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Thread: 2021 Epic EVO?

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    How is the stock saddle that comes on the Evo. I havenít ridden the bike yet but I saw one at a shop. Nose seems short.


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    Saddles are hard to review since everyone has different preferences. I didnít care for the Power saddle and had the shop swap it for a Phenom. Iím not getting along all that well with the Phenom either. Could be a function of the Manic post not having enough adjustment to get the nose of the saddle down to my liking.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    How is the stock saddle that comes on the Evo. I havenít ridden the bike yet but I saw one at a shop. Nose seems short.


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    I've found the stock seat on my Evo Expert to be quite comfy. It's fairly light as well so I'll just use it

  3. #203
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    I love the saddle. Benn on it for 3 plus hours and no complaints. Tilted slightly up as well and very comfy.

  4. #204
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    The Power Comp saddle on the Epic Evo Comp and my butt seem to get along well. Honestly, I don't even know it's there.

  5. #205
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    Of all the Spesh saddles, my butt sits best on the Henge. But no issues with the Power, I run it on the Epic Evo and my Diverge, and have been fine for all-day rides. Have previously run the Phenom, but find that I get more hang-ups because of the longer tip.

    The power feels a bit short, so if you move around a bit on the saddle, others will provide more wiggling room, so I prefer the Henge on my Stumpy & fatbike.

  6. #206
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    I really like the power saddle. My only issue is 2 nagging herniated discs. For short rides for me, the power is amazing. I need a bit more flex and padding. I liked the Phenom that was on my 2020 Epic EVO. I just tried a Bridge Comp which felt good. Last night I tried a Henge Comp and that felt really good.

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  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by amadkins View Post
    Anybody else with the X Fusion Manic post having trouble getting the nose of the saddle down far enough?

    Iíve got the front rail fastener bottomed out and still canít get the nose of the saddle to my liking.
    Aaron, Mine seems to go down lower in the front than I need it too. I normally run my saddle level though.

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  8. #208
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    Duplicate post

  9. #209
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    Bike shop called yesterday. I guess some one who had ordered a frameset before me couldn't take it. It's not the oak green I had on order but I'm not being picky right now.

  10. #210
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    BB width?

    Hey all, just bought my Comp yesterday. It's being built up this weekend.

    Question for you all, I can't seem to find this information. I'm guessing the BB width is 68mm, can anyone confirm?

    I want to order the right parts.

    edit: Just found an article saying that the Epic (non-EVO) is 73mm, so now I'm guessing the EVO matches.

  11. #211
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    BSA 73mm, also. You can download the manual which lists all the technical details of the frame.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by trulede View Post
    BSA 73mm, also. You can download the manual which lists all the technical details of the frame.
    And there's the manual download, right on the page I'd been staring at

    Thank you.

  13. #213
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    Build progress so far. Waiting on the bb tool and front caliper spacers.
    Picked up an XO1 AXS build kit for the drivetrain.

  14. #214
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    That looks a whole lot better built. Def an eye catcher. looks like you're in the leaf belt like me. Hopefully I get another month to ride before the snow comes in to stay.

  15. #215
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    Yeah I'm in Ohio. trying to get out soon.

    Did Spec pull the evo off the suspension calculator?

  16. #216
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    Looks great!

  17. #217
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    I need a little help of a owner of the new Epic Evo

    The headtube has a space for 3 wires:

    -Rear derailleur
    -Rear brake
    -Seatpost

    If I want to add a rear shock with remote, do you think that is possible tune (Or remove) the frame rubber cap, that has 3 holes, to add the 4th wire

    (AXS is not an option)

    thanks

  18. #218
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    I could be wrong but It doesn't look like you can run a fourth cable... at least you wouldn't be able to do it with the plastic cable guide insert.

    One of the nice things about the new EVO imo is that the cables are routed so cleanly... but I'm not sure your needs will be met.

    I run the rear shock open on climbs and it works great with amazing pedaling efficiency.



    Quote Originally Posted by Jon_I View Post
    I need a little help of a owner of the new Epic Evo

    The headtube has a space for 3 wires:

    -Rear derailleur
    -Rear brake
    -Seatpost

    If I want to add a rear shock with remote, do you think that is possible tune (Or remove) the frame rubber cap, that has 3 holes, to add the 4th wire

    (AXS is not an option)

    thanks

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon_I View Post
    I need a little help of a owner of the new Epic Evo

    The headtube has a space for 3 wires:

    -Rear derailleur
    -Rear brake
    -Seatpost

    If I want to add a rear shock with remote, do you think that is possible tune (Or remove) the frame rubber cap, that has 3 holes, to add the 4th wire

    (AXS is not an option)

    thanks
    Have a look in the manual. You can run 4 cables without using any of the cable-guide inserts.
    There is also o hole in the top tube close to the shock for a remote wire.

  20. #220
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    Thanks but I (Still) don't own one of this machines

    I am getting info to decide between 2 or 3 models

    Thanks

    Edit (I have found it):


  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplydown View Post
    I knew from this thread that the controls would hit the top tube in stock form if bars were turned far enough. Here's a closer look.



    On my setup the shifters have about 5mm of overlap with the top tube. Brake levers have about 10mm of overlap. The stock bars have 10mm rise. So ideally you'd want bars with at least 25mm of rise to make sure the top tube doesn't get smashed by your bars in a crash. Something to consider if you are in between sizes. I'm 5'10 and could have gone with a M or L. But I went M because I knew I'd be swapping in riser bars which might be a bit too much height on a L for me. My plan is to swap in SQLab 30X 12 degree bars with 45mm rise (actual 35mm rise) which should be plenty. May not look super racy, but probably looks better than a crack in the top tube




    I never noticed this detail till I saw the bike in person. All cables are run through one port on the left side of the bike, even for the dropper post. A little unusual, probably for weight savings?




    In addition to the pad on top of the chainstay, Specialized included some protective tape on the sides as well.




    Protective tape is also included from high up on the downtube to past the bottom bracket.
    The part about the controls hitting the top tube is a super bummer. I initially put some 3M tape to protect that area, but it wasn't thick enough so I wound up throwing some hideous carbon leather in that spot. I was just on the side of the trail and my bars turned just enough causing my controls to smash into my frame.

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyIvan View Post
    Yeah I'm in Ohio. trying to get out soon.

    Did Spec pull the evo off the suspension calculator?
    I was just looking for it on the suspension calculator last night. Nothing available. Bummer, as I really wanted some rebound info for the rear shock

  23. #223
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    Here's mine. It looks like an S-works, and it is and isn't...I didn't buy it complete.

    I swapped the drivetrain, power meter, and brakes (MT8) from the bike this is replacing. Found the seatpost, saddle, stem, and handlebar as new/used takeoff from a local seller. Bought the frame, fork, and wheels. Flat pedals are temporary.

    Size L. 21.3 pounds as shown. More with a dropper!

    I spent the better part of the weekend putting a full RideWrap kit on it. The chainstay protector had to be removed for the wrap. So I'm waiting on a replacement as the original is no longer sticky! This is the second bike I've wrapped. Definitely easier the second time around, but oh man, still such a pain.


  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    The part about the controls hitting the top tube is a super bummer. I initially put some 3M tape to protect that area, but it wasn't thick enough so I wound up throwing some hideous carbon leather in that spot. I was just on the side of the trail and my bars turned just enough causing my controls to smash into my frame.

    Yeah, that's a bummer. I just got my SQlab bars in and they look like they have more than enough rise for everything to clear the top tube. I'll post a pic once I get it installed.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    I spent the better part of the weekend putting a full RideWrap kit on it. The chainstay protector had to be removed for the wrap. So I'm waiting on a replacement as the original is no longer sticky! This is the second bike I've wrapped. Definitely easier the second time around, but oh man, still such a pain.
    Nice. 21.3lbs is dreamy! I'm currently waiting on a Ridewrap kit right now. Couple of questions for ya.

    1. Did you remove all the original factory protection film to install the kit? Or did you just leave everything on (except the chainstay protector) and put the Ridewrap kit over the factory stuff?

    2. Where did you order a replacement chainstay protector? Do you have a part number for it?

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplydown View Post
    Nice. 21.3lbs is dreamy! I'm currently waiting on a Ridewrap kit right now. Couple of questions for ya.

    1. Did you remove all the original factory protection film to install the kit? Or did you just leave everything on (except the chainstay protector) and put the Ridewrap kit over the factory stuff?

    2. Where did you order a replacement chainstay protector? Do you have a part number for it?
    Q1: Yes! I called RideWrap, and they recommended taking off all the factory protection. I used a hair dryer to heat it up. Came off pretty easily.

    Q2: Internet search was a dead end for the factory CS protector. So, I ordered the replacement from a local shop. It's a service part, apparently not easily available unless a shop secures one for you. I don't have a part number, unfortunately. If you can't find one, it's probably easy enough to clean off the old adhesive and use some double-sided tape.

  27. #227
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    The published geometry seems like its for the flip chip in the default "low-n-slack" setting. Though they state the change in BB height and HTA, they dont give the change in wheelbase. Anyone have an idea how much it changes? 5-10mm shorter perhaps?

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    Q1: Yes! I called RideWrap, and they recommended taking off all the factory protection. I used a hair dryer to heat it up. Came off pretty easily.

    Q2: Internet search was a dead end for the factory CS protector. So, I ordered the replacement from a local shop. It's a service part, apparently not easily available unless a shop secures one for you. I don't have a part number, unfortunately. If you can't find one, it's probably easy enough to clean off the old adhesive and use some double-sided tape.

    Alright, good to know. Thanks. Looks like I'll be peeling off the factory protection today. I'll talk to my local shop and see if they can order me another factory CS protector.

  29. #229
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    Used Comps are listed for $5000 on ebay, and more than msrp on PB.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    Used Comps are listed for $5000 on ebay, and more than msrp on PB.
    I just noticed they raised the price of the frame too. Now $3600. It makes no sense to me that the Epic EVO is $3600 while the new Stumpjumper, non-EVO, is $2800.
    Last edited by G-Choro; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:49 AM.

  31. #231
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    man, that frame looks so good. much better than on spesh website.

  32. #232
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    ordered an epic evo comp today. don't need it right now but it would be nice to have it by april.

  33. #233
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    FYI. Our shop has a medium enlarged comp in carbon and green. If someone really wants one and doesn't want to wait they might be able to work something out with my boss.

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  34. #234
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    If you do figure out about the CS protector, please let us know! I'd love to have a spare for backup.

  35. #235
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    The USD lost some value in the past 3 months, so it's possible that is the reason from the price increase.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    FYI. Our shop has a medium enlarged comp in carbon and green. If someone really wants one and doesn't want to wait they might be able to work something out with my boss.

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    Ok, how about large vs enlarged?

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  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    Ok, how about large vs enlarged?

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    engorged. oh no.

  38. #238
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    Well I stopped by the LBS today and ordered a replacement CS protector. I hope the shop guy ordered the right part because he said it's only like $6? Anyhow, will know in a week or so when it comes in

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    FYI. Our shop has a medium enlarged comp in carbon and green. If someone really wants one and doesn't want to wait they might be able to work something out with my boss.

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    Wouldn't "working something out with your boss" in this case just be...showing up buying the bike?

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by red92s View Post
    Wouldn't "working something out with your boss" in this case just be...showing up buying the bike?
    Sure! I'm most cases. My LBS has gone above and beyond to help customers.

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  41. #241
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    Keep us posted on if it's the correct part, because I'd love to order one and have one as a backup.

  42. #242
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    the world moves fast sometimes. local guy I know had one and wanted to unload it. canceled my order at the shop and should be picking it up this weekend at some point I hope.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumb View Post
    the world moves fast sometimes. local guy I know had one and wanted to unload it. canceled my order at the shop and should be picking it up this weekend at some point I hope.
    ďLife Moves Pretty Fast. If You Donít Stop And Look Around Once In A While, You Could Miss It.Ē
    óFerris Bueller
    2021 Epic Evo Strava Warrior

  44. #244
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    That movie's a classic!

  45. #245
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    I recently had a chance for a short demo ride on an XL S-Works Epic Evo. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to fine tune the suspension settings, but they felt ok, pretty close to right - perhaps the rear shock pressure was a little too high.

    The bike is amazingly light for how much travel it has. I was mainly interested in it as a potential XC race bike (I don't want a regular Epic as I do not like inertia valve lockout suspension), and unfortunately, at least for me, it did not impress me for this purpose. The bike did not feel especially responsive to me under hard power efforts - seems to me this suspension design relies on the brain for an ultra-efficient pedaling feel. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't horrible, but worse than I would want for racing - probably fine for someone just looking for a very light and pretty efficient all around short-travel trail bike. Also, I was very unimpressed with the stock Ground Control front tire - it feels like it rolls way slower than the Fast Trak, but then didn't really seem to corner any better (I am currently running a 2.3 Fast Trak on the front of my hardtail), but that could obviously be easily swapped for either something faster or something with better traction, depending on your goals.

