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  1. #2201
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    Simple question which I cant find an answer for: My 29er 2017 came with a raceface direct mount 28tooth chain ring, am I correct in saying any chain ring which is raceface direct mount will be compatible from a chainring offset point of view? I cant for the stock chain ring find its offset or find them for other brands which make raceface direct mount chain rings. Dont want to waste money on a chainring to find it fudges up the chainline, I am still running the stock 11 gears.

  2. #2202
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    Simple question which I cant find an answer for: My 29er 2017 came with a raceface direct mount 28tooth chain ring, am I correct in saying any chain ring which is raceface direct mount will be compatible from a chainring offset point of view? I cant for the stock chain ring find its offset or find them for other brands which make raceface direct mount chain rings. Dont want to waste money on a chainring to find it fudges up the chainline, I am still running the stock 11 gears.
    Raceface with a 3mm offset is what you need.
    Denver, CO

  3. #2203
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehfour View Post
    Still loving the bike, dont care that its a 2017 and I dont have the latest Geo.

    My Enduro Comp 650B climbs amazingly and SLAYS the downs
    I'm on an E29 Comp. I think I wish I got the 27.5 instead, but I'm not really complaining. Sometimes the big wheels come in handy.

    I'm not saying it is the greatest bike going up or down, but it does a damn good job of it. Got in the top 5% of the first descent (13 miles, dropping 3000') without actually trying to go fast, just flowing. Technically I was the slowest person ever on the climb back up there. You know, out of the whole three people who have done it (on Strava of course):

    https://www.strava.com/activities/1446683718

    I'm pretty happy.

    I might get the updated part since it is so cheap. I'm not trying to invest any money in this bike as I primarily race XC, I just do all my XC training on the E29.

  4. #2204
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    sounds like you need to race Enduro...
    Denver, CO

  5. #2205
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    sounds like you need to race Enduro...
    I would, but I don't like the local format. WAY too much sitting around doing nothing. Way too few/short stages. If It was going to be an average of a 5000' day, I might be interested.

    Example, the last one I did, which while I wouldn't categorize as a race intended to be "bad ass enduro" but an event which does actually represent most of my local racing. It was a 17 mile day with 2500' of elevation. On top of that, MOST people were shuttling. And I was the only person to enter in the Open/Pro class.

    https://www.strava.com/activities/1178408199

    That was a month after getting the bike with about 10 rides total. I was JUST about to sign up for a race last year, I think it was the CES (California Enduro Series) event in Big Bear. 5 stages, guessing about 4000' day (maybe more, can't remember). Then I noticed it was TWO days. Three out of 5 stages would be lift served.

    So for now, this is my play bike.

  6. #2206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I would, but I don't like the local format. WAY too much sitting around doing nothing. Way too few/short stages. If It was going to be an average of a 5000' day, I might be interested.

    Example, the last one I did, which while I wouldn't categorize as a race intended to be "bad ass enduro" but an event which does actually represent most of my local racing. It was a 17 mile day with 2500' of elevation. On top of that, MOST people were shuttling. And I was the only person to enter in the Open/Pro class.

    https://www.strava.com/activities/1178408199

    That was a month after getting the bike with about 10 rides total. I was JUST about to sign up for a race last year, I think it was the CES (California Enduro Series) event in Big Bear. 5 stages, guessing about 4000' day (maybe more, can't remember). Then I noticed it was TWO days. Three out of 5 stages would be lift served.

    So for now, this is my play bike.
    Hmmmm so you like climbing... Don't sign up for an Enduro
    Denver, CO

  7. #2207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I would, but I don't like the local format. WAY too much sitting around doing nothing. Way too few/short stages. If It was going to be an average of a 5000' day, I might be interested.

    Example, the last one I did, which while I wouldn't categorize as a race intended to be "bad ass enduro" but an event which does actually represent most of my local racing. It was a 17 mile day with 2500' of elevation. On top of that, MOST people were shuttling. And I was the only person to enter in the Open/Pro class.

    https://www.strava.com/activities/1178408199

    That was a month after getting the bike with about 10 rides total. I was JUST about to sign up for a race last year, I think it was the CES (California Enduro Series) event in Big Bear. 5 stages, guessing about 4000' day (maybe more, can't remember). Then I noticed it was TWO days. Three out of 5 stages would be lift served.

