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  1. #1
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    hollow link rubs on frame at pivots, CREAK!

    Another creaky one here, 06 SWORKS STUMPY. Rear susp pivots. The creak comes from the hollowlink rubbing on the frame right at the pivots? I can see metal to metal wear between link and frame under bolts. Maybe little copper slips get squeezed/wornout a mm too flat? These pivots get hammered by tire debris right there, really hard to keep them lubed. Every ride I need to relube the suspension pivots? Good thing I am a mechanic! I cant imagine taking it to lbs as much as it is on my stand. The lube jobs last about 1/2 day ride then creak again.

    thinking about taking a little metal off of the pivot with sander

    The frame has no warranty at this point.... ebay


    ANY SOLUTIONS TO HOLLOWLINK RUBBING ON FRAME?

  2. #2
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    pictures of problem

    here are some pictures of my depressing problem.




  3. #3
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    Is It The Frame Or The Link ?

  4. #4
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    Are you sure you have the right spacers? They should be alloy not copper, replacements should be readily available. The manual shows the parts, it is available online. These parts should not be rubbing, could the bearings be installed incorrectly? I would try to verify you have the right spacers first.

  5. #5
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    Also, the width of the spacrs is specified as 2 mm.

  6. #6
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    The spacers are just copper in color, they are actually alloy on closer inspection. Caliper reads 2mm

  7. #7
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    Bearings seem to be pressed in evenly...

  8. #8
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    Is this the 2006 frame with the 2007 AFR Brain? Have you read this thread regarding the missing bushing, too-small reducer and wrong bolt in the lower shock eyelet? I see you've removed the bolt in one of your pics, so you're probably aware and had already fixed that problem.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=305419)

  9. #9
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    solara-

    No I did not see that post. Yes it is the 06 frame with 07 afr. Yes the bushing was missing but I replaced it. Yes the bolt has always seemed wrong.

    No way in hell an LBS could figure this out. OK maybe an elite few...

  10. #10
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    If the bearings are seated correctly and they sit more than 2mm deep on the inside you will have to remove a small amount of material on the inside of both sides of the link so that it does not make contact with the frame when tightened.

  11. #11
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    Or find a slightly thicker spacer?

  12. #12
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    I will get a better bolt so the lower shock eye has no play, I hope. There is a creak there also. Probably need new reducers by now.

    That issue does not affect the link to frame problem. I am going to try to sand off a small bit of material from the link.

    I ordered one of those BETD links hoping that would fix the problem but it seems that the brain wont reach...see post regarding bushing an bolts above.
    Last edited by lptech; 06-05-2008 at 05:51 PM.

  13. #13
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    Just for the record this bike rides pretty sweet or I would have ditched this project a while ago...

  14. #14
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    These 06 Stumpy with 07 AFR from o_cyclism_o do not have the right lower shock eyelet hardware: there is no bushing, reducers are small and have a lot of play, bolt has a too long threaded shoulder and reducers rotate on the threaded part so there is an uneven wear.

    To fix this you need the following:

    Go go to a bike store and buy a standard FOX bushing 0.5 x 0.5 and a reducer set (used in Fox Triad in Stumpy 2006).

    Regarding the bolt with the wrong threaded shoulder, you have to replace it. I do not know if Specialized sells the bolt alone (they may sell the complete link kit for $$). I bought a longer M8x 60 mm inox bolt in a HW store and my brother in law (who is a car mechanic) cut it and hand threaded to the correct size of 43mm + bolt head:
    * 25.5 mm no threaded length
    * 17.5 mm threaded length.

    I did this 1 year ago, and it fixed all my problems and no more squeaking noise.

    I did not have this frame to link rubbing, so I can not tell about the fix, but for sure there is a spacer between link and frame.

  15. #15
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    According to the parts list it looks like Specialized does sell just the bolt, but possibly if you replace the complete link it would solve all your problems. You should show your link to a shop and see what they think about it.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaceman-Spiff
    These 06 Stumpy with 07 AFR from o_cyclism_o do not have the right lower shock eyelet hardware: there is no bushing, reducers are small and have a lot of play, bolt has a too long threaded shoulder and reducers rotate on the threaded part so there is an uneven wear.