    The weight of this bike felt great, but I would also personally not choose it as my short-travel trail bike just because it didn't feel quite as fun or quite as confident as my Tallboy 3 (which has the same 120/110 travel. I have a Fox 34SC fork on it and a light build, but that bike is still much heavier than the S-Works Epic Evo I demoed, because that frame, while still significantly lighter than the Tallboy 4, is much heavier than the Epic Evo S-Works frame). So, I loved the weight of the Epic Evo, but in comparison, to me it felt more skittish and more like a race bike than a trail bike (though as I already said, it doesn't pedal like a race bike).

    So, while I can't see a reason I would want to own this bike, I could still see it as a great choice for someone who wants the lightest weight possible for a bike with its capabilities. Perhaps I just didn't have time to discover where this bike really shines.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkJ70 View Post
    I recently had a chance for a short demo ride on an XL S-Works Epic Evo. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to fine tune the suspension settings, but they felt ok, pretty close to right - perhaps the rear shock pressure was a little too high.

    The bike is amazingly light for how much travel it has. I was mainly interested in it as a potential XC race bike (I don't want a regular Epic as I do not like inertia valve lockout suspension), and unfortunately, at least for me, it did not impress me for this purpose. The bike did not feel especially responsive to me under hard power efforts - seems to me this suspension design relies on the brain for an ultra-efficient pedaling feel. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't horrible, but worse than I would want for racing - probably fine for someone just looking for a very light and pretty efficient all around short-travel trail bike. Also, I was very unimpressed with the stock Ground Control front tire - it feels like it rolls way slower than the Fast Trak, but then didn't really seem to corner any better (I am currently running a 2.3 Fast Trak on the front of my hardtail), but that could obviously be easily swapped for either something faster or something with better traction, depending on your goals.

    The weight of this bike felt great, but I would also personally not choose it as my short-travel trail bike just because it didn't feel quite as fun or quite as confident as my Tallboy 3 (which has the same 120/110 travel. I have a Fox 34SC fork on it and a light build, but that bike is still much heavier than the S-Works Epic Evo I demoed, because that frame, while still significantly lighter than the Tallboy 4, is much heavier than the Epic Evo S-Works frame). So, I loved the weight of the Epic Evo, but in comparison, to me it felt more skittish and more like a race bike than a trail bike (though as I already said, it doesn't pedal like a race bike).

    So, while I can't see a reason I would want to own this bike, I could still see it as a great choice for someone who wants the lightest weight possible for a bike with its capabilities. Perhaps I just didn't have time to discover where this bike really shines.
    Interesting take. Oddly enough, I got a KOM on a sprint segment that has over 5,000 Riders. I am typically not a KOM contender. I took the time to dial in the suspension for my weight and pedaling style. Although my previous Epic with the brain certainly felt faster when sprinting I really don't see much difference with the new bike. The EVO does seem a bit more active of course but it really has not hindered my speed as I perceive it. As a side note, I know most people don't like to use them but the lockout on the shock is very firm. And although I didn't think it really did feel as fast on the first few rides as my old epic with the brain, after getting more rides on it I may have become more accustomed to it but it really feels great.

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  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkJ70 View Post
    The bike did not feel especially responsive to me under hard power efforts
    I understand this. I'm coming from a Maestro bike with a dual lockout. If available, I'd get the EVO with a lockout for out-of-the-saddle climbing and sprints. Something I'll consider as an upgrade down the road if after some decent miles I still find myself wanting that lockout lever.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    I understand this. I'm coming from a Maestro bike with a dual lockout. If available, I'd get the EVO with a lockout for out-of-the-saddle climbing and sprints. Something I'll consider as an upgrade down the road if after some decent miles I still find myself wanting that lockout lever.
    I had thought about the lockout too; however, after messing around with locking out the fork/shock independently of one another, my preference for sprinting on the Evo is to have the shock open and the fork locked out. For that reason, I'm glad it doesn't have the dual lockout, which would remove the ability to lockout the fork and shock independently. If I knew I was going to be on a smooth fire road/gravel road, dual lockout would be preferred. Having the rear open to track over small bumps/roots feels better. The shock lockout on the Evo is quite firm.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    Interesting take. Oddly enough, I got a KOM on a sprint segment that has over 5,000 Riders. I am typically not a KOM contender. I took the time to dial in the suspension for my weight and pedaling style.
    What sag % and # of rebound clicks did you settle on in the rear? Also, what PSI and, if you don't mind sharing, what is your weight?

    I'm finding that at 175lbs I need higher PSI than Specialized recommends for 27.5% (11mm) of sag.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    What sag % and # of rebound clicks did you settle on in the rear? Also, what PSI and, if you don't mind sharing, what is your weight?

    I'm finding that at 175lbs I need higher PSI than Specialized recommends for 27.5% (11mm) of sag.
    Does Spec indicate whether to measure sag in seated or standing/attack position? Some manufacturers don't say and it can skew the measurement if the weight is too biased to the rear. I think standing is the primary way but some bikes (hardtails for example) have only a sticker on the fork and call it a day--no guide in the manual or anything.

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonF1 View Post
    Does Spec indicate whether to measure sag in seated or standing/attack position? Some manufacturers don't say and it can skew the measurement if the weight is too biased to the rear. I think standing is the primary way but some bikes (hardtails for example) have only a sticker on the fork and call it a day--no guide in the manual or anything.
    Good question. Just checked the manual, and S recommends setting sag in a seated, normal riding position.

  52. #252
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    Just for anybody who's curious, the wheels on the epic evo comp weigh in at 2009g. 1140 for the rear and 869 for the front including tape and valve stems on each.

  53. #253
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    I've got the comp with the Sid Select fork and notice the fork tends to stick just a bit when pressing down on the handlebars. This isn't noticeable when riding and when pushing down really hard really fast, but when I put a slow pressure on the handlebars I notice it sticks. I never noticed this with my Fox fork. I am wondering if this will wear away as it breaks in, if it shouldn't be doing this, or if I shouldn't be concerned. It doesn't stick when it returns, just when I'm pushing down compressing the fork. I may not be doing a good job of describing the issue either. Anyone else know what I'm talking about?

  54. #254
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    That's stiction (static friction). Pretty normal on all forks usually, to varying degrees. believe it or not, this helps: Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Stanchion Fluoro Oil

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattyb83 View Post
    Just for anybody who's curious, the wheels on the epic evo comp weigh in at 2009g. 1140 for the rear and 869 for the front including tape and valve stems on each.
    Thanks! I am looking at Hunt Race XC wide wheels to shave some weight and looking to swap the stock shock to the Ohlins TTX1 that was just announced.

    Nothing wrong with the stock fork and shock, surprisingly nice ride and tune in fact, given the limited adjustments. I just like to mess around with settings and the Ohlins seem to be a good compromise in weight and adjustability.

    I just cannot find clear info if this frame is linear or progressive. Cos that will be the deal breaker if I have to go for Ohlins TTX2 cos that larger can is way heavier.

    Anyone has this info? Thanks in advance.


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  56. #256
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    I just picked up a large Epic Evo Expert today. The dark blue looks really good in person. I'm 5'10" and was just barely able to get the post inserted far enough for seated pedaling. I thought I might have to order a OneUp post to keep 150mm drop but it worked out with the stock post.

    I knew I'd be changing the bars and saddle right away. I'm waiting on a WTB Volt Carbon saddle and OneUp 20mm rise handlebar. I already have a RaceFace 40mm Turbine R stem to swap when the handlebar arrives.

    The brakes and tires are on trial. I'm using Maxxis Assegai/DHR II on my Enduro and the Ground Control/Fast Trak combo on the Epic look like road tires by comparison but i'll give them a try before deciding I need something beefier. For brakes, I really love the Magura MT-7s on my Enduro and they're fairly light but i'll give the SRAM GS RS set a try for a month or two.
    The glass is twice as large as it needs to be

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heiril View Post
    Thanks! I am looking at Hunt Race XC wide wheels to shave some weight
    Was considering those wheels as well! Let me know what you think if you end up getting them. Looking like a December(ish) ship date now.

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdSawyer View Post
    That's stiction (static friction). Pretty normal on all forks usually, to varying degrees. believe it or not, this helps: Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Stanchion Fluoro Oil
    Good to know. I never experienced it with my previous Fox fork so that's why I was wondering. I did try some Pedros Bike Lust and while it helped just a bit, it's still happening. May give your recommendation a go.

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy f View Post
    The brakes and tires are on trial. I'm using Maxxis Assegai/DHR II on my Enduro and the Ground Control/Fast Trak combo on the Epic look like road tires by comparison but i'll give them a try before deciding I need something beefier.
    I tore the sidewall on the fast trak on my 3rd ride on flat dirt; it's paper-thin. I went and picked up a fast trak with Grid casing because I did want to actually get some use out of the Fast Trak before switching back to Maxxis tires. The ground control I've really enjoyed so far, but will likely swap to a Maxxis once I've wore through.

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    I tore the sidewall on the fast trak on my 3rd ride on flat dirt; it's paper-thin. I went and picked up a fast trak with Grid casing because I did want to actually get some use out of the Fast Trak before switching back to Maxxis tires. The ground control I've really enjoyed so far, but will likely swap to a Maxxis once I've wore through.
    I was thinking Maxxis Rekon 2.4WT with EXO casing and MaxxTerra rubber compound if I can't get along with the stock tires.
    The glass is twice as large as it needs to be

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy f View Post
    I just picked up a large Epic Evo Expert today. The dark blue looks really good in person. I'm 5'10" and was just barely able to get the post inserted far enough for seated pedaling. I thought I might have to order a OneUp post to keep 150mm drop but it worked out with the stock post.
    Can you share your cycling inseam and saddle height? Thx

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbornia View Post
    Can you share your cycling inseam and saddle height? Thx
    I don't know my cycling inseam but my BB to saddle height is 28". I have the stock X-Fusion Manic post inserted just about as far as it will go and it's at my normal seated pedaling height.
    The glass is twice as large as it needs to be

  63. #263
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    Hello everybody! New here but here's mine:
    At 21.7 right now with a power meter and crappy tires. Full thread here

    Here's a dated photo with a messed up b-tension and some beater wheels.
    2021 Epic EVO?-50279388938_2052e035e6_k.jpg

    And here's the weight spreadsheet:

    2021 Epic EVO?-xdhqwrf.png

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    Was considering those wheels as well! Let me know what you think if you end up getting them. Looking like a December(ish) ship date now.
    Yup, December ship date. Have not ordered though. The stock wheels are still not destroyed yet even after ploughing them through the same lines I did with my Enduro. Trying my best to destroy them while not killing myself with the scary stock front tyre. Decent in the dry, yet so slippery, unpredictable on wet rock gardens.

    I feel the front tire is the limiting factor for now. Changed to Maxxis DHR2 (2.3), not tested yet. Rear still on stock cos I wanted the good roll and it has not given me any scares yet or much wheel spin.

    I think this bike can be made slightly like a plow bike rather than a line picker by swapping the front tire. Will report I get some rides next week.


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  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy f View Post
    I just picked up a large Epic Evo Expert today. The dark blue looks really good in person. I'm 5'10" and was just barely able to get the post inserted far enough for seated pedaling. I thought I might have to order a OneUp post to keep 150mm drop but it worked out with the stock post.

    I knew I'd be changing the bars and saddle right away. I'm waiting on a WTB Volt Carbon saddle and OneUp 20mm rise handlebar. I already have a RaceFace 40mm Turbine R stem to swap when the handlebar arrives.

    The brakes and tires are on trial. I'm using Maxxis Assegai/DHR II on my Enduro and the Ground Control/Fast Trak combo on the Epic look like road tires by comparison but i'll give them a try before deciding I need something beefier. For brakes, I really love the Magura MT-7s on my Enduro and they're fairly light but i'll give the SRAM GS RS set a try for a month or two.
    Exactly my thoughts when I first got the bike. On the same combo for my Enduro too.

    Try the stock first. They are surprisingly decent in dry conditions or if you donít have much wet rocks and roots.

    But you gotta behave on this bike. Gotta pick your lines. Donít go all hooligan mode. Ainít a Triumph Speed Triple or DH bike.


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  66. #266
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    Does anyone have the base model Evo? Iím wondering what the weight of the bike is and how does the fork feel?

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattyb83 View Post
    Just for anybody who's curious, the wheels on the epic evo comp weigh in at 2009g. 1140 for the rear and 869 for the front including tape and valve stems on each.
    Was curious about this, as I couldnít find any info on them. Not terrible for OEM wheels, but its an easy upgrade.


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  68. #268
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    Well I got my replacement CS protector from the LBS today. Only took 6 days which ain't too shabby at all! Part number for future reference is S206900004. $9.99 + tax


    The label says Epic and not Epic Evo. Part number was hidden behind another label.