    So for now, this is my play bike.
    That's pretty lame. I also race XC but do a couple Enduro's a year for fun. I don't really consider them racing though. It's just you against the clock/terrain. Real racing is mass start.

  8. #2208
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    That's pretty lame. I also race XC but do a couple Enduro's a year for fun. I don't really consider them racing though. It's just you against the clock/terrain. Real racing is mass start.
    I guess all those UCI downhillers like Gwin and Minnaars are doing it wrong too...
    Denver, CO

  9. #2209
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    It's just a time trial regardless of it being DH or on the road. A World Cup DH is toy town compared to races like the Mega. Even races like the EWS at Whistler, fun though it is, is nothing on some of the BC XC races like the Nimby 50 etc. Riding up for an hour with your pace being dictated by the guys around you and then riding an Enduro stage down on 120mm trail bikes. It's the shit.

  10. #2210
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    I don't think it is necessary to argue what format is, or is not racing. Just engage with the type you prefer.

    I really enjoy enduro style riding. Big climbs, but chunky downhills. That is just hard to find locally in a race.

    I think enduro could take something from XC though in class structure. In XC the lower cats don't typically race the same course as the higher cats. You might do 5 laps as a Pro/Cat 1, but only 3 for Cat 3. With enduro, everyone does the same thing. So the guys who are fast, powerful, and in great shape end up sitting around doing nothing waiting on the slower cats. If they had a bigger, more challenging event, like XC, it would draw me in. I'm not average in fitness, I don't expect everyone else to have fun in a 5k to 10k day, but I would be totally into it.

    For me, that means I will continue to race XC. But my XC bike almost only comes out of the garage for XC race day. The rest of the time I'm on my Enduro or my roadie. And on those enduro days, I am looking to use all that travel.
    Last edited by Sidewalk; 03-17-2018 at 12:35 PM.

  11. #2211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I don't think it is necessary to argue what format is, or is not racing. Just engage with the type you prefer.

    I really enjoy enduro style riding. Big climbs, but chunky downhills. That is just hard to find locally in a race.

    I think enduro could take something from XC though in class structure. In XC the lower cats don't typically race the same course as the higher cats. You might do 5 laps as a Pro/Cat 1, but only 3 for Cat 3. With enduro, everyone does the same thing. So the guys who are fast, powerful, and in great shape end up sitting around doing nothing waiting on the slower cats. If they had a bigger, more challenging event, like XC, it would draw me in. I'm not average in fitness, I don't expect everyone else to have fun in a 5k to 19k day, but I would be totally into it.

    For me, that means I will continue to race XC. But my XC bike almost only comes out of the garage for XC race day. The rest of the time I'm on my Enduro or my roadie. And on those enduro days, I am looking to use all that travel.
    I looked at your strava, you definitely put the miles in. Around here pro/open races first so they are never waiting. Bummer it isnít like that where you are.
    Denver, CO

  12. #2212
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwsteig View Post
    What are you '17/'18 owners using as a longer travel dropper post upgrade?
    Iíve got the 170mm reverb stealth in my large and it fits fine. If I remember right I donít have the ęconnectamajig*Ľ. Just the conventional connection, no biggie really.

    Iíve got a 32 inch inseam.

  13. #2213
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    *** Got my question answered ***

    I will need a new chainstay.

    Hi,

    First sorry about this post I'm sure its talked to death. I was reading this thread and understand you can swap the link on a 29er to 27.5. My question is. I have a 2017 27.5 and want to swap to 29er. Is that possible without getting a new rear triangle? Its an s-works size small.

