XX Crank Install Issue- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    XX Crank Install Issue

    I've installed the 26/39 XX crank and standard (non-ceramic) bottom bracket on my Air9. However, no matter how many times I tighten, loosen, remove, grease, then repeat, I always have a little bit of play in the cranks. Weird thing is, when I loosen the non-drive side arm, the bolt breaks loose, spins freely for about a turn or so, and then develops a lot of resistance again, kinda like if it were cross-threaded in the spindle (which it is not!). At one point, the large nut holding the bolt/washer in the NDS crank arm started to back out and I had to re-torque it. I'm considering returning the bottom bracket and trying a new one. The LBS "mechanic" suggested I just add a spacer on the NDS bottom bracket cup. While that may remove the play, and overload the bearing, it seems like a pretty lame "fix" as it does not address the reason for the play in the first place.

    Anyone else experience this or have any suggestions?

  2. #2
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    I Think if u have a68mm bb shell u hafta use a spacer
    It is possible for rice to absorb other odors in storage. Or could be the quality of water in it was prepared. Mahatma Rice

  3. #3
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    I have a 73mm shell.

  4. #4
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    The bolt-tightening sensation you are experiencing is normal, it's the top of the bolt head hitting the retainer insert and pushing the crank off the spindle.
    The way the GXP BB and spindle works, the non driveside bearing takes all of the axial load. The crank arm and a step on the spindle sandwich the inner race of the NDS bearing, so you really can't overload the NDS bearing, but maybe the DS bearing if you have too many spacers in your set up.

  5. #5
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    are you using a Torque Wrench.. I ask because if you don't apply the right torque, there will be a little bit of play. When I Install mine, I use a regular allen key to tight it, there was a small play, after I checked with a torque wrench and It needed it a little bit more torque. Once It reached the right torque, no more play.

  6. #6
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    I had hoped the tightening on removal was normal, and I figured it was just the washer around the bolt hitting the insert. I was a little surprised that it would actually backout the retainer, but maybe my retainer was not completely tight to begin with.

    I've not tried the torque wrench, but I turned pretty darn hard on the bolt and it is was not moving anymore. My next step will be to try greasing one more time and try the torque wrench to see how close I am to the recommended setting. If I am at or exceed the recommended torque, I might try a new BB or just throw in the towel and stick with my XT cranks.

    kdiddy or sebastian21, do either of you have this crank/BB? With just test fitting the NDS bearing on the spindle, there is a bit of play radially that I would not expect to see (nor do I have it on my XT cranks). Is this normal for SRAM stuff? I realize the XT is a different setup, but I still would expect the bearing to be snug all the way around the axle diameter on the SRAM, but it is not.

    Thanks for the replies.
    Last edited by BamaCyclist; 04-15-2010 at 05:42 PM.

  7. #7
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    I have the same GXP/XX (39-26) 175mm... and also the BB30/ XX (42-28) and I don't have any issues as far as play.. i did have some small play at the beggining when I was installing the GXP/XX but after using the torque wrench.. no more play....

    good luck

  8. #8
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    I tried removing my XX crankset yesterday for some standard maintenance and the retaining, or extractor bolt, came out completely. Not sure how to get it back in. According to the service manuals online, it requires a 16mm allen. Those aren't too common but may head down to a Home Depot to pick one up. Not sure what to do once I get that back in because it seems like ti will only happen again? Maybe it wasn't tight enough to begin with.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by erichwic
    I tried removing my XX crankset yesterday for some standard maintenance and the retaining, or extractor bolt, came out completely. Not sure how to get it back in. According to the service manuals online, it requires a 16mm allen. Those aren't too common but may head down to a Home Depot to pick one up. Not sure what to do once I get that back in because it seems like ti will only happen again? Maybe it wasn't tight enough to begin with.

    I had the extractor (16mm) plate come out the first time I removed my 06' NOIR
    crankarm..I used blue loctite when re-assembling..I didn't have a 16mm hex wrench
    so I went with two 8mm hex wrenches and tighten it down as good as I could..

    Sinces then I've had no issues with the extraction plate coming out when servicing
    the system..


  10. #10
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    Don't think you'll find a 16mm allen @ Home Depot, at least I did not. Sears might have one, or maybe a good auto parts store. I ended up using a fitting I had for my air compressor. The hex part of it fit in the extractor perfectly and I tightened it with a box wrench.

    I've not tried reinstalling my XX cranks yet since I have been out to Moab/Fruita breaking in the Air9.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaCyclist
    I have a 73mm shell.
    It may be just outside the tolerance for the BB. My road bike has a thin spacer (about as thick as the aluminum on a soda can) on the drive side to bring the BB shell within tolerance for the BB.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaCyclist
    Don't think you'll find a 16mm allen @ Home Depot, at least I did not. Sears might have one, or maybe a good auto parts store. I ended up using a fitting I had for my air compressor. The hex part of it fit in the extractor perfectly and I tightened it with a box wrench.

    I've not tried reinstalling my XX cranks yet since I have been out to Moab/Fruita breaking in the Air9.
    You have a shot at Sears automotive at getting a 5/8in, which is extremely close to 16mm. Otherwise Google will get you a few places where you can get a $12-20 16mm hex bit.

  13. #13
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    Ricky from Sram told me to remove the 16mm hex key nut from the crank. I tried to take it off with the 5/8 hex key and it slipped. So instead i kept driving it out with the 8 mm. Once it game out I started threading the 8mm bolt back into the crankset again. Ricky told me to put a pedal washer between the 8mm and the 16mm cover. I did and i put the 16mm all the way until it was flushed with the crank arm. After that I started using the 8mm allen tool. It came out with no problems.

    SOLUTION: Remove 16mm hex key cover. Put pedal washer between 8 mm bolt(apply grease) and the 16mm hex key. Drive the 16mm hex key back until it is flushed *tigthened". Then try again to take out the 8mm bolt. Hope this helps.
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