Reverb AXS reliability- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Reverb AXS reliability

    Hi !

    I wonder if some of you lads have put some miles using this dropper, and how do you feel about it.

    Is it reliable ? Are you satisfied with it ? Did you have some issues ? A specific thing to say about it after extended use ?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    I am wondering the same thing.

  3. #3
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    subscribed -- I'd like to know too

  4. #4
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    Well...guess whoever is using them arenít MTBR forum members, or donít frequent this forum.

    Iím super interested in the feedback as well, after going Eagle AXS (itís been flawless) now Iím itching to see how well this post works. I have a BikeYoke Revive Max 34.9 which has been super reliable and great, but just always looking for the next thing....
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    Well...guess whoever is using them arenít MTBR forum members, or donít frequent this forum.

    Iím super interested in the feedback as well, after going Eagle AXS (itís been flawless) now Iím itching to see how well this post works. I have a BikeYoke Revive Max 34.9 which has been super reliable and great, but just always looking for the next thing....
    My Eagle AXS has been flawless too ... so good and such a clean set up that it makes me want to go even one less cable.

    From the couple of people I've asked on Instagram who have been using them (And I'm NOT talking about sponsored riders like Nate Hills) it's been 100% reliable.

  6. #6
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    I have a riding partner on one for a while now. Not a single issue and he loves it.

  7. #7
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    I've been using the E-verb for about four months now. No issues at all. Goes up, goes down with very simple button actuation. The battery doesn't last as long as my AXS drive train but it is easy enough to carry a spare.

    If I had to find something to complain about I would say the battery is in a funny position that restricts strapping a spare tube to the back of the seat rails.
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  8. #8
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    Been running 150mm axs for about 3 months, only issue was with seat post clamp torque.
    Recommended not exceed 6.7nm , i torqued to 6nm but the seat return wasn't smooth. It was a bit sticky when it went past the location of the clamp.
    After loosening and re-torquing to 5nm been great no issues.
    Not sure what torque others are setting to.

  9. #9
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    I am on my second E-Verb in maybe 3 months of ownership. First issues I had were that my seat post would drop into the frame. Yes, I used carbon paste. I played with the seat-binder torque and made sure to keep it under 6.7nm, which was over the clamp's torque rating of 5.6. Still the seat post would drop in about 3-5mm during a ride. Then it developed a very slight amount of suspensioning (~5-10mm). I attempted the purge process but it would not remove it. I broke out my calipers and noticed that the diameter of the post around where I clamp it was ever so slightly smaller than the 31.6mm the rest of the post was. I don't believe that the seat-binder would cause a deformation of the post but who knows. Nonetheless, I had SRAM send another post. So far so good. I measured it prior to installing it and it was a consistent 31.6 throughout. I have made sure to use a liberal amount of carbon paste as recommended by SRAM and I have actually swapped to a different version of the seat-binder.....one ride with the new binder and no drop in the post.....we'll see if that stays true after a thorough ride up in the mountains. Other than that, I am addicted to this post.....It's made me thumb-lazy with my other droppers (ie having to actually push my thumb to articulate the dropper lever). The AXS button is a tap and go.....just like my shifters....absolutely love that!

  10. #10
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    have only about 150 miles on mine and itís been perfect, the thing I like the most is itís still fast even in sub freezing temps while my friends revive is slow as hell when the temperature drops!

    like said before 6.7 nm seems really high for seatclamp, I have mine at ~5nm and no issues!

  11. #11
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    I have 2 of them, a 150 on my sb100 and a 170 on my sb130. The 170 is newer and I ride that bike less. Just got home from a ride on it and it was suspensioning a little bit and acting a bit wonky. Upon inspection, this is what the shaft looks like. It will be going back for replacement. The 150mm on the sb100 probably has 700 miles on it and has been flawless. I'm going to stick with them. The convenience outweighs this one flaw.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Anyone, who tried to use it in cold temperatures?
    below 0 Celsius-degree (below 32 F)

    I'm running XX1 AXS shifting on my two MTB XC bikes, just decided to replace the old RockShox Reverb to a new one - maybe the AXS would be the best choice.

