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Thread: Transition Spur

  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by APDuncan27 View Post
    I was literally in the exact position as you, over-biked (Devinci Troy), wanted something lighter for long rides. I started with SB100, Ranger, Spur, Ryve, and narrowed it down to Spur and Ranger. I decided to go with the ranger but could have easily gone Spur. There are advantages to both but here are my perceived positives with Ranger that made me go that route (of course these are all just in theory because I haven't ridden both bikes):

    - CBF vs flex stays, I've heard great things about CBF and am hoping it results in a smoother ride through rough stuff.
    - More maneuverable in tight switchbacks due to geo
    - Frame + Fork at $3,500 is a really good value IMO (I knew I wanted to build bike not buy complete)
    - Personally I like the way the Ranger looks better, especially the green frame I got
    - Colorado based company

    I have the frame and am building it up right now (first build), unfortunately didn't have all the tools and parts needed so it's taking a little longer than expected but should have it finished in the next couple days.
    Thanks APD, looking forward to hearing what you think of the Ranger. I too like the green.

    Good call on the Ryve, forgot about that bike. I've heard good things about the Spot FS bikes

  2. #602
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    SID bushing play

    My Sid has started acting up. Today while riding I noticed an audible clunk, which also could be felt through the handlebars.

    Can anyone else recommend how to "diagnose/replicate" bushing play in the fork?

    I wanted to make sure it wasn't the brake pads shifting/making the noise so I gripped the handlebars near the stem to eliminate that. The clunk can actually be felt as you cycle through the travel. Its obviously a lot louder and can be felt through the handlebars more on the trail.


  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    My Sid has started acting up. Today while riding I noticed an audible clunk, which also could be felt through the handlebars.

    Can anyone else recommend how to "diagnose/replicate" bushing play in the fork?

    I wanted to make sure it wasn't the brake pads shifting/making the noise so I gripped the handlebars near the stem to eliminate that. The clunk can actually be felt as you cycle through the travel. Its obviously a lot louder and can be felt through the handlebars more on the trail.

    With your left hand on the brake applied and your right hand on the right upper wipers gently rock the bike forward and back and see if there's excessive play or noise in the lowers.

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  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post
    With your left hand on the brake applied and your right hand on the right upper wipers gently rock the bike forward and back and see if there's excessive play or noise in the lowers.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    OK, I tried this and I can feel in my right hand the movement of the upper in the lower. I wrapped my hand around the lower just below the fork seal and can feel it shifting around.......dammnn!

    Tried this on my other bike as a reference point. My other bike all you get is the brake pad shifting back and forth. No clunk, no noise besides the brake pads moving.

  5. #605
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    SID bushing play for me too

    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    OK, I tried this and I can feel in my right hand the movement of the upper in the lower. I wrapped my hand around the lower just below the fork seal and can feel it shifting around.......dammnn!
    Same here. Got the Spur July 7th and my SID Select+ has major bushing play. Did a long 45-60 min rocky downhill three times the past few weeks and itís making all sorts of air noises. Calling RockShox tomorrow...
    just ride

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINImtnbiker View Post
    Same here. Got the Spur July 7th and my SID Select+ has major bushing play. Did a long 45-60 min rocky downhill three times the past few weeks and itís making all sorts of air noises. Calling RockShox tomorrow...
    Unfortunately I donít think SRAM/RockShox will deal with the end user. I believe you have to go through the LBS. I had a Reverb I needed work on and I had to bring it to a shop. If you find a workaround let us know.

    Transition Spur-107ca1ad-b0a9-41ef-a75a-8f0c9463a7fb.jpg

  7. #607
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    Bought my fork second hand. Wonder if they will still replace my bushings if they go bad. Wonder if they know my serial number if your shock will develop the issue. Bad batch of bushings?

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilRob View Post
    Bought my fork second hand. Wonder if they will still replace my bushings if they go bad. Wonder if they know my serial number if your shock will develop the issue. Bad batch of bushings?
    If I remember correctly with the Reverb I sent back they made me include my receipt of the purchase of the bike to prove how old it was.

    I would imagine that it is just a bad batch of bushings. Not everyone is experiencing it.

    I read somewhere to try 20wt oil vs the Ow-30wt to try and ďfill the gapĒ of the bushings?

  9. #609
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    Anyone know what the cost would be to have someone swap them out?

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Unfortunately I donít think SRAM/RockShox will deal with the end user. I believe you have to go through the LBS. I had a Reverb I needed work on and I had to bring it to a shop. If you find a workaround let us know.
    SRAM handles all warranty service through local bike shops. Their "dealer service centers" are excellent and you should be able to setup a warranty through any bike shop, it doesn't need to be the shop you purchased the product from. They will take care of any issues ASAP, you just need to set it up via a shop.

  11. #611
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    Yes, my buddy owns a shop who sells Transition, he's doing it for me.
    just ride

  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transition Bikes View Post
    SRAM handles all warranty service through local bike shops. Their "dealer service centers" are excellent and you should be able to setup a warranty through any bike shop, it doesn't need to be the shop you purchased the product from. They will take care of any issues ASAP, you just need to set it up via a shop.
    Thanks guys, I will try a LBS.

