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  1. #1
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    XX1 knocking/clunking

    I am experieriencing a knocking or clunking issue with my nearly new(90 miles) XX1 derailleur. The clutch clunks loudly when it engages as the bike goes through its travel. It feels and sounds like a locked up seat stay/swingarm bearing. With the wheel removed, when pushing the cage through its swing I can feel it clunk as it engages...so it likely has nothing to do with chain tension as mentioned here:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/sram/type-2-d...ng-822117.html

    I have a brand new one to compare my semi new one and while it swings ok now I can feel hesitation in the beginning and is likely to have the same issue.

    Any ideas? Anyone else experiencing this on XX1?

    I semi-solved the issue by soaking the cage attachment area in dumond liquid lube.

    It still makes noise and clunks while stationary and cycling the suspension but not while in motion on the bike.

    SRAM: please pipe in here... What causes the clunking? Is it "normal" or is it something that needs to be returned for warranty? Is it a set up issue?(aka user error?)
    Last edited by tshred; 01-28-2013 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Found a "fix."

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tshred View Post
    ...makes noise and clunks while stationary and cycling the suspension but not while in motion on the bike.
    I think you just answered your own question. Ride, smile, repeat... fixed.

  3. #3
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    Still clunkin

    Sadly No,
    It started clunking and creaking on the next ride..any bright ideas?

  4. #4
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    Hmm... and you can actually hear this while riding? I've got about three months of pretty hard use on my XO Type 2 (mid-cage) and I have noticed the klunking or lite knocking sensation when cycling the suspension at a standstill, but all I notice while riding is blissful silence.

    If it's something you can hear over the noise of flying dirt/debris, etc. then perhaps there is something wrong, or maybe it's a function of clutch break-in and it'll get better with use? Or maybe it's an early-run XX1 quirk? Sorry I can't help with your case, but I would caution against fixating on it. Like I say if it's truly something you hear WHILE riding you may have an issue, though based on my own background of 'fixing' noises I'd say you may have created the creaking yourself by soaking the part in lube. Many modern bearing surfaces are designed to 'self-lubricate' with use and applying oils/solvents/thinning agents, etc. can often defeat the purpose. The knocking sensation when stationary is normal for a friction clutch-type tensioner but you'd be very hard-pressed to notice it while riding, as you said; however, the squeak is not something I've ever heard. If you don't have easy access to SRAM warranty I'd suggest cleaning it up as best possible with a simple rag, maybe a bit of iso alcohol or window cleaner... something to remove any excess lube that may be oozing out. Even better maybe use a soft brush and/or compressed air to clean up the pivot/clutch area. Then ride it, as much and as often as possible. As counter-intuitive as it sounds, many creak-type noise complaints can solve themselves with use, just a matter of components self-clearancing, if that makes sense?

    Keep us posted if you don't mind, I'm planning on upgrading one of my bikes w/ XX1 as soon as I can find a buyer for a one-owner, lightly-used kidney.

  5. #5
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    There is no squeaking... More like a creak like the sound of a door with a hinge that needs lube. Admittedly, I only notice it while climbing, aka the time I have to dwell on things.. I can also feel it as the "clunk" reverberates through the seat stay.

    My main question for SRAM: Is this noise and clunking normal?
    It doesn't seem so as it functioned noiselessly for at least 7 rides...about 100 miles.

  6. #6
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    Ah so, didn't factor the 'climb fixation' into the equation... say no more, I live in NorCal, home of the Endless Fireroad Climb; I understand having blank mind space invaded by outside annoyances all too well. That's where I was coming from with my 'leave it alone and see if it goes away' advise - the pivots on my Type II-equipped bike are prone to creaking loudly (early GT Force) and it used to drive me absolutely mad, especially while climbing, to the point where I tried soaking things in lube as you have. I finally found a fix for that noise which involved (amongst other things) allowing the pivots to seat-in a bit. However, that's a totally different type of pivot interface than the friction clutch in your derailleur, obviously.

    Interesting what you say about feeling the klunk too. My I-Drive frame has minimal chain growth throughout its travel so I really can't feel that slight play (klunk) at the beginning of clutch engagement unless I'm bouncing it while standing still. Even then it's very slight and feels more like my rear shock is due for service, which it is. But a suspension system with more pronounced chain growth (a la DW/VPP) could certainly exaggerate the sensation, especially if it's made of hollow carbon fiber.

    Hopefully someone from SRAM or at least another XX1 user with some mileage will chime in with a fix, suggestion, or at least similar experience. Staying tuned...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tshred View Post
    Any ideas? Anyone else experiencing this on XX1?
    Yep, started experiencing it after a really rainy ride. Was worse, got a bit better after I sprayed some WD-40 into the clutch-joint through the edges. But on a fully unlocked rear suspension the clack sound and a significant vibration are still there.

    Did a video but you can't really see the derailleur moving so it looks like the clacking is made by something else, but (I'm sure you know) it's made by the derailleur: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDETkAMb9eo

    Would send it back for warranty replacement but don't want to pause my riding until I receive a new one (would take at least a month to where I live), so I guess I first have to get one extra. (Good to have one as a spare, right?).

    Not making that part serviceable is a huge design oversight in my opinion, especially after so many reports of this Type 2 issue. This totally looks like a problem solvable by adding a small amount of grease - if you could access it.

    Also the chain length has absolutely nothing to do with it - the clutch is supposed to move smoothly inside the whole radius it covers.

    Maybe when I get the new one, instead of sending this one to warranty, I will rip it open to see if it's serviceable and possible to close again - will let you know.

  8. #8
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    I have had xx1 since December as well as a friend of mine, and we have not had a single issue or noise with it? I know this doesn't help you but maybe it's an isolated issue?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mx231 View Post
    I have had xx1 since December as well as a friend of mine, and we have not had a single issue or noise with it? I know this doesn't help you but maybe it's an isolated issue?
    It is isolated (I assume you have seen the other about 5 threads about this here and on other sites - these include other Type 2's - X9, XO, XX), but it appears to happen after a dirt gets into the clutch joint of the derailleur, usually carried in there by water.

    So it's either a manufacture defect which makes some of the products more susceptible to this kind of malfunction (which I seriously doubt given today's manufacturing standards - basically the only variable is material failure), or every single product is susceptible and will start doing this after e.g. a proper rainy ride. Read: it can happen to you.

    It's also possible that the self-greasing mechanism the clutch is said to have is doing its job, but in this case a bit slower than it should (it's understandable that it needs to work slow in order to keep working for a very long time). In fact, the clack I have now is much quieter than the one on the video I posted, and I doubt the reason for that is that I tried to spray the thing with WD-40 from outside.

    So it may be a good idea to try to cycle it by hand for a good 5 minutes, over its complete path of movement - back and forth - in the hope that the self-greasing mechanism will kick in faster.

    Maybe we should try to email the guy who designed it, and ask him.

  10. #10
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    "Rough (or noisy)" --> "Fouled bearing" --> "Clean"

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  11. #11
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    Anybody heard from SRAM yet. Is the knocking a warranty issue they are taking care of? I was thinking of pulling the trigger on the whole XX1 group for a Jet 9 RDO I'm building. Then I decided I should do a Google search and found this thread Not suprised, but disappointed because the group is so simple and light.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheel-addict View Post
    Anybody heard from SRAM yet. Is the knocking a warranty issue they are taking care of? I was thinking of pulling the trigger on the whole XX1 group for a Jet 9 RDO I'm building. Then I decided I should do a Google search and found this thread Not suprised, but disappointed because the group is so simple and light.
    I guess if you don't plan on riding in really rainy / wet conditions, then there is not a big risk of this happening to you. (That of course is an assumption in and on itself.)