    Double sided 3M tape on back, ready to be applied.



    Checked against my original CS protector and it's a perfect match. I'm happy. Now it's time to get started installing my Ridewrap kit
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2021 Epic EVO?-cs-protector-label-1.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-cs-protector-back.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-cs-protector-stack.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-cs-protector-label-2.jpg  


  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattyb83 View Post
    Just for anybody who's curious, the wheels on the epic evo comp weigh in at 2009g. 1140 for the rear and 869 for the front including tape and valve stems on each.
    good to know. this hub will save almost 200gm.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-FH-MT901-B-Rear-Hub

  70. #270
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    Medium here

    Quote Originally Posted by dischucker View Post
    Does anyone have the base model Evo? Iím wondering what the weight of the bike is and how does the fork feel?
    Maybe RollingRob will have some input on his also.

    I didn't weigh mine in stock setup, but I did switch the stock wheelset/tires/Deore cassette out and put my alloy e13 TRS+ Race wheels(27 mm internals), Maxxis Rekon 2.4wt fr/rr, the cranks to e13 TRS+ Race Trail carbon, XO1 cassette and an XX1 chain. It sits @~26.5 #'s. I am going back in to the lbs this week for a proper suspension setup and minor tuning and will have them weigh one of the other med's while I'm there.

    As for the Reba, it seems to be fine. I'm ~140#'s so it's not going thru too much abuse. I have been spoiled with a FOX 34 140 Performance Elite on my other bike that I'm selling so I do plan on getting something similar with either a 120 Stepcast 34 or the new SID 35.

  71. #271
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    Just picked up a expert in blue,has anyone removed the roval control decal off the wheels?
    I'm wondering if the roval is printed into the wheel like my wife's expert in the redwood color, it has no wheel decals

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  72. #272
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    it looks like the old schoolish threaded shimano bb's that have been around forever will work on this bike right? as long as my spindle on my crank is 24mm.

  73. #273
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    here is my new whip. obviously needs some cranks and a front brake disc. should have it in running order to ride this weekend i hope. this is replacing my asrc that broke which yeti gave me a sb100 for a warranty replacement which immediately didnt like very much so i sold that frame. had a 2016 epic that i loved and road with the brain all the way open most of the time so this bike should suit me well.

    2021 Epic EVO?-189358e9-54cc-43da-b45c-b924477b96d3.jpeg

  74. #274
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    Pros/Cons - Epic Evo Comp

    Pros: Love everything about the bike. Perfect XC+ MTB. SLX is solid. Climbs like crazy. More comfortable on downhill.

    Cons: Behind the bottom bracket is a shelf that collects a lot of crap. Slight pedal-bob, but can live with.
    2015 Specialized Crave SL Singlespeed
    2016 Yeti SB4.5c
    2021 Specialized Epic HT
    2021 Specialized Epic Evo Comp

  75. #275
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    I've been eyeing up the epic evo the last few weeks but hard to buy without seeing/riding one.

    But for some reason in the UK they have just upped the price. Evo comp was £4000 and now is £4500? Even the base model has gone from £3500 to £3800 same with the expert that's also gone up. Seems quite a big hike probably would have been the comp id have gone for. Have they raised the price everywhere or just the UK?

  76. #276
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    There was a news article stating a 15% hike due to supply chain issues. Specialized areas named.


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  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    I've been eyeing up the epic evo the last few weeks but hard to buy without seeing/riding one.

    But for some reason in the UK they have just upped the price. Evo comp was £4000 and now is £4500? Even the base model has gone from £3500 to £3800 same with the expert that's also gone up. Seems quite a big hike probably would have been the comp id have gone for. Have they raised the price everywhere or just the UK?
    https://road.cc/content/news/special...-prices-278405

    US has already seen price increases.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    I've been eyeing up the epic evo the last few weeks but hard to buy without seeing/riding one.

    But for some reason in the UK they have just upped the price. Evo comp was £4000 and now is £4500? Even the base model has gone from £3500 to £3800 same with the expert that's also gone up. Seems quite a big hike probably would have been the comp id have gone for. Have they raised the price everywhere or just the UK?
    They increased at least the base and comp prices in the US a few weeks back with the base getting a larger increase. I canít recall if the other models got an increase. I donít think the SW did. My LBS honored the originally price, though it may have been less than $100.
    Last edited by djr21589; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:08 AM. Reason: Wrong word used.

  79. #279
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    The SID select on the Expert - I saw some people reporting issues with this. Seems mine has developed a rattle/slack. Got the bike in June, it's done about 1000km.

    Doesn't feel too bad on the trail, and it still works as it's supposed to, but if I just lift and drop the front there is a very audible rattle. Likewise, holding front the brake and rocking the bike, there is noise, and definitely something not right with the fork. Same rattle if I push it down while rocking the bike.
    Like a dead headset, except the movement is in the fork.

    I don't know the insides of the new SID, but from servicing my Yari previously, I can't see if this type of issue can be fixed by a standard service, more like something related to bushings?

    A bit scared to take it to my (excellent) LBS - with the current situation, a warranty issue or even a fix could take months with poor parts availability.

    Anyone have any updates on this?

  80. #280
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    Thanks for the links to the price increase. Seems to have pushed the epic comp nearer to some boutique brand prices. Revel ranger, transition spur etc. For me i looked at Specialized due to the value for money. So now this makes my search harder. I'm sure they are great bikes and the new line up looks great (epic and stumpjumper). But it has got me thinking about riding something more unique all be it for slightly more money!

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    But for some reason in the UK they have just upped the price. Evo comp was £4000 and now is £4500?
    Now also in Germany. Around 10%, which is partly funny because there is next to nothing in stock anyway!

    There are better options for the money ... IMO ... but since there is next to nothing in stock anyway ... it doesn't really matter.


  82. #282
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    Sid Select Fork Travel

    I hadn't adjusted the fork air pressure since I picked the bike up from the shop a few weeks back. I wanted to get a decent amount of time on the bike before making any adjustments. I didn't have any complaints about how the fork felt, but did notice that I would never use close to 'max travel'. I was hitting some pretty rough stuff too. I finally decided to drop the pressure a bit and see if I could get closer to max travel. When I installed my shock pump, the gauge read 62 PSI, I dropped it to 55.5 PSI before removal. I weigh about 175lbs kitted up and the TrailHead app suggests I run 83 PSI! I went riding with the lower pressure and while I used more travel than previously, still didn't max it out. I suppose my question is, should there be such a large variance from what RS recommends for pressure and what I actually run? ~30 PSI difference is huge! I'm not riding flat stuff either, all front range rocky mountain stuff.

  83. #283
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    Interesting price increases in Europe...a S-Works epic is now 5,700 euros, Evo 4,500.

    These prices make the Unno horn look like an actually competitive option, it has progressive geo, arguably a better suspension design (for some) and handmade in the Eurozone for 5,000.

    If you can buy in the USA price difference isn't as competitive.

  84. #284
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    I have the same problem!
    Fork feels good but I canít reach full travel, very frustrating!

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfishdesign View Post
    Interesting price increases in Europe...a S-Works epic is now 5,700 euros, Evo 4,500.

    These prices make the Unno horn look like an actually competitive option, it has progressive geo, arguably a better suspension design (for some) and handmade in the Eurozone for 5,000.

    If you can buy in the USA price difference isn't as competitive.
    The Epic S-Works Framekit is with Fork...

  86. #286
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    and a seatpost i belive.

  87. #287
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by Simplydown View Post
    I knew from this thread that the controls would hit the top tube in stock form if bars were turned far enough. Here's a closer look.



    On my setup the shifters have about 5mm of overlap with the top tube. Brake levers have about 10mm of overlap. The stock bars have 10mm rise. So ideally you'd want bars with at least 25mm of rise to make sure the top tube doesn't get smashed by your bars in a crash. Something to consider if you are in between sizes. I'm 5'10 and could have gone with a M or L. But I went M because I knew I'd be swapping in riser bars which might be a bit too much height on a L for me. My plan is to swap in SQLab 30X 12 degree bars with 45mm rise (actual 35mm rise) which should be plenty. May not look super racy, but probably looks better than a crack in the top tube




    I never noticed this detail till I saw the bike in person. All cables are run through one port on the left side of the bike, even for the dropper post. A little unusual, probably for weight savings?




    In addition to the pad on top of the chainstay, Specialized included some protective tape on the sides as well.




    Protective tape is also included from high up on the downtube to past the bottom bracket.
    How did you end with your Setup? How is the riding exp. with the raiserbars on?
    I went allso with the Medium and also 5,10" and thought to go for the same setup with the raiserbars for the controlers freespace over the toptube. for keeping the reach you can drop the stem to the lowest (givs 1,5 cm + reach) and thinking of a 30 mm riserbar om it.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplydown View Post
    I knew from this thread that the controls would hit the top tube in stock form if bars were turned far enough. Here's a closer look.



    On my setup the shifters have about 5mm of overlap with the top tube. Brake levers have about 10mm of overlap. The stock bars have 10mm rise. So ideally you'd want bars with at least 25mm of rise to make sure the top tube doesn't get smashed by your bars in a crash. Something to consider if you are in between sizes. I'm 5'10 and could have gone with a M or L. But I went M because I knew I'd be swapping in riser bars which might be a bit too much height on a L for me. My plan is to swap in SQLab 30X 12 degree bars with 45mm rise (actual 35mm rise) which should be plenty. May not look super racy, but probably looks better than a crack in the top tube




    I never noticed this detail till I saw the bike in person. All cables are run through one port on the left side of the bike, even for the dropper post. A little unusual, probably for weight savings?




    In addition to the pad on top of the chainstay, Specialized included some protective tape on the sides as well.




    Protective tape is also included from high up on the downtube to past the bottom bracket.
    Any luck with the setup, and avoiding the controllers banging the top tube? I have the same thoughts of setup on a medium, as Iím also 5,10Ē and wanted to know of youíve tried it out.
    Also you can gain 1,5 cm om extra reach if you drop the stem to the lowest possession on the head tube and use a riser bar for the higher Stack.

  89. #289
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    Flip Chip

    Anyone mess with the flip chip yet? I asked my LBS to set it up in the high position, but after taking a BB height measurement, I think it's still in the low position. There's a video of a guy flipping the chip on a stumpy and I'm thinking the process is similar for the Evo? Maybe a step or two less for the Evo.

    If you have flipped it one way or the other, do you notice a difference? I'm waiting on torque wrenches before I play with this, but I'm excited to check it out, especially if it is still in the low position.

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    Anyone mess with the flip chip yet? I asked my LBS to set it up in the high position, but after taking a BB height measurement, I think it's still in the low position. There's a video of a guy flipping the chip on a stumpy and I'm thinking the process is similar for the Evo? Maybe a step or two less for the Evo.

    If you have flipped it one way or the other, do you notice a difference? I'm waiting on torque wrenches before I play with this, but I'm excited to check it out, especially if it is still in the low position.
    I flipped it when I got my bike home. It really isn't that difficult. Take the top bolt out of the shock, remove the one that goes through the flip chip and then slide the shock out and flip the chip and reverse.

    sometimes you have to worry about the rear swingarm and wheel dropping away but on the epic with the rubber booty thing jammed in near the bottom bracket it didn't move at all. You will have to pull the rear triangle away a bit to have enough room to get it out.

    I never road it the other way so can't tell a difference.

    I wonder if any aftermarket companies have tried to make flip chips that mess with the geo a bit more. maybe making it slacken to 66 even or up to 67.5.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumb View Post
    I flipped it when I got my bike home. It really isn't that difficult. Take the top bolt out of the shock, remove the one that goes through the flip chip and then slide the shock out and flip the chip and reverse.

    sometimes you have to worry about the rear swingarm and wheel dropping away but on the epic with the rubber booty thing jammed in near the bottom bracket it didn't move at all. You will have to pull the rear triangle away a bit to have enough room to get it out.

    I never road it the other way so can't tell a difference.

    I wonder if any aftermarket companies have tried to make flip chips that mess with the geo a bit more. maybe making it slacken to 66 even or up to 67.5.
    Cool, thanks. Just did it and it turns out it was in the high position. So that means you can't trust a measurement of the BB to floor, or, at least can't trust me...

    I was also wondering about the aftermarket flip chips. Seems like it'd be easy enough to do, would it really mess up the bike that much? Maybe...maybe not.

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    So that means you can't trust a measurement of the BB to floor, or, at least can't trust me...
    I've wondered how that is generally done. I assume from the center of the BB to the ground -- but isn't that dependent on what tire you use?

    I'm looking to swap my chip to the high position -- it's too prone to pedal striking. My long travel 29er has a 5mm higher BB (and shorter cranks) so I'm really noticing it.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by vor_lord View Post
    I've wondered how that is generally done. I assume from the center of the BB to the ground -- but isn't that dependent on what tire you use?.

