTR models: they are all speced with XTR M9120 Race brakes. Which are Shimanos newest version of their XTR brakes...
    Yes thats more like it should be ...

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    Has anyone found a way to mount a bash guard since the TF doesn't have ISCG mounts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Sorry, not Mitch but here's my 2 cents. Tailgate pads unnecessarily abrade and stress the downtube/headtube junction and can allow bikes to beat on each other when driving on rough roads. Maybe not a big deal overall but it is one of their downsides, on the upside they're cheap and simple. Hitch racks are expensive but they hold bikes more securely without stressing them.
    A knock block Top Fuel, carbon or other otherwise works fine on a tailgate pad. There is nothing inherently bad about it that can't be addressed with a bit of prevention. Some other rack designs are much harder to avoid potential damage.

    Any pickup owner can make a PVC or 1X2 lumber rack for a few dozen dollars that will prevent movement while using a taligate pad. I throw tow 2020 TFs and a carbon Stache on the pad with another kids bike with no problem. In addition, a piece of packing, helicopter, or even duct tape on the contact point can avoid damage to the down tube. The knock block is a bit of a pain on a tailgate that isn't flat on the face because if the wheel needs to turn to hit a surface that is more than 180 from the top tube .. it can't with a knock block. I just arrange the bikes to avoid this, but if I had 3 or more knock block bikes I'd have to change my plan.

    As far as stressing the top tube, bike racks that securely fasten the front fork to a solid object put a unusual amount of stress on the fork, top tube, and steering tube. This is amplified if the rear tire is allowed to bounce. Years ago I destroyed two sets of fork bushings before I figured it out. Other racks put a pressure in the middle of the top tube with a ratchet that can be smashed down by a user; not an ideal loading situation. A rack that only clamps on the tires may be the best, but they come with a host of issues too (price, size, weight, tire size capability, ...).

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerard29er View Post
    For the Topfuel 9.8 XT it even says SLX M7000 brakes. How can you do such a thing, when you would not read the details you would never expect this certainly not on the 9.8 XT. This will disappoint many.
    Maybe the SLX brakes are not really less good than the XTs but come on TREK ...
    On the Fuel EX same thing although there SLX M7120.
    They certainly are better than the awful sram brakes that Trek used to spec on almost any of their mid and high tier bikes. Unless you are adding more pistons, I don't think there is a functional difference as you move up the line with Shimano brakes. It is almost entirely a few grams and many dollars. Compared to some other brands in this market the 9.8 TF is a relative bargain. I think they are trying to hold a price point while providing a spec that works ... and doesn't generate thousands of warranty claims.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    ...
    Can anyone comment on durability of bearings and linkage? Any recurring issues with things getting loose or bearings going bad? Seems like a very well-sorted bike, but hoping it'd survive the PNWet without a ton of maintenance headaches.
    So far so good with both of my 2020 TFs. On the first one, I torqued all of the pivot bolts with a torque wrench as soon as I got home from the purchase. Two things came up. One bolt was not tightened properly. The other "problem" is that I failed to recognize that the lowest pivot bolt near the chain ring teeth is reverse thread. So I loosened the bolt inadvertently before I tightened it. That action stopped the thread locking compound from holding a grip. The bolt loosened a bit on 4 or 5 rides after that even when torqued to spec. Eventually I removed the bolt, properly cleaned all threads, applied new locking compound (locktitie blue 242), torqued it to spec, and let it sit overnight. None of the bolts including the reverse thread one have moved in the hundreds of miles since, which includes BMX and jump park use that cycles the suspension endlessly.

    The other TF had all of the bolts tightened properly from the start. I marked each one with a tiny silver magic marker dot, and none of them have moved in hundreds of trail miles. No play or noise either.

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaycj View Post
    A knock block Top Fuel, carbon or other otherwise works fine on a tailgate pad. There is nothing inherently bad about it that can't be addressed with a bit of prevention. Some other rack designs are much harder to avoid potential damage.

    Any pickup owner can make a PVC or 1X2 lumber rack for a few dozen dollars that will prevent movement while using a taligate pad. I throw tow 2020 TFs and a carbon Stache on the pad with another kids bike with no problem. In addition, a piece of packing, helicopter, or even duct tape on the contact point can avoid damage to the down tube. The knock block is a bit of a pain on a tailgate that isn't flat on the face because if the wheel needs to turn to hit a surface that is more than 180 from the top tube .. it can't with a knock block. I just arrange the bikes to avoid this, but if I had 3 or more knock block bikes I'd have to change my plan.

    As far as stressing the top tube, bike racks that securely fasten the front fork to a solid object put a unusual amount of stress on the fork, top tube, and steering tube. This is amplified if the rear tire is allowed to bounce. Years ago I destroyed two sets of fork bushings before I figured it out. Other racks put a pressure in the middle of the top tube with a ratchet that can be smashed down by a user; not an ideal loading situation. A rack that only clamps on the tires may be the best, but they come with a host of issues too (price, size, weight, tire size capability, ...).


    I agree. I didn't say tailgate pads were bad, just that hitch racks are better because they don't stress the frame or wheels at all and securely separate the bikes.
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  81. #481
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    What is everyone carrying in the backcountry for the ABP derailleur hanger, had a hacked solution for my Stache but be nice not to carry a heavy 23mm socket
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  82. #482
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    Trek ABP Field Service Tool? That flat one shown below has been discontinues AFAIK. The socket type shown supplants it.

    https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/e...-tool/p/09843/
    Do the math.

  83. #483
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    Now I have a clunking sound when I stand up and pedal hard. Noticed it last night...

    Crank bolt is tight, all pivot bolts are tight. It's not my pedal. The only thing I can think of is that the preload adjustment on the crank isn't set right. Should I remove and reinstall the crank? No way the BB could be shot already, right? It hasn't been wet...hasn't even rained in Central VA since I got the bike in August lol.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbkev View Post
    Has anyone found a way to mount a bash guard since the TF doesn't have ISCG mounts?
    get a x-sync bash guard which you need to mount a 4 bolt ring to

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    Has anyone experimented with the mino link? Any notable differences with it in high v. low?

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    Has anyone experimented with the mino link? Any notable differences with it in high v. low?
    I typically experiment a fair bit with the mino, but my TF came in "low" and seems to handle perfectly without any pedal strike issues whatsoever, so it has remained in "low".
    Whining is not a strategy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    I typically experiment a fair bit with the mino, but my TF came in "low" and seems to handle perfectly without any pedal strike issues whatsoever, so it has remained in "low".
    Same thing Ive found with my FEX.....esp compared to the prior models....I had to run them on high but I haven't touched them on my 2020 and its on low!

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    Im running mine in high and have had strikes; I tend to pedal through corners a fair bit tho, and have added 5psi to the recommended shock setting on my last ride that seemed to help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    I have just visited my LBS, because they received a Top Fuel 9.8 XT P1 in size large (weight is 12 kg) for another customer.
    The breaks are indeed the old XT BR-M8020 from Shimano (thought that this was maybe a mistake on the website) and on the wheels I could see really cheap break discs, maybe one of the cheapest you can buy from Shimano (no XT break discs!).