    I think some of the X9/XX/XO Type 2 guys got this replaced under warranty, I think I've seen at least one such report. (Not sure if that was easier because the LBS did it for them, better check those threads yourself.)

    In my opinion the XX1 is very much worth it despite this flaw / the risk of this flaw happening to you.

  13. #13
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    I took my clunkin derail to the lbs...SRAM took it back for warranty. Haven't tried new one out yet.

  14. #14
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    Mine has done that since brand new.

  15. #15
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    Mine started clunking/knocking after about 20 miles. The mounting bolt also loosened up on me which I've never had happen before.

  16. #16
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    I ride in a lot of wet conditions and my xx1 rd gets really loud when it gets wet and dirty. It pops and creaks and makes my new bike sound like an old abused bike. it is very annoying.

    I found when i clean it and cycle the RD a ton it quiets down a bit, but the clunk never fully goes away.
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  17. #17
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    I have about 60 miles on mine and it started to clunk today. It has not gotten wet and have only ridden in the dry. I thought it was something in the rear suspension and then realized it was my new XX1. Guess I will call Sram next week to try and get some answers. It has pink stuff around the clutch which Sram said was ok.

  18. #18
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    Hey guy's,
    I did a little experimenting with my X9 type 2 rear derailleur today trying to eliminate the clunking. Here is what I did and it completely resolved the clunking issue. What I found is the roller bearing was completely dry of grease. I'm not the most detail oriented guy so if you have any questions feel free to PM me with your number and I can walk you thru the steps over the phone.

    Here is a quick DIY on what I did:

    -Remove rear derailleur from bike

    -On the outside of the RD were the clutch is there is a small plastic cap. Pry the small plastic cap off and it will expose a T55 torque bolt. The is the bolt that says ( type 2 roller clutch) on it. Remove that torque bolt.

    -Remove the outer cage (3mm allen) and pulleys.

    -From there you will see another 3mm allen bolt at the top of the RD. Remove it carefully as the inner cage is under pressure from the RD return spring. I held the RD body and inner cage together with my hand while removing the 3mm allen.

    -Once the bolt is removed pull and inner cage is off pull out the RD return spring and set it aside. The is only one way it can go back in so don't worry that.

    -Once the spring is removed press the center of the clutch mechanism out to the other side of the RD. I screwed the 3mm cage bolt back in the hole and taped on it lightly with a hammer to get it to pop out the other side.

    -From there you will see the shaft with a plastic sleeve on it. (That's the roller bearing)

    -Slide the roller bearing off and grease the shaft, roller bearing's and outer plastic sleeve. Also grease the back side of the T55 torque bolt and the plastic spring guide that sits on the inner cage.

    -From there just reassemble in revers order.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfmoto39 View Post
    Hey guy's,
    ... Here is a quick DIY on what I did: ...
    sounds great! it actually stopped to bother me for some reason, but if there's a lack of grease then i guess i have to put some in to prevent premature wear.

    one question though - now when you cycle the derailleur by hand when mounted on the bike, do you find the clutch resistance the same as before? (except the extra resistance spike on the beginning of the movement which was there previously due to the lack of grease.) or to put the question differently - do you find the resistance adequate to prevent chain slap?

    another question - the plastic cap you had to pry off - was that glued on? did you have to glue it back on? if yes, what glue have you used?

  20. #20
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    Thanks for the DIY. The sound I hear does sounds like dry parts rubbing together and is coming from the clutch. I will contact Sram first since I have only used the part for a week to see what they say. The clutch cap on mine has pink stuff around it and is not flush sticking out about 1/16. It looks like it has threads on it.

  21. #21
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    The pink stuff is lock tight. That's the cap you will pulling off with the T55 torque socket. If you tighten that cap down to much it puts more drag on the clutch action.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfmoto39 View Post
    The pink stuff is lock tight. That's the cap you will pulling off with the T55 torque socket. If you tighten that cap down to much it puts more drag on the clutch action.
    Thanks for your help. I see the little plastic cap comes off to expose the T55 screw on cap. How did you know when to stop tightening it (when the clutch felt resistance)? Mine already has a couple threads exposed when new, so I guess a torque is specified or some kind of resistance setting.

  23. #23
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    I just tightened mine to wear it was from the factory.

  24. #24
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    So I did it, and took some pictures too.

    I was kinda lazy (needed to do this quick) to remove the chain and the derailleur and then put it back and recalibrate it etc., was quicker to just do it on the bike, although putting the spring back and preloading it with one rotation was quite an exercise (in fact probably the hardest bike mechanic operation I've done by far). (I did separate the derailleur from the bike, but did not separate it from the wire.)

    At first I just undid the T55 torx, tilted the bike and drowned the clutch in WD40, but that did not help. The WD40 has made into the roller bearing (as I found when I opened it), so my hunch is that it's not the roller bearing that was the problem, but something external to it (but internal to the derailleur clutch joint).

    So I greased everything, cycled the cage by hand properly, and then tightened the T55 to a level where no chain slap is possible, yet the derailleur cage moves smoothly.

    I CAN NOT BELIEVE the difference this has made:
    1. on the ease and precision of the shifting,
    2. on the increased smoothness of the rear suspension.

    Of course the bad sound went away too, but the bad sound was nothing compared to the other 2 points.

    Should I get a new XX1 rear derailleur in the future, you know what's the first thing I'm doing with it, clacking or not.

    Enough said.

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  25. #25
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    I called SRAM because I'm having the same issue with my XX1 derailleur on a new Blur TRc that I just built up. Basically, the rep said that the knocking should get better once I break in the derailleur, but that it is also "a function of the Type 2 derailleur."

    Both of these statements seem odd since some people aren't having this issue at all and some people are having this issue after the derailleur has been ridden some. Some of the problems could be from user error I guess or based on suspension design. Nonetheless, it would be nice if this fancy system didn't have this issue.

    I haven't ridden the bike yet, so my hope is that the knocking sound either won't be noticeable or will go away on trails. If not, I'll try adding a couple of links (even though I'm fairly certain the chain is properly sized). If that doesn't work I'll see if SRAM can warranty it or else open up the derailleur...not motivated enough yet to open up a brand new derailleur.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    ...Basically, the rep said that the knocking should get better once I break in the derailleur, but that it is also "a function of the Type 2 derailleur."...
    My experience is that it only gets worse with time, plus the extra strain put on the derailleur due to the clutch not working smoothly actually wears the derailleur much faster. Mine started to squeak also on other places than the clutch joint, due to the extreme force the jammed clutch was exerting on it during rear suspension flexing.

    It's also possible that all you need to do is to rotate the T55 (freely accessible under a non-glued removable plastic cover; but itself glued with a lock-tite) just a few degrees CCW, to make the clutch work with less resistance, as I reckon mine was way overtightened, and that may have been the cause of it all. If you remove the T55, you can also put some oil in, without removing the derailleur from the bike, or separating the cage at all. Whether this voids the warranty is another matter entirely.

    Good luck.

