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  1. #1
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    First bicycle on 25 years and in loving it.

    About 5 weeks ago picked up this 2013 stumpy. Previous owner upgraded brakes to the XT and 203 mm discs. The suspension was stock and front forks with 130 mm travel could use a service (no difference in rebound dampening from one adjustment extreme to the other). Also had riser type bars and funky flat grips. I was given a new stock bars before I even got home and went and got some grips.

    I found these 2015 Fox Factory 36 forks with 160 mm travel in excellent condition and swapped those in. They take the non boost and 120 boost axles. Also swapped out the clip in pedals until I get used to the limits of grip and my own abilities.

    In thoroughly enjoying this thing and can't get enough riding. I've got a long way to go to get my strength and stamina up, but it's been fun getting there.



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  2. #2
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    For sure the fox upgraded the bike not only mechanicaly but also visually!!! Keep on riding dude!!
    How much did you pay for the fox??

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  3. #3
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    Ps....change the stem its way to big for this bike. Put something 50to60

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by redo7 View Post
    For sure the fox upgraded the bike not only mechanicaly but also visually!!! Keep on riding dude!!
    How much did you pay for the fox??

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    Little over $400

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by redo7 View Post
    Ps....change the stem its way to big for this bike. Put something 50to60

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    Umm, huh? Stem?

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    Umm, huh? Stem?

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    The thing that the handlebar is clamped on to. Itís too long.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    The thing that the handlebar is clamped on to. Itís too long.


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    What should I gain from going with a shorter one? Would I even notice the difference?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    What should I gain from going with a shorter one? Would I even notice the difference?
    Better handling, it will be noticeable.


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  9. #9
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    Thanks (great, another expense I can't wait to try) :-)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Better handling, it will be noticeable.


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    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Better handling, it will be noticeable.


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    I ordered a much shorter no-rise stem for 1-1/8" steerer and proper clamp size for the handlebars. I went to put it on tonight when I got home, and this is what I found.

    First the stem did not fit on the same part the Specialized stem was on. there's an offset sort of part that is on the steerer and the stem clamps to that.

    If I remove the part, the new stem fits nicely on the steerer but the forks won't cynch tight in the head tube.

    Does that cap with the bolt in the middle of it supposed to tighten the forks up into the head tube? if so, I think I need a bit taller spacer because that offset part had a collar that sat on the spacers and now that it's not in there, the cap just tightens down on the steerer.

    Am I right in my thinking?

    First bicycle on 25 years and in loving it.-img_20181108_174135-large-.jpg

  11. #11
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    Looks like you need some more spacers. You can put them on top or bottom of the stem to adjust the height a bit.

    You don't want to overtighten the top bolt, just enough to take the play out of the headset. With your bars mounted, tighten a little and rock the handlebars with the brakes locked, if you feel any play or rocking, tighten until it disappears. You've gone too far if the headset binds. At least in theory, you can deform the bearing races or bearings by overtightening.

    In addition to a difference in steering, you will probably find the front wheel easier to get up, for better (manualing, unweighting) and worse (climbing). You may also be a bit more upright in your riding position.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    I ordered a much shorter no-rise stem for 1-1/8" steerer and proper clamp size for the handlebars. I went to put it on tonight when I got home, and this is what I found.

    First the stem did not fit on the same part the Specialized stem was on. there's an offset sort of part that is on the steerer and the stem clamps to that.

    If I remove the part, the new stem fits nicely on the steerer but the forks won't cynch tight in the head tube.

    Does that cap with the bolt in the middle of it supposed to tighten the forks up into the head tube? if so, I think I need a bit taller spacer because that offset part had a collar that sat on the spacers and now that it's not in there, the cap just tightens down on the steerer.

    Am I right in my thinking?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is that cap recessed into the stem? That stem is usually run with a shim that lets you make small changes in stem angle.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Is that cap recessed into the stem? That stem is usually run with a shim that lets you make small changes in stem angle.
    I guess that's the offset thing he was talking about. I was kinda wtf. And yeah that looks weird, but I am not familiar with that stem and it seems to have some idiosyncrasies.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwiceHorn View Post
    Looks like you need some more spacers. You can put them on top or bottom of the stem to adjust the height a bit.

    You don't want to overtighten the top bolt, just enough to take the play out of the headset. With your bars mounted, tighten a little and rock the handlebars with the brakes locked, if you feel any play or rocking, tighten until it disappears. You've gone too far if the headset binds. At least in theory, you can deform the bearing races or bearings by overtightening.

    In addition to a difference in steering, you will probably find the front wheel easier to get up, for better (manualing, unweighting) and worse (climbing). You may also be a bit more upright in your riding position.
    I think you left the rest out. That bolt on top is just for initially setting the tension. You need to tighten the bolts on the stem that clamp it to the steerer tube, they are what actually hold the stem on, not the top cap bolt.

    OP, That photo is your old stem?
    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Remember, there's always quilting and knitting if pedalling becomes too tough.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    I think you left the rest out. That bolt on top is just for initially setting the tension. You need to tighten the bolts on the stem that clamp it to the steerer tube, they are what actually hold the stem on, not the top cap bolt.

    OP, That photo is your old stem?
    Yeah good point. He just mentioned the top bolt, so that's all I mentioned, but the big picture is worth seeing.

  16. #16
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    Thanks all. Yes the Specialized stem is the one that was/is on the bike when I picked it up. This is what is under it:
    First bicycle on 25 years and in loving it.-s-l1600.jpg
    The clamp for the steerer is larger than the new one, so it fits over it. The collar at the bottom is like an added spacer.

    Thanks for the specs on the stem cap. Looking at the bolt in the tube, I figured that wasn't what held it all together but thought it did take up the slack as described. And yes it is sitting on top of the shim(?) which in turn is pushing down on the spacers and upper bearing race.

    So if I pick up some spacers, I should be able to use the other stem, right?

  17. #17
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    The "Multi Stem" should also come with its own larger cap that fits above the stem...since the shim..if not set at zero...will have the top of the stem at an angle and a normal cap would not sit flush with the stem. The hole on the Multi Stem cap is slotted and can sit flush with the top of the stem. I had an S-Works on my road bike. Pretty cool idea for making angle adjustments on a stem.

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    I guess it won't really matter since you got a different stem.

  18. #18
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    You want a small gap between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer tube, so that the top cap can push down on the stem when tightened as we talked about. Gap should just be a few millimeters, you want plenty of area on the steerer tube for the stem to clamp to.
    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Remember, there's always quilting and knitting if pedalling becomes too tough.

  19. #19
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    ^^^ this confirms my thoughts verbatim.

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