HELP!!! - SRAM XX1 Eagle Crank Binding- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    25

    HELP!!! - SRAM XX1 Eagle Crank Binding

    Been wrestling with major crank binding after installing a new 1x12 SRAM XX1 Eagle crank onto a 2016 Specialized S-Works Stumpjumper.

    Details:
    • Bottom Bracket: SRAM PF30, OS press-in bearings (OEM BB that came with bike)
    • Crank: Current SRAM XX1 Eagle Crank 1x12
    • No spacers or wave washer installed other than the wide one that comes with the crank (per SRAM instructions)
    • Width of bike BB shell = 73mm


    Issues:
    • The crank binds severely when tightened to any level beyond hand force
    • The pre-load adjuster also can not be moved
    • Unable to determine which side of the crank is binding
    • The crank spins freely when the crank bolt is only tightened by hand


    This is driving me nuts. I've installed, removed and reinstalled multiple times with the same results, a severely bound crank. It does turn but takes a ton of force.

    Spent hours searching the web and forum looking for answers.

    Really want to figure this out and not resort to taking it to the local bike shop.

    What am I missing?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,276
    Have you found your problem?
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Have you found your problem?
    Pretty close. It comes down to the right drive side spacer size. Crank comes with a 15.46mm spacer.

    Ordered and tried a 9.11mm spacer that isn't wide enough...leaves too much play. Even with the pre-tensioner the front ring ends up too close to the drive side chain stay.

    I added two 2.5mm spacers left over from the prior crank set up to the 9.11mm spacer. Vast improvement but the crank is still a bit "sticky". Adding only one 2.5mm again leaves too much play for the pre-tensioner to take up.

    Ordered a 13mm spacer that I'll try next. I think that will be the "magic" size. Arrives tonight and will install over weekend.

  4. #4
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,276
    Good luck. Report back.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    892
    13mm spacer is for road cranksets
    9.11mm spacer is for 83mm BB (DH cranks) or narrow stance cranks (not made anymore)
    15.46mm spacer is the correct spacer for your setup.

    If it's not working something is wrong. BB not pressed in properly. BB shell too wide. Threaded preload adjuster not seated properly.

    Have you measured the shell width yourself
    Can you take photos? Of the crankset/preload adjuster and bottom bracket in frame.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_yeti View Post
    13mm spacer is for road cranksets
    9.11mm spacer is for 83mm BB (DH cranks) or narrow stance cranks (not made anymore)
    15.46mm spacer is the correct spacer for your setup.

    If it's not working something is wrong. BB not pressed in properly. BB shell too wide. Threaded preload adjuster not seated properly.

    Have you measured the shell width yourself
    Can you take photos? Of the crankset/preload adjuster and bottom bracket in frame.
    I though the 15.46 mm was the right one also. But torquing to 54 nm caused the crank to bind severely.

    The bottom bracket on the bike is the PF30 that came on the bike from Specialized. I was seated properly when the Specialized crank was mounted so I'd expect it to still be so now.

    I measured the bottom bracket and it is ~73mm.

    I put a 13 mm spacer on over the weekend and tightened the preload adjuster down and it now spins freely. That said, interestingly tightening the screw of the preload adjuster caused minor binding also. I had to back the preload adjuster off a bit before tightening the lock screw.

    So, this makes me wonder, as you've suggested, if the preload adjuster isn't seated properly. I've looked at it and it does appear to be in the right spot, though I have no comparison to judge by.

    My next option is to replace the PF30 bottom bracket all together. I have a new SRAM Ceramic PF30 I ordered for this possibility. I've never replaced a bottom bracket so I'd be in uncharted waters again.

    I picked up these tools:
    • Park tool bearing cup press HHP-2
    • Park tool bottom bracket tool set BBT-30.4


    ...but a little unclear on the best way to remove/install a PF30 bottom bracket. Been researching what I can find on the web.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    25
    OK, solved the binding problem by replacing the PF30 bottom bracket all together. Picked up the latest SRAM PF30 Ceramic bottom bracket. I installed the bottom bracket and used the 15.46mm spacer. The crank went on as easy as can be and torquing to the required 54 nM spec did not bind up the crank at all. I was able to turn the pre-load adjuster as needed.

    Two minor issues (that may not be an issues at all:
    1. The inner face of the pre-load adjuster rubs on the outer face of the bottom bracket - there is a faint but audible sound when the crank spins.
    2. There is a very thin but visible space between the inside face of the BB lip and the frame. I installed using a Park Tool BBP-1 Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Set. I tightened the press and verified there was no space when installing. However, the space re-appears after removing the press. I think that the space is created by the shape of the bike frame. I tightened the press as far as I am comfortable for fear of damaging the frame by going to far.