  27. #27
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    My knocking hasnt changed one bit. I tried adding a link and it did nothing. THis weekend I'm going to remove the T55, grease it and see if that helps.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  28. #28
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    I greased mine and so much better. Hopefully it will stay that way. Really disappointed in SRAM. I called to get the problem fixed after a couple of rides and they said take it to a dealer. I tried to buy the kit from my dealer, but they could not get it for 30 days so I bought it online. I did not feel right taking it to the dealer to get a warranty when Sram could have sent me the part.

  29. #29
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    i got mine all apart, greased everything but how do you retension the spring? I tried to hold it all together but the spring shot out and now im not sure what to do.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    i got mine all apart, greased everything but how do you retension the spring? I tried to hold it all together but the spring shot out and now im not sure what to do.
    When I did the work on mine I left it on the bike.

    Pull derailleur cage down and lock with pin.
    Remove wheel.
    Remove stop bolt on derailleur cage.(cylindrical bolt with allen head to let jockey unwind)
    Release cage and let unwind (be careful under pressure/ left chain on)
    Remove cap and T55 bolt.
    Remove cage bolt by using 4mm allen one on cage side and one on clutch side.
    Hang cage with chain on wire from chain stay to keep out of way (don't change rotation)
    Remove cage plate, spring, clutch clean and grease.
    Install clutch, spring, cage plate and then cage from the wire, install bolt and tighten.
    Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt (lock pin holds cage)
    Unlock cage.
    Install T55 and set tension by moving the cage to feel resistance.
    Put cap back on.
    Install wheel and adjust derailleur.
    Last edited by dlennard; 04-12-2013 at 02:35 PM.

  31. #31
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    The part I dont quite get is
    "Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt"

    Is this what tightens the spring? Right now I have it all back together without the T55 in and the cage just swings around loose with no tension at all.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    The part I dont quite get is
    "Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt"

    Is this what tightens the spring? Right now I have it all back together without the T55 in and the cage just swings around loose with no tension at all.
    I believe you have to preload the spring once, meaning get the spring in the grooves for it and spin around the jockey/cage. It's a pain in the ass, but it's doable.

    When I did this, the wheel was off the bike and the jockey/cage was apart from the rest of the derailleur, and the chain was off the derailleur as well. I reinstalled jockey/cage with the 3mm bolt just enough to keep things from flying apart before winding up the spring (that helps keep the parts in place until you tighten down the bolt). Once you spin around the jockey/cage so that the little cylindrical part goes past the groove in the upper part of the derailleur, tighten down the 3/4mm bolts. I got someone to help me tighten down the bolt so I could focus on keeping the spring preloaded...Sorry, wish I knew what all the parts were called.

    For what it's worth, I opened up the derailleur and lubed up everything as suggested, but the knocking, while it goes away for a bit, comes back fairly quickly. It seems like the bolts tighten as the derailleur moves. It also seemed like just loosening the 3 and 4mm bolts and the T55 a bit is what made the derailleur stop making noise more so than putting oil in it. Also, I used a sewing needle to pry off the plastic cap that covers the T55, which kept the part intact.
    Last edited by LowLow; 04-12-2013 at 10:21 AM.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    I believe you have to preload the spring once, meaning get the spring in the grooves for it and spin around the jockey/cage. It's a pain in the ass, but it's doable.

    When I did this, the wheel was off the bike and the jockey/cage was apart from the rest of the derailleur, and the chain was off the derailleur as well. I reinstalled jockey/cage with the 3mm bolt just enough to keep things from flying apart before winding up the spring (that helps keep the parts in place until you tighten down the bolt). Once you spin around the jockey/cage so that the little cylindrical part goes past the groove in the upper part of the derailleur, tighten down the 3/4mm bolts. I got someone to help me tighten down the bolt so I could focus on keeping the spring preloaded...Sorry, wish I knew what all the parts were called.

    For what it's worth, I opened up the derailleur and lubed up everything as suggested, but the knocking, while it goes away for a bit, comes back fairly quickly. It seems like the bolts tighten as the derailleur moves. It also seemed like just loosening the 3 and 4mm bolts and the T55 a bit is what made the derailleur stop making noise more so than putting oil in it. Also, I used a sewing needle to pry off the plastic cap that covers the T55, which kept the part intact.
    Yes you have to wind up the jockey. The bolt in the jockey I was talking about taking out is what you are calling the cylindrical part which screws into the jockey to keep the jockey from spinning around. The way I did it was to use the jockey lock to hold the jockey while removing the stop bolt cylindrical then unwinding the jockey. Then take everything apart grease and put back together. After you have it back together wind up the jockey and use the lock to hold it while you put the stop bolt cylindrical back in. It is very easy using the lock to hold the jockey while it is under load. I think the part you are missing is removing the stop bolt cylindrical on the jockey to let it unwind and wind.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    The part I dont quite get is
    "Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt"

    Is this what tightens the spring? Right now I have it all back together without the T55 in and the cage just swings around loose with no tension at all.
    You need to take out the jockey stop bolt which is a small looking cylindrical bolt with a allen head and then wind up the jockey and lock it with the lock button and then put the stop bolt back in then release the lock. The spring does go in a slot on the derailleur and in a hole on the jockey plate.

  35. #35
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    Ever since I heard of this clutch design a while ago I wondered how the heck they would address chain growth issues. Anyone with issues on a HT? It just seems like someone in some department would have seen this coming..I did and I'm a plumber..
    lean forward

  36. #36
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    Thank you! Now to see if I can get it back together!
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  37. #37
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    I took my bike to my LBS and it was a snap to get it back together. I removed the jockey stop bolt, got the spring into place and we wound it up basically 1 full rotation. tightened everything up and set the t55 bolt close to where it was stock. The knocking is gone now and shifting does feel a little crisper. Not sure how long it will last, but now that I know what to do i dont mind servicing the parts on a regular basis. Here in the PNW we do a lot of wet/muddy rides, so every 3-4 months i tear down my bike and clear/grease it all anyway.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    ...although putting the spring back and preloading it with one rotation was quite an exercise...
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    ...got the spring into place and we wound it up basically 1 full rotation...
    just saying, maybe you did not notice my post.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    just saying, maybe you did not notice my post.
    your post was spot on. For anyone with knocking noise i would just remove the t55, add a little grease and then tighten the t55 to a point where the knock is gone but the clutch engages. Even just backing off the t55 a tad might be the best solution.

    Thanks to everyone who was willing to mess with a $300+ bike part and post up info to the rest of us!
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  40. #40
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    I know it's only been a couple of weeks for some of you guys, but how is the FIX working out. I'm thinking of getting a clutch derailleur, but I'm on the fence with brands. I currently have a new XO 10spd system and would like to keep my shifters, but will jump ship if I have to.

  41. #41
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    So I've helped quite a few people "cure" the clunk. We have been removing the t55, adding a little grease and then loosening the 3mm and 4mm bolts until you get the desired spot between no tension and clunking. I dont think taking it all the way apart is really needed.

    I have noticed that while the 3mm stays in place (outside derailleur), the 4mm (under t55) seems to move a little. I suspect that over time that bolt is tightening and adding too much resistance which causes the clunk. I may try adding a washer to see if that will help keep the bolt from self-tightening.
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    So it sounds like your taking a tiny bit of resistance out of the system. Have you tried adding lock tight to that 4mm bolt. I've never had an opportunity to play with Srams of Shimano's derailleur. After you've reached the sweet spot how much tension is still in the system. My goal is to remove my MRP Micro chain guide and add a clutch derailleur in it's place. The chain guide does a great job of eliminating some of chain slap, but I find the roller to be noisy.