  14. #2214
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    Anyone with a 2017 29er who has installed the 2018 yoke and link and found that peddle efficiency is a lot worse? Seat angle seems much slacker :-(

  15. #2215
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    yes a little bit , but the bike is more fun in descents with low bb and slacker HA
    i am always in Low here , but for technical trail you can switch in high ..
    for park and flow trail low settings is fine

  16. #2216
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Anyone with a 2017 29er who has installed the 2018 yoke and link and found that peddle efficiency is a lot worse? Seat angle seems much slacker :-(
    I haven't noticed anything different with the new linkage. Changes were negligible.

  17. #2217
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchieTolliver View Post
    I haven't noticed anything different with the new linkage. Changes were negligible.
    Strange. Mine is massively different. I am going to go back to running a bike yoke with offset bushing and original link.

    It was as confident on the downs but peddled way better...

  18. #2218
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    How hard of a swap is it? If I can easily swap back and forth I might go for it. But if it's a pain, I'd prefer a bike that can climb and descend as well as it does now. But for my shuttle trips, more descending ability sounds great.

  19. #2219
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    I'd be interested to know how the bike rides with the new linkage in low setting and a 170mm fork. I like the BB height right where it is but wouldn't mind a little extra travel with the fork- would the longer fork and lower setting cancel out for BB height and 29 wheels? I also run 27.5+ wheels on my Elite 29 occasionally- any lower BB than stock would be too much for the rocky climbing around here.

  20. #2220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuel53 View Post
    I'd be interested to know how the bike rides with the new linkage in low setting and a 170mm fork. I like the BB height right where it is but wouldn't mind a little extra travel with the fork- would the longer fork and lower setting cancel out for BB height and 29 wheels? I also run 27.5+ wheels on my Elite 29 occasionally- any lower BB than stock would be too much for the rocky climbing around here.
    I have mine setup with plus and 170mm fork, put's the bb in the sweet spot. Back on 29 it would be pretty high. The link would probably be worth while if your going to run a 170mm fork and switch back n forth

  21. #2221
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    Ttx

    So, had my first proper ride today and man, it was interesting.

    I am using the 548lbs spring, getting 29% sag with 1 turn of preload and man, it is firm. Even though there is noticeable amount of traction, specially climbing, the shock was bouncing crazy so had to back off the rebound in full. Since the shock feels so firm, I am not using any LSC & HSC, even for climbing.

    Getting it to balance with the Lyrik was also a challenge as I run it soft (same as I used to ride the STX). I had to re-set the fork's sag to 30% and 2 tokens and got substantial improvement. Rebound had to also be backed off a fair bit.

    I sessioned several sections of my trail for a fair bit changing settings, by the time I think I got it right, I was already tired so pull the pin.

    This is a very different experience from when I used to run coil in my DH bikes. I guess you need the extra support from the coil for when peddling up hill.

  22. #2222
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    It's interesting that they've increased the required spring rate. I'm on a 457 spring on my MY14 and am about 80kg (176lbs ish)

  23. #2223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    It's interesting that they've increased the required spring rate. I'm on a 457 spring on my MY14 and am about 80kg (176lbs ish)
    And my 548 must be correct if getting the 29% sag. I would like to try the lighter spring and see how it feels, but the sag no doubt will increase. Or I just lay off the booze! hahaha.

  24. #2224
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    I'm probably a touch over 30% but I have the next two spring weights up for shuttle days. Means I run more high and low speed with the softer spring.

  25. #2225
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    I have mine setup with plus and 170mm fork, put's the bb in the sweet spot. Back on 29 it would be pretty high. The link would probably be worth while if your going to run a 170mm fork and switch back n forth
    Maybe a worthwhile experiment- 170mm Lyrik airspring and Ď18 yoke could be had for less than $100 total.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by iguanabartola View Post
    So, had my first proper ride today and man, it was interesting.

    I am using the 548lbs spring, getting 29% sag with 1 turn of preload and man, it is firm. Even though there is noticeable amount of traction, specially climbing, the shock was bouncing crazy so had to back off the rebound in full. Since the shock feels so firm, I am not using any LSC & HSC, even for climbing.

    Getting it to balance with the Lyrik was also a challenge as I run it soft (same as I used to ride the STX). I had to re-set the fork's sag to 30% and 2 tokens and got substantial improvement. Rebound had to also be backed off a fair bit.

