Surly horz dropout + disc caliper + rotor combo that works...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    No, that's not phonetic
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    Idea! Surly horz dropout + disc caliper + rotor combo that works...

    Yo.

    Peeps have mentioned the need to loosen the rear disc caliper in order to insert or remove the rear wheel on the Pugs because the caliper may hang down too far in the rear and block the rotor's ability to slide past it. This is especially an issue when running it geared and wanting the axle to sit all the way forward in the drops.

    A disc brake caliper and rotor combo which works well is the Magura Louise FR with an Avid Wave rotor. The rotor has low-enough troughs in the waveform that you can position the lowest, rearward point of the brake caliper down into one of these notches and slip the wheel out of the drops without loosening anything. And this is with the caliper in the most forward (and lowest) position, which allows the axle to rest against the front of the drop for no-slip pedaling when running a geared drivetrain. A SS with the caliper rotated back and up (where ever the chain length dictates the axle and caliper must sit) would have even better rotor clearance. Just FYI...

    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  2. #2
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    interesting

    Any idea if that would work the same way with avid calipers (BB7)?

  3. #3
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    wavy rotors

    so in thinking about this more, i have a question about the wavy rotors. Because there is a trough, does that mean at certain points there is no contact (or less contact) between the brake pad and rotor? And does that mean the wavy rotors have less braking power than the normal circular ones?

    Even if the answer to both questions is yes, I would be psyched if this worked for the BB7s. It can't be that easy? Can it? I mean, there is alot of engineering going into the sliding dropout just to overcome the disc adjustment problem. Seems to simple you just use a different rotor. Must be specific to certain types of calipers.
    Last edited by steevo; 01-16-2006 at 04:17 PM. Reason: i kept thinking about this

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by steevo
    so in thinking about this more, i have a question about the wavy rotors. Because there is a trough, does that mean at certain points there is no contact (or less contact) between the brake pad and rotor? And does that mean the wavy rotors have less braking power than the normal circular ones?

    Even if the answer to both questions is no, I would be psyched if this worked for the BB7s. It can't be that easy? Can it?
    I believe the answer is no.
    A normal rotor is drilled to reduce weight and improve cooling. The wavy rotors cut away notches from the edges. However you will notice that the amount of material in any particular crossection is constant. This should give you a nice even braking.
    Craig

  5. #5
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    Thanks TS - good stuff - I assume you were testing different rotor shapes with this configuration because you are missing a few bolts there!

  6. #6
    Obi
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    New question here. Great info to have...

    Especially since it applies to more than just the Pugs! Thanks, if you're indeed trying out combos let us know whats what, as I'm fond of my Hopes.

  7. #7
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    I got my hands on an old Avid wavy rotor to give this a try. It does not work with the BB7 calipers. I was trying this on a single speed karate monkey where my axel is about half way back in the dropouts.

  8. #8
    No, that's not phonetic
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    I was not going to try this with any other combos. I just happened to be building it with the Louise FR brakes and just happened to have some Avid wavy rotors sitting around I was going to use, and lo and behold!

    As far as the Avid mechs go, just take a file and make the rotor slot in the back taller. It's not like all the brake fluid will leak out.
    Last edited by tscheezy; 01-17-2006 at 09:23 PM.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  9. #9
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    Yo Philip,

    Does this mean there will now be a Pugsley freaking out the unsuspecting residents of Kodiak???

    p.s. I'm running Hayes and its only a *minor* pain to losen them a tad before removing the wheel.
    The red couch has moved from Alaska to Florida...

  10. #10
    No, that's not phonetic
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    It will mainly see duty running over coastal brownies along the Bering Sea beach outside Port Moller.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  11. #11
    Baked Alaskan
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    nice

    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    It will mainly see duty running over coastal brownies along the Bering Sea beach outside Port Moller.
    So this will be one of your summer rides when you go WAY out there? Cool, can't think of a better way to terrorize anything foolish enough not to get out of your way when hammering across the beach/tundra.
    The red couch has moved from Alaska to Florida...

  12. #12
    No, that's not phonetic
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    Bring.... It..... ON!

    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  13. #13
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    It works with Hayes calipers and Hope Gothic rotors for the same reason. I built my Karate Monkey that way (just the parts I had) not realizing that there was any problem until I read about it on these boards. I just got lucky.

  14. #14
    Tame the Penguin!
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    Quote Originally Posted by tscheezy
    Bring.... It..... ON!

    HA HA HA....that's absolutely a choice pic Phillip.

    BTW....we took the two Puglsey's out last night in 4" of freshies during a very serene snow fall. Keep an eye out for my thread here in the Surly forum with pics.

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