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  1. #1401
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    It looks like you have the new Cane Creek Trunion mount designed specifically for the Slash.

    Mine is the regular version (eyeletts at both sides) and it contains a slotted spacer and a bit more clearance. As long as it doesn't hit your frame you should be fine.

    https://ibb.co/WDKwyC4
    https://ibb.co/Vp8gZ99

  2. #1402
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    2017 Trek Slash details

    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    It looks like you have the new Cane Creek Trunion mount designed specifically for the Slash.

    Mine is the regular version (eyeletts at both sides) and it contains a slotted spacer and a bit more clearance. As long as it doesn't hit your frame you should be fine.

    https://ibb.co/WDKwyC4
    https://ibb.co/Vp8gZ99
    This one is eyelets too

    Looks like I need to remove the bottom hardware and take off the coil and bottom it out and see if it hits.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #1403
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    Also measure the stroke length and make sure it is 57.5-60mm. Remember to measure all the way to the ends as the theoretical bottom out is when the bumper is fully compressed.

    Also, what is your weight geared up? I noticed youíre running a 450lb spring.

    I am 155lbs geared up and at 32-33% sag with a 400lb spring and 28-29% sag with a 450lb spring. 450 works well for me at bike parks and 400 works everywhere else although 450 puts me in a better climbing position. 425lb would be ideal to be honest but u fortunately that spring rate is not available from Cane Creek

  4. #1404
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Also measure the stroke length and make sure it is 57.5-60mm. Remember to measure all the way to the ends as the theoretical bottom out is when the bumper is fully compressed.

    Also, what is your weight geared up? I noticed youíre running a 450lb spring.

    I am 155lbs geared up and at 32-33% sag with a 400lb spring and 28-29% sag with a 450lb spring. 450 works well for me at bike parks and 400 works everywhere else although 450 puts me in a better climbing position. 425lb would be ideal to be honest but u fortunately that spring rate is not available from Cane Creek
    160lbs geared up


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #1405
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    2017 Trek Slash details

    Just so other people know and donít freak out like I did it appears that itís normal to have that much clearance on the shock from cane creek.(hereís other riders bikes )





    Cane creeks response to the spacer

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by traditiionalist; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:57 AM.

  6. #1406
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    That's awesome, I'm glad you got that sorted out. You'll probably be at exactly 30% sag with that spring rate. If you do lots of hucking, you'll need to dial a bit more HSC otherwise I feel the slash has enough progression where you don't need that much.
    I've got my LSR a bit faster for lots of grip and my HSR slowed down quite a bit to prevent bucking me off the bike for big hits.
    For the 400lb spring I have on currently, I got my HSC dialed about half way but with the 450lb spring, I left it almost all the way open. LSC is 4-5 clicks from fully open to give it some pedalling support. I use the Climb switch all the time though. If you don't like using the climb switch, add 10-15 clicks of LSC otherwise you will suffer in the climbs.
    Have fun with the new Coil, it totally transforms the Slash!!!

  7. #1407
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    2.6 semi fat tires??

    I've been experimenting with 2.6" Tires and comparing them with 2.5" WT tires. I know it's an Enduro bike but these days we are seeing 2.6 tires speced out on the Remedy, the Specialized Enduro and a few other long travel bikes.

    My wheels are 35mm inner width so I figure they would work best with wider tires. With my weight and areas I ride, punctures aren't much of a problem and Maxxis EXO casing is plenty tough for me. Thus I figure I go with XR4/5 tires rather than SE4/5 tires.

    After 2 months of riding, I can say these tires are plenty tough. The Carcass measures 2.58" and the knob to knob is a very wide 2.67". On my DHF tires, the carcass measures 2.42" and knob to knob measures 2.56". I measured this after 2 months of use so the tires are pretty much fully stretched out.

    Another thing to note if anyone wants to go this route is the overall diameter of the tire is a good 1/4" or so taller than the DHF's. The 29x2.5 DHF measures about 29.25" diameter. My 2.6 XR4/XR5 tires measure 29.5-29.7" so it's noticeably bigger. With this said, there is ample mud and tire clearance with this setup.

