first gen Krampus rear wheel play - cause? solution?

[Hman0217]

So back in April I took possession of a 1st get Krampus. While I love the bike, there's one thing that I'd really love to remedy: basically, the rear wheel isn't that stiff in the back. I can wiggle it left to right more than it seems I should be able to. I can't say my ride quality is compromised but play is generally not good, mechanically speaking.

I first tried pushing the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts but the 3-inch knards hit the seat stays. I then went back a good half inch and that was too much. I found the happy spot in the middle and the wheel is straight with no rub.

This is the stock rabbit hole setup, FYI

The PO told me that this is/was a common problem with 1st gen Krampi. But I've been scouring mtbr and the digital universe in general and I'm not finding much to catalog this issue.

Is this in fact a feature of the krampus? What can be done to mitigate the issue? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Spudmeister5]

First Gen Krampus (size Large) owner here. The rear end certainly isn't stiff, but it never bothered me. I'm a bit surprised the tire rubs. What size is the frame? Does the tire rub both sides of the stays? I had a tire rub issue, but putting the wheel on a truing stand it was obvious that the wheel was the problem. It is definitely quite tight back there.

[rusheleven]

Is the hub tight?
Can you wiggle the rim back and forth while you are standing behind the bike?


If the hub is good and you are getting that much rim/tire flex you could try upping the spoke tension on the wheel. I would recommend having a pro do this if you are unsure because it affects wheel true and if you go way to much you can rip nipples out of the rim.

[2:01]

As said above, adjust your hub bearing nut. I'm assuming it's a shimano hub. They're notorious for loosening up. Fortunately, adjustment is very easy. Tighten the lock nuts and you're good (but don't tighten it too much).

[Hman0217]

As said above, adjust your hub bearing nut. I'm assuming it's a shimano hub. They're notorious for loosening up. Fortunately, adjustment is very easy. Tighten the lock nuts and you're good (but don't tighten it too much).

Sorry guys was off the radar for a minute. But you hit the nail on the head. Tightened the rear hub, re-trued and voila, it slides all the way in without a rub. Way more confidence-inspiring now.

Having said that, I left the wheel a couple mm back anyway because it sure is tight and doesn't like like it'd clear thick mud/clay. I think I'd eventually love to throw some i35 rims on this to lessen the width slightly and gain clearance. Surely, on the newer Krampi, Surly has gone narrower on the rims.

Anyway thanks all for your help.

[PUGlife]

I wouldn't both replacing the rims as the rabbit holes are awesome, bomb proof rims. If you want more clearance just get some 2.8" tires like the Maxxis Minion or one of the (excellent) WTB offerings.

Changing tires will be cheaper than re-lacing, probably save some weight, be easier rolling (depending on tire) and offer better support due to the spread out sidewalls. For best results go tubeless with gorilla tape (perfect size) and Surly nylon rim strips.

[Hman0217]

I wouldn't both replacing the rims as the rabbit holes are awesome, bomb proof rims. If you want more clearance just get some 2.8" tires like the Maxxis Minion or one of the (excellent) WTB offerings.

Changing tires will be cheaper than re-lacing, probably save some weight, be easier rolling (depending on tire) and offer better support due to the spread out sidewalls. For best results go tubeless with gorilla tape (perfect size) and Surly nylon rim strips.

I think there are differing opinions on rim width for a plus tire set, as exemplified in this thread

That's a whole conversation with a lot of highly subjective elements.

But I certainly can't argue with changing tires being easier than rims. It'll just cost me a few mm of bottom bracket height going that way, whereas the narrower rim would gain me a few (with the same tire)

It looks like Minion 2.8 is no longer being made. Per their website, I only see a 3.0. But the Terrene McFlys have pretty rave reviews.

And yes to tubeless. Funny thing is these were tubeless but the seal was lost in transit (it was an eBay purchase). Since I wasn't sure whether I was keeping the bike, I went back to tubes but now that I'm getting attached...

[2:01]

I would much rather just move the wheel back a bit than change out those awesome rims or plump tires. You can either use Monkey Nuts or chainring bolts to achieve this:

https://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/monkey_nuts

[Hman0217]

I would much rather just move the wheel back a bit than change out those awesome rims or plump tires. You can either use Monkey Nuts or chainring bolts to achieve this:

https://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/monkey_nuts

I'm hearing you loud and clear. Surly themselves say:


"V.2 MONKEY NUTS ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH SHADOW PLUS DERAILLEURS!
Throw the Monkey Nuts that are included with the bike in your parts bin.
Slide the wheel fully forward."

In this blog post

so I was steering clear of that.

Having said that, we know Surly is a bit conservative in their bike advice. Have you all done this with monkey nuts and have you done it with the stock derailleur successfully?

The tires and rims are pretty sexy, I agree.