  13. #613
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    To the people with Sid bushing issues...Are these OE Sids? Has anyone that purchased a Sid "Fork only" experienced this?

  14. #614
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    OE SID's. They've only been able to purchase aftermarket for a few weeks. Seems they develop issues after 4-8 weeks of riding.
    just ride

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transition Bikes View Post
    SRAM handles all warranty service through local bike shops. Their "dealer service centers" are excellent and you should be able to setup a warranty through any bike shop, it doesn't need to be the shop you purchased the product from. They will take care of any issues ASAP, you just need to set it up via a shop.
    Just dropped my bike off at a LBS. He felt and heard what I did, but wasn't familiar with the Sid or the issue I'm having......he did agree that something was going on. He said 99% of people would never bring their bike in for something like this, but agreed that taking care of it now would be better.

    My honeymoon phase........my significant other is gone!!!!!

  16. #616
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    Here's a post copied below from a user in the XC Racing/Training subforum. I have a Spur frame with SID Ultimate 35 on order, so I have a vested interest in this topic. If anyone who already has the fork wants to give the routine below (compress to >30% and compare bushing play) a try to observe whether there's any difference, I'd be very curious about your results.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/xc-racing-tr...l#post14980193

    "A small update regarding the bushings play issue for fairness to SRAM.
    SRAM told me that the stanchions slide between 2 different bushings on each side of the legs but in the position between 0%-30% Sag the stanchions slide through only one bushing.
    For this reason in this position all fork have a play at the bushings but if you compress the fork to 30% Sag the stanchions use all 4 bushings and it will not have play."
    Nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure.

  17. #617
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    Correct--far more 0-30%

    Quote Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
    Here's a post copied below from a user in the XC Racing/Training subforum. I have a Spur frame with SID Ultimate 35 on order, so I have a vested interest in this topic. If anyone who already has the fork wants to give the routine below (compress to >30% and compare bushing play) a try to observe whether there's any difference, I'd be very curious about your results.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/xc-racing-tr...l#post14980193

    "A small update regarding the bushings play issue for fairness to SRAM.
    SRAM told me that the stanchions slide between 2 different bushings on each side of the legs but in the position between 0%-30% Sag the stanchions slide through only one bushing.
    For this reason in this position all fork have a play at the bushings but if you compress the fork to 30% Sag the stanchions use all 4 bushings and it will not have play."
    Absolutely correct. It's way noticeable climbing when it tops out. That said, it only started to happen 2 weeks ago, and I've had the bike 8 weeks exactly. And, mine is making noticeably loud air noises, but that was after a long 45 minute downhill and lasted for an hour. Seems to have calmed down now, but wondering if that did any damage.
    just ride

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINImtnbiker View Post
    Absolutely correct. It's way noticeable climbing when it tops out. That said, it only started to happen 2 weeks ago, and I've had the bike 8 weeks exactly. And, mine is making noticeably loud air noises, but that was after a long 45 minute downhill and lasted for an hour. Seems to have calmed down now, but wondering if that did any damage.

    I will add that when I first started riding the bike it did not clunk like it does now. My bike is less than 35 days old! This movement and noise just started happening. You can feel the movement through the bars, and hear the noise as the suspension cycles through the travel. It does make the noise at the top portion like mentioned......but if it has this much movement and noise after 35 days.....what about 2-3 months more of riding?

  19. #619
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    EXACTLY. I'm in the high mtns so only have ~6 weeks of riding season left :-( so I am going to wait on the RMA.
    just ride

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINImtnbiker View Post
    Absolutely correct. It's way noticeable climbing when it tops out. That said, it only started to happen 2 weeks ago, and I've had the bike 8 weeks exactly.
    Interesting. Thanks for your reply and feedback.
    Nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure.

  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
    Interesting. Thanks for your reply and feedback.
    Itís not just climbing, but every time your front wheel lifts off the ground. I really noticed mine on a long flowing trail with lots of small bumps and features that your wheel comes off the ground slightly....itís the top portion like mentioned above where the problem is. You spend a lot of time in this area due to the limited travel.

  22. #622
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    Makes sense that it's evident on all top outs. Good to know.

    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Itís not just climbing, but every time your front wheel lifts off the ground. I really noticed mine on a long flowing trail with lots of small bumps and features that your wheel comes off the ground slightly....itís the top portion like mentioned above where the problem is. You spend a lot of time in this area due to the limited travel.
    Nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure.

  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINImtnbiker View Post
    EXACTLY. I'm in the high mtns so only have ~6 weeks of riding season left :-( so I am going to wait on the RMA.
    Don't wait too long, it might get like this!?!?


  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINImtnbiker View Post
    OE SID's. They've only been able to purchase aftermarket for a few weeks. Seems they develop issues after 4-8 weeks of riding.

    I have a SiD Ultimate that was bought fork only Be interesting once my frame arrives if it develops the same issue. Wondering if this was produced before or after the ones for the OE bikes

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilRob View Post
    I have a SiD Ultimate that was bought fork only Be interesting once my frame arrives if it develops the same issue. Wondering if this was produced before or after the ones for the OE bikes
    Iím guessing there was an OEM-only production run that resulted in a batch of bad forks. It sounds like people buying aftermarket (I.e., later production, Iíd guess) are having no problems.