    I used to run 2.5" DHF tires front and rear and I can say for most conditions, I prefer the 2.6" tires. I used to run 20 psi front, 24psi rear for the Maxxis tires. With the 2.6 tires, I am running 17psi front and 20psi rear. The ride quality with lower pressure was like night and day difference. The Bontrager tires just roll better and seems to carry speed better due to the larger diameter and lower air pressures. The intermediate knobs on the XR4 and Wider center knobs on the XR5 is super predictable and great for trail riding. One problem I have with DHF tires is I can stick my thumb in between the center and side knobs which means there's a dead spot on the DHF and it's led to a handful of times where I washed out the front wheel on lazy half ass turns. I think the Assagai would work better as I prefer intermediate knobs or wider center knobs. The DHF's have it beat however for very loose conditions as the knobs are taller. Overall however I am quite pleased with the set up and the bike looks pretty beefy with the setup...

    Pic below shows the difference in height between 2.5" DHF and 2.6" XR5.
    The roll over affect of the bigger wheel is noticeable!!!

    2017 Trek Slash details-img_1018.jpg2017 Trek Slash details-img_0879.jpg

  8. #1408
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    I've been experimenting with 2.6" Tires and comparing them with 2.5" WT tires. I know it's an Enduro bike but these days we are seeing 2.6 tires speced out on the Remedy, the Specialized Enduro and a few other long travel bikes.

    My wheels are 35mm inner width so I figure they would work best with wider tires. With my weight and areas I ride, punctures aren't much of a problem and Maxxis EXO casing is plenty tough for me. Thus I figure I go with XR4/5 tires rather than SE4/5 tires.

    After 2 months of riding, I can say these tires are plenty tough. The Carcass measures 2.58" and the knob to knob is a very wide 2.67". On my DHF tires, the carcass measures 2.42" and knob to knob measures 2.56". I measured this after 2 months of use so the tires are pretty much fully stretched out.

    Another thing to note if anyone wants to go this route is the overall diameter of the tire is a good 1/4" or so taller than the DHF's. The 29x2.5 DHF measures about 29.25" diameter. My 2.6 XR4/XR5 tires measure 29.5-29.7" so it's noticeably bigger. With this said, there is ample mud and tire clearance with this setup.

    I used to run 2.5" DHF tires front and rear and I can say for most conditions, I prefer the 2.6" tires. I used to run 20 psi front, 24psi rear for the Maxxis tires. With the 2.6 tires, I am running 17psi front and 20psi rear. The ride quality with lower pressure was like night and day difference. The Bontrager tires just roll better and seems to carry speed better due to the larger diameter and lower air pressures. The intermediate knobs on the XR4 and Wider center knobs on the XR5 is super predictable and great for trail riding. One problem I have with DHF tires is I can stick my thumb in between the center and side knobs which means there's a dead spot on the DHF and it's led to a handful of times where I washed out the front wheel on lazy half ass turns. I think the Assagai would work better as I prefer intermediate knobs or wider center knobs. The DHF's have it beat however for very loose conditions as the knobs are taller. Overall however I am quite pleased with the set up and the bike looks pretty beefy with the setup...

    Pic below shows the difference in height between 2.5" DHF and 2.6" XR5.
    The roll over affect of the bigger wheel is noticeable!!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks like I'll be trying that setup when I wear out my current tires. Im running my tried and true setup of 2.5 wt dhf and aggressor combo. Front is 23psi, rear is 26 psi with cush core, any less pressure I start to hit rim.

    So other people curious about the coil know, I removed the spring and bottomed out the shock, it does NOT contact the frame, but does hit the cables. Im not worried about cable contact as its barely touching (although the sharp edge of the piggyback will probably cut into the cable over time ).

  9. #1409
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    Mine has been scraping the right side cable for about 1500 miles and 10 months. Iím still on the original shifter cable and cable housing but when its time to change cable, i may have to change cable housings also as it may be harder to feed the cable through due to the kink in the housing caused by the shock.

  10. #1410
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Mine has been scraping the right side cable for about 1500 miles and 10 months. Iím still on the original shifter cable and cable housing but when its time to change cable, i may have to change cable housings also as it may be harder to feed the cable through due to the kink in the housing caused by the shock.
    Have you bottomed it out pretty hard yet? wondering if that will eventually become a problem(as in if you bottom out hard enough that it could damage the frame).

  11. #1411
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    My shock's stroke is set to 60mm. I will typically bottom out once every other ride and have bottomed out very hard perhaps 7-10 times. This was especially the case with the 400lb spring with little HSC or when I was experimenting with a 350lb spring. I don't believe you would damage the frame as it's not pinching the shift cable hard enough to completely damage the cable.
    If you are further concerned, you should consider adding a 2.5mm spacer to reduce stroke to 57.5mm. Another option is to grind down the reservoir edge a bit. It's just a thin fin (heat sink) area so it's not a big deal. That said your shock is still under warranty and mine is not so you probably shouldn't go this route.