    [email protected]: I have also ordered a TF 9.8 GX P1 and in my opinion the fact that Trek mounts an old version of XT breaks and cheap brake discs on a 2020 bike with this price tag is a massive disappointment! It would be nice if youre going to explain the reasons why! Thank you!

    Edit: Now I can see on the P1 site that Trek has changed the specs for the 9.8 versions from XT BR-M8020 brakes to SLX M7100 brakes from Shimano. Trek: this cannot be true! Are you kidding us/me?
    Why not to go with the 9.7 version, sell all of the low end components and put there XX1 / GX combo, decent fork (or even keep the Reba which is good), good wheelset and still come ahead of 9.8 build price tag..

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    Why not to go with the 9.7 version, sell all of the low end components and put there XX1 / GX combo, decent fork (or even keep the Reba which is good), good wheelset and still come ahead of 9.8 build price tag..
    As written before: I have ordered a TF P1. Means: Im not interested in the stock colors Trek is offering for the 2020 models.

    I mean: P1 is Treks prestige program. People who order a P1 bike from Trek are willing to pay a much higher price for the bike or paint job they prefer. Those customers should at least have the option - like some years ago - to choose the brakes they would like to have on their bike.

    For me - personally - SLX brakes are an absolute No Go on a bike that costs that much money.

    Also, Im a little bit surprised about the understanding some people here are having for Trek doing so.
    For example: all XTR models come with the new XTR M9100 brakes. For this reasons for me it makes absolutely no sense that the GX/XT models are offered with SLX brakes!

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    I have just visited my LBS, because they received a Top Fuel 9.8 XT P1 in size large (weight is 12 kg) for another customer.
    This is some good news. The weight advertised for the medium XT is 12,36kg, this is 0,5kg more than the regular 9.8 with GX. Both groups (without brakes) have almost the same weight.

    Last weekend, I was lucky to have a test bike (TF 9.8 with XX1 AXS) for the Roc d'Azur (a mountain festival in the south of France). It was my first time on a fully, the previous years I rode the races with my cannodale F29. I was big fun with the TF. The trails are allready quiet rough with a lot of rocks and smaller drops. But I wonder how this bike behaves on even rougher terrain? I want to use the bike as a light trail do it all rig or will I encounter to quick the limits of the suspension/frame?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gfr75 View Post
    This is some good news. The weight advertised for the medium XT is 12,36kg, this is 0,5kg more than the regular 9.8 with GX. Both groups (without brakes) have almost the same weight.

    Last weekend, I was lucky to have a test bike (TF 9.8 with XX1 AXS) for the Roc d'Azur (a mountain festival in the south of France). It was my first time on a fully, the previous years I rode the races with my cannodale F29. I was big fun with the TF. The trails are allready quiet rough with a lot of rocks and smaller drops. But I wonder how this bike behaves on even rougher terrain? I want to use the bike as a light trail do it all rig or will I encounter to quick the limits of the suspension/frame?
    I ride my TF on some pretty rough trails in Northern Italy (Dolomites). It handles anything I have the skill to tackle...I have an enduro bike as well and am taking it out less and less since I got this bike. It is amazing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    I ride my TF on some pretty rough trails in Northern Italy (Dolomites). It handles anything I have the skill to tackle...I have an enduro bike as well and am taking it out less and less since I got this bike. It is amazing.
    Hi, nice comment . I have spend also some summer holidays in the Dolomites, so beautiful. After renting a bike the last two years in Val di Sole and Val Gardena, I wanted to have my own bike which I can use in the mountains and also on the flat land of Flanders. It is such a hassle to rent a bike and it is never the bike you really want.
    Have you tested/considered other bikes as well? I am also thinking on the oiz TR (cheaper but looks not that robust) and ibis ripley/SC tallboy (heavier and too expensive).

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    Quote Originally Posted by gfr75 View Post
    Hi, nice comment . I have spend also some summer holidays in the Dolomites, so beautiful. After renting a bike the last two years in Val di Sole and Val Gardena, I wanted to have my own bike which I can use in the mountains and also on the flat land of Flanders. It is such a hassle to rent a bike and it is never the bike you really want.
    Have you tested/considered other bikes as well? I am also thinking on the oiz TR (cheaper but looks not that robust) and ibis ripley/SC tallboy (heavier and too expensive).
    I have some first hand knowledge of the Oiz. You get a lot of bike for the money and they are well made. Good warranty too. Can't go wrong really. My enduro-ish bike (Occam AM) is an Orbea. I haven't ridden either of the other two bikes.

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    2020 Top Fuel Official Post

    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    As written before: I have ordered a TF P1. Means: Im not interested in the stock colors Trek is offering for the 2020 models.

    I mean: P1 is Treks prestige program. People who order a P1 bike from Trek are willing to pay a much higher price for the bike or paint job they prefer. Those customers should at least have the option - like some years ago - to choose the brakes they would like to have on their bike.

    For me - personally - SLX brakes are an absolute No Go on a bike that costs that much money.

    Also, Im a little bit surprised about the understanding some people here are having for Trek doing so.
    For example: all XTR models come with the new XTR M9100 brakes. For this reasons for me it makes absolutely no sense that the GX/XT models are offered with SLX brakes!
    Agree, will P1 really stay this way? I also at least have the wish to chose the brakes my self, I simply need more.
    Of course a dealer can handle this for an extra price but isnt this the idea of P1 that you can chose colors and components? @[email protected]?

    It is a hefty price tag 1200 eur and than you still dont have the special colors and you basically only can change the seatpost while you get the impression you should have options for all components. Then I could more easily handle the extra price with more customizing. Maybe this comes later but meanwhile I dont get this impression. I had expected more. If it stays like this I would chose the new purple/black color which in fact is a P1 color but just 600 eur more.
    I also still have difficulty that they put SLX brakes on a XT bike although I tend to the Sram bikes but also there no Sram G2 RSC which would make more sense, although I could understand XT if they put that on all bikes of this price and I can also understand that they do some things to lower costs and make a lower price possible but the higher the price of the bike and the bigger difference the less understanding.

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    As written before: I have ordered a TF P1. Means: Im not interested in the stock colors Trek is offering for the 2020 models.

    I mean: P1 is Treks prestige program. People who order a P1 bike from Trek are willing to pay a much higher price for the bike or paint job they prefer. Those customers should at least have the option - like some years ago - to choose the brakes they would like to have on their bike.

    For me - personally - SLX brakes are an absolute No Go on a bike that costs that much money.

    Also, Im a little bit surprised about the understanding some people here are having for Trek doing so.
    For example: all XTR models come with the new XTR M9100 brakes. For this reasons for me it makes absolutely no sense that the GX/XT models are offered with SLX brakes!
    Haven't I read that these are showing up with XT brakes instead of the SLX shown on the Trek site?

    If not, ask your LBS to swap brakes for a small upcharge.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  97. #497
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    My 9.8 Purchases just less than 5 weeks ago came with SLX brakes, no issues with that IMO (XT would have been nice but prefer SLX to a mid range SRAM brake any day of the week).
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Haven't I read that these are showing up with XT brakes instead of the SLX shown on the Trek site?

    If not, ask your LBS to swap brakes for a small upcharge.
    If the upcharge is that small, why not having XT brakes on the stock (P1)bikes?