    That's how I did it. I assumed with the stock setup, it should be similar. Must be too many variables at play.

  94. #294
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    Not sure why they put 175 cranks on a large 170 would make more sense

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  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by vor_lord View Post
    I've wondered how that is generally done. I assume from the center of the BB to the ground -- but isn't that dependent on what tire you use?

    I'm looking to swap my chip to the high position -- it's too prone to pedal striking. My long travel 29er has a 5mm higher BB (and shorter cranks) so I'm really noticing it.
    It is the difference between BB Height and BB Drop. Height is measured from the ground and is tire dependent. Drop is measured from the line between the axles and is not affected by tire height.

  96. #296
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    EPIC/EVO Spare Parts

    This is a link to a list of spare parts available for the '21 Epic and Epic Evo and other models. I was trying to get a replacement shock extension and Specialized is out of the aluminum and S-Works carbon extension.

    https://support.specialized.com/home...lacement-parts

  97. #297
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    Keeping on this topic,

    Quote Originally Posted by shred79 View Post
    Not sure why they put 175 cranks on a large 170 would make more sense

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    I'm 5'-6" on a medium with 165 cranks. Usually on small framed and feels like I'm riding a bit "on top of" the bike instead of "in" now that I'm on a medium and wonder if the shorter cranks and raising my seat up to get proper leg extension from where it was when running the170's and that's giving me the feeling of higher center of gravity.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    I'm 5'-6" on a medium with 165 cranks. Usually on small framed and feels like I'm riding a bit "on top of" the bike instead of "in"
    I feel like I'm more on top of the bike than my other bike also, and I'm always riding mediums. I figured it was part of the bike design.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Lake View Post
    How did you end with your Setup? How is the riding exp. with the raiserbars on?
    I went allso with the Medium and also 5,10" and thought to go for the same setup with the raiserbars for the controlers freespace over the toptube. for keeping the reach you can drop the stem to the lowest (givs 1,5 cm + reach) and thinking of a 30 mm riserbar om it.

    I swapped in the 45mm riser bars along with 170mm cranks. The controls clear the top tube now and my riding position feels pretty much identical to my previous size M Giant Trance 29. So overall I'm really happy with the change as I was always comfortable on the Giant. I have to point out that although my bars were advertised as 45mm rise, they are nowhere close to that. From my rough measurements I'd say they're about 32mm actual rise. I'll be home this weekend so I'll snap some pics so you can see the clearance with the new bars.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplydown View Post
    I swapped in the 45mm riser bars along with 170mm cranks. The controls clear the top tube now and my riding position feels pretty much identical to my previous size M Giant Trance 29. So overall I'm really happy with the change as I was always comfortable on the Giant. I have to point out that although my bars were advertised as 45mm rise, they are nowhere close to that. From my rough measurements I'd say they're about 32mm actual rise. I'll be home this weekend so I'll snap some pics so you can see the clearance with the new bars.
    Grate, Thanks Sound like a good solution. Still With the 60mm Stock stem? And did You ride it, dont hope to much rise Will get the front wheel to be hopping On the climes.

  101. #301
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    Hey Guys i have now a Epic Evo Comp and it is a perfect Bike...but the Damper feels a Little bit harsh.
    My Setup is at 85kg 208Psi....

    cheers Andi

  102. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by andi73 View Post
    Hey Guys i have now a Epic Evo Comp and it is a perfect Bike...but the Damper feels a Little bit harsh.
    My Setup is at 85kg 208Psi....

    cheers Andi
    Hi Andi, specialized have suspension setup calculator:
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/su...calculator/app

  103. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Lake View Post
    Hi Andi, specialized have suspension setup calculator:
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/su...calculator/app
    yes i know..the calculator say 208Psi for my weight...

  104. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by andi73 View Post
    yes i know..the calculator say 208Psi for my weight...
    The suspension calculator appears to be jacked...has been for a while. For some reason they aren't listing anything for a L frame. Hopefully they are sorting it out.

    I set mine up based on recommended sag of 27.5%, adding air until I hit that point. Still playing around with it, and I may bump it to 25% to firm it up a bit. But, the guideline was a good starting point.

  105. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by andi73 View Post
    yes i know..the calculator say 208Psi for my weight...
    fwiw i am 173(about 79kg) and i have my shock at 210, which has my sag at 30%.

  106. #306
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    I'm still having fun adjusting the fit on mine. I swapped the stock bar/stem/grips for a RaceFace Turbine R 40mm stem/OneUp 20mm rise bar/Ergon GE1 Evo Factory grips. Fit and handling feel much improved with those changes. I also moved the Ground Control front tire to the rear and replaced the front with a Maxxis DHF 2.5WT 3C/EXO/MaxxTerra. Very happy with that change as well. Now i'm just waiting on a WTB Volt Carbon saddle to replace the Specialized Power Sport.
    The glass is twice as large as it needs to be

  107. #307
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    At 210#, am I crazy to consider the epic EVO? Mostly technical XC, not really racing but more into the fitness than sessioning. TIA

  108. #308
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    You'll be fine. I'm 200. My buddy is 210. We don't baby our EVOs.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  109. #309
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    Rear Fender

    Anyone find a rear fender that works well with the 2021 Epic Evo?
    2015 Specialized Crave SL Singlespeed
    2016 Yeti SB4.5c
    2021 Specialized Epic HT
    2021 Specialized Epic Evo Comp

  110. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    At 210#, am I crazy to consider the epic EVO? Mostly technical XC, not really racing but more into the fitness than sessioning. TIA
    Iím 225, and itís great for the Midwest singletrack we have in SE Michigan. Not a ton of chunk, but plenty of roots and smaller rocks.

  111. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by andi73 View Post
    Hey Guys i have now a Epic Evo Comp and it is a perfect Bike...but the Damper feels a Little bit harsh.
    My Setup is at 85kg 208Psi....

    cheers Andi
    I notice the fork seems to stiffen up a lot about halfway through its travel. I donít think itís a ramp up issue since no volume spacers are installed. I went ahead and did a lower leg service to see if that helps. Havenít had a chance to ride it yet.

    I donít know what Rockshox uses, but the foam rings were nearly impossible to get back in. Itís like theyíre oversized by about 20%. Super frustrating for such a simple operation.

  112. #312
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    Here are some pics of the SQLab 30x 12 Degree 45mm rise bar installed.


    With the bars installed perfectly level, I get about 20mm clearance to the top tube with my shift levers.



    About 15mm clearance from my dropper lever to the top tube. I'm pretty sure I'll end up angling the bar ends down slightly. So after adjusting my controls I expect to lose another 5mm of clearance on both sides. This is all with the stock 60mm stem and 2x5mm spacers under the stem.




    Stock Specialized Alloy Mini Rise bars weigh 266.6g which isn't terrible. The SQLab bars are pretty hefty at 340.4g. 73.8g penalty for me, but I can live with that till I get my fit dialed in. Then will probably end up swapping in carbon bars and a Kalloy Uno Stealth stem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2021 Epic EVO?-clearance-shifter.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-clearance-shifter-2.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-clearance-dropper.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-clearance-dropper-2.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-specialized-alloy-mini-rise.jpg  

    2021 Epic EVO?-sqlab-30x-12-45mm.jpg  


  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplydown View Post
    Here are some pics of the SQLab 30x 12 Degree 45mm rise bar installed.


    With the bars installed perfectly level, I get about 20mm clearance to the top tube with my shift levers.



    About 15mm clearance from my dropper lever to the top tube. I'm pretty sure I'll end up angling the bar ends down slightly. So after adjusting my controls I expect to lose another 5mm of clearance on both sides. This is all with the stock 60mm stem and 2x5mm spacers under the stem.




    Stock Specialized Alloy Mini Rise bars weigh 266.6g which isn't terrible. The SQLab bars are pretty hefty at 340.4g. 73.8g penalty for me, but I can live with that till I get my fit dialed in. Then will probably end up swapping in carbon bars and a Kalloy Uno Stealth stem.
    Grate fotos, thanks. Looks like just what Iíll do too. Just that I need 10mm longer stem to 70mm as the cockpit was bit to cramped on me as Iím between the medium and large.
    did you have any chance of riding it? Any difference up/down?

  114. #314
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    I cut the bars down to 700mm when I first bought the bike. The one negative thing Iíd say about this bike is that the front end wants to pop up and wander a bit more than I was used to. I enjoy climbing technical/steep stuff and felt the front end just felt a little off on switchbacks and climbing. Figured Iíd try a bit longer stem as I trimmed my bars pretty narrow anyway. Today was my first ride with a 80mm stem and it improved every aspect of my ride. I was able to climb with my front wheel planted, the wheel never washed out or felt like it was going to like it had previously, the descents felt more stable, and the tight turns felt so much better.

  115. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    I cut the bars down to 700mm when I first bought the bike. The one negative thing Iíd say about this bike is that the front end wants to pop up and wander a bit more than I was used to. I enjoy climbing technical/steep stuff and felt the front end just felt a little off on switchbacks and climbing. Figured Iíd try a bit longer stem as I trimmed my bars pretty narrow anyway. Today was my first ride with a 80mm stem and it improved every aspect of my ride. I was able to climb with my front wheel planted, the wheel never washed out or felt like it was going to like it had previously, the descents felt more stable, and the tight turns felt so much better.
    Grate to know, that your riding experience was improved. since I have ordered my medium expert I thought to put a longer 70mm stem on and was afraid that I ordered the wrong size frame as Iím between M and L. everybody everywhere talks about shorter stem I better. Iím glad that you have now confirmed that it is not always so 😁. Looking forward to try it out myself. Planing to get a 70mm or a 80mm stem and a riserbar on and hope that the ride will be spot on.

  116. #316
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    I just put down a deposit on a 2021 Epic Evo Comp (large satin carbon) and can hopefully pick it up in January which is when the shop expects it to come in. This will be my first Specialized bike in about 12 years as my last one was a hardtail stumpy (26") when I was just getting into biking. My other bike is an Ibis Ripmo V1 (GX build with I9 Hydra carbon wheels) and my past bikes were an RSD Wildcat V2, Ibis Ripley V2, Yeti SB66 (26") and Trek Fuel EX 8 (26"). I'm really looking forward to having another bike that's XC oriented but can pull double duty as a trail bike. I love the Ripmo for it's intended purpose but it's not as much fun on mellow trails, gravel, etc.

    Planned Mods:
    1. Swap the bars for the S-Works carbon bars
    2. Swap the SLX shifter for an XT shifter
    3. Swap the stock grips for Ergon GE1 Evo Factory in Frozen Moss / Oil Slick
    4. Swap the SLX cassette for an XT to save a little weight and burn an REI gift card and 20% off coupon

    I've also got a purple Onyx Vesper rear hub that I plan to build up on a Stans Arch MK3 rim to replace the rear wheel. I'd replace the front wheel as well at some point but not right away.

    Any suggestions for a XC/trail aluminum rim that's better than a Stans Arch MK3?

  117. #317
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    My other bike is also a Ripmo V1, and I just bought a Epic EVO Comp for all the same reasons you've specified. I'm happy with it, my two bike setup feels great and both bikes are getting quite a lot of use.

    The only thing I've upgraded so far is the wheels (I went carbon) since the stock wheels are quite heavy (over 2kg). The comp with lighter wheels is a great value and I'm very happy with it.

    I thought I'd go XT shifter, and probably will at some point. The SLX feels a little cheap, and multi-release is a feature I'm missing. But so far, hasn't bothered me enough to change it and the SLX drivetrain and brakes function perfectly.

  118. #318
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    My Epic Evo expert should come in 4 January and I had my super LBS to ďdowngradeĒ to
    XT shifter and direailer,
    SLX crank and brakes
    the rest stock expert model and kept the Roval carbon wheels, fork and shock. Which reduced the price to where I could stretch my pocket to as the expert costs pretty too much. so I guess Iíll end with a lightweight Comp or a cheaper Expert 😁
    Looking forward to se and test the result 🤠 donít hope that the delivery will delay due the pandemic situation.

  119. #319
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    Picked this up on Saturday and got in a shakedown ride on Sunday. First new mtb in 20 years. Thx to all here who answered my questions on sizing.


  120. #320
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    Still waiting

    Hello all, new here and have been monitoring this thread. Currently riding the good old 2006 Stumpjumper FSR Pro, old faithful. Upgraded last year to the 2019 Stumpjumper Comp Alloy 29 but at almost 35 lbs decided I didn't need all that bulk for the riding I was doing. So in July started looking and decided on the 2021 Epic Evo. Put the 2019 on the market and it was gone 2 days later for $100 less then I paid new. Had a chance in early august to grab an XL Comp in the carbon but held off for the Expert in blue. After being told multiple times, few more weeks, should be a few more weeks, maybe in a couple weeks....I've been going crazy! Old faithful still doing me right, but can't wait to get the new ride. All indications I am hearing from multiple sources now is January, I know an occasional one will arrive at a bike shop, just wish it was an XL Expert in blue at my shop.