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    You basically can tighten and loosen that 4mm to any amount you want. I have been backing it off until it is silent when you pull the chain up toward the chainstay. The suspensions feels smoother, the noise and gone and I have had any chain slap issues so it still ahve plenty of tension to keep the chain under control. That's without any sort of guide either.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

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    Thanks for the tips...I'll give it a try.

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    No issues on my HT thus far. Anybody out there running into this on their HT?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sammypants View Post
    No issues on my HT thus far. Anybody out there running into this on their HT?
    I will be after reading this thread. I was saving the group for a trail 29er FS, but not anymore!
    2 wheels == True

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamenstall View Post
    I know it's only been a couple of weeks for some of you guys, but how is the FIX working out. I'm thinking of getting a clutch derailleur, but I'm on the fence with brands. I currently have a new XO 10spd system and would like to keep my shifters, but will jump ship if I have to.
    The noise on mine came back shortly after the "fix," I think because (as Mr. Lynch noted) the bolt tightens over time. I really don't notice the noise going dh, and only some times notice it while climbing, so I'm just go leave good enough alone. I still think the system is pretty awesome and would get it again.

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    if someone can shot a video the next time they grease one of these derailleurs that would be greatly appreciated. i want to grease mine up, but i having a bit of difficulty following along how to do it without a video.

  49. #49
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    I am having the creak on a hard tail. See pick below. The clunk I think is normal. I would not agree that the creak is normal.
    Watch this video. This is exactly what mine is doing...:

    XX1 knocking/clunking-xx1-problem.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    I am having the creak on a hard tail. See pick below. The clunk I think is normal. I would not agree that the creak is normal.
    I had the exact same creek. A couple drops of nanolube (I'm sure any good lube would do), and it's been quite for the past 5 rides.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mastakilla View Post
    if someone can shot a video the next time they grease one of these derailleurs that would be greatly appreciated. i want to grease mine up, but i having a bit of difficulty following along how to do it without a video.
    Yes +1

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I had the exact same creek. A couple drops of nanolube (I'm sure any good lube would do), and it's been quite for the past 5 rides.
    where are exactly are you putting the lube?

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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    where are exactly are you putting the lube?
    Oops..forgot to mention that detail. I lubed the derailleur mounting bolt area (derailleur side).

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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    Oops..forgot to mention that detail. I lubed the derailleur mounting bolt area (derailleur side).
    Forgive me, but are you referring to the hanger bold that holds it onto the frame?

  55. #55

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    yes. Name:  XX1 problem.jpg
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    wow, that is what i thought you meant, but i'm surprised as it is not part of the type 2 clutch. regardless, if i get the creaking again i will try it!!! thanks.

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    Hi mates,

    May I know how to remove the plastic cover exposing the T55?

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    if you havent figured it out yet, just slide a razor blade under it and it pops off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Hi mates,

    May I know how to remove the plastic cover exposing the T55?
    the plastic is the black circle inside the circle with the "TYPE 2.." letters.

    i almost broke the thing as i was trying to pry off the outer circle.

    the inner, plastic circle, pops off almost by itself - very easily.

  60. #60
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    Thanks for sharing this DIY. I was a bit worried opening this up because of the spring tension from reading this thread but to those of you that plan on doing this fix. It only took me just about 20 mins. It was really easy and the spring was easy to put on. Just screw in the 3mm bolt first (of course not all the way), just enough for you to still be able to wind the spring using the first part of the cage as a leverage.

    Anyway, I greased everything inside even the spring! The result is super smooth suspension and the annoying knocking is gone!

    Fyi.. Mine is the Type 2 X9 and it did have grease (brown in color) inside the bearing but very little. Even on the spring it has grease but thick grease. I used slick honey.

  61. #61
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    Just got my xx1 on my yeti sb 66 c and it does the same clunking noise. Calling sram tomorrow. This is brand new out of the box. We should not be having problems like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timyetisb66c View Post
    Just got my xx1 on my yeti sb 66 c and it does the same clunking noise. Calling sram tomorrow. This is brand new out of the box. We should not be having problems like this.
    go get them, by all means. although the structure of today's megacorps is such that your feedback never makes it to the designer guy, who, i seriously doubt even reads forums like this one.
    otherwise we would not be having these silly issues, with a part supposedly "non-serviceable".
    heck i don't think they are even aware of this problem, which would be a thousand times better alternative than that they are aware, but don't do anything about it.

    mine hasn't clunked since i greased it, but the smoothness decreased over time, and a new greasing would be good to do.

    SRAM, just please make a few holes on the new one so that we can grease it without opening it.
    SRAM, don't be ashamed that your derailleur needs greasing, it's kinda normal in the bike world.

  63. #63
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    I called and they said to take it to a bike shop. I did not feel right having the bike shop spend time on it after I bought it online. I tried to buy it from the bike shop, but had to wait 4 weeks. Another local rider already had his replaced for the knocking. Sram has also changed the chain design.

  64. #64
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    So I called sram and they are aware of the issue. They did say take it to the bike shop and have them call us. They also said they are still working out some bugs. That's kinda bull shit seeing that its been tested and has been available for how long now. I did ask them if I just need to take it apart and grease it and they said it would void the warranty if I did that. So guess I'm returning it and hope the next one is better than the first.

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    I have been enduring the knocking for a few months now on my SB66c because the XX1 was outta stock. I was contemplating opening up the clutch and greasing it but held back because it was still under warranty. Finally my LBS told me to bring it in as the new stocks had arrived. So, I will be sending it in to have SRAM tech ppl check it. If confirmed faulty, I will be getting a replacement. I just hope the new batch won't have this same problem.

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    the thing is, to remedy the clunking, in most cases you don't need to open it, and instead just loosen the big torx screw a little bit (like half rotation or something like that) - and that should not void the warranty in the slightest - imho.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    the thing is, to remedy the clunking, in most cases you don't need to open it, and instead just loosen the big torx screw a little bit (like half rotation or something like that) - and that should not void the warranty in the slightest - imho.
    Hi ypocat,

    Do you mean the screw below?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Hi ypocat,

    Do you mean the screw below?
    Name:  11kbia8.jpg
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    no, the other side, after you remove the plastic cap.

    i ride with the plastic cap removed actually, you can see the screw here:

    XX1 knocking/clunking-xx1-torx.jpg

    using this screw, you are creating pressure on the clutch (you press the two parts of the clutch into each other), which affects how much initial resistance the clutch exerts in the direction made by the derailleur when the chain extends.

    so just try to ease that up a bit and see.

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    Thanks ypocat. That explains a lot. I will give it a try, if my replacement RD acts up again. Did I mention how sexy your RD is...covered in all that dirt

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    Has anyone taken it to a LBS and asked them to perform the 55mm torx adjustment? That way there shouldn't be a warranty issue.

