SRAM rear set up, whyís it slipping....??- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    SRAM rear set up, whyís it slipping....??

    So, I have a SRAM groupset with the rear set up as shown in the pix, these were all bought new not so long ago and have probably only covered around 4000 miles, all of those on a nice flat track, steady speed, no off-roading... However, for some reason, and this has always been an issue since day 1, every now and then it seems to slip, usually under a hard load like slowing down and not shifting down to speed back up but it also has occurred When just going round a corner... Because itís not what youíd call a regular occurrence, Iíve never really done much anything about it. However, I took it for a service in a local bike shop couple of days back and I even got them to fit a brand new SRAM 10 speed chain. Now Iíve got the bike back and this problem is now even worse, it mustíve happened at least 10 times on a 20 mile ride yesterday...
    The gears seem to shift fine but the drive train sounds horrendous when under normal pedaling, it was there before a bit but I just put it down to lack of lubrication, I live in the desert so greasing up a chain just attracts the sand so I normally only use a squirt of WD40 or something... As I say, the noise is unbearable and the crank also seems to click under normal pedaling also for every revolution too, itís a SRAM X0 converted from 3x to 2x, long story but trying to get a crank to fit my frame was a living nightmare... Anyways, all of this has cost a lot of money and itís riding like a sack of sh!t basically so just wondering, am I missing something here...?? Bike shops have done all the work as Iím pretty ham fisted so usually end up breaking anything I try and work on, leave it to the pros... But are they missing something too...?? I should imagine when setting up shifting, thereís a fair difference between spinning it up on a rack and actual riding under load on the road... Does that sound feasible...?? This is all top drawer gear so I would expect it to be silky smooth and quiet as but itís awful...
    So, any ideas anyone please...??
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  2. #2
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    I've found that I can get drivetrains dialed 95% on the stand, and just the final few clicks of barrel adjustment under load. You could check out Park Tools videos on adjusting the rear derailleur and give it a shot yourself, it's not that hard. My general steps are: take chain off and undo cable bolt on derailleur. Adjust high and low limit screws so that the pulley is in line with corresponding cogs. Get B-tension screw close by pushing the derailleur on it's low limit screw and against the b-screw. Re-install chain and use your thumb to shift through the gears, double check limit screws and B-tension. Click shifter until it's in small cog position. Put a bit of tension on the cable and bolt down. Shift through gears and notice speed to shift up and speed to shift down, adjust tension until it's about even speed shfiting up vs. down. Shift to large cog and double check B-tension again. Check derailleur cage angle in large and small cog for chain length.

    Has the freehub been serviced? I had a friends bike with about 1300 miles on all the parts (except chain), and tried adjusting the drivetrain over and over to fix a skipping issue. Turns out the freehub had no oil/grease in it and the pawl springs corroded and broke. So the freehub was working on 1 pawl and under high torque that would slip.

  3. #3
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    That sounds like pretty sound advice, kinda along the lines of what I would think could be causing it so yeh, if thereís videos that will show what to do, Iíll certainly have a look, thank you...
    Regarding the free hub, pretty much everything was all bought at the same time, wheels, cassette, groupset etc and the bike was built in a shop back then, Iíve done around 4000 miles as Iíve said but Iíve never touched it or took it for service since then tbh, Iíd assume most of this high end gear is fit and forget tbh, Iím no expert tho lol, Iíve never really serviced any of my previous bikes apart from a bit of chain lube and Iíve never had any issues.... This bike has been fraught with issues tho and itís probs had the most money spent that anyone could ever spend on a bike...!!
    Corrosion tho, I doubt it here tbh, it never rains in the desert lol, maybe twice a year and I donít usually ride in it or after, wait till itís dried up usually...
    However, I can Ask the bike shop if they did service the free hub and if they didnít , can just take the rear wheel back to the bike shop and ask them to do it I guess, see if that makes a difference... Iíll check the shifting adjustment first tho for sure...
    Thanks again...

  4. #4
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    4,000 miles is a ton of miles for any chain under any conditions. Your chain was really worn and stretched and over time ground the cassette cogs down to conform to it. When the shop put a new chain on it made the problem worse because it doesn't fit on the worn cogs.

    So you need to replace your cassette. And use a good lube (not std wd-40) and wipe it clean and dry after applying.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  5. #5
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    I have to say I find that quite difficult to believe if Iím honest lol, really....?? 4000 miles doesnít take that long, I ride at least 100 miles a week for maybe 6 months off the year, itís too hot here to ride the rest of the time plus thereís been times when Iíve not ride at all in a year as been doing other stuff...
    However, when youíre paying best part of £250 for a rear cassette, am I really expecting to not even get 4000 miles out of it....????

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...e/rp-prod42785

    I know itís difficult to see from my photos but does it really look like my highest gear is really worn....?? As Iíve said, Iím no expert but again, to have to change a rear cassette after 4000 miles at that price seems unbelievable, even if most of those miles are on that single gear....

  6. #6
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    Maybe can see a bit better here...
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mixja View Post
    I have to say I find that quite difficult to believe if Iím honest lol, really....?? 4000 miles doesnít take that long, I ride at least 100 miles a week for maybe 6 months off the year, itís too hot here to ride the rest of the time plus thereís been times when Iíve not ride at all in a year as been doing other stuff...
    However, when youíre paying best part of £250 for a rear cassette, am I really expecting to not even get 4000 miles out of it....????

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...e/rp-prod42785

    I know itís difficult to see from my photos but does it really look like my highest gear is really worn....?? As Iíve said, Iím no expert but again, to have to change a rear cassette after 4000 miles at that price seems unbelievable, even if most of those miles are on that single gear....


    You can get 4k miles on a cassette if you replace your chain at regular intervals before they get too worn. For most 10-sp chains and most conditions 1,000 miles is a fair guestimate for expected lifespan.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    You can get 4k miles on a cassette if you replace your chain at regular intervals before they get too worn. For most 10-sp chains and most conditions 1,000 miles is a fair guestimate for expected lifespan.
    Well, you live and learn lol, still seems unbelievable tho I have to say...
    I had (still have) my last bike, a Cannondale CAAD3 which I bought around 2006 running a XT groupset, I wasnít using strava back then but I would imagine I put well over 10,000 miles on that bike at a guess, this in U.K. with hills and sh!t weather and Iíve never once touched it save for a bit of lube here and there and still to this day itís tight as f**k, rides like a new bike still...

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