    Great thread, hopefully I can be sharing more about my bike and set up and rides sooner rather than later.

  121. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sly Sharky View Post
    Great thread, hopefully I can be sharing more about my bike and set up and rides sooner rather than later.
    I don't know where you are located, but if you can drive to Boulder to University Cycles, they have one in stock (Expert in blue, XL):

    https://www.ubikes.com/product/speci...t-379996-1.htm

    I got mine from there a few weeks ago.

  122. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by vor_lord View Post
    I don't know where you are located, but if you can drive to Boulder to University Cycles, they have one in stock (Expert in blue, XL):

    https://www.ubikes.com/product/speci...t-379996-1.htm

    I got mine from there a few weeks ago.

    Thanks for the info, but way to far. Sit and wait for me.

  123. #323
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    someone drives 45mm Hub at the Evo?
    and what flipchip Setting are you ride...

  124. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sly Sharky View Post
    Hello all, new here and have been monitoring this thread. Currently riding the good old 2006 Stumpjumper FSR Pro, old faithful. Upgraded last year to the 2019 Stumpjumper Comp Alloy 29 but at almost 35 lbs decided I didn't need all that bulk for the riding I was doing. So in July started looking and decided on the 2021 Epic Evo. Put the 2019 on the market and it was gone 2 days later for $100 less then I paid new. Had a chance in early august to grab an XL Comp in the carbon but held off for the Expert in blue. After being told multiple times, few more weeks, should be a few more weeks, maybe in a couple weeks....I've been going crazy! Old faithful still doing me right, but can't wait to get the new ride. All indications I am hearing from multiple sources now is January, I know an occasional one will arrive at a bike shop, just wish it was an XL Expert in blue at my shop.

    Great thread, hopefully I can be sharing more about my bike and set up and rides sooner rather than later.
    Iím in the same boat. Ordered mine in August. It would be nice if Specialized corporate would share with their local reps (mine doesnít know) when they believe the bikes will be arriving on shore. Itís frustrating for dealers and consumers. Oh well, itís fat bike season in MN now so thereís no rush anymore for me.

  125. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbornia View Post
    Picked this up on Saturday and got in a shakedown ride on Sunday. First new mtb in 20 years. Thx to all here who answered my questions on sizing.

    Have you weighed it yet? I'm curious what the weight is in stock form for the Comp build. I'm seeing weights all over the place on YouTube reviews.

  126. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Have you weighed it yet? I'm curious what the weight is in stock form for the Comp build. I'm seeing weights all over the place on YouTube reviews.
    My large comp was:

    25.8lbs with 1 bottle cage, tubeless, no pedals.
    -28.4lbs 2 cages, pedals, swat tool, co2 and tube, bell, ground control front, fast track grid rear tire

    Also: https://www.theproscloset.com/produc...ike-2021-large

    It certainly starts out as a chunker, but substantial amounts of weight can be dropped off it, depending on your $$$.

  127. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    My large comp was:

    25.8lbs with 1 bottle cage, tubeless, no pedals.
    -28.4lbs 2 cages, pedals, swat tool, co2 and tube, bell, ground control front, fast track grid rear tire

    Also: https://www.theproscloset.com/produc...ike-2021-large

    It certainly starts out as a chunker, but substantial amounts of weight can be dropped off it, depending on your $$$.
    That bike is already sold but did you happen to see the price before it sold?

  128. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    That bike is already sold but did you happen to see the price before it sold?
    I did, donít remember exactly, it may have been only $100 less than MSRP. It sold a couple months ago. Anyway, I was only linking to the confirmed weight. TPC does a pretty good/accurate job weighing everything.

  129. #329
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    Anyone running a 130 fork on their EVO? I just picked up a FOX Factory to replace the stock Reba that came on the base model but thinking I should get a 120 air cartridge. Would the 130 change the geo enuff to make it too "Downcountry"?

  130. #330
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    I am currently shopping for a wheelset to go on the Epic Evo Comp and I'm all over the place. I have a like new Onyx Vesper hub (32h) that I can use for the rear wheel and have my local bike shop build around that, or I can try and sell that hub and start from scratch. If I stick with the Onyx Vesper I'd likely order a complete front wheel to match whatever rear rim I choose. This would be the cheaper option since I've got the huge expense of the rear hub already paid for. Or I could sell the Onyx hub and start fresh.

    I'm looking at carbon rims from Light Bicycle and Nextie (others?) or an aluminum Stans Arch MK3 ($100). I can get the Mk3's on Amazon for a huge discount by using Amazon points so that option is by far cheaper than the carbon options. I love the bling of hubs like I9's, Onyx etc, but I'm tempted to build up a carbon wheelset with DT 240 hubs to get as light as I can. I plan to use this bike for long xc rides, gravel rides, trail rides, small drops and small jumps, but nothing crazy that push the limits of a xc oriented wheel. I've got the Ripmo for that. Should I stick with 25mm inner width rims or jump to something closer to 30mm? Is there any advantage of running a 30mm inner width with tires in the 2.3 - 2.35 range or am I taking a weight penalty for no real advantage?

  131. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Anyone running a 130 fork on their EVO? I just picked up a FOX Factory to replace the stock Reba that came on the base model but thinking I should get a 120 air cartridge. Would the 130 change the geo enuff to make it too "Downcountry"?
    You could always flip the geo chip and get you back to something around 66.5 HTA. That said, the bike is already a weapon at 120mm front!

  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Should I stick with 25mm inner width rims or jump to something closer to 30mm? Is there any advantage of running a 30mm inner width with tires in the 2.3 - 2.35 range or am I taking a weight penalty for no real advantage?
    I think the 25mm inner is perfect for what you are describing. I previously was on 22.5mm inner with a hard tail (2.35 up front and 2.2 rear) and would hit just about anything except for drops >3ft. Now using these 2.3s on the 25mm wheels, it feels like I can plow over anything!

    I'd try to get something between 25-30 if you could. I like knowing I have the option of running something a little narrower than a 2.3 if wanted. You really shouldn't with a 30mm wheel. So if you know that you'll never run narrower than 2.3, 30 could be fine.

  133. #333
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    https://www.ambmag.com.au/feature/25...-biking-536920

    This article may have answered my question about 25mm vs 27mm vs 30mm. I plan to run 2.3-2.35 on the Epic Evo.

  134. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Have you weighed it yet? I'm curious what the weight is in stock form for the Comp build. I'm seeing weights all over the place on YouTube reviews.
    Not yet.

  135. #335
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    Good to know. Shop said same thing..

    Quote Originally Posted by G-Choro View Post
    You could always flip the geo chip and get you back to something around 66.5 HTA. That said, the bike is already a weapon at 120mm front!
    Nice that it's only a $45 cartridge and some labor to kick it back down to weapon status as designed!👍😎

  136. #336
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    2021 Epic EVO?

    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Have you weighed it yet? I'm curious what the weight is in stock form for the Comp build. I'm seeing weights all over the place on YouTube reviews.
    My Comp medium is 12.18kg based on the Park Tool digital scale, bone stock, 2 bottle cages, SWAT tool, tubeless, with shopís DMR flat pedals.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  137. #337
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    Has anyone put any Dyebro (or similar) Frame protection tapes on their Epic Evo? I had Invisiframe kit on my previous bike and I liked it but I'm thinking that this time I might want to try to have a bit more flair..

    Problem is that I don't know which would look good! I've got the dark color Epic Evo Comp on order so would be curious to see if anyone has had any other frame protections from Dyebro or their competitors?

  138. #338
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    I've added some 3M clear urethane protective tape on the RH chainstay where my shoe rubs and on the top tube. I've used this material previously on my bicycles and motorcycles and it works well. Specialized applied clear tape on some areas already, but this 3M material is thicker and will do a better job.

  139. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by huopa View Post
    Has anyone put any Dyebro (or similar) Frame protection tapes on their Epic Evo? I had Invisiframe kit on my previous bike and I liked it but I'm thinking that this time I might want to try to have a bit more flair..

    Problem is that I don't know which would look good! I've got the dark color Epic Evo Comp on order so would be curious to see if anyone has had any other frame protections from Dyebro or their competitors?
    I'm in the same camp as you with the darker frame. I added the clear sparkle from Dyedbro. Quality-wise it seems good, and it was easy to work with, but in addition to the darker frame (Chameleon and carbon) it's also a satin finish, so the gloss finish of the Dyedbro where it doesn't extend to the other parts of the frame makes the satin finish look not so great. They do offer a matte finish but only in clear.

  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikeworks View Post
    I'm in the same camp as you with the darker frame. I added the clear sparkle from Dyedbro. Quality-wise it seems good, and it was easy to work with, but in addition to the darker frame (Chameleon and carbon) it's also a satin finish, so the gloss finish of the Dyedbro where it doesn't extend to the other parts of the frame makes the satin finish look not so great. They do offer a matte finish but only in clear.
    Thanks that makes sense!
    Could you snap few pictures of your bike? If nothing else there can not be too many pictures of these bikes as one has to wait so long to get one! I ordered mine in September and should come in January..

  141. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by huopa View Post
    Thanks that makes sense!
    Could you snap few pictures of your bike? If nothing else there can not be too many pictures of these bikes as one has to wait so long to get one! I ordered mine in September and should come in January..
    Mine is an Epic HT, but sure. Either way you'll get a sense of what I'm talking about. The gloss masking really makes the color pop, but where it's missing the difference is severe.




  142. #342
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    I have the same paint finish on my Epic Evo Expert, but used the clear 3M protective tape. How did you apply your tape? It looks like it's not fully adhered to the surface. Also, the "sparkle" finish will always clash with your matte blue; better to choose a clear matte tape or one with a lot of design elements so your eye doesn't compare the two (slightly different) finishes.

  143. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlsedition View Post
    I have the same paint finish on my Epic Evo Expert, but used the clear 3M protective tape. How did you apply your tape? It looks like it's not fully adhered to the surface. Also, the "sparkle" finish will always clash with your matte blue; better to choose a clear matte tape or one with a lot of design elements so your eye doesn't compare the two (slightly different) finishes.
    I didn't know they used that on another model of Epic. It's on per the video instructions, nary a bubble to be found on most of it (had some trouble getting it settled behind the stays). The satin carbon over the two colors really takes away from them IMO, but I got a great deal on the bike so I'm not complaining

  144. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Should I stick with 25mm inner width rims or jump to something closer to 30mm? Is there any advantage of running a 30mm inner width with tires in the 2.3 - 2.35 range or am I taking a weight penalty for no real advantage?
    I've spent a lot of time playing around with rims, tires, inserts, and whatnot on my previous Epic Evo. While you won't find a huge DISadvantage to running 2.35 tires (especially in the Maxxis line, like the Ikon, Ardent Race, or Rekon Race, which are a bit more voluminous than the "2.35" Schwalbe Racing Ray/Ralph or Vittoria Mezcal/Barzo), there's no major advantage to that rim width over 25-27mm rims for tires that size. Just as you concluded, if you're going to run any smaller-size tires, say bumping down to a 2.2-2.25 for a muddy race, a 25mm rim will support those small tires a lot better than the 30mm and not square them off. I really don't like the feel of XC tires when they're on too wide of a rim (e.g. a 2.2 Ikon/Ardent Race/Forekaster or 2.25 Rekon/Rekon Race on a 30mm rim) because you get a distinct "fall-off" in cornering where you lose edge grip. A rounder profile makes for better cornering grip, especially on uneven/techy surfaces.

    That said, if you do think you'll be running a 2.4 WT (say, a Rekon, or the new Rekon Race/Aspen in the 2.4 WT XC) in the back -- which just *barely* cleared on the old Epic Evo, and may clear by a bit more on the new one -- you'll want at least a 27-28mm rim, ideally a 30mm. Even with a CushCore XC insert to give the tire more stability, a 2.4 Rekon on a 25-26mm rim tends to tip and deflect in awkward ways. I'm not sure if I see the need to run such a big tire in the rear -- if you want big volume, a 2.35 Ikon/Ardent Race/Rekon Race will keep you happy out back and you can put a 2.4 WT Rekon up front for more traction. If I end up building a new wheelset for my Epic Evo I'll probably lace a Reserve 25 rim in the rear and a Reserve 27 front. Those rims play nicely with my typical XC daily-driver tire combo of Ardent Race 2.35/Rekon 2.4 as well as a racier Rekon Race 2.35/Aspen 2.4.