    To fix this you need the following:

    Go go to a bike store and buy a standard FOX bushing 0.5 x 0.5 and a reducer set (used in Fox Triad in Stumpy 2006).

    Regarding the bolt with the wrong threaded shoulder, you have to replace it. I do not know if Specialized sells the bolt alone (they may sell the complete link kit for $$). I bought a longer M8x 60 mm inox bolt in a HW store and my brother in law (who is a car mechanic) cut it and hand threaded to the correct size of 43mm + bolt head:
    * 25.5 mm no threaded length
    * 17.5 mm threaded length.

    I did this 1 year ago, and it fixed all my problems and no more squeaking noise.

    I did not have this frame to link rubbing, so I can not tell about the fix, but for sure there is a spacer between link and frame.

    Why does the specialized catalog list the factory bolt as M6x35mm, 16mm shoulder?
    I assume the shoulder is the nonthread part.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by lptech
    Why does the specialized catalog list the factory bolt as M6x35mm, 16mm shoulder? I assume the shoulder is the nonthread part.
    If I remember correctly, bolt was released as M6, but due to wear problems it was soon replaced by a new M8, with its corresponding link. All new spare parts link and bolt are M8.

  18. #18
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    Hmm so will the m8 bolt fit my link or do I need a new link also?

  19. #19
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    I have the 06 Stumpy with 07 AFR and bolt is 8mm, no need to buy new link.
    Last edited by Spaceman-Spiff; 06-06-2008 at 10:56 AM.

  20. #20
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    Bolt

    The bolt and link that came with my o6sworks 07afr is the newer 8mm. The problem is that the Specialized OEM bolt does not have a long enough shoulder, so you cannot order the correct bolt from Specialized, it is the same one that I have.

    I am not so sure the short shoulder length on the bolt matters that much. When bolted together the link pressures on the reducers wich pivot inside the bushing. The reducers become the axle, so the shorter shoulder doesnt really come into play.

    But if you must have a new bolt:

    Seems as if a M8 bolt 55mm log with a thread pitch of 1.25, cut to 42 mm is the perfect bolt. Titanium of course.

  21. #21
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    link rub

    After a few day of intensive mainrtenance, I have come to the conclusion that the hollowlink from the 06 stumpy is a royal piece of crap. It is so flexy..when you crank down on the lower shock pivot bolt the whole link flexs inwards and wants to rub on the frame.

    Looks like the BETD link is my only option here.

  22. #22
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    Must be a bad link. My 2006 doesn't have any problems with rubbing on the frame.

  23. #23
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    lptech,
    Here's the combo I posted on my 06 s-works w/ the afr.
    I replaced the lower eyelet bolt with an M8x55 titanium bolt from racebolts.com which has a 32mm shoulder. So I bought a 6mm spacer from aluminum-spacers.com with a 12.9mm outer diameter (same size as the bolt head) and then had my lbs press in a du bushing and proper reducers. So far no issues in about 9 months.

  24. #24
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    Ok quick question.

    Just how close is the Hollowlink supposed to make contact with the frame or the reducers on the lower shock eyelet? I'm assuming the pivots move around the bolts themselves, and that the frame/hollowlink should not be making contact - and that this should be the same for the reducers on the shock eyelet and the hollowlink?

    Or should be there some contact? Just wondering why it WOULDN'T creak if the hollowlink is supposed to make some contact with the reducers?

  25. #25
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    link

    Since the lower shock mount is not a bearing assembly, it is not the same as the frame pivots.

    The M8 link bolt sqeezes the link tight to the reducers so they move as one. The reducers rotate inside the teflon coated bushing. So there should be no movement between reducer and link. If there is play there when tightened the bolt is to narrow or the reducers are worn and there will be a creak. A little play is OK before tightend...I think.

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