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    What! Everyone's out riding? Still would like to know of updates on the clutch. Also, if you have had a replacement from SRAM, did it take care of the issue?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Thanks ypocat. That explains a lot. I will give it a try, if my replacement RD acts up again. Did I mention how sexy your RD is...covered in all that dirt
    that was the reason for taking that pic! A mountain ride: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zRLmlgOzZk&hd=1

    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    What! Everyone's out riding? Still would like to know of updates on the clutch. Also, if you have had a replacement from SRAM, did it take care of the issue?
    yes i reckon somebody around here has mentioned that the problem came back after a replacement - well it's to be expected i think - there are conditions/environments (e.g. too wet rides), which make this more prone to happen.

    the bad thing is, when the clacking sound is made, it also means that your derailleur body and the hanger (and possibly chainstay) are very stressed - you can actually observe them bending badly if e.g. you have somebody else to cycle your rear suspension while at standstill, and you observe it from up close.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    using this screw, you are creating pressure on the clutch (you press the two parts of the clutch into each other), which affects how much initial resistance the clutch exerts in the direction made by the derailleur when the chain extends.

    so just try to ease that up a bit and see.
    This is the first thing I did on the RD. Loosen up the T55 screw and it didn't do anything. I then took the T55 screw off and compress the suspension (push down on the saddle to compress the suspension/chain growth) and the knocking was still there. Took the RD apart (as mentioned on previous post) and grease the everything where the clutch is. Knocking was eliminated but tension is still there. I have not dropped a chain or heard the knocking again. SUPER SMOOTH Shifting as well!!

  74. #74
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    On 4 different bikes with clunking issues (stumpjumper -xx1, Enduro -xx1, Demo -x9, and a Blur Lt- x0) I popped the t55 off, loosened the 4mm/3mm bolt until the clunk stopped, added a little grease into the opening and put the t55 back into place. None of the bikes have developed the clunk again.
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  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    the bad thing is, when the clacking sound is made, it also means that your derailleur body and the hanger (and possibly chainstay) are very stressed - you can actually observe them bending badly if e.g. you have somebody else to cycle your rear suspension while at standstill, and you observe it from up close.
    Thanks, THAT is the reason I've become paranoid about the clunk. If SRAM could guarantee that the jockey wheels/chain/cassette would not see shortened life I might live with the clunk, but I doubt they would or could. As an engineer, I cant see how this would not shorten the life to some extent. I also have some shifting delays going down the cassette (low to high), which is more annoying than the clunk.
    I am not afraid to dig into the RD, but would not want the warranty voided, so I'm in limbo until this somehow get's sorted out.

  76. #76
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    Ok, so it's not just a simple loosening up the T55 kind of thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    On 4 different bikes with clunking issues (stumpjumper -xx1, Enduro -xx1, Demo -x9, and a Blur Lt- x0) I popped the t55 off, loosened the 4mm/3mm bolt until the clunk stopped, added a little grease into the opening and put the t55 back into place. None of the bikes have developed the clunk again.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    Ok, so it's not just a simple loosening up the T55 kind of thing.
    loosening my T55 about 1/2 turn and cleaning/greasing the derailleur hanger has seemed to have solved my problem. Have about 250 on it since.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    loosening my T55 about 1/2 turn and cleaning/greasing the derailleur hanger has seemed to have solved my problem. Have about 250 on it since.
    If we knew exactly how the resistance is applied, then we would know how to reduce it. It's a pretty crude system that would use screw torque (T55 ?) to increase resistance, but maybe that's how it works. I wonder what role, if any, the 3&4 mm screws play.

    What I am feeling when I move the derailleur forward is classic stiction. Force increasing until it releases (clunk/knock), then moves smoothly until forward motion stops. In this system, somehow you have to generate resistance either thru friction or force. Some material interfaces do a better job of minimizing stiction than others. OK, stop me from rambling.

  79. #79
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    What's the status on this junk? I have 10 miles on my new derailleur and it has started making noise
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  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    What's the status on this junk? I have 10 miles on my new derailleur and it has started making noise
    I've had two tech's look at mine. The last one loosened the T55 slightly and it did make a slight difference, and the shifting improved somewhat, but the clunk is still there.
    I'm headed back in to have it warranted soon. Clearly a design flaw, which is uncalled for in a $400 simple mechanism.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    I've had two tech's look at mine. The last one loosened the T55 slightly and it did make a slight difference, and the shifting improved somewhat, but the clunk is still there.
    I'm headed back in to have it warranted soon. Clearly a design flaw, which is uncalled for in a $400 simple mechanism.
    Oh boy! I'm excited to take it apart and mess with it I bought mine from a online store on eBay. Chances are SRAM won't warranty and I don't want to go through the store I got it from. Turn around times are probably ridiculous. Should have stuck with my 2x10
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  82. #82
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    The 3/4mm bolts are what tensions the clutch. You can crank them tight and nearly lockout the RD, or you can open them way up and make it feel like a non-clutch RD. It is actually a very simple design and easy to adjust. When I took my Enduro Evo to Whistler I tightened the 3/4mm bolts up a bit to reduce chainslap, then when I got back home I backed it off for quieter trail riding.

    Whenever I remove the T55 I always put a little grease inside to hopefully help keep things moving smoothly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Oh boy! I'm excited to take it apart and mess with it I bought mine from a online store on eBay. Chances are SRAM won't warranty and I don't want to go through the store I got it from. Turn around times are probably ridiculous. Should have stuck with my 2x10
    Just an FYI, I had SRAM warranty mine through my LBS and they actually sent the new derailleur before getting the old one back. The whole process took about a week. The new derailleur clunks a bit, but far less than the old one, so I've just left it alone since I can't feel it while riding.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    Just an FYI, I had SRAM warranty mine through my LBS and they actually sent the new derailleur before getting the old one back. The whole process took about a week. The new derailleur clunks a bit, but far less than the old one, so I've just left it alone since I can't feel it while riding.
    if i was a SRAM shareholder, i'd be majorly angered how they waste money and good name on this. Somebody at SRAM should clearly be fired. The least they could have done is to release a service manual specifically to fix this issue and making it not lose warranty. Very naive and dumb.

  85. #85
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    What are you guys using besides a T-55 to loosed the clutch screw? Do I have to go out a buy a T-55?
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    large allen wrench. i don't recall for sure, but i want to say it was a 8mm or 10mm

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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    large allen wrench. i don't recall for sure, but i want to say it was a 8mm or 10mm
    A 8mm Allen will work.

    I took my T55 off, loosened the 3/4 mm Allen's, greased everything and then tightened the 3/4 back up and put it all back together. Now I have no tension on the Derail. I have tightened everything back as tight as it will go and nothing.

    Not sure where to go from here. What a POS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    A 8mm Allen will work.

    I took my T55 off, loosened the 3/4 mm Allen's, greased everything and then tightened the 3/4 back up and put it all back together. Now I have no tension on the Derail. I have tightened everything back as tight as it will go and nothing.

    Not sure where to go from here. What a POS.
    i'd guess you haven't gone far enough with the T55... maybe!

    did you undo and grease the clutch too? (2 parts afaik) could be there's too much grease in it?

    undo it again and put it back again, must work

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    A 8mm Allen will work.

    I took my T55 off, loosened the 3/4 mm Allen's, greased everything and then tightened the 3/4 back up and put it all back together. Now I have no tension on the Derail. I have tightened everything back as tight as it will go and nothing.