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  26. #626
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    Had my Spur for a little over a week and about 5 rides so far and the fork almost from the start had that air escaping sound but not the clicking sound in the video. Annoying to say the least!

  27. #627
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    What type of frame protection you guys like? I have just used bulk tape in the past. Debating a kit for my new frame

  28. #628
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    Just wanted to bring back a positive vibe to this thread. I know the Sid thing is an issue and yes itís a bummer.

    I have a backup bike to hold me over until my fork comes back but all I can think about it my Spur. Iíve never had a bike that has captured my attention like it has. Itís really a unique bike that has opened my eyes about what a trail bike can or should be. I have for the most part been ďoverbikedĒ with a lot of my choices. I always said itís better to have the extra travel an not use it all the time than to not have and need it. The reality is that 95% of the time I didnít use it. I spend most of my time trail riding in Upstate NY and Southern VT. Our trails arenít what you see in every single bike review on YouTube where there is a mild climb followed by a long high speed downhill.....while Iím jealous that people have this our trails are different. Our ups are generally our downs. Our older trail systems werenít thought out like the new ones. We are starting to see trail system being built with more thought, but for now there is only minimal rewards for our climbs.

    Thatís why this bike resonates so well with me. It can get you in and up those trails much easier than an overbiked/heavier/less pedal friendly bike can. When the trail finally points down and opens up its very capable. I donít Huck it, send it, or refer to myself as extreme....but I do like to open it up if I can, and this bike is happy to oblige my less than extreme requests.

    It also just begs to be ridden! You can turn mild/mellow trails into something better. Small trail features become opportunities for extra credit fun. I find myself pedaling toward stuff rather than going around. When riding this bike I find myself staying out longer, and taking a longer route, itís just that much fun.

    Donít let the fork thing steer you away from this bike!

  29. #629
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    125 miles on mine so far. Fork and bike remain quiet and composed. I'm absolutely loving it so far. I seem to remember someone saying the bike was notably damp in a review, and that's definitely one of my big takeaways. It moves around more than my big bike (Guerrilla Gravity Smash) in the ways that you'd expect, but it's quieter in high speed chop. Barring issues that haven't surfaced for me, I'm super impressed with the SID suspension.

  30. #630
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggravy View Post
    125 miles on mine so far. Fork and bike remain quiet and composed. I'm absolutely loving it so far. I seem to remember someone saying the bike was notably damp in a review, and that's definitely one of my big takeaways. It moves around more than my big bike (Guerrilla Gravity Smash) in the ways that you'd expect, but it's quieter in high speed chop. Barring issues that haven't surfaced for me, I'm super impressed with the SID suspension.
    My other bike is a GG Shred Dogg which I thought was a playful and quick bike.....but the Spur is on another level.

    While Iím waiting for my fork I have tried throwing some light weight tires on the GG to try to get back the speed of the Spur, it helps....sort of. The Spur is a very quite bike, my GG is not as quiet.

    The Sid and Sidluxe are definitely good! I really like the combo. When they get the fork sorted I really see no need to change it. Itís a good combo.

  31. #631
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    Transition Spur

    Glad you guys restarted the ďSpur rocks you like a hurricaneĒ vibe again. My only reservation is Iíve grown so addicted to big wide tire traction. I like big tires and I canít deny!!


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  32. #632
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    Yes, I have had mine for almost 3 months w/ hundreds of miles on it with plenty of hard riding. No bushing play on mine.

    Such a rad bike. Unlike anything I have ever ridden.
    Transition Spur
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  33. #633
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    Has anyone here come from a Ripley V4 that can compare the two? On paper the Ripley ticks all my boxes more so than the Spur but that doesnít always tell the whole story! Both bikes get awesome reviews as far as I can see. Iím just looking for the funnest and the one I can stay in the saddle the longest at this point.

  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Just wanted to bring back a positive vibe to this thread. I know the Sid thing is an issue and yes itís a bummer.

    I have a backup bike to hold me over until my fork comes back but all I can think about it my Spur. Iíve never had a bike that has captured my attention like it has. Itís really a unique bike that has opened my eyes about what a trail bike can or should be. I have for the most part been ďoverbikedĒ with a lot of my choices. I always said itís better to have the extra travel an not use it all the time than to not have and need it. The reality is that 95% of the time I didnít use it. I spend most of my time trail riding in Upstate NY and Southern VT. Our trails arenít what you see in every single bike review on YouTube where there is a mild climb followed by a long high speed downhill.....while Iím jealous that people have this our trails are different. Our ups are generally our downs. Our older trail systems werenít thought out like the new ones. We are starting to see trail system being built with more thought, but for now there is only minimal rewards for our climbs.

    Thatís why this bike resonates so well with me. It can get you in and up those trails much easier than an overbiked/heavier/less pedal friendly bike can. When the trail finally points down and opens up its very capable. I donít Huck it, send it, or refer to myself as extreme....but I do like to open it up if I can, and this bike is happy to oblige my less than extreme requests.