  12. #1412
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    My shock's stroke is set to 60mm. I will typically bottom out once every other ride and have bottomed out very hard perhaps 7-10 times. This was especially the case with the 400lb spring with little HSC or when I was experimenting with a 350lb spring. I don't believe you would damage the frame as it's not pinching the shift cable hard enough to completely damage the cable.
    If you are further concerned, you should consider adding a 2.5mm spacer to reduce stroke to 57.5mm. Another option is to grind down the reservoir edge a bit. It's just a thin fin (heat sink) area so it's not a big deal. That said your shock is still under warranty and mine is not so you probably shouldn't go this route.
    Thanks for the info, now I just need the proper lower bolt to arrive, I mistakenly ordered the upper and lower bolt kit from trek through dexter, not thinking that the lower bolt is for full floater bikes. Oh well, should be ready to ride in 5 days or so.

  13. #1413
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    2017 Trek Slash details

    Can we expect a new Slash to be presented sometime during 2019 (MY2020)? Maybe a better question, how long does TREK usually stay with the same model?

  14. #1414
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    Lower shock bolt finally came in today, stoked to ride it tomorrow.
    2017 Trek Slash details-p5pb16717392.jpg

  15. #1415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    Can we expect a new Slash to be presented sometime during 2019 (MY2020)? Maybe a better question, how long does TREK usually stay with the same model?
    Iíd bet the new slash is 2021.

  16. #1416
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    Congrats, its looking Great!!

  17. #1417
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Congrats, its looking Great!!
    Thanks, is your HSC knob hard to turn (as in it takes a litte bit of force to turn it)?

  18. #1418
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    Yea, itís a lot harder to turn and doesnt ďclickĒ
    Donít overdo it, you can easily break/strip it!!!

  19. #1419
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Yea, itís a lot harder to turn and doesnt ďclickĒ
    Donít overdo it, you can easily break/strip it!!!
    Still at the factory 2 out of 4, I added about a quarter turn to the hsc

  20. #1420
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    Got a solid ride in. Dialed out the lsc from factory settings by 4 clicks, and put a quarter turn in on hsc and hsr. Really love the feel of the coil, bombing down rocky hills it handles really well, and the climbing capabilities even without the climb switch on is impressive. Overall, 110% recommended. I added a 1.3mm spacer under the bottom out bumper and there is no cable contact.
    2017 Trek Slash details-image-2019-01-01.jpg

  21. #1421
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    Another ride on the coil today, playing around with lsc and hsc. Figured I would try a decent size drop to a flat ish landing. While it did bottom out, I didnt feel any bottom out, no clunk. After I went and looked at the video was the only way to tell I bottomed. Very impressed with this shock.2017 Trek Slash details-img_0956%5B4613%5D.jpg
    (excuse the crappy cell phone still from a video )

  22. #1422
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    Quote Originally Posted by traditiionalist View Post
    Another ride on the coil today, playing around with lsc and hsc. Figured I would try a decent size drop to a flat ish landing. While it did bottom out, I didnt feel any bottom out, no clunk. After I went and looked at the video was the only way to tell I bottomed. Very impressed with this shock.Click image for larger version. 

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    (excuse the crappy cell phone still from a video )
    That is not a small drop - at least not by my standards! Thanks for posting your impressions of the shock! Edit: Would like to see the video!

  23. #1423
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    To me the part of this that pisses me off the most is that I canít just buy the stupid little nut by itself. It would probably sell for like $6. Instead I have to but a complete kit with bearings and a pivot bolt? That the big rip off. I bet 80% of slashes have a broken nut and the owners donít realize it. Even though my current one is snapped the threads are holding and the bolt is tight. Itís clearly a flawed design. The torque on that is quite high for such a tin piece of aluminum. Make it out of steel. Problem fixed.
    After seeing this I thought I would check mine as part of doing a bearing replacement, and sure enough it is cracked. That's not so much of a problem, I'll get it warrantied, but how on earth are people removing the bolt in order to then remove the chainstay to access the bearings?!
    The nut will come off fine, but then the bolt will just spin and not let itself be pulled free. I'm loath to have a shop do it since I have the tools and replacement parts to do the service, if only I could get the chainstay off

    2017 Trek Slash details-img_20190109_182334.jpg

  24. #1424
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    I have no idea if mine has this issue or not. Bike feels totally normal. What would happen if you continue to ride it with the crack?