    Some 9.8 models seem to have been delivered with XT brakes, others - like shown on the Trek site - with SLX brakes.

    With P1: 2 weeks ago the 9.8 XT/GX models where shown on the website with XT brakes (old version), then this was changed to SLX brakes (new version) a few days later...

  99. #499
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    Anyone here have a Top Fuel in the Viper Red color? I'm curious how it actually looks.

  100. #500
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    I got my p1 9.9 xx1 top fuel today in M/L, with kovee xxx wheel upgrade. Was hoping it would be significantly under the 24lbs claimed given the lighter wheels and a 2.2 xr2 rear tire, but its almost 25. Not sure how to lose additional weight and keep the dropper. Can't wait to see how it rips this weekend!

  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    If the upcharge is that small, why not having XT brakes on the stock (P1)bikes?

    With P1: 2 weeks ago the 9.8 XT/GX models where shown on the website with XT brakes (old version), then this was changed to SLX brakes (new version) a few days later...
    I just had a look at the Trek website (Australia). The 9.8 XT comes with M7100 SLX brakes but also ... "Resin only" Brake rotors made out of the cheapest crappiest metal known to mankind. That is really quite stingy on Trek's part.

    Think how soft and crappy a rotor must be to usable with "resin pads only"

    I had these rotors on and old Fuel ex and they wore away in about 6 months of use.

    Would it really have been that hard to put even a set of old XT non ICE-TECH steel rotors on? those things cost almost nothing.

    these POS rotors come on a bike that costs SEVEN AND A HALF THOUSAND DOLLARS AU.

  102. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave_rh View Post
    I just had a look at the Trek website (Australia). The 9.8 XT comes with M7100 SLX brakes but also ... "Resin only" Brake rotors made out of the cheapest crappiest metal known to mankind. That is really quite stingy on Trek's part.

    Think how soft and crappy a rotor must be to usable with "resin pads only"

    I had these rotors on and old Fuel ex and they wore away in about 6 months of use.

    Would it really have been that hard to put even a set of old XT non ICE-TECH steel rotors on? those things cost almost nothing.

    these POS rotors come on a bike that costs SEVEN AND A HALF THOUSAND DOLLARS AU.
    Im done with this know: I will order the XTR M9120 brakes and XT Ice Tech rotors within the next few days for my 9.8...

  103. #503
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    Another interesting thing: the German Bike Magazin found out that the rear travel of their testbike - 2020 TF 9.9 XX1 - was between 123 mm (in the low position) and 131 mm (in the high position).

  104. #504
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    I have been riding with my 9.8 top fuel since beginning of June and love it.

    But I would also complain a bit about the price tag versus components..

    I'm planning to race with this bike next summer and therefore I have done already now quite a many updates (you can see those from my earlier post). Latest update was a custom wheelset:
    2020 Top Fuel Official Post-wheelset.jpg

    Weight for the set is 1.358kg (including xd freedrive, tubeless tapes + valves). Now the weight of the M size top fuel is 11.4kg (25.13lb) including pedals + bottle cage. Still I would do one upgrade which will replace the gx with Shimano components when current gx is worn out.

    Now this makes no sense at all to buy a "ready" bike and completely rebuild it - right?

  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by tke View Post
    I have been riding with my 9.8 top fuel since beginning of June and love it.


    Now this makes no sense at all to buy a "ready" bike and completely rebuild it - right?
    It absolutely does... buy the cheapest carbon build and replace it all with quality bike parts you have/ you like and still save a lot compared to price of higher builds. But it takes a lot of time/ tinkering/ and skill that some may not want to invest...

  106. #506
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    How much weight does the knock block add to frame weight? Anyone know..? Anyone here tried to remove that?
    Really wonder how Trek determined this is important feature of the bike of this caliber... is it really needed to protect Trek's frame because of **their** design of the headtube and connection to downtube/ toptube area?
    No one else is using and all other bikes seem do fine and less weight ..

  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    How much weight does the knock block add to frame weight? Anyone know..? Anyone here tried to remove that?


    Knock block hardware probably weighs a few grams but I'm sure it's more than offset by a slightly lighter downtube. I don't know why you'd want to remove it. Buy the bike or don't I say.
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  108. #508
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    My 9.8 GX s over the stated weight also. Although the weight on the web says it is for a med, and I bought a m/l. This stuff is a double edge sword. Some bike manufacturers refuse to post weights. Some pick a "ringer", and others just lie. Mine is a full 500 grams over the stated weight, without pedals, reflectors, dork disk, or safety stickers. Life goes on, I live the bike. I noticed the XT version is listed at almost a pound heavier. I wonder if it is really components, or just a weight based on a production bike.

  109. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaycj View Post
    My 9.8 GX s over the stated weight also. Although the weight on the web says it is for a med, and I bought a m/l. This stuff is a double edge sword. Some bike manufacturers refuse to post weights. Some pick a "ringer", and others just lie. Mine is a full 500 grams over the stated weight, without pedals, reflectors, dork disk, or safety stickers. Life goes on, I live the bike. I noticed the XT version is listed at almost a pound heavier. I wonder if it is really components, or just a weight based on a production bike.
    Similar dont have exact weight off top head but with bontrager pedals and a bottle cage mine was just under 28 pounds. Relatively respectful for a bike that can handle trail duty, dropper, heavy cassette and crankset, hopefully crankset and cassette change at somepoint than light faster rear tire will make it XC and Marathon worthy when needed (not that it isn't out of the box run what you brung, but no harm in upgrades either).
    XC, Road, XXC, Endurance, Mtn, All-Mtn, Cross, Gravel, just go have fun on 2 wheels!

  110. #510
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    This thread needs more pics.

  111. #511
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    Anyone weight a 9.9 XTR without tubes yet? I am considering getting that in a Large for local XC races and general trail fun. The local bike shop said it was listed as around 42 days out from order

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tort40 View Post
    Anyone weight a 9.9 XTR without tubes yet? I am considering getting that in a Large for local XC races and general trail fun. The local bike shop said it was listed as around 42 days out from order
    Those stock tubes weight ~235g each, so you would end up loosing ~1lb of weight from the 25.38 lbs weight spec.
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  113. #513
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    [email protected]: the RS Pike Ultimate with remote lockout on the 9.9 AXS is a OEM only fork, is that right?

  114. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    [email protected]: the RS Pike Ultimate with remote lockout on the 9.9 AXS is a OEM only fork, is that right?
    It's not something we sell on it's own if that is what you're asking.
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  115. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    It's not something we sell on it's own if that is what you're asking.
    Thats clear. Just cannot find a Pike Ultimate with remote to buy online. For that reason I think its a OEM Pike only for the TF AXS.

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Those stock tubes weight ~235g each, so you would end up loosing ~1lb of weight from the 25.38 lbs weight spec.
    Plus sealant...

    My M/L 9.9 (xx1) was ~1.5 pounds over the M claimed weight with sealant. I'm honestly not sure how to drop additional weight besides high posting. But it looks great.. spending a lot of time with it over the weekend.

    Pics were too big to embed so here's a gallery on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/d0uKyUd

  117. #517
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    linds0r your bike looks so nice! What riding have you done with it? How capable is this bike? What kind of stuff do you ride?