    It also just begs to be ridden! You can turn mild/mellow trails into something better. Small trail features become opportunities for extra credit fun. I find myself pedaling toward stuff rather than going around. When riding this bike I find myself staying out longer, and taking a longer route, itís just that much fun.

    Donít let the fork thing steer you away from this bike!
    Well said, 100% agree. I have long gnarly descents too. My other bike is an Ibis Ripmo. I ride the Spur 9/10 rides! Sometimes I put the Ripmo wheels on (Assegai + Aggressor both 2.5) for long DHs. But usually I just use my 2.6 Dissector front and 2.4 Rekon in back on the Spur.


    It BEGS to be ridden hard.

    Someone asked about a Ripley V4. I think the Spur has better geometry (a bit slacker, bit steeper) and I know it descends better. Ripley climbs like a scalded cat though, especially on technical and steep climbs. As Transition says, the Spur is the DH rider's XC bike.
    just ride

  35. #635
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    biker edge said the spur climbs better then the ripley,, mini how is the clearence with the 2.5 in back, bike is specked for only 2.4 in rear, thats my main reservation I like a 2.6 Rekon in the back think it would fit ??

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I always said itís better to have the extra travel and not use it all the time than to not have and need it. The reality is that 95% of the time I didnít use it. I spend most of my time trail riding in Upstate NY and Southern VT. Our trails arenít what you see in every single bike review on YouTube where there is a mild climb followed by a long high speed downhill.
    I live in NorCal. What all those youtube videos showing guys shredding downhill for 15 minutes don't show is the 50 minute climb uphill. The majority of time is actually spent climbing. Plus 95% of the trails are blue diamond. So unless you're into enduro racing or hitting the bike parks, a short travel trail bike like the Spur makes a lot of sense out here, too.

  37. #637
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    Quick update on running a Dissector in the rear.

    The Dissector really helps controlling the speed the Spur generates. With the Rekon I always felt you can get out of control really fast, and the rear was a lot of work to get back under control. The bike is just so damn good at wanting to go fast. The Dissector on the rear is a win. Dissector F/R is a perfect combo.

    Also, did my big figure 8 ride at Hinesberg Town Forest (HTF) yesterday in 1hr 13 mins. Last summer that same route took almost 2 hours. Bike is damn good/fast.
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  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    Quick update on running a Dissector in the rear.

    The Dissector really helps controlling the speed the Spur generates. With the Rekon I always felt you can get out of control really fast, and the rear was a lot of work to get back under control. The bike is just so damn good at wanting to go fast. The Dissector on the rear is a win. Dissector F/R is a perfect combo.

    Also, did my big figure 8 ride at Hinesberg Town Forest (HTF) yesterday in 1hr 13 mins. Last summer that same route took almost 2 hours. Bike is damn good/fast.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Great looking rig!


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  39. #639
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    Have u giys noticed that on transition website all the spurs are out of stock not sure what is going on... and does anyone know when they will be available again ?!

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by saban View Post
    Have u giys noticed that on transition website all the spurs are out of stock not sure what is going on... and does anyone know when they will be available again ?!
    Rough estimates are pointing to February 2021.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by saban View Post
    Have u giys noticed that on transition website all the spurs are out of stock not sure what is going on... and does anyone know when they will be available again ?!
    Just about every bike manufacturer is experiencing product shortages due to COVID and the increase in demand for product that gets them outdoors.

    Not going to be easy to get a bike anywhere, but a bike like the Spur and how popular it is the wait will be long.

    They were posting estimates on when they would be available, now they simply say out of stock. I would imagine that bikes that are out of stock they have exhausted their entire inventory.

    Might be next year and new colors for the next shipments?

  42. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Just about every bike manufacturer is experiencing product shortages due to COVID and the increase in demand for product that gets them outdoors.

    Not going to be easy to get a bike anywhere, but a bike like the Spur and how popular it is the wait will be long.

    They were posting estimates on when they would be available, now they simply say out of stock. I would imagine that bikes that are out of stock they have exhausted their entire inventory.

    Might be next year and new colors for the next shipments?
    I am going to email Transition today. About 3 weeks ago I put a deposit down with my LBS on a X01 build in Large. I am now curious about the wait times. February is a long time for a bike, but I was never concerned about getting this year. Actually gives me time to get my old bike into the shop for a tuneup and get it ready for sale over the winter. If I get the bike in the winter here in Canada, it will give me time to look at it, drool, and be ready with a brand new rig for the 2021 season. Lots of manufacturers are getting bogged down with inventory issues, so personally I just put my money down. I sat on a scout for reach and fit measurements, but other than that, huge leap of faith this will be the one bike for me. I have a feeling I'm going to love it. Hopefully the rocksox sid ultimate situation gets resolved. I think it will. Anyone with reviews about the bike please post as I'm hungry for more honest feedback from people who own the bike. My only concern is the 175 cranks. I have very rocky sections in my local trails and some technical janky sections. the very low bottom bracket could be a curse/blessing in certain sections of trail. Faith not fear!