    I sessioned several sections of my trail for a fair bit changing settings, by the time I think I got it right, I was already tired so pull the pin.

    This is a very different experience from when I used to run coil in my DH bikes. I guess you need the extra support from the coil for when peddling up hill.
    Iím curious how you can run 30% sag on the fork an not bottom out. What is your method for measuring that?

    I will bounce up and down on my bike a few times, and then sit in a neutral position, and record the sag there. This is what I was getting from my fork. Looks around 10-15 percent if you ask me.

  27. #2227
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    That looks like ten mm of sag?

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    Quote Originally Posted by RBoardman View Post
    Iím curious how you can run 30% sag on the fork an not bottom out. What is your method for measuring that?

    I will bounce up and down on my bike a few times, and then sit in a neutral position, and record the sag there. This is what I was getting from my fork. Looks around 10-15 percent if you ask me.
    Hi Mate, similar process as yours, but I sit a bit more forward, attack position type of thing and get the 30% spot on. I am on the Lyriks though, not the RFX. The 2 tokens assist with the bottoming out massively.

    Agree, your sag looks way to low, how is the RFX on the trail with that sag? Racer style =)

  29. #2229
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    2017 Specialized Enduro

    Quote Originally Posted by iguanabartola View Post
    Hi Mate, similar process as yours, but I sit a bit more forward, attack position type of thing and get the 30% spot on. I am on the Lyriks though, not the RFX. The 2 tokens assist with the bottoming out massively.

    Agree, your sag looks way to low, how is the RFX on the trail with that sag? Racer style =)
    After remeasuring and seating in a more forward "attack position", I got about 20mm of sag (12.5% on a 160mm fork).

    I already run the bottom out air chamber much higher that the recommended value. (Not sure off the top of my head). I wish you could put tokens in it like the rockshox/fox forks. So I wouldn't have to worry about if has leaked air since the last time I rode.

    I run the LS compression in the middle, and I think my rebound is somewhere in the middle too.

    So far I have not been a big fan of this fork. (And I dislike the STX shock even more) It works for me, and I'm not sure if I'll swap it out or not (because of $$$), but I think other brands make a superior product. I feel like the initial stroke is too stiff. Over chatter and small bumps it is not plush at all. I haven't got much of a chance to test it in the rocks yet, Santa Cruz lacks those.
    And then one you start hitting the larger impacts it isn't firm (progressive?) enough and plows through the travel pretty easily. As you can see I'm running my fork pretty stiff, and still using all the travel on almost every descent. If I let out any air it would definitely bottom out too often.

    I'm only 150lbs. I would say I'm a fairly aggressive rider that searches out the steepest most DH oriented trails I can find.

  30. #2230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    I'm probably a touch over 30% but I have the next two spring weights up for shuttle days. Means I run more high and low speed with the softer spring.
    So you run the heavier springs for Downhill days? Why not the 457? with the higher sag you would be getting more traction i would think, or to muh bottoming out?

  31. #2231
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBoardman View Post
    After remeasuring and seating in a more forward "attack position", I got about 20mm of sag (12.5% on a 160mm fork).

    I already run the bottom out air chamber much higher that the recommended value. (Not sure off the top of my head). I wish you could put tokens in it like the rockshox/fox forks. So I wouldn't have to worry about if has leaked air since the last time I rode.

    I run the LS compression in the middle, and I think my rebound is somewhere in the middle too.

    So far I have not been a big fan of this fork. (And I dislike the STX shock even more) It works for me, and I'm not sure if I'll swap it out or not (because of $$$), but I think other brands make a superior product. I feel like the initial stroke is too stiff. Over chatter and small bumps it is not plush at all. I haven't got much of a chance to test it in the rocks yet, Santa Cruz lacks those.
    And then one you start hitting the larger impacts it isn't firm (progressive?) enough and plows through the travel pretty easily. As you can see I'm running my fork pretty stiff, and still using all the travel on almost every descent. If I let out any air it would definitely bottom out too often.