  118. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Another interesting thing: the German Bike Magazin found out that the rear travel of their testbike - 2020 TF 9.9 XX1 - was between 123 mm (in the low position) and 131 mm (in the high position).
    Hi Petejupp. I do not live in Germany but would LOVE to read this review as I have seen several other Bike Magazine articles translated to in english and they are comprehensive and awesome.

    Do you have link or soft copy of the article?

  119. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimphatty View Post
    linds0r your bike looks so nice! What riding have you done with it? How capable is this bike? What kind of stuff do you ride?
    Thanks! Nothing yet -- first ride tomorrow. But I intend to use it as my XC race bike.

    The remote lockout completely firms up the fork but the rear only get mildly firmer. Anyone know if that's intended?

  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    Thanks! Nothing yet -- first ride tomorrow. But I intend to use it as my XC race bike.

    The remote lockout completely firms up the fork but the rear only get mildly firmer. Anyone know if that's intended?
    Mine gets pretty firm. Is is likely that you need to adjust your barrel adjuster for the lockout cable.

  121. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    Mine gets pretty firm. Is is likely that you need to adjust your barrel adjuster for the lockout cable.
    Same. VERY firm. More cable tension needed.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Same. VERY firm. More cable tension needed.
    so if i didnt actually want it locked out i could leave some slack?

  123. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Thats clear. Just cannot find a Pike Ultimate with remote to buy online. For that reason I think its a OEM Pike only for the TF AXS.
    I think you just get SRAM's remote and install it with the Pike Ultimate...

  124. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishywishy View Post
    so if i didnt actually want it locked out i could leave some slack?
    Sure. And if you like it that way, you could even completely remove the cable.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  125. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    Mine gets pretty firm. Is is likely that you need to adjust your barrel adjuster for the lockout cable.
    This worked great. So is the low speed compression knob analog or two position adjust? In other words, can I find the right cable tension to lock out 85% instead of on/off?

    First ride today--bike rips. A little more initially plush in the suspension than I expected but then very supportive. Increased the shock 10 psi over recommended and might go a little higher.

  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishywishy View Post
    so if i didnt actually want it locked out i could leave some slack?
    I can't think of any circumstance where I would want the rear open and the front locked...

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    This worked great. So is the low speed compression knob analog or two position adjust? In other words, can I find the right cable tension to lock out 85% instead of on/off?

    First ride today--bike rips. A little more initially plush in the suspension than I expected but then very supportive. Increased the shock 10 psi over recommended and might go a little higher.
    It is a two position lock. It is designed to be on or off. I don't know, one way or the other, what the long term effects of leaving it partially engaged like that may be.

  128. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave_rh View Post
    Hi Petejupp. I do not live in Germany but would LOVE to read this review as I have seen several other Bike Magazine articles translated to in english and they are comprehensive and awesome.

    Do you have link or soft copy of the article?
    @dave_rh: Im sorry, but I dont have the magazine here. Just read this test at my LBS, who has subscribed the German Bike Magazin. Also, the review is not yet online on their website, only available in the printed version. Its issue no. 8/2019 if that helps.

    Regarding their tests: honestly, in my opinion their reviews are the most less meaningful tests compared for example with those from Pinbike, BikeMag or other online magazines. Thats the same with the other big player on the German magazine market: Mountainbike Magazin. They are mainstream magazines, if you know what I mean.

    The tests are way too short and in case of this review of the Top Fuel 9.9 XX1 the part where they describe how the bike performed on the trail is only a few lines. Nevertheless and interesting though: they check every detail of a test bike, weigh every part, measure stiffnesses of frames on their test stand and also find out what the travel of forks and shocks really is.

    And in case of the new Top Fuel they determined a much higher travel in the back than 115 mm. I guess thats something no other magazine found out.

  129. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksj View Post
    I think you just get SRAM's remote and install it with the Pike Ultimate...
    Im not sure if its really that easy: the new Pike Ultimate is available with the new 2.1 charger damper, as RC2 and RCT3 versions. The RC2 has no lockout, the RCT3 has open, trail and firm options. So it should be at least the RCT3 version of the Pike Ultimate if you want to be able to lockout the fork. If Im not wrong. Also, Im not able to find a RCT3-version of the Pike Ultimate to purchase online (at least not in Europe). Im pretty sure that the Pike Ultimate on the TF 9.9 AXS is OEM only...

  130. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Nevertheless and interesting though: they check every detail of a test bike, weigh every part, measure stiffnesses of frames on their test stand and also find out what the travel of forks and shocks really is.

    And in case of the new Top Fuel they determined a much higher travel in the back than 115 mm. I guess thats something no other magazine found out.
    Thanks Petejupp. I once read a Bike DE review of my current EX2014 29er. They measured the claimed 120mm rear travel as actually being 127mm in the real world.

    Now they have measured the 2020 top fuel with claimed 115 as really being 125-131mm. very similar.

    This reinforces my thoughts that the 2020 Top fuel is the true successor of the 2014-2016 120mm FEX 29er models which had that super fast XC feel to them, only a bit more slack head angle which is good. I will have to try one soon.

  131. #531
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    Deleted. Wrong thread!
    Last edited by kosmo; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:18 PM.
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  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Anybody that wants to swap the brand new Grip2 Factory 36 off my unridden 9.9 for a Pike RS Ultimat with remote lockout, PM me.

    Part of the ex-racer in me just won't die.....
    I have Reba RL 120mm 44mm offset with remote for trade/sale as well (comes from 9.7). Will to pay cash for the Pike Ultimate with remote... PM me as well if interested in any...

  133. #533
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    Trying to fit the 2 position remote lockout with "2018 Factory Series 34 FLOAT 29 FIT4 3POS ADJ" (obviously 3 position). Anyone done it?

    I am thinking if the pull of the cable on the twist lockout is long enough that the lockout on the fork will travel from open to locked, it might work.

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    Trying to fit the 2 position remote lockout with "2018 Factory Series 34 FLOAT 29 FIT4 3POS ADJ" (obviously 3 position). Anyone done it?

    I am thinking if the pull of the cable on the twist lockout is long enough that the lockout on the fork will travel from open to locked, it might work.
    What's the goal?

  135. #535
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    Anybody find the stock stem a little short? Ive got a medium 9.7 with the stock 60, thinking about a 70? Anybody else do this?

  136. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Anybody that wants to swap the brand new Grip2 Factory 36 off my unridden 9.9 for a Pike RS Ultimat with remote lockout, PM me.

    Part of the ex-racer in me just won't die.....
    You have a 36 on your TF? Dang...I am thinking about putting a 34 Elite 130mm on mine. If you meant 34, I may be willing to buy it outright. Please PM me if so. [email protected]!

  137. #537
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    I took my first ride on the TF 9.8 and loved it except at full extension, the dropper post is just a tad to tall. It won't go down into the seat tube any further. Is there a way to make it so that it doesn't extend all the way up? It is my first dropper.
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  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    You have a 36 on your TF? Dang...I am thinking about putting a 34 Elite 130mm on mine. If you meant 34, I may be willing to buy it outright. Please PM me if so. [email protected]!
    Sorry, my bad. Meant to post that on the FEX thread!

