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Thread: Touch my Monkey

  1. #1
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    ... and if we just ... Touch my Monkey

    I've been wanting to build up a Karate Monkey as a commuter for a while now but my plan was to use an intenally geared rear hub with a single speed crankset and keep it under $2000. Well after researching internally geared rear hubs it became apparent that getting a reliable hub and keeping the bike under $2000 was not gonna happen. So for now I'm building it up as a 2x9 and it should work fine this way until there are more economic and reliable internally geared hubs out there. Its going to have the Planet Bike Cascadia 29er fenders and most likely a Jandd standard rear rack and saddle bag panniers.

    The only problem I see having is fixing a flat on the rear with full coverage fenders on it. Since the rear drops are horizontal, I think the rear fender mounts will have to be undone to get the rear wheel out. No biggie as I always carry a multi tool anyway but I'm more concerned about damaging the eyelets on the frame by messing with it too much.

    I'll probably get some more done on it today as its snowing out again! But I'll get out on the pug as well so its not all bad
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    The bike looks waaaaaaay better than the chair.

  3. #3
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    I just mounted fenders on my KM last night. Be prepared to get creative with the rear fender mounting. Because the tire is so close to the front derailleur and there is no chainstay bridge, attaching the front edge of the fender is a challenge. I ended up cutting the front 6" or so off the thing and letting it hang.

    For clearance to allow removing the rear wheel with the KM's dropouts, I mounted it so the back edge is a bit over an inch away from the tire. It's tight but I can get the wheel out without removing the fender stays.
    Bikeys is good fun!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forrestf
    I just mounted fenders on my KM last night. Be prepared to get creative with the rear fender mounting. Because the tire is so close to the front derailleur and there is no chainstay bridge, attaching the front edge of the fender is a challenge. I ended up cutting the front 6" or so off the thing and letting it hang.

    For clearance to allow removing the rear wheel with the KM's dropouts, I mounted it so the back edge is a bit over an inch away from the tire. It's tight but I can get the wheel out without removing the fender stays.
    Thanks for the heads up and advice about the inch clearance. I've been sitting here wondering about the front edge of the rear fender myself. Been thinking about fabricating a clamp for the seat tube that the fender clamp will attach to instead of the missing chainstay bridge. I think I'll still be trimming away a few inches like you did though. With the snow here I have time to tinker with it so I'll let you know how it goes.

  5. #5
    A Surly Maverick
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    Great bike and excellent tyre choice

    Love the Twin rails on me street bike.
    Life IS a Beach and then you Corrode :)

  6. #6
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    The only problem I see having is fixing a flat on the rear with full coverage fenders on it. Since the rear drops are horizontal, I think the rear fender mounts will have to be undone to get the rear wheel out. No biggie as I always carry a multi tool anyway but I'm more concerned about damaging the eyelets on the frame by messing with it too much.

    I'm sure if you just grease the eyelets they'll stay fine. Do you have to pull the rear disc caliper anyway to change a flat w/ horiz dropouts? What's a few more turns of the allen wrench... and of course if the eyelet does strip despite your best efforts, that's why God Made Zipties.

    And, oh yes, there's always the hope you can spot the puncture with the wheel fully mounted and then just pull the tube out to patch it w/o removing the wheel.

    Nice looking ride, for sure.

  7. #7
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    I didn't have any trouble getting the wheel out past the fender but I was running the wheel way back in the drop-outs (singlespeed) so that I'd have enough clearance underneath the v-brake straddle cable. And since it was 1 speed I didn't have to worry about the front D. I just zip-tied the front of the fender to the seat tube. Since I'm now running gears, with the wheel more forward in the drop-outs, I don't have the clearance under the brake cable. If I only had discs.... no problem.

    The JANDD rack also won't fit with 29er tires, 2.3's anyway. I had mine on using a couple extenders at the drop-outs and it worked fine.

    Good luck and great looking bike.

    Mojoe

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg
    I'm sure if you just grease the eyelets they'll stay fine. Do you have to pull the rear disc caliper anyway to change a flat w/ horiz dropouts? What's a few more turns of the allen wrench... and of course if the eyelet does strip despite your best efforts, that's why God Made Zipties.

    And, oh yes, there's always the hope you can spot the puncture with the wheel fully mounted and then just pull the tube out to patch it w/o removing the wheel.

    Nice looking ride, for sure.
    I think if I have the caliper set just so I can get the rear in and out without having to loosen it. I think if I can keep the rear fender back an inch or so like suggested earlier I might just be able to get it in and out without messing with anything else.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojoe
    I didn't have any trouble getting the wheel out past the fender but I was running the wheel way back in the drop-outs (singlespeed) so that I'd have enough clearance underneath the v-brake straddle cable. And since it was 1 speed I didn't have to worry about the front D. I just zip-tied the front of the fender to the seat tube. Since I'm now running gears, with the wheel more forward in the drop-outs, I don't have the clearance under the brake cable. If I only had discs.... no problem.