    I'm only 150lbs. I would say I'm a fairly aggressive rider that searches out the steepest most DH oriented trails I can find.
    That sag looks more accurate if you were sitting in attack position. Still pretty firm though, what does Ohlins recommends?

    A mate has the same fork on his Stumpy and he is not fan either. Very similar feedback to yours and he is the only person I know with an RFX. Is the fork also losing air?

    Ohlins should stick to what they know best, coil, and just scrap the air product all together. My STX was a nightmare and got blown over 5 times hence why I got given the TTX as replacement.

  32. #2232
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    After 13 months of hard use and not always being well cleaned or lubed the chainring, cassette and chain need replacing as do the main pivots and bottom bracket as they now have play in them.

    Getting the main pivots replaced via a shop today and have sourced all the other parts to go on, I've even opted to replace the jockey wheels with some shiny blue alloy ones. Hopefully the bike will feel like new again once this stuff goes on!

    I'm thinking of replacing my chain every 6 months instead of waiting for the entire drivetrain to wear out again. Does anyone else do this and does it actually help extend the life of the cassette and chainrings?

  33. #2233
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    After 13 months of hard use and not always being well cleaned or lubed the chainring, cassette and chain need replacing as do the main pivots and bottom bracket as they now have play in them.

    Getting the main pivots replaced via a shop today and have sourced all the other parts to go on, I've even opted to replace the jockey wheels with some shiny blue alloy ones. Hopefully the bike will feel like new again once this stuff goes on!

    I'm thinking of replacing my chain every 6 months instead of waiting for the entire drivetrain to wear out again. Does anyone else do this and does it actually help extend the life of the cassette and chainrings?
    Yes I replace chains every 6 months or if they are worn earlier (check with a chain guage tool every time I do maint on the bike.

    Iíve still got a X01 cassette from my 2014 capra running as good as new....

  34. #2234
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    I'm thinking of replacing my chain every 6 months instead of waiting for the entire drivetrain to wear out again. Does anyone else do this and does it actually help extend the life of the cassette and chainrings?
    Yeah mate, best way to do it. Had my 2013 Endo with the same XX1 cassette and chain ring for 4 years. I measured the chain every now and then and replaced at 0.75.

    I am now on a 2017 model and the XX1 Eagle is lasting far more longer. After a solid year of riding, chain hasnít even got to 0.50! Iím very impressed with how durable it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    After 13 months of hard use and not always being well cleaned or lubed the chainring, cassette and chain need replacing as do the main pivots and bottom bracket as they now have play in them.

    Getting the main pivots replaced via a shop today and have sourced all the other parts to go on, I've even opted to replace the jockey wheels with some shiny blue alloy ones. Hopefully the bike will feel like new again once this stuff goes on!

    I'm thinking of replacing my chain every 6 months instead of waiting for the entire drivetrain to wear out again. Does anyone else do this and does it actually help extend the life of the cassette and chainrings?

    Question for you; How are you washing your bike? or are you? Curious what you did to wear out your pivot bearings so quickly?

  36. #2236
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehfour View Post
    Question for you; How are you washing your bike? or are you? Curious what you did to wear out your pivot bearings so quickly?
    13 months of hard use is quick?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ehfour View Post
    Question for you; How are you washing your bike? or are you? Curious what you did to wear out your pivot bearings so quickly?
    Brushes and garden hose mainly with some use of muc off. Occasionally there were times I didnít wash it and just wiped and lubed the chain at the beginning of the next ride.

    The bikes been ridden 3-4 times a week, quite hard Iíd say (good size jumps, drops and rowdy terrain) and in all weathers here in the UK. I thought 13 months for the main pivot was okay myself! How long have yours lasted?

  38. #2238
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    I end up replacing the main and chainstay bearings on my '14 almost twice a year, and I take 3 months off in the Winter ! I never use water, I let it dry and then brush the dirt off.
    Although when it was brand new I got 15 months out of them.

  39. #2239
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    That's interesting, perhaps I don't ride as hard as others, I've got a 14, and I've only replaced one bearing when it creaked.
    But I'd be lucky to ride 1000km per year. There's no slop or play and none of the bearings are notchy.