    Not sure where to go from here. What a POS.
    actually this also sounds like you lost tension on the spring and you haven't re-tension/re-loaded it by one rotation

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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    actually this also sounds like you lost tension on the spring and you haven't re-tension/re-loaded it by one rotation
    Hmmm, could you explain?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Hmmm, could you explain?
    too bad something happened with this forum and the old pictures aren't displaying. anyway check my older post (it did contain some very good pictures initially - i hope they come back) - http://forums.mtbr.com/sram/xx1-knoc...l#post10289579

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    Think I figured out that the 55mm Torx is simply a plastic cap that supports and locks the inner 4mm hex shaft. That 4mm shaft must apply the resistance for the arm because I backed it out 1/4 turn, it released the knocking/clunking arm and is now quite smooth. The 55mm torx cap I believe is what locks the 4m in place.
    What do you think, and have you tried that adjustment, w/o removing everything and re-greasing, and did that work for you?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Think I figured out that the 55mm Torx is simply a plastic cap that supports and locks the inner 4mm hex shaft. That 4mm shaft must apply the resistance for the arm because I backed it out 1/4 turn, it released the knocking/clunking arm and is now quite smooth. The 55mm torx cap I believe is what locks the 4m in place.
    What do you think, and have you tried that adjustment, w/o removing everything and re-greasing, and did that work for you?
    it's most likely like you are saying (and another person here had pointed out) - I did this some time ago and don't exactly remember if it's the T55 or the screw(s) you gain access to by removing the T55 - but basically just lowering the clutch pressure should fix this in most cases.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    it's most likely like you are saying (and another person here had pointed out) - I did this some time ago and don't exactly remember if it's the T55 or the screw(s) you gain access to by removing the T55 - but basically just lowering the clutch pressure should fix this in most cases.
    I have the same issue with xx1 and sb66 carbon. Will check first with the dealer if SRAM France has a replacement for this.

    If not, will ask the dealer to do the grease trick.

    Gerome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by french_yeti View Post
    If not, will ask the dealer to do the grease trick.

    Gerome.
    I don't believe you have to go to the trouble of complete dis-assembly, just remove the 55mm torx threaded cap and then turn the 4mm hex a 1/4 turn or so to the left, or just enough to loosen the stick-slip feel of the arm. Then replace the 55mm torx to a "snug" fit to retain the position of the 4mm hex. Careful, the 55mm cap is a fine threaded plastic so cross-threading is a definite possibility.

  96. #96
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    Type 2 Clutch Overhaul

    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to fully disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur around six months ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHwick View Post
    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia
    Outstanding...thanks!

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHwick View Post
    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to fully disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur around six months ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia
    Thanks, to be kept in my favorites, once I hear back from SRAM I might definitively use it !

    G

  99. #99
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    I warrantied mine and the new one doesn't have anywhere near the tension as my old one. I can actually move this one very easily vs. really having to pull on my first one.

    No pops, clunks or pings after 5 rides so far and the chain is staying on and no slap. I wonder if they changed how they are doing the tension?

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    I warrantied mine and the new one doesn't have anywhere near the tension as my old one. I can actually move this one very easily vs. really having to pull on my first one.

    No pops, clunks or pings after 5 rides so far and the chain is staying on and no slap. I wonder if they changed how they are doing the tension?
    From what's been suggested above the variability in all of this, it may just be someone in the factory tightening the 4mm too tight on certain ones. Perhaps you just got one that was tensioned properly.
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  101. #101
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    I found it wil sometimes tighten from use so you just pop off the t55 and give the 4mm a 1/4 turn back.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  102. #102
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    Problem solved! Sold my XX1.
    The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates
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  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Problem solved! Sold my XX1.
    What are you replacing it with? 1X10 XTR Trail?

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    What are you replacing it with? 1X10 XTR Trail?
    Haven't looked at that one yet. Just thinking about going back to 2x10.
    The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates
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  105. #105
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    I would never consider going back to a double chain ring after using the XX1. I am done dropping chains. I will leave the double for my road bike.

  106. #106
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    I hear you on that. I converted my Enduro Evo to 1x with a Raceface wide/narrow chainring. I will never go back to 2x or 3x.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Problem solved! Sold my XX1.
    I have just about had it with my XX1 setup. The derailleur creaks and clunks like crazy. I'm thinking about using the XX1 crankset with a 10sp XTR M986 derailleur, shifter and chain.

  108. #108
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    eh? just back of the tension in the clutch mechanism and problem solved.....
    Going back to a front derailleur over the simplicity of a well setup 1x11 system seems erm, backward. Take it to a dealer and have it setup right if you can't dial it in.

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNG View Post
    I have just about had it with my XX1 setup. The derailleur creaks and clunks like crazy. I'm thinking about using the XX1 crankset with a 10sp XTR M986 derailleur, shifter and chain.
    Take it to a LBS, they will likely warranty it. That's what I did, and it's been fine since.

  110. #110
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    Crap, now the new one is popping and clunking...It doesn't really feel tight like the last one did but I will go through it again. Wow...worked properly for 2 months...
    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    I warrantied mine and the new one doesn't have anywhere near the tension as my old one. I can actually move this one very easily vs. really having to pull on my first one.

    No pops, clunks or pings after 5 rides so far and the chain is staying on and no slap. I wonder if they changed how they are doing the tension?

  111. #111
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    I have the same klunking on my XX1. I thought I had a rear suspension issue as it was happening as the suspension cycled. I can almost feel it through to my seat. I don't really hear I too much, it's more the reverberation through the frame. I was hoping a few thousand cycles of the clutch and it would go away. Only have about 6 good rides on it so far. It is making me a bit mental so I may need to try something.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devin's Dad View Post
    I have the same klunking on my XX1.
    Yep, same as me. I had mine warranted and now all is well. Take it to you LBS and SRAM will most likely send a replacement.

  113. #113
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    FYI... I took he rd apart and greased it. The noise went away but 3 months and almost 900 miles later, the rd was sticky again. Not much noise but the suspension wasn't smooth so I had to regrease it. Suspension is now smooth with zero noise.

  114. #114
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    I've come to the conclusion that it's just a noisy drivetrain at this point. The rear derailleur and I also think the cassette creaks and pops. The lower gear I am in and the more toque applied, particularly climbing its just noisy and creaky. A big cleaning and lubing helps, but it always comes back.

    But I'm living with it as I just dig the 1 x 11 and I've always been a twist shift guy.

    If I had it to do over, I would modify a 2 x 10 I suspect with one of the low gear cogs out there and go 1 x 10
    "The thing is, Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care."

  115. #115
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    I have a New Jet 9 RDO whit XX1, i ride my bike for 3 months, and im very disappointed with my XX1, i have a terrible sound when i climb !!!!

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by juanmamtb View Post
    I have a New Jet 9 RDO whit XX1, i ride my bike for 3 months, and im very disappointed with my XX1, i have a terrible sound when i climb !!!!
    All l can say is take it to LBS and get it warranted.

  117. #117
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    i think i need to unsubscribe to this thread. it is just doom and gloom. So you might ask why i am watching it? well because i too had some creaking in the rear derailleur early on. i followed some advice to loosen the tension and grease the clutch and it has been fantastic ever since. well over 1000 miles since then. in total i have three bikes all with xx1 and i could not be happier. i wish you all the same turn around i had and nothing but happy riding.

  118. #118
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    I have a 1 year old XX1 system on my hardtail and it has been flawless.

    However, I just built a new full suspension 29er with XX1 and this one will have a pop once in a while under heavy torque load. Only been on two rides so far and on the second ride it did the pop less often but still did it. I'm wondering if I should add a link to the chain as the the RD seems to be under a bit more tension than on my hardtail. I'm guessing it has to do with the movement of the suspension, gear position, and how hard I'm mashing the pedals but I can't be sure what is causing the pop, is it the cassette, derailleur, chain... Just not sure.

    UPDATE: I just came back from a ride and checked the derailleur, sure enough it's got the dreaded creak problem. I will look into greasing it as discussed earlier in this thread. Thanks guys for offering up a fix, otherwise I will be seeing if I can get it replaced under warranty.