    My sense is that these same rules would apply to more enduro-ish tires (e.g. running an Aggressor or Minion DHF in a 2.3, or DHR II 2.4 WT), but I could be wrong. With those thicker casings you may want a 30mm rim even for a 2.3. I have been running a Rock Razor 2.35 and/or Minion SS 2.3 on a 30mm rim on my trail bike and it doesn't seem too "square," even for a semi-slick. However, the side knobs do engage quicker than they would on a narrower rim -- which is a huge boon on dicey off-cambers where you don't want to be leaning the bike hard to engage those side knobs.

  145. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubbinalia View Post
    I've spent a lot of time playing around with rims, tires, inserts, and whatnot on my previous Epic Evo...
    GREAT insights in this post!

  146. #346
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    Just took a demo ride on a size large comp. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam. Currently ride an XL Scott spark rc. I was a little nervous for the smaller size epic, but I'm super impressed.

    Specialized bike size app but me on a L with 29" bb to saddle rails, which is where the saddle is on my other bikes. The bike definitely felt a little short at first, but I rolled the bars up a little bit and the saddle back. The fit was perfect. I think an XL would be too big.

    First, the ride quality blew Scott out of the water. On par with Santa Cruz and Ibis bikes I have ridden. Being the XC front triangle I thought the bike would feel fragile like my spark but it felt durable. Overall impressed by what specialized has done.

    My current beef with the spark is the suspension. It's too progressive (shock and leverage curve) and only really works on bit hits and flow trails. I've been dying on steep/rocky terrain and never use full travel. The Epic was noticably more linear. Definitely didn't feel bottomless, at the same time it handle chunk way better than my Scott. Personally, it felt like the the bike had 100mm of travel and went a little too quickly threw the travel. IMO that's better than having 100mm but only using 60-70mm. I also think it's easy to make a shock more progressive than linear (my Scott with no tokens is still too progressive).

    Pedalling was great. As good as any dw link or vpp bike I've ridden. I ran 25-30% sag at various times and never experienced pedal bob. I liked that the suspension had great platform until a bump and then seemed to open up unharshly and absorb the bump. I'm so used to being bounced around and going up tech very slowly that it took a while to adjust to the fact I could climb tech quickly.

    Climbing was great. I never noticed the slack hta (compared to my spark). I did notice is was slightly less nimble and I had to plan where I was going a bit more rather than turning on a dime. Not a huge difference, but it just took slightly more input. Overall I say it climbs better than the spark with a lockout.

    The downhill was my real jaw dropper. I was surprised at how stable the bike was. Even at high speeds the bike was very stable and confident. Felt to more like a Santa Cruz Bronson downhill than an xc bike.

    Adjusting the suspension on the bike worked a lot better than my spark. Too much or till little pressure resulted in a harsh feeling on the spark. Was a super finicky setup and a few lbs of weight such as a camelback instead of a water bottle could make the shock feel like crap. On the Epic, it really only affected ride height, not the feel of the suspension. It handled a lot more than I thought it would as well.. The rear end was used pretty fast, but it never really felt harsh, just bumpy. I can live with that.

    Overall, I feel like this bike climbs like an xc bike with a steeper hta and descends like a slack Enduro bike (minus the travel). Really great all rounder that can be a competitive race bike.

    Build kit on the comp surprised me. SLX felt just as good as xtr. Kind of a shame you can't dump a lot of gears or go up a lot of gears with the shifter though. The wheels really surprised me. I thought the hubs would be utter crap, but they were better than whatever came on my Spark RC pro. Way less draggy and silent. Obviously heavy though, but not as bad as the internet claimed.

    I decided this bike will replace my Spark. Hopefully I can find a comp build and not have to wait until 2022 lol. Planning on upgrading the wheels, and adding remote lockout for racing. Possible a shorter travel fork if I really need something more nimble. So stoked for this bike!
    Last edited by Ksanman; 3 Days Ago at 09:19 AM.

  147. #347
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    Is the front rotor on the comp a 200mm or 203mm? Iím building wheels with 6 bolt hubs and will need new rotors since the stock rotors are centerlock.

  148. #348
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    2020 Spark RC owner here who found a large Epic Evo today in town. But it's blue. Wanted red (pandemic beggars can't be choosers). The Expert carbon wheels are pretty heavy (1650 grams) and the cassette and chain are GX. I'd sell the SRAM brakes ASAP as well. And the suspension is one level down from what's offered on the $6000 Spur X01 build. I digress.

    Also found a new Epic Evo Comp in small for my sister in town today. She's 115 pound so the 4 piston brake would be an easy sell and swap on my 2 piston XT. The wheels are indeed tanks as is the SLX cassette, but I'd keep that for her and swap the SLX shifter for XT while I'm putting on her carbon bar and lighter stem. With my old carbon wheels (1450 grams) I think the Comp could turn into a nice all-day lightweight climber for her. Maybe 24.5 pounds?

    Great post, thanks for taking the time!

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Is the front rotor on the comp a 200mm or 203mm? Iím building wheels with 6 bolt hubs and will need new rotors since the stock rotors are centerlock.

    The rotor is a center lock 180 on the front and 160 rear for the comp.

  150. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zguitar71 View Post
    The rotor is a center lock 180 on the front and 160 rear for the comp.

    Just checking that you are 100% sure since that doesn't match up with the website.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2021 Epic EVO?-capture.jpg  


  151. #351
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    2021 Epic EVO?

    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Just checking that you are 100% sure since that doesn't match up with the website.
    Mine came with 180/160. Size L. They also have an error on the comp fork. It comes with the select. Not the select +.

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Is the front rotor on the comp a 200mm or 203mm? Iím building wheels with 6 bolt hubs and will need new rotors since the stock rotors are centerlock.
    They are 180/160 SM-RT64 s. You could run up to 180 rear, and you'd have to check with RS what they'd allow for front; I'm assuming 200.

  153. #353
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    Upset

    Quote Originally Posted by amadkins View Post
    Mine came with 180/160. Size L. They also have an error on the comp fork. It comes with the select. Not the select +.
    I know! It's a super upsetting typo, because I really wanted the charger 2 damper. The upgrade is quite a bit and​ the upgrade is the only way to get an RL for the fork.

  154. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    I know! It's a super upsetting typo, because I really wanted the charger 2 damper. The upgrade is quite a bit and​ the upgrade is the only way to get an RL for the fork.
    The Select has the Charger RL where the Select+ has the Charger 2 RL. From what Iíve read, the only different is that the Charger 2 has a softer high speed compression shim stack. Same fork other than that.

    When I service the damper side, Iím going to move some shims around to see the difference. The Charger RL is a pretty harsh feeling damper for what I do. Maybe for guys who like a really firm pedaling platform itís good, but I like a bit softer ride.

  155. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubbinalia View Post
    I've spent a lot of time playing around with rims, tires, inserts, and whatnot on my previous Epic Evo. While you won't find a huge DISadvantage to running 2.35 tires (especially in the Maxxis line, like the Ikon, Ardent Race, or Rekon Race, which are a bit more voluminous than the "2.35" Schwalbe Racing Ray/Ralph or Vittoria Mezcal/Barzo), there's no major advantage to that rim width over 25-27mm rims for tires that size. Just as you concluded, if you're going to run any smaller-size tires, say bumping down to a 2.2-2.25 for a muddy race, a 25mm rim will support those small tires a lot better than the 30mm and not square them off. I really don't like the feel of XC tires when they're on too wide of a rim (e.g. a 2.2 Ikon/Ardent Race/Forekaster or 2.25 Rekon/Rekon Race on a 30mm rim) because you get a distinct "fall-off" in cornering where you lose edge grip. A rounder profile makes for better cornering grip, especially on uneven/techy surfaces.

    That said, if you do think you'll be running a 2.4 WT (say, a Rekon, or the new Rekon Race/Aspen in the 2.4 WT XC) in the back -- which just *barely* cleared on the old Epic Evo, and may clear by a bit more on the new one -- you'll want at least a 27-28mm rim, ideally a 30mm. Even with a CushCore XC insert to give the tire more stability, a 2.4 Rekon on a 25-26mm rim tends to tip and deflect in awkward ways. I'm not sure if I see the need to run such a big tire in the rear -- if you want big volume, a 2.35 Ikon/Ardent Race/Rekon Race will keep you happy out back and you can put a 2.4 WT Rekon up front for more traction. If I end up building a new wheelset for my Epic Evo I'll probably lace a Reserve 25 rim in the rear and a Reserve 27 front. Those rims play nicely with my typical XC daily-driver tire combo of Ardent Race 2.35/Rekon 2.4 as well as a racier Rekon Race 2.35/Aspen 2.4.

    My sense is that these same rules would apply to more enduro-ish tires (e.g. running an Aggressor or Minion DHF in a 2.3, or DHR II 2.4 WT), but I could be wrong. With those thicker casings you may want a 30mm rim even for a 2.3. I have been running a Rock Razor 2.35 and/or Minion SS 2.3 on a 30mm rim on my trail bike and it doesn't seem too "square," even for a semi-slick. However, the side knobs do engage quicker than they would on a narrower rim -- which is a huge boon on dicey off-cambers where you don't want to be leaning the bike hard to engage those side knobs.
    Yes big thanks for writing that up. I decided to go with BTLOS 25mm 32h premium carbon rims and I'll have my LBS build them around Onyx Vesper hubs with DT Swiss Comp Race spokes. The rims were $404.17 shipped and now I'm just hoping that they hold up. I was willing to take the chance given how many positive reviews BTLOS has on this forum. They have a black Friday sale going on right now but they increased the cost of shipping (from $50 to $80) via FedEx to offset the black Friday discount.

  156. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by amadkins View Post
    The Charger RL is a pretty harsh feeling damper for what I do. Maybe for guys who like a really firm pedaling platform itís good, but I like a bit softer ride.
    I'd agree. Coming from a Fox factory fork, the Sid is a bit too firm/harsh on the small stuff. That's why I wanted to Charger 2 damper. Additionally, having the option of adding a remote lockout down the road, would've been nice. When things get rowdy, it performs well, in my opinion.

  157. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Just checking that you are 100% sure since that doesn't match up with the website.
    well that is strange because the website used to have them listed as 180/160. I also bought a Comp in late September and the rotors on it are 180/160. I see they donít list the size of the rotors on the Expert and Pro models. Maybe it is a new change in the lat week or two, like the pricing.

  158. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Yes big thanks for writing that up. I decided to go with BTLOS 25mm 32h premium carbon rims and I'll have my LBS build them around Onyx Vesper hubs with DT Swiss Comp Race spokes. The rims were $404.17 shipped and now I'm just hoping that they hold up. I was willing to take the chance given how many positive reviews BTLOS has on this forum. They have a black Friday sale going on right now but they increased the cost of shipping (from $50 to $80) via FedEx to offset the black Friday discount.
    I have the 25mm ones. btlos built them up with the 240 hubs. The whole wheelset is super light and they seem to be fine for now. I only have about 100 miles on them.

  159. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zguitar71 View Post
    well that is strange because the website used to have them listed as 180/160. I also bought a Comp in late September and the rotors on it are 180/160. I see they donít list the size of the rotors on the Expert and Pro models. Maybe it is a new change in the lat week or two, like the pricing.
    I heard that part of the issue there are no bikes is because they can't get components. I wonder if they aren't modifying the original specs here and there to get bikes out to the shops?

  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sly Sharky View Post
    I heard that part of the issue there are no bikes is because they can't get components. I wonder if they aren't modifying the original specs here and there to get bikes out to the shops?
    My local Speci dealer has been waiting on an SLX rear caliper for over a month. Said he'd take off an XT or XTR caliper from any bike or try to find a caliper if someone wants to buy this 2021 Comp. My local Yeti dealer said they're receiving bikes with different parts just so they can sell a complete. Being 100% up front with customers..."yes, we know it should have X part, but there's Y, and we'll refund the difference if lower spec, but if it's higher then no charge."

  161. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sly Sharky View Post
    I heard that part of the issue there are no bikes is because they can't get components. I wonder if they aren't modifying the original specs here and there to get bikes out to the shops?
    Yeah, I wouldnít be surprised if that was the case.

  162. #362
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    Have any of you demoíd both the Evo and the Spur? Iím interested in getting your opinions. I test rode both but in a medium when I actually need larges. The Spur just killed the descents and actually PRís a segment that previously was held on my Ibis HD5. I was totally blown away. Climbing on the Spur was great too. The shop moved the saddle back a bit and installed a 50mm stem to get the fit reasonable for me.

    The Evo climbed similar to the Spur but I was 14 seconds slower on the 3 minute descent I rode the Spur on. Iím not making any categorical decisions since the reach on the Evo felt short compared to the Transition which held me back a bit on letting loose.

    So Iím kind of confused as to which direction Iím going to go.

    Thoughts?

  163. #363
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    Seems like you should be timing the climbs as well as the descents. And repeat the trials multiple times before reaching conclusions.