    Only remaining question has to due with whether or not Loctite or similar compound should be used when installing the PF30 BB. The SRAM instructions do not say to use something. Also, found information online that says not to when the frame is carbon (it is). however, the original BB was installed with something like Loctite. I figure I'll ride it and see if there is creaking.

    So, why did the new crank bind when using the old PF30 BB? Only reason I can determine has to be the bearing shields on the old BB extended farther out than those on the new BB. This extra width caused binding.

  8. #8
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
    Reputation: kwarwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    1,508
    Quote Originally Posted by pwdrskr View Post
    1. The inner face of the pre-load adjuster rubs on the outer face of the bottom bracket - there is a faint but audible sound when the crank spins.
    I would recommend you address this concern as the pre-load adjuster is meant to contact the bearing inner race rather than the face of the bottom bracket.

    For some bottom brackets bearing types this is more of an issue than others, but speaking from experience this can lead to premature failure of angular contact bearings.

    I had this happen with a Wheels Manufacturing PF30 BB. With the replacement BB I solved this by installing a small .5mm spacer between the bearing and the pre-load adjuster.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    I would recommend you address this concern as the pre-load adjuster is meant to contact the bearing inner race rather than the face of the bottom bracket.

    For some bottom brackets bearing types this is more of an issue than others, but speaking from experience this can lead to premature failure of angular contact bearings.

    I had this happen with a Wheels Manufacturing PF30 BB. With the replacement BB I solved this by installing a small .5mm spacer between the bearing and the pre-load adjuster.
    Thanks for suggestion. I ordered a 0.5 mm spacer.

    One point of clarification, the pre-load adjuster is rubbing on the cover, not directly on the bearing itself. The cover has a lip that keeps the cover from being pushed into the BB and thus seems as though would be pressing on the bearing itself.

    Question: you put the spacer between the pre-load adjuster and the bearing cover, right?

  10. #10
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
    Reputation: kwarwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    1,508
    Sorry, I misunderstood what you meant by "rubbing on outer face of bottom bracket". I was thinking you meant it was contacting the lip of the bottom bracket shell rather than the bearing covers.

    As long as the pre-load adjuster makes contact only with the bearing cover then you are good. The bearing covers do press against the bearings and are there to provide some extra protection against water/dirt ingress.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Sorry, I misunderstood what you meant by "rubbing on outer face of bottom bracket". I was thinking you meant it was contacting the lip of the bottom bracket shell rather than the bearing covers.

    As long as the pre-load adjuster makes contact only with the bearing cover then you are good. The bearing covers do press against the bearings and are there to provide some extra protection against water/dirt ingress.
    Got it, thanks again. Iíll take another close look and see what is rubbing on what.

    I found other information online somewhere that suggested backing the pre-load adjuster off a little as well.

    BTW, Iím a little unclear on what the function of the pre-load adjuster is. Before tightening it, there wasnít any real play in the cranks after torquing the crank bolt to the specified 54nM. I only tightened the pre-load ring because the SRAM instructions say to do so.

  12. #12
    Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
    Reputation: kwarwick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    1,508
    Quote Originally Posted by pwdrskr View Post
    BTW, Iím a little unclear on what the function of the pre-load adjuster is. Before tightening it, there wasnít any real play in the cranks after torquing the crank bolt to the specified 54nM. I only tightened the pre-load ring because the SRAM instructions say to do so.
    Primarily it is to remove any side to side play in the cranks. With the pre-load adjuster completely backed away from the bearings there should be a small gap and it should be possible to move the cranks side-to-side slightly but depending on how tightly the spindle fits into the bearings it might be hard to notice.

    For setting the pre-load I usually start by making sure the drive side is completely seated into the BB... a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet is the best way to ensure that. Then I spin the cranks with no chain and the adjuster completely loose and then slowly bring the adjuster in towards the bearing until you start to feel just the slightest bit of drag. If you have a BB that uses angular-contact bearings (which I don't believe the SRAM ceramic uses) then it needs to be a bit tighter, but not too tight.

    Honestly, I find it a fussy adjustment that takes a while to get the hang of. Once you've got it set be sure to tighten the small hex screw to lock the adjuster into place.

    I would also recommend re-checking it after the first ride

    Hope this helps.

Similar Threads

  1. GX eagle chain as durable as XX1 eagle?
    By half_man_half_scab in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 12-04-2019, 04:39 PM
  2. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-10-2017, 02:07 AM
  3. Comparing stiffness of SRAM cranks - X1/X01/XX1 and Eagle X01/XX1?
    By morkys in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 07-18-2017, 05:37 PM
  4. xo1 eagle cranks stronger then xx1 eagle cranks?
    By SB Trails in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-30-2017, 10:07 PM
  5. SRAM Eagle chain with xx1 (non-eagle) chainring.
    By LyncStar in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-27-2017, 05:19 AM

Members who have read this thread: 7

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.