  25. #1425
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    I've had the bike 2 years now, I don't know how long ago it cracked, but the bike has been fine, I haven't died! Would never have known without seeing the post about it


    My main problem is I can't remove the bolt to take the chainstay off to do a service. Has anybody done a lower frame bearing replacement themselves, or is it a case of drop it with a shop because it requires some Trek proprietary tool to do?

  26. #1426
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    The whole problem that sent me down this rabbit hole where I discovered the broken nut is that my bike had developed a pretty bad creak - as mentioned, the nut had probably been broken for a while but only discovered when taking things apart (maybe I would have been better off leaving it alone?!), at which point it actually cracked in half - unfortunately it seems that this was not the primary source of the creak, since the whole assembly has been replaced and the bike still creaks (although less) - I could not agree more that this would be a non-issue if we could just buy a replacement nut for a few bucks, or even better fix the flaw and produce one that doesn't break so easily

    Unfortunately, now I have a whole new problem - the threads on the nut for the bolt that go through the rocker appear to be stripped - I can keep turning the bolt and it does not tighten down to spec, but just keeps turning

    Why do they use such cheap, crappy hardware on premium bikes? To save weight? To save money? I'm wondering if i can just find a proper nut at the hardware store that will fit?

  27. #1427
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    I've had the bike 2 years now, I don't know how long ago it cracked, but the bike has been fine, I haven't died! Would never have known without seeing the post about it


    My main problem is I can't remove the bolt to take the chainstay off to do a service. Has anybody done a lower frame bearing replacement themselves, or is it a case of drop it with a shop because it requires some Trek proprietary tool to do?
    The bolt did slide out with a bit of gentle tapping, but it did not come out easily

  28. #1428
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    I have no idea if mine has this issue or not. Bike feels totally normal. What would happen if you continue to ride it with the crack?
    You will probably be fine - I would just keep an eye on it - I can see the potential problem being if you need to take it apart for service

  29. #1429
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    The bolt did slide out with a bit of gentle tapping, but it did not come out easily
    I did think that might be the answer, the question is how 'gentle' is gentle! It feels like it needs a hefty thump. Did you put anything over the bolt threads? There doesn't seem enough bolt actually poking out to be good for more than a few taps

  30. #1430
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    Quote Originally Posted by icantride View Post
    I did think that might be the answer, the question is how 'gentle' is gentle! It feels like it needs a hefty thump. Did you put anything over the bolt threads? There doesn't seem enough bolt actually poking out to be good for more than a few taps
    I think what I ended up doing was sliding a long allen (can't remember the size) internally into the open end of the bolt and gently tapped it out with a mallet - the long allen fit perfectly into the bolt, almost like it was a tool made to remove it

  31. #1431
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    I didnít have the nut crack, but I did have the bolt crack at the last few threads on the bolt itself. This was on a Farley Ex 8 with essentially the same lower pivot hardware. Coincidently, I was having trouble getting the bolt removed to regrease, so I ordered a replacement through the LBS in case I somehow damaged it during removal. I had to order a complete kit fo my frame as well - bolt, nut, bearings, and spacers.

  32. #1432
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    Mines not cracked

  33. #1433
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post

    Pic below shows the difference in height between 2.5" DHF and 2.6" XR5.
    The roll over affect of the bigger wheel is noticeable!!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Have you found the 2.6 XR5 to be the same size as the XR4?

  34. #1434
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    Wrong thread.

  35. #1435
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh8 View Post
    Wrong thread.
    Mainly asking because of clearance. Currently a 2.5 Aggressor in the rear on the Slash and surprised the XR4 2.6 clears that well. We found the 4 to be bigger than the 5 and the XR5 in the shop looked pretty close to what I would consider 'questionable' clearance in the mud.

  36. #1436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klainmeister View Post
    Mainly asking because of clearance. Currently a 2.5 Aggressor in the rear on the Slash and surprised the XR4 2.6 clears that well. We found the 4 to be bigger than the 5 and the XR5 in the shop looked pretty close to what I would consider 'questionable' clearance in the mud.
    Sorry. I meant I typed out a response in the wrong thread. Not aimed at you.

  37. #1437
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    Quote Originally Posted by traditiionalist View Post
    Thanks for the info, now I just need the proper lower bolt to arrive, I mistakenly ordered the upper and lower bolt kit from trek through dexter, not thinking that the lower bolt is for full floater bikes. Oh well, should be ready to ride in 5 days or so.
    Could you please let fellow riders know the exact part numbers for the bolts required when converting to coil? That's a Trek part, not supplied by Cane Creek if I understand correctly, right?