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian H View Post
    I am going to email Transition today. About 3 weeks ago I put a deposit down with my LBS on a X01 build in Large. I am now curious about the wait times. February is a long time for a bike, but I was never concerned about getting this year. Actually gives me time to get my old bike into the shop for a tuneup and get it ready for sale over the winter. If I get the bike in the winter here in Canada, it will give me time to look at it, drool, and be ready with a brand new rig for the 2021 season. Lots of manufacturers are getting bogged down with inventory issues, so personally I just put my money down. I sat on a scout for reach and fit measurements, but other than that, huge leap of faith this will be the one bike for me. I have a feeling I'm going to love it. Hopefully the rocksox sid ultimate situation gets resolved. I think it will. Anyone with reviews about the bike please post as I'm hungry for more honest feedback from people who own the bike. My only concern is the 175 cranks. I have very rocky sections in my local trails and some technical janky sections. the very low bottom bracket could be a curse/blessing in certain sections of trail. Faith not fear!

    My first day out on the bike in technical rocky stuff I was convinced that the 175 cranks were a bad spec. Though not optimal I've adjusted fairly easily, and with an already low stack height I don't want to have to raise my saddle up even 5mm due to shorter cranks. I am ordering a different wheelset with high engagement hubs to help the cause with negotiating rocky terrain.

  44. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggravy View Post
    My first day out on the bike in technical rocky stuff I was convinced that the 175 cranks were a bad spec. Though not optimal I've adjusted fairly easily, and with an already low stack height I don't want to have to raise my saddle up even 5mm due to shorter cranks. I am ordering a different wheelset with high engagement hubs to help the cause with negotiating rocky terrain.
    I ordered a Carbon GX 170mm crank Thursday fro my LBS. I agree, the 175 are just too long. My stock Stylo 7k 175mm crank arms are super beat up already. So many times I've had an "Oh Sh**" moment, but remained unharmed.
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  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    I ordered a Carbon GX 170mm crank Thursday fro my LBS. I agree, the 175 are just too long. My stock Stylo 7k 175mm crank arms are super beat up already. So many times I've had an "Oh Sh**" moment, but remained unharmed.

    Ya I figured the cranks would have taken a beating. I will have to adjust. My old rocky mountain thunderbolt is overforked by 20mm, and the bottom bracket being higher by quite a bit, I am used to pedalling thru all sorts of things without consequence. My buddy got a 2019 fuel ex coming from a 2015 stumpjumper and he had to adjust to the lower botttom bracket. If I get frustrated I could always go to a 170. I hear about the stack height, but I'm used to a lower one on the rocky. Time will tell.

    I also most likely will swap out the stock rims and hubs for something carbon and bette engagement. Coming from I9's I am completely spoiled by how quick the engagement is. Thinking of trying out the onyx silent hub...

  46. #646
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    I continue to have issues with the SID select + not using the last 1/3 of its travel. I've tried reducing the air pressure 20-30 psi below recommendation, very little difference. If I go lower than that, the fork sags into its travel 10mm or more as I'm just riding along, lowering the front end uncomfortably. I checked and there are no tokens in it. I'm wondering if other heavier riders are experiencing this (the RS recommended PSI for me is 110-115). Maybe when you get to higher PSIs it has this problem? I've tried all the other tricks that have been recommended. Thoughts? I'm almost ready to give up on this fork, though I love the bike otherwise.

  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by chafingdish View Post
    I continue to have issues with the SID select + not using the last 1/3 of its travel. I've tried reducing the air pressure 20-30 psi below recommendation, very little difference. If I go lower than that, the fork sags into its travel 10mm or more as I'm just riding along, lowering the front end uncomfortably. I checked and there are no tokens in it. I'm wondering if other heavier riders are experiencing this (the RS recommended PSI for me is 110-115). Maybe when you get to higher PSIs it has this problem? I've tried all the other tricks that have been recommended. Thoughts? I'm almost ready to give up on this fork, though I love the bike otherwise.
    What sag level are you running at? It's a 120mm fork which means @ 25% sag, you should be 30mm into the travel.

  48. #648
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    Quote Originally Posted by chafingdish View Post
    I continue to have issues with the SID select + not using the last 1/3 of its travel. I've tried reducing the air pressure 20-30 psi below recommendation, very little difference. If I go lower than that, the fork sags into its travel 10mm or more as I'm just riding along, lowering the front end uncomfortably. I checked and there are no tokens in it. I'm wondering if other heavier riders are experiencing this (the RS recommended PSI for me is 110-115). Maybe when you get to higher PSIs it has this problem? I've tried all the other tricks that have been recommended. Thoughts? I'm almost ready to give up on this fork, though I love the bike otherwise.
    Are you setting the fork up by using the sag markings(20%-25%), or just going by air pressure?

    Are you setting sag in a seated position or standing position?

    I rarely find the recommended PSI for my weight equals correct sag.

    I will use the recommended PSI, get on the bike in a standing position, and see where the sag o-ring ends up. Then add or subtract PSI until desired sag is achieved. Your pump may be off 5-10psi from what you think anyway.

    If you are setting sag by the O-ring and markings on the fork and not relying on the pump and you don't get good results it may be time for SRAM warranty service.