    My only concern would be that, is AXS also slows down and also stop working in cold temperatures?

    Me and also my friends we are using Reverbs since 2012 and all died in cold temperatures over the years (without exception!), so that's why I'm asking.

    Mfa81, yours still going fine in freezing temperatures?
    ___
    2016 Canyon Grand Canyon CF SL 8.9 tuned (fully-rigid, Eagle XX1 AXS)
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2373507

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by semmiho View Post
    Anyone, who tried to use it in cold temperatures?
    below 0 Celsius-degree (below 32 F)

    I'm running XX1 AXS shifting on my two MTB XC bikes, just decided to replace the old RockShox Reverb to a new one - maybe the AXS would be the best choice.

    My only concern would be that, is AXS also slows down and also stop working in cold temperatures?

    Me and also my friends we are using Reverbs since 2012 and all died in cold temperatures over the years (without exception!), so that's why I'm asking.

    Mfa81, yours still going fine in freezing temperatures?
    I recently rode at 19deg and the post (as well as drivetrain) worked flawlessly!

    -r

  14. #14
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    I donít know if this is the right place to ask, but Iíll start here.

    I am considering getting a Reverb AXS. My seat tube is 34.9, but when my bike shipped it had a shim and a 30.9 post in it. Is there any benefit to getting the smaller post over the larger diameter, considering the upper tube is the same on either post? I am not sure if there is anything functionally different in the lower portion or if itís just a bigger tube with a spacer in it.

    My BikeYoke Revive Max is 34.9, and it is built differently with larger diameter upper and more robust intervals with the extra space. Itís a very good (ok, great) post and I am conflicted on if I want to move on from it for the wireless capability. I love my Eagle AXS, and is love to lose the extra cable.

    The only other thing that would make me get a 30.9 post would be usability on a greater range of frames (another bike or selling it down the road). 34.9 doesnít seem to be as widespread as the smaller diameters.

    Any help or advice would be appreciated.
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  15. #15
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    Id go with the AXS but instead of a 30.9, get a shim to go from 34.9 to 31.6.

    -r

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by semmiho View Post
    Mfa81, yours still going fine in freezing temperatures?
    Absolutely no problems. My reverb has also been very fast compared to my riding buddies using revive post which slows down quite a bit in cold temperatures.

    blaklabl just get the right diameter post for your bike, there is no reason to use shims! if you change bikes sell your dropper, bike components don't last forever and these days there is a lot of 34.9 bikes. don't compromise your current bike in order to potentially use components on a future bike...

  17. #17
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    On my Second 170mm. First one started sagging 3 to 5 mm during a ride. Bleeding it didn't help. Three months into the 2nd and its developed the same issue. I weigh about 235 and am starting to wonder if there really needs to be a recommended weight limit for the post as the LBS couldn't replicate the issue on the first post.

    Will check the post before next ride for psi, etc., before taking it back
    09 Specialized Enduro Carbon Pro
    14 Kona Process 111 DL
    15 Niner RIP9 RDO
    17 Niner RIP9 RDO
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  18. #18
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    Honestly these are the rare reports I read that scare me off, or at least give me pause.
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  19. #19
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    So after bleeding the post and bringing the PSI back to 250psi I have about three rides in and it seems to be working fine with no sagging.


    Quote Originally Posted by 13JKU View Post
    On my Second 170mm. First one started sagging 3 to 5 mm during a ride. Bleeding it didn't help. Three months into the 2nd and its developed the same issue. I weigh about 235 and am starting to wonder if there really needs to be a recommended weight limit for the post as the LBS couldn't replicate the issue on the first post.

    Will check the post before next ride for psi, etc., before taking it back
    09 Specialized Enduro Carbon Pro
    14 Kona Process 111 DL
    15 Niner RIP9 RDO
    17 Niner RIP9 RDO
    18 Orbea Rallon
    20 Banshee Titan

  20. #20
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    Well, I bit the bullet and ordered one today, looking forward to removing 1 more cable from my bike. Iíve been loving my Eagle AXS, hopefully the reverb lives up to the hype!
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  21. #21
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    Well...