    I'll edit my post.
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  139. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandyeggo View Post
    I took my first ride on the TF 9.8 and loved it except at full extension, the dropper post is just a tad to tall. It won't go down into the seat tube any further. Is there a way to make it so that it doesn't extend all the way up? It is my first dropper.
    Trek sells reducers. I think there is a 10mm or a 30mm. It is pretty easy to install for you or your shop. You would have to have your shop order the part.

  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoshJosh View Post
    Trek sells reducers. I think there is a 10mm or a 30mm. It is pretty easy to install for you or your shop. You would have to have your shop order the part.
    I asked Trek about this. The Bontrager Elite dropper does not have a way to reduce travel.

    Edit - I have the same issue. About 20mm too long.

  141. #541
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    The 9.8 is pretty disappointing. Should have xt brakes, elite suspension...

    Would take dt swiss m1700 wheels on it to get better suspension and brakes.


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  142. #542
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    On the subject of forks, I am thinking of swapping my Reba RL with a Fox 34 Performance Elite at 130mm. What are the potential issues with this? I don't race. I just like a good climbing, light and capable trail bike (like most of us I bet...)Is there a way that y'all know of to add a remote to the Fox fork? It comes with the three position switch. Not a huge deal if not. I very rarely use the lock out now...

  143. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandyeggo View Post
    I took my first ride on the TF 9.8 and loved it except at full extension, the dropper post is just a tad to tall. It won't go down into the seat tube any further. Is there a way to make it so that it doesn't extend all the way up? It is my first dropper.
    I'm between two size and I was initially planning to select M/L size but then I calculated the minimum distance from center of bottom bracket to top of the saddle and noticed that it wont go down enough for me. I did select then the size M where I can raise a seatpost about two centimeters from the bottom position..

  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    On the subject of forks, I am thinking of swapping my Reba RL with a Fox 34 Performance Elite at 130mm. What are the potential issues with this? I don't race. I just like a good climbing, light and capable trail bike (like most of us I bet...)Is there a way that y'all know of to add a remote to the Fox fork? It comes with the three position switch. Not a huge deal if not. I very rarely use the lock out now...
    I've been waiting for someone to go the 130mm fork option.

    a 130mm fork will slacken the bike by almost half a degree so the new head angle will be 67.05 in low and 67.55 in high. The seat angle will also slacken by half a degree. It will add a few mm of stack, reduce reach by a few mm, add a few mm of bb height and reduce bb drop by a mm or 2.

    I think it will make the top fuel into a huge fun trail bike with fast pedalling platform.

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksj View Post
    I asked Trek about this. The Bontrager Elite dropper does not have a way to reduce travel.

    Edit - I have the same issue. About 20mm too long.
    Looking at the service manual for the regular line dropper, it appears very similar to the old drop line. My guess is that the elite is also similar and I would not be at all surprised if the travel reducer can be put on the elite too.

  146. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave_rh View Post
    I've been waiting for someone to go the 130mm fork option.

    a 130mm fork will slacken the bike by almost half a degree so the new head angle will be 67.05 in low and 67.55 in high. The seat angle will also slacken by half a degree. It will add a few mm of stack, reduce reach by a few mm, add a few mm of bb height and reduce bb drop by a mm or 2.

    I think it will make the top fuel into a huge fun trail bike with fast pedalling platform.
    That all sounds like positive changes to me (other than the seat tube angle). I would likely lower my stem height 5-10mm to counteract the reach change. I may also consider running the bike in the high setting...

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksj View Post
    I asked Trek about this. The Bontrager Elite dropper does not have a way to reduce travel.

    Edit - I have the same issue. About 20mm too long.
    That is unfortunately incorrect.

    W564787 - 10mm
    W564788 - 30mm

    It specifically calls these out as compatible with the Elite on the dealer portal.

  148. #548
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    Thank you. I wonder why Trek's online customer service didn't know this. I specifically asked if the spacers from the regular line dropper would fit and was told no.

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave_rh View Post
    I've been waiting for someone to go the 130mm fork option.

    a 130mm fork will slacken the bike by almost half a degree so the new head angle will be 67.05 in low and 67.55 in high. The seat angle will also slacken by half a degree. It will add a few mm of stack, reduce reach by a few mm, add a few mm of bb height and reduce bb drop by a mm or 2.

    I think it will make the top fuel into a huge fun trail bike with fast pedalling platform.
    I'll likely go this route this winter. I enjoy the lockout system, but it feels absolutely unnecessary for where I ride. I'm considering putting a pike ultimate up front and selling off the SC and the twistloc. Too bad the SC can't be extended.

  150. #550
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    Coming back to the fork on the TF 9.8...

    I was just reading this review here:

    https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_...e-review-r7826

    Quote 1: "The excellent Fox 34 Step-Cast Performance fork is paired with a Float DPS shock."
    Quote 2: "The Fox 34 SC was developed exactly for type of riding the Top Fuel is hoping to produce and does the job with excellence."
    Quote 3: "As mentioned, the Fox 34 SC is the go to fork for a short travel bike like the Top Fuel. The dedicated 120 mm platform provides ample stiffness with a suspension tune and weight that really suits both the XC and trail worlds. And there is little reason to scoff at the Performance level fork, its superb."

    I think I will give that fork a chance ;-)

    In the meantime Ive slightly changed my order and added the Kovee Pros to my TF P1.

  151. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoshJosh View Post
    That is unfortunately incorrect.

    W564787 - 10mm
    W564788 - 30mm

    It specifically calls these out as compatible with the Elite on the dealer portal.
    Thanks for this. I'm not a huge fan of droppers (I know, I know) so I'm thinking the 30mm might be best - I'd rather err on having too less travel than too much.
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  152. #552
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    what kind of wheels did you go with? Did you keep the 30mm internal width/ .

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    I had a TF9.8 since late June. Lots of riding. Be sure to check all linkage bolts etc after a few hundred miles. I doubt the suspension lockout will last a full year on these bikes - is already showing signs of sticking, etc...
    The one area that I am really struggling is the wheelset. Trek is using a proprietary rim strip that seems to make it VERY difficult to unseat the bead when changing tires. You have to stand on the tire and yank the rim hard. I have been doing tubeless since the very beginning with stans rim strips 20 years ago - and I have never seen such a challenging wheel to dismount and mount tires. The last time I was wrestling a maxxis 2.4 Rekon on - the tire lever nicked this unique rim strip such that I need to order a new one for $30! Cant we use rim tape like everybody else? This specialized rim strip part is not helpful when out of town and encounter an issue. I also think many owners are going to struggle dismounting tires. I think trek went overboard with worrying about tires coming off the rim - trailside repair is going to be brutal.
    Looking for a new 30mm internal wheelset now.