  38. #1438
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    2017 Slash Hardware

    Looks like some part numbers are needed! Here is a chart of all the hardware (minus the cable routing guides) for the 2017 Slash!

    Also, for those of you with the cracked nut, if you are the original owner, I would suggest reaching out to the warranty team for replacement! Your local Trek dealer would be the one to submit the claim, but calling into the team doesn't hurt before hand or afterwards!

    2017 Trek Slash details-2017slash_hardware.jpg
    Community Manager | Trek Bicycle Corporation | www.trekbikes.com

  39. #1439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch@Trek View Post
    Looks like some part numbers are needed! Here is a chart of all the hardware (minus the cable routing guides) for the 2017 Slash!

    Also, for those of you with the cracked nut, if you are the original owner, I would suggest reaching out to the warranty team for replacement! Your local Trek dealer would be the one to submit the claim, but calling into the team doesn't hurt before hand or afterwards!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for this! I'm taking my Slash in for some work, so I'll be sure to check for the problem. Having this chart is great!

  40. #1440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch@Trek View Post
    Looks like some part numbers are needed! Here is a chart of all the hardware (minus the cable routing guides) for the 2017 Slash!

    Also, for those of you with the cracked nut, if you are the original owner, I would suggest reaching out to the warranty team for replacement! Your local Trek dealer would be the one to submit the claim, but calling into the team doesn't hurt before hand or afterwards!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you for engaging and posting on here with the positive encouragement - that says a lot

    Unfortunately for me, I have had less than stellar results in following your recommendations. When I discovered that the nut on my main pivot was cracked, I called Trek warranty and was told that part was only covered for 1 year even though it appears to state 2 years on the site - I mentioned this and was told I could "try to submit a claim through my LBS" if I wanted to, but it wasn't likely to be approved - it wasn't worth $50 for me to be without my bike for an extended time, so I just sucked it up and paid for it - it wouldn't really have bothered me that much except now I have discovered this is a very common issue, which means it is clearly a design flaw (all you have to do is hold that nut in your hand and imagine 34 nM of torque on it to realize this)

    On top of this, now I have discovered that the rocker pivot nut is also damaged - it is a very similar-looking design to the main pivot, except 22 nM of torque - my intuition is to try to source some more durable hardware that will hold up if I can find it, or else just sell the bike and start over, which I really don't don't want to do b/c I love riding this bike

    On a positive note, I will report that even though they have never taken care of my problem, the people I have spoken to in Trek warranty were very nice and professional

  41. #1441
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    Quote Originally Posted by toronte View Post
    Could you please let fellow riders know the exact part numbers for the bolts required when converting to coil? That's a Trek part, not supplied by Cane Creek if I understand correctly, right?
    You need 2 of the trek shock bolts part number 540755. You need hardware for the shock also, I used these (you can find them if you copy and paste the name into google, but since your going to have to order bolts through a trek dealer I would say have the shop order the hardware kit)

    Fox 5-Piece Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware Kit for IGUS Bushing Shocks, 10mm x 2.360" / 59.94mm (for the upper eyelet)

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-2-360-59-94mm

    RockShox Rear Shock Mounting Hardware: Metric 10 x 50mm, 3-Piece Set, Off Set - Trek Carbon (lower eyelet)

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...et-trek-carbon





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    Last edited by traditiionalist; 1 Week Ago at 02:16 PM.

  42. #1442
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    Thank you for engaging and posting on here with the positive encouragement - that says a lot

    Unfortunately for me, I have had less than stellar results in following your recommendations. When I discovered that the nut on my main pivot was cracked, I called Trek warranty and was told that part was only covered for 1 year even though it appears to state 2 years on the site - I mentioned this and was told I could "try to submit a claim through my LBS" if I wanted to, but it wasn't likely to be approved - it wasn't worth $50 for me to be without my bike for an extended time, so I just sucked it up and paid for it - it wouldn't really have bothered me that much except now I have discovered this is a very common issue, which means it is clearly a design flaw (all you have to do is hold that nut in your hand and imagine 34 nM of torque on it to realize this)

    On top of this, now I have discovered that the rocker pivot nut is also damaged - it is a very similar-looking design to the main pivot, except 22 nM of torque - my intuition is to try to source some more durable hardware that will hold up if I can find it, or else just sell the bike and start over, which I really don't don't want to do b/c I love riding this bike

    On a positive note, I will report that even though they have never taken care of my problem, the people I have spoken to in Trek warranty were very nice and professional
    I'm sorry to hear the motions to have this covered have not been so great! I'm not sure what would have prevented that from being covered. I spoke directly to a member of the warranty team the other day when I saw this thread. What was passed along to me was that this would be covered under 2 years as long as you have proof of purchase and the claim was sent through your local Trek dealer. I'd love to see you keep riding your Trek though, I feel confident we would cover it next time!