  40. #2240
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    Brushes and garden hose mainly with some use of muc off. Occasionally there were times I didnít wash it and just wiped and lubed the chain at the beginning of the next ride.

    The bikes been ridden 3-4 times a week, quite hard Iíd say (good size jumps, drops and rowdy terrain) and in all weathers here in the UK. I thought 13 months for the main pivot was okay myself! How long have yours lasted?
    Mine are still going. No play or know in them, rode through winter in the PNW and so far so good

    Good to know that Ill be looking to do them at the end of this season

  41. #2241
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    FYI - For those yet to replace them,the code on the bearings which came out of my main pivot are: 6802v 2rs. I only replaced the two in the main pivot as the rest were okay.

    I had the shop replace these, does anyone know which bearing puller I'd need to replace these myself next time?

  42. #2242
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    Iíve got a brand new v2 enduro yoke to convert a 2017 to 2018 for 650b if anyone wants it in Europe. Cost me £50, will let it go for £35 plus postage. PM me.

  43. #2243
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    I'm picking up a 17 S works next week. what Settings are people using on the fork?
    I weigh 190lbs kitted up.

  44. #2244
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    Anyone knows of or has bought aftermarket headset or internal bearings for the headset of they Enduro 17/18?

    Anyone knows of the bearing specifications as well?

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

  45. #2245
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    After 13 months of hard use and not always being well cleaned or lubed the chainring, cassette and chain need replacing as do the main pivots and bottom bracket as they now have play in them.

    Getting the main pivots replaced via a shop today and have sourced all the other parts to go on, I've even opted to replace the jockey wheels with some shiny blue alloy ones. Hopefully the bike will feel like new again once this stuff goes on!

    I'm thinking of replacing my chain every 6 months instead of waiting for the entire drivetrain to wear out again. Does anyone else do this and does it actually help extend the life of the cassette and chainrings?
    Expect a lot of noise from the jockey wheels... no bueno in my books, the xx1's eagle ceramic $60-80 replacement kits is pretty sweet, i do that once a year and then i have spares.

  46. #2246
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Iíve got a brand new v2 enduro yoke to convert a 2017 to 2018 for 650b if anyone wants it in Europe. Cost me £50, will let it go for £35 plus postage. PM me.
    Thats no true, the physical frame is different too on the 650bs. On the 29er it is just the hardware,

  47. #2247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Druster View Post
    Anyone knows of or has bought aftermarket headset or internal bearings for the headset of they Enduro 17/18?

    Anyone knows of the bearing specifications as well?
    I haven't replaced those, but the spec is in the manual, which is here:
    https://media.specialized.com/suppor...0072787_R1.pdf

    From page 2 of that manual:

    Specialized carbon frames use a 1 1/8Ē (41.8mm x 8mm x 45į) Campagnolo Standard compatible top and 1.5Ē (52mm x 7mm x 45į) bottom bearing, except Demo frames which use a 1.5Ē diameter headset, top and bottom. Ensure that replacement bearings are compatible with the Specialized headset specification. No tools are needed for installation or removal of both bearings. Grease bearing surfaces before installation.

  48. #2248
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    Anyone enjoying riding the 29 as 650b+? Haven't tried it yet. I was wondering if 2.6 or 2.8 would be tall enough to still enjoy it as a trail bike, too many pedal strikes. Or if it would make the bike more fun. I like chunky trails, and pedal to the top.

  49. #2249
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    I have a 27.5+ hardtail and swap the wheels occasionally. I have tried all variations (29 rear, + front and vice versa)- no real benefit for the mismatch vs match sets. Its fun and has its applications but overall I like the 29" hoops on the Enduro better. + wheels (I have WTB Scraper i45 with WTB Ranger 3.0s) are heavy and you can feel it on the climbs obviously, but you also have to increase the PSI when coming off the hardtail which is a pain. With all plus tires PSI is key- too low pressure and they feel very vague when you combine the tire squish and bike travel. Next time I do a big downhill shuttle or hit Snow Summit I will try the + wheels- feels like extra travel, the wheels are stiffer than the Rovals, very slightly lower BB and the grip is outstanding- basically a downhill bike at that point.