    I own a new Epic Evo, but understand the Spur is a great "downcountry" choice as well. Depends on your priorities. Is it more important to climb than descend where you ride? Do you expect to race your bike? Is one brand's aesthetics better to you than the other? Do you have a local dealer for both brands? Are you confident that service/parts will be equally available for both? Are the product warranties the same?

    Based on what I've read, either bike would be a good decision from a pure performance standpoint. I can certainly attest to the Epic Evo being a great bike for the trails I ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2021 Epic EVO?-epic-evo.jpg  


  164. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by wooly88 View Post
    Have any of you demoíd both the Evo and the Spur? Iím interested in getting your opinions. I test rode both but in a medium when I actually need larges. The Spur just killed the descents and actually PRís a segment that previously was held on my Ibis HD5. I was totally blown away. Climbing on the Spur was great too. The shop moved the saddle back a bit and installed a 50mm stem to get the fit reasonable for me.

    The Evo climbed similar to the Spur but I was 14 seconds slower on the 3 minute descent I rode the Spur on. Iím not making any categorical decisions since the reach on the Evo felt short compared to the Transition which held me back a bit on letting loose.

    So Iím kind of confused as to which direction Iím going to go.

    Thoughts?
    What kind of climbing did your demos take place on? Slow, chunky, technical? Fast, smooth, big gear?
    Same question about the descent: swoopy, roots, jumps, tight?
    Thanks in advance.

  165. #365
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    Unless you had the same tires on each (one comes with a Dissector front, Rekon rear, the other comes with Ground Control/Fast Trak), Iím not sure that drawing those conclusions is entirely warranted.


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  166. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksanman View Post
    Just took a demo ride on a size large comp. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam. Currently ride an XL Scott spark rc. I was a little nervous for the smaller size epic, but I'm super impressed.

    Specialized bike size app but me on a L with 29" bb to saddle rails, which is where the saddle is on my other bikes. The bike definitely felt a little short at first, but I rolled the bars up a little bit and the saddle back. The fit was perfect. I think an XL would be too big.
    That's interesting data on the sizing, especially since the XL Spark RC has a pretty long reach (480ish if I remember correctly?) so to size down to LG on the Epic Evo definitely says something about the bike. What size stem are you running on the Evo? It's specced with a 60mm, right?

    I'm almost exactly your same size and found the reach on the old Epic a little short (465mm for the XL Evo). The pedaling position was excellent once I sized up to a 90mm negative rise stem but the descending position was sketchy -- more "on" the bike than "in" the bike.

    I'm stoked for the longer reach on the new XL Evo, but I'd for sure buy an XXL if they made one. I wouldn't mind a more stretched-out pedaling position on an XC bike with 505-510mm reach and the descending stability would for sure be improved. Some loss of "snappiness," no doubt, but I always find that has more to do with suspension tuning and travel numbers than it does with geometry per se.

  167. #367
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    2021 Epic EVO?

    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Unless you had the same tires on each (one comes with a Dissector front, Rekon rear, the other comes with Ground Control/Fast Trak), Iím not sure that drawing those conclusions is entirely warranted.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    First I totally acknowledge that my comparison wasnít scientific. I had one morning on both and. They were the wrong size. But both had carbon wheels with Rekons on rear and Dissectors up front. Gearing was the same. But the fit was different.

    The major climb on this loop was overall about the same time wise. I was just wondering if any others have demoíd the same bikes to get their thoughts.

    Itís been 20+ years since Iíve owned a specialized and Iíve never owned a transition. Aesthetically I think theyíre both great looking but in different ways.

    Thanks.

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sly Sharky View Post
    I heard that part of the issue there are no bikes is because they can't get components. I wonder if they aren't modifying the original specs here and there to get bikes out to the shops?
    There has to be truth to this.

    The threads on my shock extender stripped so I contacted multiple bike shops to see if the could get the part in for me --there is an aluminum and carbon fiber (for the SW) extender-- but every shop I contacted told me the part was unavailable. I finally got some hope when I contacted the Specialized experience center and their Rep said there was exactly one of those parts entering the US and they ordered it for me. This was a few weeks ago and they aren't expecting the part until mid-December at the earliest. Side note, be very careful with the threads if you're flippin' that chip.

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    There has to be truth to this.

    The threads on my shock extender stripped so I contacted multiple bike shops to see if the could get the part in for me --there is an aluminum and carbon fiber (for the SW) extender-- but every shop I contacted told me the part was unavailable. I finally got some hope when I contacted the Specialized experience center and their Rep said there was exactly one of those parts entering the US and they ordered it for me. This was a few weeks ago and they aren't expecting the part until mid-December at the earliest. Side note, be very careful with the threads if you're flippin' that chip.
    Good to know. Any feedback on how the flip changes the ride?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  170. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    Good to know. Any feedback on how the flip changes the ride?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Long story short, Iíve only every ridden the bike in the high position. Iíd say Iím a fairly aggressive XC rider and Iím coming from a hardtail with a 71 degree HTA, so the high position is plenty slack for me. Maybe Iíd try out the low position if I was taking a trip to Moab or Fruita or something similar, but for all of the riding I do, high is perfect.

  171. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubbinalia View Post
    That's interesting data on the sizing, especially since the XL Spark RC has a pretty long reach (480ish if I remember correctly?) so to size down to LG on the Epic Evo definitely says something about the bike. What size stem are you running on the Evo? It's specced with a 60mm, right?

    I'm almost exactly your same size and found the reach on the old Epic a little short (465mm for the XL Evo). The pedaling position was excellent once I sized up to a 90mm negative rise stem but the descending position was sketchy -- more "on" the bike than "in" the bike.

    I'm stoked for the longer reach on the new XL Evo, but I'd for sure buy an XXL if they made one. I wouldn't mind a more stretched-out pedaling position on an XC bike with 505-510mm reach and the descending stability would for sure be improved. Some loss of "snappiness," no doubt, but I always find that has more to do with suspension tuning and travel numbers than it does with geometry per se.
    One thing to note is that the 2021 L front center is 10mm longer than the 2019 XL. And the stack is lower. MY2021 bikes are pretty big.

    Comparing the specialized to Scott, a large epic is basically an xl spark with a slacker hta, more standover, and a longer front center.

    I've over forked my spark rc to 120mm and I did have to run a 120mm stem to stop the speed wobble. It never felt to short in reach though. I've ridden an xl Orbea oiz as well which is similar but the L epic is bigger, slacker, and feels bigger/more stable.

    I've thrown buying bikes based on geometry numbers out the window. I rode an XL Ibis Ripley and that bike felt really short and twitchy. But on paper it's significantly bigger than my spark (500 reach, 658 ett, a front center around 800).

  172. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksanman View Post
    One thing to note is that the 2021 L front center is 10mm longer than the 2019 XL. And the stack is lower. MY2021 bikes are pretty big.

    Comparing the specialized to Scott, a large epic is basically an xl spark with a slacker hta, more standover, and a longer front center.

    I've over forked my spark rc to 120mm and I did have to run a 120mm stem to stop the speed wobble. It never felt to short in reach though. I've ridden an xl Orbea oiz as well which is similar but the L epic is bigger, slacker, and feels bigger/more stable.

    I've thrown buying bikes based on geometry numbers out the window. I rode an XL Ibis Ripley and that bike felt really short and twitchy. But on paper it's significantly bigger than my spark (500 reach, 658 ett, a front center around 800).
    Huh, I wonder if there is something about your riding style that may contravene the conventional wisdom about how certain geo changes make a bike feel. What sort of terrain are you riding in? If you're charging through very steep, ledgey, technical terrain with awkward starts and stops (thinking of trails like the north end of Gooseberry Mesa in St George, or some of the more old-school Sedona trails), then the short stem on the Ripley v4 might cause it to feel "twitchy" in a weird way. At higher speeds on modern flow trails the effect tends to reverse itself -- longer stems feel off-balance and shorter stems are more stable. Most bikes now are designed around handling higher speeds and bigger features rather than the trials-like starts and stops of old-school tech-XC riding. But good grief, I can't imagine running a 120mm stem on a modern bike... 90mm seemed comically long!

    Front center is an odd beast because it's really just a partial measurement of wheel base. (Some people size their bikes based on wheel base -- shoutout to Andrew Major at NSMB -- but that's a different story.) The front center on the new Epic Evo is longer because of the 2-degree slacker HTA in addition to the longer reach. Changing HTA without changing reach to match would lead to some awkward handling. The slacker geometry demands you ride more aggressively and over the front end rather than the more traditional, centered-to-rearward XC-style riding left over from the days of 70+deg head tubes. To accommodate that more aggressive position, it makes sense to have a roomier cockpit and hence a longer reach. When I rode the size LG around and tried to push it up to speed on technical descents, it felt like it was going to spit me out the front at any minute, but when I hesitated and got re-centered in the cockpit, the slacker front end wouldn't have good traction. The added reach of the XL (and marginally higher stack) will, I think, be ideal for me.

    Of course, sizing is super personal, so I completely understand where you're coming from and glad you found a bike that works. Interesting data point for sure! :-)

  173. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubbinalia View Post
    Huh, I wonder if there is something about your riding style that may contravene the conventional wisdom about how certain geo changes make a bike feel. What sort of terrain are you riding in? If you're charging through very steep, ledgey, technical terrain with awkward starts and stops (thinking of trails like the north end of Gooseberry Mesa in St George, or some of the more old-school Sedona trails), then the short stem on the Ripley v4 might cause it to feel "twitchy" in a weird way. At higher speeds on modern flow trails the effect tends to reverse itself -- longer stems feel off-balance and shorter stems are more stable. Most bikes now are designed around handling higher speeds and bigger features rather than the trials-like starts and stops of old-school tech-XC riding. But good grief, I can't imagine running a 120mm stem on a modern bike... 90mm seemed comically long!

    Front center is an odd beast because it's really just a partial measurement of wheel base. (Some people size their bikes based on wheel base -- shoutout to Andrew Major at NSMB -- but that's a different story.) The front center on the new Epic Evo is longer because of the 2-degree slacker HTA in addition to the longer reach. Changing HTA without changing reach to match would lead to some awkward handling. The slacker geometry demands you ride more aggressively and over the front end rather than the more traditional, centered-to-rearward XC-style riding left over from the days of 70+deg head tubes. To accommodate that more aggressive position, it makes sense to have a roomier cockpit and hence a longer reach. When I rode the size LG around and tried to push it up to speed on technical descents, it felt like it was going to spit me out the front at any minute, but when I hesitated and got re-centered in the cockpit, the slacker front end wouldn't have good traction. The added reach of the XL (and marginally higher stack) will, I think, be ideal for me.

    Of course, sizing is super personal, so I completely understand where you're coming from and glad you found a bike that works. Interesting data point for sure! :-)

    I've been weighting the front since before modern geo was conceived. I'm very aware of the benefits of modern geo. I have always been sized on an XL bike, but end up getting an XL then slamming the seat forward.

    The problem with the Ripley is even with the seat slammed back the cockpit was too short. Then descending, the bike was too long. I had to put my weight so far forward to keep traction on the front that there was none on the back. I have this same problem to an extent with SC Tallboy and Hightower, but not as bad as the Ripley where I actually almost went over the bars a few times.

    The bike that has fit me the best is the XL SC Bronson. It's a great bike but too much bike for what I ride 90% of the time. Also, sold out until 2022.

    I wanted to try an XL Epic Evo, but there were none available to demo. There are also none available to buy (except for the sworks models, but I'm no dentist), and my LBS can't order Specialized anymore because MY2021 is oversold. I have sourced a few large comps though. I know the smart choice is wait until next year and try an XL before buy when it becomes a buyers market, I just don't know if I can live with being beat to death by my Spark and being dropped downhill for another summer.

  174. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    I know! It's a super upsetting typo, because I really wanted the charger 2 damper. The upgrade is quite a bit and​ the upgrade is the only way to get an RL for the fork.
    I pointed this out to my LBS -- they gave me $250 off in compensation (which I think is the cost of the damper upgrade). The bike shop says they are currently hand modifying their website every day to correct the spec because specialized's site (which they download from) is still saying select+.

    It's not cool at all to downgrade parts -- upgrade at no charge to fill orders, downgrade only with a discount.

  175. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    Long story short, Iíve only every ridden the bike in the high position. Iíd say Iím a fairly aggressive XC rider and Iím coming from a hardtail with a 71 degree HTA, so the high position is plenty slack for me. Maybe Iíd try out the low position if I was taking a trip to Moab or Fruita or something similar, but for all of the riding I do, high is perfect.
    Wait, do they ship the bike in high? I haven't touched mine, just assumed I was in low.

  176. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogswell23 View Post
    Wait, do they ship the bike in high? I haven't touched mine, just assumed I was in low.
    Shipped low.