  154. #554
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtc1 View Post
    I had a TF9.8 since late June. Lots of riding. Be sure to check all linkage bolts etc after a few hundred miles. I doubt the suspension lockout will last a full year on these bikes - is already showing signs of sticking, etc...
    The one area that I am really struggling is the wheelset. Trek is using a proprietary rim strip that seems to make it VERY difficult to unseat the bead when changing tires. You have to stand on the tire and yank the rim hard. I have been doing tubeless since the very beginning with stans rim strips 20 years ago - and I have never seen such a challenging wheel to dismount and mount tires. The last time I was wrestling a maxxis 2.4 Rekon on - the tire lever nicked this unique rim strip such that I need to order a new one for $30! Cant we use rim tape like everybody else? This specialized rim strip part is not helpful when out of town and encounter an issue. I also think many owners are going to struggle dismounting tires. I think trek went overboard with worrying about tires coming off the rim - trailside repair is going to be brutal.
    Looking for a new 30mm internal wheelset now.
    What kind of riding are you doing? Anything realy techy? I'm kinda looking for the top fuel to do it all but mostly techy xc riding with long days in the saddle.

  155. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtc1 View Post
    I had a TF9.8 since late June. Lots of riding. Be sure to check all linkage bolts etc after a few hundred miles. I doubt the suspension lockout will last a full year on these bikes - is already showing signs of sticking, etc...
    The one area that I am really struggling is the wheelset. Trek is using a proprietary rim strip that seems to make it VERY difficult to unseat the bead when changing tires. You have to stand on the tire and yank the rim hard. I have been doing tubeless since the very beginning with stans rim strips 20 years ago - and I have never seen such a challenging wheel to dismount and mount tires. The last time I was wrestling a maxxis 2.4 Rekon on - the tire lever nicked this unique rim strip such that I need to order a new one for $30! Cant we use rim tape like everybody else? This specialized rim strip part is not helpful when out of town and encounter an issue. I also think many owners are going to struggle dismounting tires. I think trek went overboard with worrying about tires coming off the rim - trailside repair is going to be brutal.
    Looking for a new 30mm internal wheelset now.
    Just remove the rim strip and replace it with quality tubeless tape. I did that. I did use 29mm DT Swiss tape.

  156. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimphatty View Post
    What kind of riding are you doing? Anything realy techy? I'm kinda looking for the top fuel to do it all but mostly techy xc riding with long days in the saddle.
    I've got tons of time on the bike now. A series of unplanned events -- rain, snow and cold! -- found me in Moab with it, instead of our intended destination.

    The bike did great on Slickrock Trail, Rodeo, Mustang, Whirlygig, and Easy Does it, as well as climbing Hymasa and Captain Ahab.

    It was a bit overmatched descending Ahab, and generally in fast, downhill, square-edged chunk.

    A set of 2.6 tires (at home in garage!) would have improved things in that regard, but still wouldn't have turned it into a Slash. Duh!

    Overall, I was pleasantly surprised. It would get my vote for One Bike Quiver, if I had to go that route.
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  157. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    What's the goal?
    To use existing Fox 34 fork that already has a remote lockout installed but is 3 position and was used with 3 position lockout...

  158. #558
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    28.6 lb for XL in 9.7 (no pedals, no cage, no reflectors, no tubes, sealant installed). Everything stock..

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    28.6 lb for XL in 9.7 (no pedals, no cage, no reflectors, no tubes, sealant installed). Everything stock..
    I bet you can easily drop two to three pounds with better components. Thank you for this info since I'm building a XL aluminum top fuel. Fingers crossed it'll come in at 27lbs max with pedals and cage.

  160. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimphatty View Post
    I bet you can easily drop two to three pounds with better components. Thank you for this info since I'm building a XL aluminum top fuel. Fingers crossed it'll come in at 27lbs max with pedals and cage.
    That's probably a little too ambitious. My 9.9 M/L is 25.0 lbs with pedals and cage, but that's with XC tires and Kovee Pro wheels. Not sure mine can get any lighter.

  161. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    That's probably a little too ambitious. My 9.9 M/L is 25.0 lbs with pedals and cage, but that's with XC tires and Kovee Pro wheels. Not sure mine can get any lighter.
    Of interest; Comparing 2020 Top Fuel alloy and carbon frames weight. Information from the Trek USA website
    Alloy M frameset - 3.23 kg / 7.11 lbs
    Carbon M frameset - 2.46 kg / 5.43 lbs
    Difference 770 Grams / 1.68 lbs

    So basically the difference in weight is 1 water bottle.

  162. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    28.6 lb for XL in 9.7 (no pedals, no cage, no reflectors, no tubes, sealant installed). Everything stock..
    wow i was hoping to make a light weight trail bike out of this. at that weight i might as well get a trance or tallboy

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishywishy View Post
    wow i was hoping to make a light weight trail bike out of this. at that weight i might as well get a trance or tallboy
    That 28.6 lb weight is for the 9.7, the lowest carbon build. Similar price/spec Tallboy (R Carbon C) is 30.48 lb, and I'd guess that's for the medium. Interesting that even the highest level Tallboy is listed at well over 27lb.

  164. #564
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    AMB-Mag (issue 178) have tested the 2020 TF 9.9 XX1 in size m/l tubeless with 11,26 kg.

  165. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    AMB-Mag (issue 178) have tested the 2020 TF 9.9 XX1 in size m/l tubeless with 11,26 kg.
    Old 2017 TF9.8 was at 24.66lb but without the dropper and still had potential for slightly lower weight.
    I am also hoping to get 2020 right at 25 or maybe 1/2 lb over. it will require lots of swapping for XX1/ GX comps with race wheelset

  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    I am also hoping to get 2020 right at 25 or maybe 1/2 lb over.
    I think 25 would be fantastic considering:

    -trail tires
    -dropper
    -Fox 34
    -remote (hardware weight)

    The 9.9 claims 24.36 lb/no pedals. That would be nice, if accurate. Not sure how to do any better. Maybe XXX wheels.

  167. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    Old 2017 TF9.8 was at 24.66lb but without the dropper and still had potential for slightly lower weight.
    I am also hoping to get 2020 right at 25 or maybe 1/2 lb over. it will require lots of swapping for XX1/ GX comps with race wheelset
    Im going to use the AXS group (XX1 crank and X01 cassette) from my 2019 Remedy 9.8 on the TF; also the AXS Reverb seat post. Then I will also change to XTR brakes and after having ordered the Kovee Pros now I guess that I will be more satisfied with the weight.

  168. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by gartenmeister View Post
    That 28.6 lb weight is for the 9.7, the lowest carbon build. Similar price/spec Tallboy (R Carbon C) is 30.48 lb, and I'd guess that's for the medium. Interesting that even the highest level Tallboy is listed at well over 27lb.
    i was hoping to add a fox 34 130mm and wider rims. its true the tallboy got porkier too though

  169. #569
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    For those who have the Matte Carbon/Gloss Trek Black, how is the finish quality? Does the carbon part look raw, or gray, or just black? Is the glossy part subtle, or no? Good clear coat over everything or does the glossy part have a sharp edge? PICS???

  170. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by gartenmeister View Post
    for those who have the matte carbon/gloss trek black, how is the finish quality? Does the carbon part look raw, or gray, or just black? Is the glossy part subtle, or no? Good clear coat over everything or does the glossy part have a sharp edge? Pics???
    hth - It looks kind of like a grimy old bike that no one would pay attention to. It's perfect.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 Top Fuel Official Post-20191023_142304.jpg  

    2020 Top Fuel Official Post-20191023_142245.jpg  

    2020 Top Fuel Official Post-20191023_142122-copy.jpg  


  171. #571
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    Has anyone dialed in the shock? I'm using way too much travel on mellow trails and climbing. At over 10psi over recommended and it's still to soft. Thinking I may need to add volume spacers. What's default and max re spacers?