    UPDATE #2: Spoke with the online seller I purchased my XX1 R/D from and they are willing to do an exchange for me and cross ship a replacement R/D when I ship them the one I have. Will report what I find when I get the replacement.

    UPDATE #3: Received replacement R/D under warranty from bike shop, installed in on bike, creaking is gone. Hopefully it does not come back.
    Last edited by Epic_Dude; 04-25-2014 at 05:46 AM.

  119. #119
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  120. #120
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    Praise be to the glory of this thread! I was starting to pull my hair out with the horrendous creaking/clunking/popping noise from my dream ride. I thought I had a fragged bb30...Nope. Thought my chain ring spacing from CL was way off...Nope. Perfect 49mm. B-Screw adjustment was in fact off. Set to 13mm and we'll see if that helps with some of the chain noise. However I just went into the garage and wiggled the RD and sure enough...CRREEEEK! Source discovered. I will pull apart tomorrow. Thanks MTBR!
    Santa Fe, NM

  121. #121
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    XX1 knocking/clunking

    I had to lube the casstte twice within twenty rides. The second time I really torqued the lock nut. I hear an occasional pop which is not too annoying.


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  122. #122
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    There is an excellent article with pic about how to fix this problem at SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia.

    If you want to use a xx pf30 crankarm with a BCD 120/80 mm, 4 bolt, what chainring can you use in the 80 position? I mean what manufacture makes a say 32 tooth with a 80 bcd, 4 bolt wide/narrow?

    Would hate to drop another $300 for a crankarm.

  123. #123
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    Just opened up my brand new XO1 derailleur to grease the cage pivot bearing. It was close to bone dry and the cage had a huge amount of spring tension, almost thought it was seized at first.

    Removed the bearing and greased with park tool polylube 1000. Reinstalled and the cage moves much more easily and smoother, I think this is a must do for everyone. Only issue I had was I broke the dust cap which covers the huge torq screw, but looks okay without it.

  124. #124
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    Just found this. Might be the solution:

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

    Hope it works for you.

  125. #125
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    Re: XX1 knocking/clunking

    Quote Originally Posted by Phread View Post
    Just found this. Might be the solution:

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

    Hope it works for you.
    It's a good manual, it worked for me on my xo.

  126. #126
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    Here is my experience with XX1. I have owned a XX1 drivetrain since late october of 2012. I first had the drivetrain on a Intense Carbine and it is now on a Intense T275. My issues have only been with the cassette and chainring's durability. The system worked great for the first 600 miles as long as I kept it clean. It always knocks, grinds and pops when the chainring has dirt build up around the teeth. So I clean the drivetrain nearly every ride. I changed the chain at .60 on the Park Tool gauge and immediately had issues with skipping in the 36T and 42T cogs and popping and grinding on the 32T chainring. I contacted Sram and was told that the cassette should last longer than 600 miles. Sram sent me a new cassette and I returned the used one. They also threw in a new chain and 30T chainring. I was very impressed with Sram for the fantastic customer service and the fact that they sent me over $600 worth of new parts. They also send you new parts and ask that you return the old stuff in the pre-paid shipping packaging so that you can continue to ride until the new stuff arrives. I have always been a Shimano guy but this has made me very happy to be on Sram stuff and Shimano doesn't seem to realize that a big group of riders wants to be on a 1X system. Anyway, after receiving the new chain, chainring and cassette, I changed out the parts and had a completely quiet drivetrain once again. Two weeks ago I checked the chain on the Park Tool gauge and it was at .45 with 480 miles on this chain. I happened to have a new XX1 chain on hand so I changed it and to my surprise, I had skipping in the 42T cog and grinding and popping on the 30T chainring. I called Sram and again they sent me a new cassette and chain. I am a 190 lbs. rider that climbs on average 1800 ft. vertical on most rides and then descends. I dont think that what I ride would cause extreme wear on the drivetrain. I also am more than just anal about keeping my drivetrain clean. I like a quiet bike so I take a brush and to all pulleys, chainring and cassette before almost every ride. I think I was getting at least 1500 miles out of the past Shimano cassettes that I have owned with less maintenance. I dont really have a issue with the durability of the chainrings due to it being the only chainring on the bike but the $425 cassette is a whole other issue. I guess as long as they warranty the cassette, I will stay on XX1.

  127. #127
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    Which chain lube are you using bear?

  128. #128
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    I've used Pro-link and White Lightning. I would like to know what lube would reduce the most friction.

  129. #129
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    quick question, how hard is it to turn the T55 torx on the clutch? Loosened mine a little today to see if it changes the noise before re-greasing and it un-did really, really easily. Not sure its even got loctite on it!

  130. #130
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    I have a type 2 xo that is 2 years old. Clunked from day 1 until now. I can only notice it when I want to notice it. Otherwise, it has been bombproof together with my 1x10 setup.

  131. #131
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    self tightening

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    So I've helped quite a few people "cure" the clunk. We have been removing the t55, adding a little grease and then loosening the 3mm and 4mm bolts until you get the desired spot between no tension and clunking. I dont think taking it all the way apart is really needed.

    I have noticed that while the 3mm stays in place (outside derailleur), the 4mm (under t55) seems to move a little. I suspect that over time that bolt is tightening and adding too much resistance which causes the clunk. I may try adding a washer to see if that will help keep the bolt from self-tightening.
    The 3mm bolt screws into the 4mm, they screw together. I understand that leaving these not quite tight may reduce load on the bearing, but it also leaves the cage loose, it will have side to side play, which seems not so good for shifting performance or proper alignment with the cassette. I think the 3mm and 4mm have to be snugged up tight, just until they bottom on each other. If you leave them slightly loose they seem to self tighten as the cage moves back and forth under normal shifting. I am still not sure if loosening the T55 removes any tension from the clutch. I am interested in your adding a washer idea. Any luck with that?

  132. #132
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    Hey all, wanted to add some info to this issue. I apologize if it's already mentioned but I don't have time to read the full thread.

    Anyway, I recently did the full clutch disassembly and regressing to solve the type 2 creak (X01 derailleur). Removed cleaned and greased all the clutch parts and the spring on the back side. I ended up doing the job like 5 times as it kept creaking (and 1 was because I oriented the roller clutch mechanism incorrectly). Afterwards it still creaked, drove me crazy.

    After messing with it and trying to see exactly where it was coming from I finally identified that it was the interface between the derailleur mounting bolt and where it goes through the upper part of the derailleur body. I removed it and dripped a bunch of triflow on both sides. The mounting bolt is silver and the body is obviously black. I spun the bolt to work the triflow in as good as possible. Once back together it's basically eliminated all the creaking.

    So while this issue may not be the situation for everyone it's worth looking at, especially if you notice your creaking when you move the derailleur side to side.

  133. #133
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    Mine started knocking after 500 miles. Went through some wet stuff, crossing some creeks, on my last ride. I'm assuming it starts to knock due to the lubrication being washed away. Haven't hosed down the bike since I got it.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 01-18-2015 at 08:25 PM.

  134. #134
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    Dear all, would like to share some ideas.

    First off all with the one way bearing don't just use normal grease as this will make it slip and polish the barrel where its supposed to grip. When replacing the oneway bearing always replace the barrel that it grips too since it also wears out.
    As for greasing the One Way the best product to use is Radio Control Cars Ball Differential Silicone grease, something similar to the below
    MIP Silicone Diff Grease Gel Lube #1006
    This is not a normal silicone grease but a type of mixture to lubricate and create grip at the same time.