    Installation was a breeze. First ride on Friday was great, no issues at all, did what it was supposed to do and did it very well. 20 miles.

    Sunday, load the bike up and drive out to the trailhead. Hop on the bike to roll away from the car, and post is squishy. I hadnít read the exact instructions for the vent valve procedure, but knew it was similar to my BikeYoke Revive so got out the toolbox and removed the post. Turned it upside down, pressed the valve and heard the air escape, put the post back in and went for a ride. Another 20 miles. Got back to the car, put it on the rack and drove home.

    Unloaded the bike at home and rolled it into the garage. As I was going to hang it up, I realized the post was squishy again. Wtf. Pull the post, do the vent valve thing (after watching the video online), and now the post is even squishier and wonít come all the way back up without being pulled. I suppose some of the air and oil got mixed, and according to the manual will need a service by an authorized service provider (or send back to SRAM).

    On an $800 post that I rode for a total of 40 miles. No thrilled.

    Iím putting the Uber-reliable BikeYoke Revive Max back on my bike in the interim, and honestly it just may stay there. I wanted the less cables but I didnít want more hassle. If that post has to be pulled out every time it needs a venting, thatís a lot more effort than I want to give.

    So before I box this up and send it in, anyone got any tips or tricks, or ideas?
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  22. #22
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    Thanks for sharing all these infos, very useful.

    I would still like to go for an AXS reverb, however, maybe only later on. Hopefully, all problems will be shorted out by SRAM quickly.
    Until then, I've bought a Vecnum moveLOC XC for XCM racing.
    ___
    2016 Canyon Grand Canyon CF SL 8.9 tuned (fully-rigid, Eagle XX1 AXS)
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/2373507

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    Well...

    Installation was a breeze. First ride on Friday was great, no issues at all, did what it was supposed to do and did it very well. 20 miles.

    Sunday, load the bike up and drive out to the trailhead. Hop on the bike to roll away from the car, and post is squishy. I hadnít read the exact instructions for the vent valve procedure, but knew it was similar to my BikeYoke Revive so got out the toolbox and removed the post. Turned it upside down, pressed the valve and heard the air escape, put the post back in and went for a ride. Another 20 miles. Got back to the car, put it on the rack and drove home.

    Unloaded the bike at home and rolled it into the garage. As I was going to hang it up, I realized the post was squishy again. Wtf. Pull the post, do the vent valve thing (after watching the video online), and now the post is even squishier and wonít come all the way back up without being pulled. I suppose some of the air and oil got mixed, and according to the manual will need a service by an authorized service provider (or send back to SRAM).

    On an $800 post that I rode for a total of 40 miles. No thrilled.

    Iím putting the Uber-reliable BikeYoke Revive Max back on my bike in the interim, and honestly it just may stay there. I wanted the less cables but I didnít want more hassle. If that post has to be pulled out every time it needs a venting, thatís a lot more effort than I want to give.

    So before I box this up and send it in, anyone got any tips or tricks, or ideas?
    FWIW, I will keep this "journey" updated.

    I got ahold of Jenson, and their warranty procedure involves me sending post back to them, they send to SRAM, SRAM sends back to Jenson, Jenson sends to me. Not exactly confidence inspiring, in my experience Jenson doesn't even ship new orders reliably, so the idea of them futzing around with my warranty isn't really appealing. THIS is the downside of ordering online and not going through LBS.

    I called Andy at Squish Dynamics in Oregon, he's worked on a Reverb for me a couple years ago and did the work reliably, quick, and kept me in the loop every step of the way. So, I am sending it to him along with my proof of purchase, we talked it through on the phone and he said it just may be a bad seal from the factory.

    I will be putting my BY Revive back on this evening, so I don't have any real down time while it's getting fixed.
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  24. #24
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    Sram told me years ago that pulling up the post by hand is a big No-No. When you pull up, air is forced past the IFP and into the oil. The only way to fix this is a full rebuild. With the air purge, notice that the post is always pushed down to remove the play. 3 months with my post and I've had zero issues.

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