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  177. #377
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    I can get the Comp in January or wait until May/June for the Expert. Is it worth waiting? I was going to upgrade the wheels and maybe some of the components on the Comp. I think the upgrades would get me close to the Expert's cost and the Expert would still have better shocks.

    Is there that much of a difference in the next level shock for the Expert?

  178. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dynastar View Post
    I can get the Comp in January or wait until May/June for the Expert. Is it worth waiting? I was going to upgrade the wheels and maybe some of the components on the Comp. I think the upgrades would get me close to the Expert's cost and the Expert would still have better shocks.Is there that much of a difference in the next level shock for the Expert?
    I bought the Expert model and am very satisfied with it. What I don't know is how it compares to the Comp on trails. With new bikes so scarce, I doubt many have ridden both models back-to-back.

  179. #379
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    Looking for specs on the stock rear thru bolt on the Epic Evo Comp...I know itís 12x148 but am uncertain about the threading. Pulled it out and did not recognize the other number printed on it. Could it be 1.5 pitch like the front bolt, or something different?

  180. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dynastar View Post
    I can get the Comp in January or wait until May/June for the Expert. Is it worth waiting? I was going to upgrade the wheels and maybe some of the components on the Comp. I think the upgrades would get me close to the Expert's cost and the Expert would still have better shocks.

    Is there that much of a difference in the next level shock for the Expert?
    I had the choice of either one and went with the comp. I just ordered a set of wheels from BTLOS. My goal was to have 2 sets of wheels, one for commuting and one for off-road. I ride the bike nearly everyday between the two styles. The winter here (Missoula MT) is hard on everything with all the salt on the roads so having the heavy cheap wheels that come on the bike for that is ok with me. The wheels weigh in at 1360 grams so they are quite a bit lighter than the expertís Rovals but they are from China so there is that stigma I guess but I have found others with good long term success with BTLOS. Iím also going to change to an XTR cassette. That plus carbon bars and a seat and race face cranks will get the bike under the expert weight and about the same price. The rear shock could be changed to the Sidluxe instead of the cranks too then the shocks would be comparable but I donít know if I could really tell much difference between the two, it is not a dramatic difference.

  181. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zguitar71 View Post
    I had the choice of either one and went with the comp. I just ordered a set of wheels from BTLOS. My goal was to have 2 sets of wheels, one for commuting and one for off-road. I ride the bike nearly everyday between the two styles. The winter here (Missoula MT) is hard on everything with all the salt on the roads so having the heavy cheap wheels that come on the bike for that is ok with me. The wheels weigh in at 1360 grams so they are quite a bit lighter than the expertís Rovals but they are from China so there is that stigma I guess but I have found others with good long term success with BTLOS. Iím also going to change to an XTR cassette. That plus carbon bars and a seat and race face cranks will get the bike under the expert weight and about the same price. The rear shock could be changed to the Sidluxe instead of the cranks too then the shocks would be comparable but I donít know if I could really tell much difference between the two, it is not a dramatic difference.
    Good plan. We looked at the Comp yesterday, and first thing I'd do is put on my old 1450g carbon wheels, nice carbon bar and lighter stem. Then swap out the 4piston brakes (she's only 120 pounds). I'll keep the SLX cassette on because my parts bin doesn't have any microspline, and swap the shifter to XT for the multi release.
    I have the Evo Epic Expert. Everyone seems to be selling the relatively heavy 1600-ish gram carbon wheels and getting close to $900! The GX cassette and crank are being sold; already have X01 and XX1. I can get locally built carbon wheels for less (on Chinese rims which I've had great luck with for many years). Paying $4200 plus tax for the Comp, sell wheels locally for few bucks to someone building loaner/project bike, sell SLX brakes, and come out at about 24.5 pounds for a Small.

    The Comp with few changes, as you are doing, makes sense if someone has the means to swap. The Expert is not really a X01, but more GX/X01, and it's only a good deal relatively speaking compared to the $$$$ Pro. As others have proven, Specialized complete bikes cost more than building up a frame and putting better parts. Compared to Transition, Speci is 1 tier lower in spec and suspension for the same price.

  182. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dynastar View Post
    I can get the Comp in January or wait until May/June for the Expert. Is it worth waiting? I was going to upgrade the wheels and maybe some of the components on the Comp. I think the upgrades would get me close to the Expert's cost and the Expert would still have better shocks.

    Is there that much of a difference in the next level shock for the Expert?
    I demoed the SW and ended up buying a comp. I didn't notice a difference with the shock or fork. I love everything Shimano at the moment, so the brakes and hyperglide + shifting was a steal for me. I think it's interesting that the Expert doesn't come with the 52t cassette and has a 30t chain ring; minor issues, but things that bother me. I'd personally choose a different carbon wheelset over the Rovals. Obviously personal preference, but I'd go comp and upgrade the wheelset over the Expert.

  183. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr21589 View Post
    I demoed the SW and ended up buying a comp. I didn't notice a difference with the shock or fork. I love everything Shimano at the moment, so the brakes and hyperglide + shifting was a steal for me. I think it's interesting that the Expert doesn't come with the 52t cassette and has a 30t chain ring; minor issues, but things that bother me. I'd personally choose a different carbon wheelset over the Rovals. Obviously personal preference, but I'd go comp and upgrade the wheelset over the Expert.
    I have tested the comp and was quit happy with that. But wanted it a bit lighter for better acceleration otherwise the SLX setup and suspension was grate.
    Was not shure how will the bare carbon colour will be for scratches and damage so wanted a full coloured. The only comp available was this purl Waite which wasn't my cop of te....

    Iíve ended ordering the orange Expert just a day before prices got 14% higher and will arrive 4.January (new Christmas Eve date)

    Wanted the Shimano setup so, got my Bike-shop to change all SRAM gear and brakes to Shimano XT gears and SLX 4Pbrakes. That reduced the end price quit much. The rest stock Expert carbon wheels and suspension.

    My last new bike day was for 8 years ago 26Ē cannondale Scalpel and alot have happened since. So Iím SUPER exited upgrading my hobby and Looking forward to the new bike day like a little child to Christmas

  184. #384
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    I know there are so many variables, but what size Epic Evo are 5'6" riders going with? Terrain is flat/rolling with lots of long climbs.

  185. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    I know there are so many variables, but what size Epic Evo are 5'6" riders going with? Terrain is flat/rolling with lots of long climbs.
    I'm 5' 7" tall with a 29" inseam and bought a Medium. Works well for me.

  186. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlsedition View Post
    I'm 5' 7" tall with a 29" inseam and bought a Medium. Works well for me.
    Im 5í4 medium works great with a 40mm stem. Look at the Geo church and compare to what you are currently riding. With the current trend of longer top tubes and shorter stems I think a medium would be good for you.


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  187. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollinrob View Post
    Im 5í4 medium works great with a 40mm stem. Look at the Geo church and compare to what you are currently riding. With the current trend of longer top tubes and shorter stems I think a medium would be good for you.


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    Thanks. She's 5'6", and geometry geeks has the Small as pretty close to her current old Niner Jet 9, but she could also go shorter stem and work a medium. No mediums in town, but several a long drive away (or on PB).

  188. #388
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    My wife is 5'5" and went with the small,the standover on the med was a bit tall.we did have to position the seat back on the small

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  189. #389
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    My (re)Build Epic Evo Comp - Almost done - Keep it or the Ripley?

    As you can see, lots of changes from the Comp model and I've already swapped from a black StepCast 34 with gold accents on the bike to this new SID fork and new accent colors. Like others, this was intended to replace my hardtail (DV9), which it's done. It is so fun, light and capable that I am now trying to decide whether to keep my 2020 Ripley AXS build bike. This Epic Evo doesn't seem quite as capable as the Ripley, but there's way more overlap with the Ripley than I expected.

    I had the original tan Specialized GC & FT tires on it and liked them, but upgraded to MAXXIS tires today since I'm doing a longer, back-country trail ride tomorrow with lots of rocks. Still about 25lbs for a large. Really fun bike. I've done four rides so far that were smoother and more XC oriented (20+ miles each with 2500 - 3500ft). Tomorrow will be steeper and rougher terrain. I'll get to see how it really does in a place where the Ripley shines.


    2021 Epic EVO?-img_0734.jpg

    2021 Epic EVO?-img_0732.jpg

    2021 Epic EVO?-screen-shotevo.jpg

    2021 Epic EVO?-img_0731.jpg
    Last edited by akaktm; 17 Hours Ago at 09:40 PM. Reason: Additional content

  190. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaktm View Post
    As you can see, lots of changes from the Comp model...Still about 25lbs for a large.
    Iím surprised itís still that heavy with what appears to be carbon wheels, XTR crank, carbon bars, fork upgrade... seems like it be 22-23lbs.

  191. #391
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    @djr21589
    Yea, it's 25.01lbs and it is built very light-mostly. That 25lbs is with pedals and bottle cage. It is built with Roval Control SL wheels - very light!

    Getting rid of the Maxxis tires and going back to stock would get it to about 24. Then the only other significant options would be to get a lighter saddle (this one is 230g), and swap out the SLX brakes and derailleur. If I changed the tires, saddle and switched to XTR brakes and derailleur, it should be at about 23.6 or so. No way my biuld on a size large is hitting under 23 without crazy changes.

  192. #392
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    Looking for a large?
    Buyer charged tax for purchase unlike a Pinkbike sale. Most used Epic Evos were selling for full msrp on PB, FWIW.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/29385627618...p2471758.m4704

  193. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlsedition View Post
    I'm 5' 7" tall with a 29" inseam and bought a Medium. Works well for me.
    I'm 5' 7" on a medium. Curious: Did you change your stem length? Starting to change out the cockpit on my Comp. TIA!
    2021 Specialized Epic Evo Comp
    2018 Specialized Diverge Expert
    1993 Specialized Stumpjumper M2

  194. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Tilton View Post
    I'm 5' 7" on a medium. Curious: Did you change your stem length? Starting to change out the cockpit on my Comp. TIA!
    No, I've kept the standard stem length. I ride in SE Michigan where we don't have huge climbs/descents. Your area and requirements may vary.

  195. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by shred79 View Post
    My wife is 5'5" and went with the small,the standover on the med was a bit tall.we did have to position the seat back on the small

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    Excellent reminder! The standover on her current old Niner is a lot shorter than a small Epic Evo. She's had standstill crashes due to standover (and just bad decision making, ha) and the medium would surely be a crash-prone size.
    Thank you!

  196. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlsedition View Post
    No, I've kept the standard stem length. I ride in SE Michigan where we don't have huge climbs/descents. Your area and requirements may vary.
    I'm going to try 10mm shorter for DTE. Hopefully that helps fine tune for old school trails as well.

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  197. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    I'm going to try 10mm shorter for DTE. Hopefully that helps fine tune for old school trails as well.
    I rode DTE for the first time this season; what a flow trail! I've traveled over 60 miles each way from home to ride that one and will be doing it again next year.

  198. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlsedition View Post
    I rode DTE for the first time this season; what a flow trail! I've traveled over 60 miles each way from home to ride that one and will be doing it again next year.
    I'm fortunate. About 35 minutes on a good day. I've ridden it on quite a few different bikes. My favorites were my Fuse and my Stumpjumper. I'm getting the EVO close to the handling of the Stumpjumper. The EVO is of course lighter and faster, especially uphill. I'm 6' riding a large and working towards better berm speed without losing any traction on the light gravel and sand in some of those berms. Honestly, this bike feels amazing as is. I'd say I'll soon have it in the do-it-all category. I've been riding bikes for 57 years. I've waited a long time for a trail so cool. I am totally stoked to have a trail like DTE so close. Totally stoked to have a bike like the Epic EVO.

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  199. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash View Post
    I'm fortunate. About 35 minutes on a good day. I've ridden it on quite a few different bikes. My favorites were my Fuse and my Stumpjumper. I'm getting the EVO close to the handling of the Stumpjumper. The EVO is of course lighter and faster, especially uphill. I'm 6' riding a large and working towards better berm speed without losing any traction on the light gravel and sand in some of those berms. Honestly, this bike feels amazing as is. I'd say I'll soon have it in the do-it-all category. I've been riding bikes for 57 years. I've waited a long time for a trail so cool. I am totally stoked to have a trail like DTE so close. Totally stoked to have a bike like the Epic EVO.
    Couldn't agree with you more, about the trail and the bike! Best bike I've ever ridden. The only issue I have is at 72 years and in good shape I still get passed regularly by the youngsters (but I expect that).

  200. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlsedition View Post
    Couldn't agree with you more, about the trail and the bike! Best bike I've ever ridden. The only issue I have is at 72 years and in good shape I still get passed regularly by the youngsters (but I expect that).
    Wait, so there is another over 70 EVO rider in the area? I'm 61. They're is another 70's guy riding one too. We need to be careful. People will start calling the EVO the Buick of the MTB world.

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