    I hope you don't mind, but I will be sharing this thread with the warranty leads and product team (if they are unaware) so they can look into this and help with any future warranty claims that may arise.
    Community Manager | Trek Bicycle Corporation | www.trekbikes.com

  43. #1443
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    I just took 2 broken nuts and 3rd that is still on my bike to my dealer today. Heís going to be reaching out to trek next week for me. I already spent $80 in replacement kits for the first 2. Hopefully they do the right thing.

  44. #1444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch@Trek View Post
    I hope you don't mind, but I will be sharing this thread with the warranty leads and product team (if they are unaware) so they can look into this and help with any future warranty claims that may arise.
    Please do

  45. #1445
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    I just took 2 broken nuts and 3rd that is still on my bike to my dealer today. Heís going to be reaching out to trek next week for me. I already spent $80 in replacement kits for the first 2. Hopefully they do the right thing.
    Would love to hear the outcome of this

  46. #1446
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    Pretty sure my cane creek is leaking out of the bleed screw, noticed some oil around the screw and on the body of the shock. I wiped it away and sent cc an email, they said if it continues leaking to just send it in and they will do a full service on it. They seem very willing to help, unlike fox in my previous experience. Shock doesnt feel wierd, so I think its fine for now, rebound works and theres no slushing noise when compressing it.

  47. #1447
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    Would love to hear the outcome of this
    They are giving me a replacement hardware kit. Thatís great but my 2 year warranty is up in a month so when that one breaks, which Iím sure it will, Iím back to square one.

  48. #1448
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    They are giving me a replacement hardware kit. Thatís great but my 2 year warranty is up in a month so when that one breaks, which Iím sure it will, Iím back to square one.
    Thanks for the update - I guess that is better than nothing!


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  49. #1449
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    cheers guys,

    has anyone tried a 44mm offset fork yet? my CSU starts creaking and i consider a swap to the new lyrik.

    @bmwzimmer do you have one do you?

  50. #1450
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    2017 Trek Slash details

    Custom downtube decals in the correct size, anyone know were to order?

  51. #1451
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    A warranty replacement should extend the warranty, atleast on that particular part. That's the general rule of thumb here in the EU.

  52. #1452
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    Anyone here running the knock block stem adapter? From what I have heard, they slip and arent worth it.

  53. #1453
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    Quote Originally Posted by darsannn View Post
    cheers guys,

    has anyone tried a 44mm offset fork yet? my CSU starts creaking and i consider a swap to the new lyrik.

    @bmwzimmer do you have one do you?
    Nope, mine is a 51 offset at 170mm since my shock has about 156mm of travel. With the Slash's Geo, 51 is probably best since it was what it was designed for. However, it's not a bad idea to get a 44 since you might be able to use it on the next bike.
    Will you be able to tell a difference in a blind test? Nope

  54. #1454
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwzimmer View Post
    Nope, mine is a 51 offset at 170mm since my shock has about 156mm of travel. With the Slash's Geo, 51 is probably best since it was what it was designed for. However, it's not a bad idea to get a 44 since you might be able to use it on the next bike.
    Will you be able to tell a difference in a blind test? Nope
    yes, i fully agree.

    but i wonder about the geo, most of the newer 44mm offset bikes have the same geo. whats the difference then?
    64,5-65 HA, reach etc.

  55. #1455
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    2017 Trek Slash details

    Quote Originally Posted by traditiionalist View Post
    Anyone here running the knock block stem adapter? From what I have heard, they slip and arent worth it.
    Almost two years without a problem for me. Torque it to 3-4Nm and it wonít slip more then the stem.


    As to my previous question; Invisiframe has decals in the right size. If anyone else is looking.

  56. #1456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
    Almost two years without a problem for me. Torque it to 3-4Nm and it wonít slip more then the stem.


    As to my previous question; Invisiframe has decals in the right size. If anyone else is looking.
    Im thinking carbon paste and a 4nm torque would work

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