  50. #2250
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    I was thinking of putting 2.6 or 2.8's on. But I didn't know if it would drop the BB too much. I don't want too soft of tires.

  51. #2251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I was thinking of putting 2.6 or 2.8's on. But I didn't know if it would drop the BB too much. I don't want too soft of tires.
    I have plus with the 2018 link, bb is low but no more strikes then any other bike. Plus is super fun, I have the carbon roval 38s with 2.8's. 29er way faster though

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  52. #2252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I was thinking of putting 2.6 or 2.8's on. But I didn't know if it would drop the BB too much. I don't want too soft of tires.
    Broke out the tape measure. 3.0 wheels are 28 3/4" diameter. Also have a pair of wheels with Hans Dampf 2.8s that are 28 5/8" in diameter at the highest knob- so that's roughly 0.18" or 1/5" of BB drop with 2.8s. I really don't notice additional pedal strikes with the 1/4" drop but I get a fair share with the 29s. I always wondered those numbers myself.- you can tell it's lower but it's pretty miniscule.

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  53. #2253
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    Thanks for the input. I have Flow's on my old trail bike that I was going to weight weenie out for XCM riding. I might take those and lace them up and put some 2.8's on them. Not in a rush, but sounds like it's worth the experiment!

  54. #2254
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    Ok Iím lost in my suspension settings and need a baseline.

    Ive got a Ď17 enduro with 2018 Fox 36 RC2, Fox X2 rear. 195lbs. Ive been going back and forth with the settings and just cant get it to feel good. It feels harsh on the small bumps up front and wont ever get full travel. Whereas in the rear it blows through travel but feels decent in the small bumps.

    Anyone got a starting point for me? Iíve gone back to the stock settings quite a few times and just can't find the sweet spot.

    Thanks in advance!

  55. #2255
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    Brushes and garden hose mainly with some use of muc off. Occasionally there were times I didnít wash it and just wiped and lubed the chain at the beginning of the next ride.

    The bikes been ridden 3-4 times a week, quite hard Iíd say (good size jumps, drops and rowdy terrain) and in all weathers here in the UK. I thought 13 months for the main pivot was okay myself! How long have yours lasted?
    Volume spacers!!!

  56. #2256
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    Ok Iím lost in my suspension settings and need a baseline.

    Ive got a Ď17 enduro with 2018 Fox 36 RC2, Fox X2 rear. 195lbs. Ive been going back and forth with the settings and just cant get it to feel good. It feels harsh on the small bumps up front and wont ever get full travel. Whereas in the rear it blows through travel but feels decent in the small bumps.

    Anyone got a starting point for me? Iíve gone back to the stock settings quite a few times and just can't find the sweet spot.

    Thanks in advance!
    I just got a 18 E29 with the same suspension. I only have one ride. Iíll keep you posted. I had the fork set at the factory recommended setting and it felt exactly like you said yours felt. I let out 10 psi and it was money. I donít like to mess with too many variables at once. I did notice I needed higher psi than fox factory reccimendation in the shock to get proper sag. I think I still need to add more. It felt super plush on the downs but the bike didnít feel as snappy as my gen 1 E29 with a CC Inline IL. Overall I was happy with my first ride.

    I hope more people will chime in. I weigh the same as you.

  57. #2257
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    Quote Originally Posted by k-addicted View Post
    I just got a 18 E29 with the same suspension. I only have one ride. Iíll keep you posted. I had the fork set at the factory recommended setting and it felt exactly like you said yours felt. I let out 10 psi and it was money. I donít like to mess with too many variables at once. I did notice I needed higher psi than fox factory reccimendation in the shock to get proper sag. I think I still need to add more. It felt super plush on the downs but the bike didnít feel as snappy as my gen 1 E29 with a CC Inline IL. Overall I was happy with my first ride.