  49. #649
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    I set it up at ranging from 25-35% sag (standing position) to try to get a different feel, and I've tried using air pressure guides. Tried all the things. At most I'm getting through about 65% of the travel on my normal trails. On the 140mm FOX 36 I had on my old bike, I'd regularly use 90% of the travel on the same trails. In my drive way, if I get on the bike standing and try to slam my weight down through the bars to compress the fork, it "bottoms out" at 50-60% travel. The tech at the LBS has the new SID on his Epic Evo, and he's having the exact same issue (he weighs 180, I weigh 220) and has also tried everything. He's a very experienced rider and mechanic, and more aggressive rider than me, same issues. I think I'll call Rockshox. I've only had this fork for a month. Maybe they can explain what the problem is.

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by chafingdish View Post
    I set it up at ranging from 25-35% sag (standing position) to try to get a different feel, and I've tried using air pressure guides. Tried all the things. At most I'm getting through about 65% of the travel on my normal trails. On the 140mm FOX 36 I had on my old bike, I'd regularly use 90% of the travel on the same trails. In my drive way, if I get on the bike standing and try to slam my weight down through the bars to compress the fork, it "bottoms out" at 50-60% travel. The tech at the LBS has the new SID on his Epic Evo, and he's having the exact same issue (he weighs 180, I weigh 220) and has also tried everything. He's a very experienced rider and mechanic, and more aggressive rider than me, same issues. I think I'll call Rockshox. I've only had this fork for a month. Maybe they can explain what the problem is.
    Try letting all the air out, so the fork sags all the way, then pump up slightly and then compress the shock several times to equalize it. Then pump it back up and start over w/ your sag.

    Just another thought.

    I found with my Sid+ I had to go by sag, and not the recommended PSI on back of fork. FYI, I am well under the recommendation on fork at 195lbs.
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  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    Try letting all the air out, so the fork sags all the way, then pump up slightly and then compress the shock several times to equalize it. Then pump it back up and start over w/ your sag.
    .
    I believe this was already recommended? This is what I thought would keep it from getting full travel.

  52. #652
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    Thanks, I have tried equalizing it a few times. Out of curiosity, at your body weight and sag setting, what PSI is it?

  53. #653
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    Considering the amount of issues that have surfaced with the Sid, I would imagine contacting Rockshox thru your LBS would be the best course of action.

    This is why going to your local shop if you can pays dividends in situations like this. I was at one point going to buy a YT and I'm glad I did not. It's black or white with the online retailers. Here in Canada the reputation is lukewarm. Transition having a reputation with excellent customer service, I am hoping that if I have an issue, it will be addressed accordingly.

    Good luck with the fork, and i hope it works out.

    B

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by chafingdish View Post
    Thanks, I have tried equalizing it a few times. Out of curiosity, at your body weight and sag setting, what PSI is it?
    Iím 187lbs and according to my shock pump 80psi gives me 25% sag while standing. I donít sit to measure fork sag. I will consistently use 75-90% travel every time I ride....even on my mellow/lame trail. My O-ring generally will be sitting just below the Debonair writing every time I take it out. It goes above the Debonair writing, but only when the trail is higher speed with jumps or drops.

  55. #655
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Iím 187lbs and according to my shock pump 80psi gives me 25% sag while standing. I donít sit to measure fork sag. I will consistently use 75-90% travel every time I ride....even on my mellow/lame trail. My O-ring generally will be sitting just below the Debonair writing every time I take it out. It goes above the Debonair writing, but only when the trail is higher speed with jumps or drops.
    Similar setup and experience here.
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  56. #656
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    i would also burp the lowers

  57. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    I believe this was already recommended? This is what I thought would keep it from getting full travel.
    Derp. Sorry. Like going straight to the comment section w/o reading the article...

    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Iím 187lbs and according to my shock pump 80psi gives me 25% sag while standing. I donít sit to measure fork sag. I will consistently use 75-90% travel every time I ride....even on my mellow/lame trail. My O-ring generally will be sitting just below the Debonair writing every time I take it out. It goes above the Debonair writing, but only when the trail is higher speed with jumps or drops.
    Same. I'm in-between 80-85. Fork leg says 100+psi... So yeah, almost 20psi under. Largest drop to transition i have done is 4-4.5ft... Not going much bigger then that these days.
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  58. #658
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    While my fork is at SRAM getting fixed/not getting fixed I spend my time thinking about replacing it. I have had good luck over the years with Rockshox forks, and my SID was good in the beginning. I can look past a year one bushing mishap.......thinking about getting the Ultimate in blue....

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  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by chafingdish View Post
    I continue to have issues with the SID select + not using the last 1/3 of its travel. I've tried reducing the air pressure 20-30 psi below recommendation, very little difference. If I go lower than that, the fork sags into its travel 10mm or more as I'm just riding along, lowering the front end uncomfortably. I checked and there are no tokens in it. I'm wondering if other heavier riders are experiencing this (the RS recommended PSI for me is 110-115). Maybe when you get to higher PSIs it has this problem? I've tried all the other tricks that have been recommended. Thoughts? I'm almost ready to give up on this fork, though I love the bike otherwise.
    Mentioned this previously but there's a rather large mechanical bottom out bumper that requires a lot of effort to bottom out. Therefore I wouldn't worry about not using all the travel. Running less air will make that transition to the bumper more abrupt and unnatural feeling

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  60. #660
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    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNamesPool View Post
    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.
    I would expect it to affect resale...but it shouldn't. People are fickle consumers and always want the latest and greatest, without looking at what's actually best for them.