    The JANDD rack also won't fit with 29er tires, 2.3's anyway. I had mine on using a couple extenders at the drop-outs and it worked fine.

    Good luck and great looking bike.

    Mojoe
    Thanks for the info. I'm running discs on it and the monkey nuts so it will keep the tire well clear of the rear D. I'm waiting to hear back from Terry at Jandd because I want to be sure their rack would fit but it sounds like it wont. I wonder about the Topeak racks?? My next plan was to take it around to shops after its built and find a rack that will fit.

  10. #10
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    Omm

    You might have to shell out for some racks from Old man Mountain. I hear they work great, but cost a lot.
    "Welcome to my underground lair...."

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRider
    Thanks for the info. I'm running discs on it and the monkey nuts so it will keep the tire well clear of the rear D. I'm waiting to hear back from Terry at Jandd because I want to be sure their rack would fit but it sounds like it wont. I wonder about the Topeak racks?? My next plan was to take it around to shops after its built and find a rack that will fit.
    I tried a Topeak rack. With a 700x35 tire it was really close to the tire. I can't imagine a 29er tire would work. I ended up using a seatpost mount rack on mine.
    Bikeys is good fun!

  12. #12
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    I have a post on my blog from December that shows how I fit the JANDD rack.

    http://ninemileskid.blogspot.com/200...-up.html#links

    Here's another post that shows the fenders mounted.

    http://ninemileskid.blogspot.com/200...ics.html#links

    Mojoe

  13. #13
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    Cant really make out the type of tyres and rims. Info?
    Did you have to Face the HT and chase the BB threads?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gte819s
    Cant really make out the type of tyres and rims. Info?
    Did you have to Face the HT and chase the BB threads?
    Mavic TN719s and Halo Twin rail 29x 2.0. I face and chase all my frames when I build them up. I think the only one I never had to was an Ellsworth. It's just a good idea so there's no headset creaks or stuck BB's later on in life.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojoe
    I have a post on my blog from December that shows how I fit the JANDD rack.

    http://ninemileskid.blogspot.com/200...-up.html#links

    Here's another post that shows the fenders mounted.

    http://ninemileskid.blogspot.com/200...ics.html#links

    Mojoe
    I checked that out and it looks like what I was thinking of doing except for one thing. What I thought about doing to lengthen the struts was to run a lenght of stainless steel tubing over the bottom of the struts with the bottom of the tubing pinched closed and a hole drilled to mount to the frame and another hole drilled where the end of the origional strut is and a bolt attaching the two. It should effectively lengthen the strut and prevent it from rotating. I'll mess around with it and see how it works. Thanks for the info!

  16. #16
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    I thought of that too, just haven't got around to it. I moved my JANDD rack over to my commuter for now anyway. Post some pics if you do it.

    Mojoe



    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRider
    I checked that out and it looks like what I was thinking of doing except for one thing. What I thought about doing to lengthen the struts was to run a lenght of stainless steel tubing over the bottom of the struts with the bottom of the tubing pinched closed and a hole drilled to mount to the frame and another hole drilled where the end of the origional strut is and a bolt attaching the two. It should effectively lengthen the strut and prevent it from rotating. I'll mess around with it and see how it works. Thanks for the info!

  17. #17
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    Took a picture this evening of the fender mounted on my Monkey. The front edge of the fender comes down far enough so it doesn't dump water on the front derailleur itself though the cable won't be so lucky. I had to drill a hole in the fender to mount it to the seat stay bridge. Sandwiched it with rubber washers, flat washers and a button head screw. The back has enough clearance to get the wheel out without loosening the fender stays. With the Monkey Nuts you should need less space than this.

    Bikeys is good fun!

  18. #18
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    Rack & Fender setup

    I ended up going with the OMM cold springs rack because it was the only one I could find that would without question clear a large tire and fender. I had to modify the mount on the left side to clear the caliper and removed tabs on both sides so the fender struts would clear and still be in position to allow access to the pad adjusters. I installed them with some spacers so the alignment would be correct and the fender struts would clear everything. I fabricated an L-bracket and modified a chain keeper to mount the front half of the rear fender so I was able to use the entire length of the fender and keep the front of the drivetrain clean. I had to shave the chain keeper down to where the tire clearance was correct then I ran a self tapping screw and washer (stainless) in from the inside of the fender. Its solid and I love the bike. It rolls so well and the larger volume tires make it very comfortable. Now for panniers and a trunk bag...
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