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  1. #1
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    Gnot Boost and IGH

    Ok. I get the Gnot Boost concept and understand various spacings and washers to make various sizes of hub work.
    How about 135mm spaced IGH with threaded 10mm axle? Surly provide the washer spacers for 6mm QR axles and 10mm threaded axles. Does that mean in theory an Alfine or threaded axle Rohloff can be used with Troll / Ogre / KM?? Would the hub axles be long enough to fit the spacing??
    If so I want. (not sure why as I have 4 Surly's already, I just want!)

  2. #2
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    We are in the process of setting up a new Gnot Boost Troll with an Alfine 8 (SG-S501). Some things to consider; the Alfine axle is actually 3/8 (9.5mm)x26 not 10mm, so the fit in the 12-10mm reducing spacers that come with the Troll isn't prefect. Probably fine, but not perfect. Additionally, though the axle is long enough to accommodate the reducing spacers/dropout/anti-turn washers/axle nut (just barely), the anti-turn washers bottom out on the reducing spacers before they get a chance to make contact with the frame and therefore will have to be modified. Lastly, the dropout slots are now 12mm, so the tabs on the anti-turn washers fit rather loosely in the slot. Again, probably fine, but not ideal.

    Fitting a Rohloff would be a different story. In that case I'd just go with the thru axle version. I'm sure the b/o or qr versions could be made to work. If anything they should be easier than the Alfine/others because they don't use anti-turn washers. Keep in mind that the Troll/Ogre and the KM use different dropouts and require different mounting hardware for Rohloff hubs.

    When this build is finished I'll try and put some pictures up and let you know how it all worked out.
    Last edited by rothrockoutfitters; 12-02-2017 at 11:18 AM.
    Rothrock Outfitters,418 Penn st, Huntingdon PA, 16652.
    814-643-7226
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  3. #3
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    So, after trying many different combinations, I've settled on the following. Using the white/silver '6R' anti-turn washers and running the shift cable 'derailleur style' with the cassette joint 'upside down'. These anti-turn washers have long tabs which don't interfere with the reducing spacers. I didn't love the cable routing at first, but it works well and has two benefits; 1. it makes removing the cable anchor from the cassette joint extremely easy and 2. because the cassette joint is now 'upside down' the better gear alignment marks are on top. I like these better because they don't have the cloudy window and seem more...precise than the top set.
    The 12mm dropout does leave, you guessed it, 2mm of extra space for the anti-turn washers. Not too worried about this. I made sure the tabs were touching the dropout before tightening the axle nuts to their 30-45nm spec. Because they only want to rotate in one direction, I don't see it being a problem. It is important to check the axle nuts regularly, especially if you ride...aggressively! Hope the photos explain better. Have at it, folks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gnot Boost and IGH-img_2634-1-.jpg  

    Gnot Boost and IGH-img_2635.jpg  

    Gnot Boost and IGH-img_2636.jpg  

    Gnot Boost and IGH-img_2637.jpg  

    Gnot Boost and IGH-img_2638.jpg  

    Rothrock Outfitters,418 Penn st, Huntingdon PA, 16652.
    814-643-7226
    .

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rothrockoutfitters View Post
    So, after trying many different combinations, I've settled on the following. Using the white/silver '6R' anti-turn washers and running the shift cable 'derailleur style' with the cassette joint 'upside down'. These anti-turn washers have long tabs which don't interfere with the reducing spacers. I didn't love the cable routing at first, but it works well and has two benefits; 1. it makes removing the cable anchor from the cassette joint extremely easy and 2. because the cassette joint is now 'upside down' the better gear alignment marks are on top. I like these better because they don't have the cloudy window and seem more...precise than the top set.
    Very nice description and very useful. I mounted the Alfine 8 on my pre-gnot-boost Troll at 90 degrees, using the (I think) blue/green anti-rotation washers. The line routes up along the seat stay rather than along the chain stay. However it leaves neither gear alignment spot easily accessible. The windowed spot races rearward, so you can see it, but not at the same time you are making the adjustment. In fact, I didn't know there was a windowless alignment spot until I had been riding the bike for more than a year. Sadly that was after I had ridden for several days with a misaligned hub because that cloudy window had gotten mud on the inside, and I figured I either had to remove that piece to clean out the window (and risk not being able to reassemble it on the side of the road), adjust it my trial and error (and risk making it worse), or limp through the last few days of my trip on the gears that worked, and fix it at home. I chose option 3, but when I got home (with only 2 working gears for the last 5 miles), I took the wheel off and learned that I had had the ability to align my shifter all along.

    I don't know if that 90 degree shift would work on the gnot boost dropouts or not. I think I would prefer that routing to the 180, but easy access to that alignment window sure would be nice.

    Untitled by rob e, on Flickr

    IMG_20150804_180637 by rob e, on Flickr

    Untitled by rob e, on Flickr

    And now that I look at the photos, I wonder if I can see those marks while looking back and adjusting the gear shifter. Sonofa...

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