    Now some help, as i did tighten the 3mm & 4mm screw i noticed like Mr. Lynch said that it cretes tension on the mechanisim, infact before i read the following post i thought i lost some sort of shim in between the parts. Is this right (should it help to dampen a bit the spring?) or should it be silky smooth?

    Thanks everyone

    Regards

    Ramon

  135. #135
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    Has anybody tried the XX1 type 2.1 vs the type 2? Just wondering if there's any improvement when it comes to noise.

  136. #136
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    Dear all, anyone can kindly advise the torque range that must be used in order to tighten the two screws that hold the spring and clutch.

    Thanks

  137. #137
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    Did a complete rebuild of the type 2.0 XX1 RD and the clicking went away for about 30 mins of riding then came back, guess it's time to warranty for the Type 2.1!
    Ripmo V1

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
    Dear all, would like to share some ideas.

    First off all with the one way bearing don't just use normal grease as this will make it slip and polish the barrel where its supposed to grip. When replacing the oneway bearing always replace the barrel that it grips too since it also wears out.
    As for greasing the One Way the best product to use is Radio Control Cars Ball Differential Silicone grease, something similar to the below
    MIP Silicone Diff Grease Gel Lube #1006
    This is not a normal silicone grease but a type of mixture to lubricate and create grip at the same time.

    Now some help, as i did tighten the 3mm & 4mm screw i noticed like Mr. Lynch said that it cretes tension on the mechanisim, infact before i read the following post i thought i lost some sort of shim in between the parts. Is this right (should it help to dampen a bit the spring?) or should it be silky smooth?

    Thanks everyone

    Regards

    Ramon
    I had this situation exactly, tried the method mentioned above! All creaking gone!

  139. #139
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    Do you guys get this sound when pedaling?

    I recorded a video of my problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5_OhXcbviA&app=desktop

    is this the same clutch problem as you describe? Brand new bike!

  140. #140
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    New question here.

    @ypocat

    Hello everyone!

    I have a small question. I found very useful your guide, but I forgot how to orient the needle bearing to allow the choir clutch operation.

    NOTE
    model: SRAM X9 Type 2.0


    Can you help me?!
    Thanks so much...

  141. #141
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    I guess I have the same issue...
    I pried open the plastic cover and easily opened the T55, but I cannot remove it.
    i.e after it came out a few millimeters, it is just freely rotating without advancing out (if it makes sense)
    Please advise.

    TIA
    Yeti SB100
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    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    I guess I have the same issue...
    I pried open the plastic cover and easily opened the T55, but I cannot remove it.
    i.e after it came out a few millimeters, it is just freely rotating without advancing out (if it makes sense)
    Please advise.

    TIA
    There is an o-ring on the inside edge. Once you fully unscrew it just pry it out as the o-ring is holding it in place.

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by IntenseMack10 View Post
    There is an o-ring on the inside edge. Once you fully unscrew it just pry it out as the o-ring is holding it in place.
    Thank you, I will give it a try.
    So, no need to remove any other parts, other than the plastic cover, the T55 and the O ring in order to access the area ?
    Once I do that, can I just grease the inside ?
    Yeti SB100
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  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Thank you, I will give it a try.
    So, no need to remove any other parts, other than the plastic cover, the T55 and the O ring in order to access the area ?
    Once I do that, can I just grease the inside ?
    Well, if you're looking to fully lube the assembly, you need to completely disassemble it so there is more to take apart.

    However, in the years that I've had mine, I determined that the clutch isn't really where it was creaking and having a bunch of grease in there actually prevents the roller bearing clutch from doing its job (as well). So I pulled mine apart and completely cleaned all the grease out with alcohol. I make sure to use some tri-flow on the mounting bolt where it passes through the derailleur body, as is shown in post #59.

  145. #145
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    Thanks
    My RD start making clunking noises all of a sudden when on the stand and riding.
    The knocking noise is happening on the 8 highest gear, but not on the lowest 3.
    I tried everything I know including adjusting the limit screws, B tension, barrel adjuster etc.. to no avail.
    Visually all looks good , clean
    I even tried a different chain with less links.
    It seems to me like a clutch issue, otherwise I cant imagine what it is...
    Yeti SB100
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  146. #146
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    Here is the video demonstrating the hard knocking.




    And for reference this is when the chain is on the 3 lowest gears (largest cogs)
    It is quiet as can be, other than the occasional engagement of the rear hub.

    https://youtu.be/bULQO9K2VRE
    Yeti SB100
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    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  147. #147
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    Did you check your hangar alignment?


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  148. #148
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    Yes.
    Gear shifting up/down is smooth - no problem there.
    The knocking just started a couple of days ago... no crash or anything.
    Yeti SB100
    S.C. TB2
    Flash29C2
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  149. #149
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    My m8's $8,000 nzd - Trek Slash RSL has SRAM Eagle & I could here it clunking going up the hill ^^

    Glad I've got more sense than money ;-)

    My used (6 months), new to me 2017 Giant Reign 2 - was Ninja quiet, going up the hill...

    I paid $2,800 nzd =)

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  150. #150
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    XX1 knocking/clunking

    Weird. The noise sounds like the jockey wheel is out of sync with the chain but that will make noise in any gear. It doesn't sound or look like a clutch issue to me. The cage isn't moving when you pedal so the clutch isn't moving either. Possibly a loose cassette or maybe a hanger bolt loose. If you don't have a tool to align the hanger I would say get that checked first. I know u said it is fine but if you haven't used the tool you don't know. The symptoms are of a bent or misaligned hanger.


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  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Here is the video demonstrating the hard knocking.




    And for reference this is when the chain is on the 3 lowest gears (largest cogs)
    It is quiet as can be, other than the occasional engagement of the rear hub.

    https://youtu.be/bULQO9K2VRE
    Shift down (big to little) two gears then shift up one.....eagle has a tendency to lag on the down shift....Spring not strong enough.

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    Shift down (big to little) two gears then shift up one.....eagle has a tendency to lag on the down shift....Spring not strong enough.
    Thanks, but no issues shifting.
    Its only when on the 8 highest gears - I shifted up/dn umpteen times and the issue is VERY consistent.

    It's 1x11 XX1 not 1x12 eagle...
    Although my Front chain wheel is the eagle one, as I find it a big improvement of the XX1 chain wheel.
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  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Weird. The noise sounds like the jockey wheel is out of sync with the chain but that will make noise in any gear. It doesn't sound or look like a clutch issue to me. The cage isn't moving when you pedal so the clutch isn't moving either. Possibly a loose cassette or maybe a hanger bolt loose. If you don't have a tool to align the hanger I would say get that checked first. I know u said it is fine but if you haven't used the tool you don't know. The symptoms are of a bent or misaligned hanger.
    Thanks.
    I will take it to my LBS, maybe they can troubleshoot it and find out the root cause.
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  154. #154
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    Happy Ending

    At the end, it was not the Hanger nor the derailleur...
    I have a TRS Race cassette which is made out of 2 parts that are connected to each other vie a proprietary interface
    (3 large rings are aluminum and the rest are steel)
    Something got lose at the connection in between the 2 parts of the cassette and that's where the knocking noise came from.
    That's also the reason why it was quiet when the chain was on the lowest 3 gears...
    Last edited by StumpyElite2010; 06-28-2017 at 11:54 PM.
    Yeti SB100
    S.C. TB2
    Flash29C2
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

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