cross check w/midge?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    cross check w/midge?

    I just lucked into a pea green cross check frame and fork and I am thinking about using midge bars on it. My question is: can I use dual control road shifters like the shimano Sora's or 105's, or do I need to stick with bar end shifters?

    Thanks,
    Rick

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICKH77
    I just lucked into a pea green cross check frame and fork and I am thinking about using midge bars on it. My question is: can I use dual control road shifters like the shimano Sora's or 105's, or do I need to stick with bar end shifters?

    Thanks,
    Rick
    Yeap, you can use STI shifter/brakes levers with the Midge bar. They will be on a slight angle, but will work fine. The Midge bars took me a bit of getting use to, but now they are my favorite The pea green frames were nice, you will dig the cross check for sure.

  3. #3
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    I really hope so. I was pretty happy when I came by that color. I have read on 63xc.com about running a short stem with a 15 degree angle. Is that what works for you?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICKH77
    I really hope so. I was pretty happy when I came by that color. I have read on 63xc.com about running a short stem with a 15 degree angle. Is that what works for you?
    Well, the key to setting up the Midge bars right is to get them high enough that you can ride in the drops most of the time. You want to achieve this extra height, without shrinking your cockpit length at all. So, typically if you are going to bring the bar height up and keep the cockpit length the same you will need a longer stem, not a shorter one. The greater the rise in stem, the shorter the overall length of the stem will be. For example, a 130mm x 15 degree rise stem might only effectively be 125mm in length. Ideally, you want the tops of the Midge bars about even with the saddle height, maybe even a bit higher. My bar is set up about an inch below the saddle. Salsa makes a variety of stems with different lengths and rises, and I highly recommend them. Remember the Midge bar takes a mountain stem, not a road stem. I was able to effectively reach my ideal position with a 135mm x 17 degree rise stem. I also used a raceface 140 x 15 deg that worked well too. The stem I run has a very short stack height so it worked out nice. $9 at Supergo on blow out. I tried to post a picture, but had some technical difficulty. I'll try again later.

    Note: You should really angle the end of the drops towards your rear hub for ultimate comfort and to keep your wrists straight. The side profile shot of my bike has the bottom of the drops too horizontal. The bars are now angled down a bit.


    Good luck!
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    Last edited by 2farfwd; 09-11-2006 at 08:41 AM.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help. A picture would be great if you can get it to work.

    Rick

  6. #6
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    This is a pic I found somewhere when I was looking at fitting Midges's - illustrates what 2farfwd is saying:

    Max.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by felixdale
    This is a pic I found somewhere when I was looking at fitting Midges's - illustrates what 2farfwd is saying:

    Max.
    hey sorry for bumping this up so late, but can anyone interpret this diagram for me?
    Im a bit confused.
    Im also trying to fit the midges on a frame...

  8. #8
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    Sure, the five pics all show the same Midge drop bar and a flat bar but each pic has a different length stem for the drop bar. The flat bar always has a 110mm stem The circles show hand positions. 2 on the flat bar (1 for flat and 1 as if a 1" riser) and 3 on the drop bars - 1 on the flats, 1 on the hoods and 1 on the drops. Compare the circle positions to show how different stems put your hands in different positions.

    You can see that a 70 or 90 mm stem puts the hoods position very close to the flat bar hand position.

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