  172. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    Has anyone dialed in the shock? I'm using way too much travel on mellow trails and climbing. At over 10psi over recommended and it's still to soft. Thinking I may need to add volume spacers. What's default and max re spacers?
    The bike comes with a .4 installed. I think max on this shock is .6. I am sure someone will come along and correct me shortly...How much do you weigh? I had the opposite problem and had to reduce the volume spacer...

  173. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarbrough462 View Post
    The bike comes with a .4 installed. I think max on this shock is .6. I am sure someone will come along and correct me shortly...How much do you weigh? I had the opposite problem and had to reduce the volume spacer...
    160 lbs. Removing a spacer and adding more pressure might be the right way to go for mid travel support.

  174. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksj View Post
    hth - It looks kind of like a grimy old bike that no one would pay attention to. It's perfect.
    That's cool. Thanks for the photos; it looks good. Anyone else?

  175. #575
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    I have been trying to decide between red and black myself. I can get the red for $400 more from my dealer - just not sure it's worth it even though it looks great.

  176. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tort40 View Post
    I have been trying to decide between red and black myself. I can get the red for $400 more from my dealer - just not sure it's worth it even though it looks great.
    Why would they be different prices?

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    Why would they be different prices?
    The red is "Project One Now." So it is a P1 color scheme without other P1 options. Any P1 color has an upcharge, starting at $500.

  178. #578
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    Did anyone of you TF owners swap the handlebar for something wider and with maybe more rise?

  179. #579
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Did anyone of you TF owners swap the handlebar for something wider and with maybe more rise?
    For me at least, the included bars are a nice compromise between XC and trail. 750 width, super stiff 35mm clamp, and a subtle but meaningful rise. If I were to change it would be to a lighter setup, but then again I intend to use the bike for XC racing.

  180. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by gartenmeister View Post
    The red is "Project One Now." So it is a P1 color scheme without other P1 options. Any P1 color has an upcharge, starting at $500.
    The red is - lets say - the stock Project One, or the cheapest Project One Top Fuel.

    Project One Top Fuels are 1000 Dollars more expensive than the stock models right from the start. Even if you only chose the simple solid logo paint job. If you chose the Icon colors you have to add another 500 Dollars...

  181. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Did anyone of you TF owners swap the handlebar for something wider and with maybe more rise?
    I put on a 50mm 31.8 stem with a chromag osx alloy bar cut to 770mm. Honestly, the 35mm bonty bars are too stiff for my liking. So the extra width and subtraction of a stem length worked out perfectly. Feels pretty cherry for my type of trails.

  182. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Did anyone of you TF owners swap the handlebar for something wider and with maybe more rise?
    I went longer stem and narrower bars with less rise.

  183. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tort40 View Post
    I have been trying to decide between red and black myself. I can get the red for $400 more from my dealer - just not sure it's worth it even though it looks great.
    Should be picking up my VR 9.9 (XX1) tomorrow, it was worth it because the stock colors are terrible. It's just a little more money (in the grand scheme of things) and some wait time. Normally I'm not all that picky but black/black and teal/black/YELLOW? How about black and anything other than black? Red or white logos would have been fine, but black?

    I can't imagine a reason why their top end models (TF or SC!) don't have factory racing color schemes as a stock option.

  184. #584
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    Quote Originally Posted by richde View Post
    should be picking up my vr 9.9 (xx1) tomorrow
    pics!!!! Pleeese!!

  185. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by gartenmeister View Post
    pics!!!! Pleeese!!
    Still in the box, I'll post pics by the end of the week


    Even though the weight is listed with tubes, the wheels are already set up tubeless and there appear to be no tubes in the box.

  186. #586
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    Waiting to go riding for photos, but Viper Red is definitely more flashy than I expected. It's way up there on the "Look at me" scale, especially with the big white "Trek Factory Racing" and downright huge "Top Fuel" on the top tube. The Madone sized TREK on the down tube seems tame in comparison.

    Tires stretched out to 60mm/2.36", Trek's rear suspension suggestion was way low, rebound suggestions are faster than Fox's guidance, and I'm not sure a way exists to make six cables coming off the bars look neat and tidy. The freehub is refreshingly quiet compared to the Line Pro 40's on my Stache and the parts box includes all the parts required to independently mount the shifter and dropper lever.

    Coming off four years of riding Staches (9 to 9.8), this is going to be interesting. Want to give the XR3 front tire a chance as an all around but considering a XR4/3 mix for regular riding and 3/3 for endurance racing.

  187. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by richde View Post
    Waiting to go riding for photos, but Viper Red is definitely more flashy than I expected. It's way up there on the "Look at me" scale, especially with the big white "Trek Factory Racing" and downright huge "Top Fuel" on the top tube. The Madone sized TREK on the down tube seems tame in comparison.

    Tires stretched out to 60mm/2.36", Trek's rear suspension suggestion was way low, rebound suggestions are faster than Fox's guidance, and I'm not sure a way exists to make six cables coming off the bars look neat and tidy. The freehub is refreshingly quiet compared to the Line Pro 40's on my Stache and the parts box includes all the parts required to independently mount the shifter and dropper lever.

    Coming off four years of riding Staches (9 to 9.8), this is going to be interesting. Want to give the XR3 front tire a chance as an all around but considering a XR4/3 mix for regular riding and 3/3 for endurance racing.
    I guess the only way to have a cleaner look at the front of the Top Fuel is AXS (dropper and drivetrain) if you want to keep the lockouts...

  188. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by richde View Post
    Waiting to go riding for photos, but Viper Red is definitely more flashy than I expected. It's way up there on the "Look at me" scale, especially with the big white "Trek Factory Racing" and downright huge "Top Fuel" on the top tube. The Madone sized TREK on the down tube seems tame in comparison.

    Tires stretched out to 60mm/2.36", Trek's rear suspension suggestion was way low, rebound suggestions are faster than Fox's guidance, and I'm not sure a way exists to make six cables coming off the bars look neat and tidy. The freehub is refreshingly quiet compared to the Line Pro 40's on my Stache and the parts box includes all the parts required to independently mount the shifter and dropper lever.

    Coming off four years of riding Staches (9 to 9.8), this is going to be interesting. Want to give the XR3 front tire a chance as an all around but considering a XR4/3 mix for regular riding and 3/3 for endurance racing.
    Cable management: https://imgur.com/gallery/d0uKyUd

  189. #589
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    I did weigh the 9.8GX original wheelset. The kovee elite 30 wheelset weight is 1804g including freehub, DT Swiss tubeless tape + bontrager tubeless valves.

  190. #590
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    I'd like to see de visu and not only in picture a top ful but no one here in my town in Italy. I went to LBS and could see a Fuel EX 2020 black alu. They told me Top Fuel 2020 is the same only difference is 115 vs 130mm. Is it true?
    Thanks
    Ernesto

  191. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by edibetta View Post
    They told me Top Fuel 2020 is the same only difference is 115 vs 130mm. Is it true?
    Thanks
    Ernesto
    No, compare the bikes on Trek.com

    They're different animals.