    When I was looking at building a new bike, I was looking at 10-50 (or XT) b/c, where I live, I don't need a 52 and the jump to 50 is big enough...I just don't think I'd like or use the 52...BUT: people will see the 50 and think "old tech" and want to pay less $$$$. It's too bad, but that seems to be how lots of people think.

    BUT: you could also argue: anyone who wants this particular bike will pay for it...bc you CANNOT get it. I sure wish I woulda jumped on it the day it came out. But, instead, I stupidly waited for a week before deciding and now I'll be waiting until Spring or so.

  62. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNamesPool View Post
    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.
    I have a bike with GX 50T and my Spur has GX 52T. I know itís not X01 but besides weight and cost the comparison is similar. Honestly 52T on the Spur is a little excessive. I never felt the need on my ~32 pound bike to need a 52T cassette, and surely donít need it on a Spur that is a much better pedaling bike. I thought there would be a noticeable difference between the two but thereís not. I have actually thought about getting a 34T chainring to offset that 52T gearing, itís really just a bailout gear. Yes I use it, but I think it came out to ďone upĒ Shimano and itís 51T cassette.

  63. #663
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    That 52t is massive. Iím building my Spur up with a Xx1 11 speed. In Minnesota I have never needed more than a 42 even for a bailout gear. Understand living in different regions but it makes me chuckle with 52t gears in the flatland.

  64. #664
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNamesPool View Post
    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.
    In time I'll build a Spur and it's going to get an 11 speed for weight, clearance, cost, and the fact that a bike that pedals like this doesn't need that bail out gear imo.

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    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 5 Days Ago at 09:54 AM.

  65. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilRob View Post
    That 52t is massive. Iím building my Spur up with a Xx1 11 speed. In Minnesota I have never needed more than a 42 even for a bailout gear. Understand living in different regions but it makes me chuckle with 52t gears in the flatland.
    Good call.

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  66. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    In time I'll build a Spur and it's going to get an 11 speed for weight, clearance, cost, and the fact that a bike that pedals like this doesn't need that ball out gear imo.

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    Should really come with 34T front chain ring and 50T/52T.

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    Should really come with 34T front chain ring and 50T/52T.
    I can't speak to the Spur specifically but ime once the top chain line goes above the pivot point, AS falls off and the bikes pedal poorly.
    I run a 30T on my current rig for this exact reason, it's just a lot more sprightly with a 30T even though I can comfortably push a 34T.
    Also, you're adding 100+ grams going to a 12sp, most of it unsprung. You can have a smaller front chainring, shorter chain, smaller derailleur, smaller cassette. It adds up.

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  68. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNamesPool View Post
    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.
    when was your bike supposed to be ready?

  69. #669
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    Certain models just catch the imagination of the public and become sold out and hard to get. The Pole was like that for a while, the V1 Ripmo, the latest E29, now the Spur. Not saying it isn't deserved but there are plenty of bikes that are arguably as good, available and maybe at a sale price. Yet they can sit, unloved and unwanted.

  70. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    In time I'll build a Spur and it's going to get an 11 speed for weight, clearance, cost, and the fact that a bike that pedals like this doesn't need that ball out gear imo.

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    which 11 speed ??

    thanks

  71. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    which 11 speed ??

    thanks
    Sram X01 imo.

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  72. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNamesPool View Post
    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.
    I agree with others: 52 tooth is excessive, at least on this bike where I ride. In fact, the 50 tooth on my old 33lb trail bike got quite a bit of use, but I barely touch the 52 on the Spur. Almost like having an 11-speed with a useless 12th cog for extra weight. I'd opt for 50 tooth and not worry about resale, it's wear part anyway.

  73. #673
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    And to clarify my above comment on the 52 tooth cog: I wish I had a usable 12 gear, but usually when I shift into the 52 I find myself spinning to fast, losing traction, and/or front end wandering around b/c I'm going so slow. I like using the 50t on my old bike to catch a breather on climbs between steep pitches, then shift back down to accelerate up the pitch. Now I just leave it on the 11th cog. Hope that makes sense--a lot of it seems related to terrain and riding style (and bike weight).

  74. #674
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    If your building a bike up, I really like the Leonardi cassette 9-48. Great range, shifting, steps, etc.

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    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 4 Days Ago at 07:27 PM.

  75. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by chafingdish View Post
    And to clarify my above comment on the 52 tooth cog: I wish I had a usable 12 gear, but usually when I shift into the 52 I find myself spinning to fast..
    I disagree with all those people saying a 52t bailout gear is useless. It all depends on the rider and terrain being ridden. Out here in NorCal, there are lots of climbs with 20%+ sections. After a long day in the saddle, a bailout gear is very much appreciated when you hit those. The dry, loose trails also make it next to impossible to stand on these sections. The only choice is to sit and spin.

    For 12-speed clusters, I think Shimano actually does a better job, with a smoother transition to their biggest gears.