  192. #592
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    Quote Originally Posted by edibetta View Post
    I'd like to see de visu and not only in picture a top ful but no one here in my town in Italy. I went to LBS and could see a Fuel EX 2020 black alu. They told me Top Fuel 2020 is the same only difference is 115 vs 130mm. Is it true?
    Thanks
    Ernesto
    Hi Ernesto,

    I own both. They are very different. IMO, more so than the travel difference would lead one to believe. Besides more travel, the Fuel EX is a much sturdier frame. I think of it as a mini-Slash. The Top Fuel is more fun and "zippier" on regular trails, while the Fuel EX is much smoother and more capable on rough trails.

    Feel free to PM me, or post here, if you have any specific questions.

    Cheers!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Hi Ernesto,

    I own both. They are very different. IMO, more so than the travel difference would lead one to believe. Besides more travel, the Fuel EX is a much sturdier frame. I think of it as a mini-Slash. The Top Fuel is more fun and "zippier" on regular trails, while the Fuel EX is much smoother and more capable on rough trails.

    Feel free to PM me, or post here, if you have any specific questions.

    Cheers!
    I am very interested in more of your thoughts between the bikes especially in climbing with out the lockout.

    I have a 18 ex with the reactive shock and a 140 for and its been great but I do have a want for something more XC especially since I am doing the BC bike race this year. Do you feel there is a big enough difference between the two. The main thing holding me back is curious if the bikes are too similar. I understand the reason for going away from the re-aktive is for a firm lockout but how does it perform in open mode. Is there much platform support?

    Thanks ahead of time.
    "Powder River, Let 'er Buck"

  194. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdimon View Post
    I am very interested in more of your thoughts between the bikes especially in climbing with out the lockout.

    I have a 18 ex with the reactive shock and a 140 for and its been great but I do have a want for something more XC especially since I am doing the BC bike race this year. Do you feel there is a big enough difference between the two. The main thing holding me back is curious if the bikes are too similar. I understand the reason for going away from the re-aktive is for a firm lockout but how does it perform in open mode. Is there much platform support?

    Thanks ahead of time.
    I had an 18 Fuel EX myself. I asked your exact question here before I bought my 2020 TF. It is WAY better climbing. The specs don't say there should be this big a difference but there is...The pedaling platform, even unlocked, is super supportive. I only use my lockout on pavement...

  195. #595
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdimon View Post
    I am very interested in more of your thoughts between the bikes especially in climbing with out the lockout.

    I have a 18 ex with the reactive shock and a 140 for and its been great but I do have a want for something more XC especially since I am doing the BC bike race this year. Do you feel there is a big enough difference between the two. The main thing holding me back is curious if the bikes are too similar. I understand the reason for going away from the re-aktive is for a firm lockout but how does it perform in open mode. Is there much platform support?

    Thanks ahead of time.
    Short answer: Top Fuel for the BCBR, no question. Maybe with a 130 fork.

    The TF not only has less travel than the FEX, but it is firmer travel. Great climbing, even when not locked out. The lockout is very firm. Almost useless in the dirt, but great on those inevitable gravel road sections.

    There will be some overlap between the TF and your 18 FEX, but not much at all, and close to none when comparing to the 20 FEX.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  196. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by gartenmeister View Post
    For those who have the Matte Carbon/Gloss Trek Black, how is the finish quality? Does the carbon part look raw, or gray, or just black? Is the glossy part subtle, or no? Good clear coat over everything or does the glossy part have a sharp edge? PICS???
    It is perfectly represented on the website. I was surprised myself to see that it is not a flat carbon color it is (just like on the website close-ups so I should have known) in fact nude carbon with the matte clear coat. Looks fantastic if being able to see the carbon layers sheen independently of each other (especially at the joints). I thought that it would have a matte carbon colored paint job (similar to how Santa Cruz handle's their carbon colored bikes) and I thought that the images on Trek's website were just taken before they could have applied the paint (silly I know) but I'm not upset with it. Took a while to grow on me but it's cool to see the carbon and it really matches the fork and wheels brilliantly. Matte clear coat is over the entire carbon frame and the glossy parts (very sparkly black) are layered on top of of the matte clear coat and have a shiny coating of their own. Gives the glossy parts a sharp edge that feels almost as if they are really fancy decals. Overall it's a great paint job but I think I would go with the two tone fade next year if the colors stayed the same.

  197. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Short answer: Top Fuel for the BCBR, no question. Maybe with a 130 fork.

    The TF not only has less travel than the FEX, but it is firmer travel. Great climbing, even when not locked out. The lockout is very firm. Almost useless in the dirt, but great on those inevitable gravel road sections.

    There will be some overlap between the TF and your 18 FEX, but not much at all, and close to none when comparing to the 20 FEX.
    I agree Top Fuel would be perfect for BCBR as is. Don't add a longer fork.

    I'm still dialing in my shock, but I would say that the pedaling platform is good but not super supportive, as compared to something with high anti-squat, like a Pivot Mach 4 SL. (At least at the Trek calculated/recommended pressure. I finally got the right amount of sag by adding 25 psi.) I use the lock out fairly often, but then again that's one of the reasons I bought the bike. I'm going to keep experimenting with pressure and volume spacers.

  198. #598
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Short answer: Top Fuel for the BCBR, no question. Maybe with a 130 fork.

    The TF not only has less travel than the FEX, but it is firmer travel. Great climbing, even when not locked out. The lockout is very firm. Almost useless in the dirt, but great on those inevitable gravel road sections.

    There will be some overlap between the TF and your 18 FEX, but not much at all, and close to none when comparing to the 20 FEX.
    Agreed, having ridden both I would label the TF as the BCBR version of the FEX. With this TF I would never ride a TF again, as if I wanted a heavier slacker TF I would just get a Slash and have a bike that climbs almost as well as the FEX but can descend with the best of them (plus I like races so Slash would be more suited to enduro racing than the FEX). The Slash and TF being such good bikes that can do so much that the TF feels like too much of a muddled middle ground to me. Not quite as fast or good at climbing as the new TF but almost not as good at chunk and descending as the Slash. It's likely just me but I feel like the FEX (my previous 3 bikes) are a bike created with the worst of both worlds.

  199. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by drdocta View Post
    The Slash and TF being such good bikes that can do so much that the TF feels like too much of a muddled middle ground to me.
    I think you mean the FEX is the muddled middle ground.

  200. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by linds0r View Post
    I agree Top Fuel would be perfect for BCBR as is. Don't add a longer fork.

    I'm still dialing in my shock, but I would say that the pedaling platform is good but not super supportive, as compared to something with high anti-squat, like a Pivot Mach 4 SL. (At least at the Trek calculated/recommended pressure. I finally got the right amount of sag by adding 25 psi.) I use the lock out fairly often, but then again that's one of the reasons I bought the bike. I'm going to keep experimenting with pressure and volume spacers.
    After increasing your pressures do you feel it is close to the 4sl for being pedaling. The 4sl is the other bike I am considering but prices are significantly more
    "Powder River, Let 'er Buck"

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