    Sram: 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 36, 42, 52
    Shimano: 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 33, 39, 45, 51

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonanv View Post
    when was your bike supposed to be ready?
    It was meant to be ready January....still not great but April is another story....I'm thinking about getting the 52T rear mech and keep the 10/50 cassette in case I change locations / helps with resale at some point.

    It got me thinking though about a Specialized Epic Evo expert (10/50T), select + fork and basic dropper but I can get it in December.

    I really want the Spur, has anyone ridden both and have any thoughts on the two? One thing, the Evo looks lighter even with the heavier fork and is still meant to pedal pretty well on the ups and Ok on the downs?

  77. #677
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    Smile

    When did you hear this from transition? I have an XL on order and I was given a January delivery date. I ordered early July

  78. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNamesPool View Post
    Just got the bad news today the the factory producing the frames have gone into lockdown so there's a delay on my bike X01 build until April 2021....not happy. The guys at the bike shop have been really good and managed to scrounge a frame and build one up. Only one caveat, the can't fit SRAM XO1 10-52T as it's too expensive so they can do a custom like for like build with 10-50T XO1. I wanted to get the newer version of X01, has anyone used it and can tell the difference? Thoughts on this for resale at a future point? Thanks guys.
    So as long as you can get the new 10-52 derailleur, I'd say it's no issue. It has upgraded internals and is backward compatible with the 10-50 cassette. I just needed a new drivetrain and actually chose to go with the 10-50 cassette and 10-52 new derailleur. I think the cassette size is personal preference so it shouldn't be an issue with resale. On that note I also went from 10-50 gx cassette, shifter and derailleur to 10-50 gx cassette, 10-52 XO derailleur, and XO shifter and I notice absolutely no difference in shift quality vs. the old GX. Hopefully it stays quieter and shifts smoothly longer. My GX drivetrain was cooked after about 2000 miles.

  79. #679
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilRob View Post
    When did you hear this from transition? I have an XL on order and I was given a January delivery date. I ordered early July

    Delivery dates are based on when your order (or the shop's order) was placed, where you are located in the world, and what spec level you are ordering. We have constant production happening, demand has just far exceeded our supply. The Spur is a popular new model that has sold even better than we anticipated on top of an overall COVID boom in bike sales. Check in with the shop for any updates on the ETA for your order, or contact us if you placed the order with us directly. We can't offer any ETA information for orders placed through resellers, you would need to work with them for that info.

  80. #680
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    Has anyone found a set of decent flat pedals that perfectly matches the color of the "copper" decals on this bike? (Black powder coat model, obviously)

    I'm looking at NS Radiance pedals, but neither the "Oil Rub" or "Copper" versions look like a match. What do you guys think?
    https://mikesbikes.com/products/radiance-pedal?

    I enjoy adding color accents...lol

  81. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by paleh0rse View Post
    Has anyone found a set of decent flat pedals that perfectly matches the color of the "copper" decals on this bike? (Black powder coat model, obviously)

    I'm looking at NS Radiance pedals, but neither the "Oil Rub" or "Copper" versions look like a match. What do you guys think?
    https://mikesbikes.com/products/radiance-pedal?

    I enjoy adding color accents...lol
    I don't know about an exactly, exact match, but those "oil rub" pedals look pretty snazzy.

  82. #682
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    The honeymoon is back on!

    It's been 9 days since I sent my fork out to Sram for the bushing issue. Today it came back with new lowers!

    First of all thank you Grey Ghost Bicycles for being an outstanding local bike shop. They took care of my Sram warranty issue. Can't believe they remembered the spacer orientation on my headset! Great attention to detail.

    SRAM thanks for taking care of this.

    It's been a rough 9 days without my Spur, can't believe how much I missed it compared to my back-up bike. You know you have a fondness for the bike when you ride your other bike and all you can think about is how much more fun the Spur is on this section/hill/corner/berm/root/climb.

  83. #683
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilRob View Post
    When did you hear this from transition? I have an XL on order and I was given a January delivery date. I ordered early July
    I ordered from my local Dealer and not direct with Transition, it will be my first Transition, bike 'B' is a Yeti SB130LR. Time for something lighter and faster with plenty of capability on the downs. Mind you, I shouldn't write it as I have no idea never haven ridden one besides looking at size 'XL' in a shop that is way too big for me. Never bought a MTB without testing it, I guess it's blind faith and good feedback from people who leave feedback on sites like this. I pulled the trigger, frame build with X01 10/52T rear mech and 10/50 cassette. Ready in Jan sometime... but it's a done deal and I'm counting the days.

  84. #684
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    Factory back in lockdown, like, in Taiwan or do they make their frames in the US?

  85. #685
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stankia View Post
    Factory back in lockdown, like, in Taiwan or do they make their frames in the US?
    I don't think they're U.S made but in Asia like most frames.

    Anyone got anymore rider feedback, appreciate reading these reviews!

  86. #686
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stankia View Post
    Factory back in lockdown, like, in Taiwan or do they make their frames in the US?
    Most companies donít make their carbon frames in the US. They use overseas carbon manufacturing in Taiwan, China, etc. The only company I know that is making US made Carbon is Guerrilla Gravity.

    My Spur was made in Taiwan.

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