    I hope more people will chime in. I weigh the same as you.
    Cool thanks! Iíll try a little less air and keep tinkering. Iím coming off a Lyrik which was super plush.

  58. #2258
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    Cool thanks! Iíll try a little less air and keep tinkering. Iím coming off a Lyrik which was super plush.
    I have a Lyrik upfront so can't help with the fork but I have the Fox X2 shock and after a lot of messing around I am running the following:

    187 lbs (fairly aggressive rider):
    235 PSI = 33% sag
    - 12 clicks LSR
    - 12 clicks HSR
    - 18 clicks LSC
    - 14 clicks HSC
    **from fully closed**

    I may add one of two clicks on the HSR or LSR depending on what I'm riding but this feels pretty good for 98% of my rides.

  59. #2259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Why_Not31 View Post
    I have a Lyrik upfront so can't help with the fork but I have the Fox X2 shock and after a lot of messing around I am running the following:

    187 lbs (fairly aggressive rider):
    235 PSI = 33% sag
    - 12 clicks LSR
    - 12 clicks HSR
    - 18 clicks LSC
    - 14 clicks HSC
    **from fully closed**

    I may add one of two clicks on the HSR or LSR depending on what I'm riding but this feels pretty good for 98% of my rides.
    Great thanks for the tip!

  60. #2260
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    Thanks again for this, the shock is waaaaaaay better than it was. So many adjustments; it`s easy to get lost in there. I`m running that exact setup but with 225 psi and it seems spot on.

  61. #2261
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    Quote Originally Posted by k-addicted View Post
    I just got a 18 E29 with the same suspension. I only have one ride. Iíll keep you posted. I had the fork set at the factory recommended setting and it felt exactly like you said yours felt. I let out 10 psi and it was money. I donít like to mess with too many variables at once. I did notice I needed higher psi than fox factory reccimendation in the shock to get proper sag. I think I still need to add more. It felt super plush on the downs but the bike didnít feel as snappy as my gen 1 E29 with a CC Inline IL. Overall I was happy with my first ride.

    I hope more people will chime in. I weigh the same as you.
    It seems the 10 psi less pressure was the ticket. Thanks again!

  62. #2262
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    I'm considering a new rear shock for my 17 E29. Any feed back for a 210LB aggressive rider?

    I've been looking at the DHX2 Coil with BikeYoke or an X2 Air with BikeYoke.

    I have been fine with the RS Monarch Plus. However, it's been rebuilt twice and is gradually losing air again, roughly 10PSI per ride.... I pressurize to 225 for a 25% Sag.

    What benefits would I gain with the X2 200x57?

  63. #2263
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchieTolliver View Post
    I'm considering a new rear shock for my 17 E29. Any feed back for a 210LB aggressive rider?

    I've been looking at the DHX2 Coil with BikeYoke or an X2 Air with BikeYoke.

    I have been fine with the RS Monarch Plus. However, it's been rebuilt twice and is gradually losing air again, roughly 10PSI per ride.... I pressurize to 225 for a 25% Sag.

    What benefits would I gain with the X2 200x57?
    They make a direct fit x2

  64. #2264
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    They make a direct fit x2
    Roger that, I came across a deal for a BikeYoke. It gives me a few more options. I am most curious about the Fox Shocks at the moment. Also considering a Jade and CC Coil....

  65. #2265
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchieTolliver View Post
    Roger that, I came across a deal for a BikeYoke. It gives me a few more options. I am most curious about the Fox Shocks at the moment. Also considering a Jade and CC Coil....
    The float x2 will become cavitated quickly if you are a heavier aggressive rider. Know 2 different people that would blow out those shocks frequently on the Enduro.

  66. #2266
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    That's probably why the 2019 are slightly different with a max pressure of 300psi and a few other tweaks. I loved the X2 on my 2014, was bummed to learn it would fit on my 2017.

  67. #2267
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    So my ohlins stx had the air leak. Specialized offered to get me any shock I want depending what my shop can get. I donít think the TTX is available. Iím thinking the fox x2? Or maybe try a coil rockshox? Any opinions let me know. The x2 seems popular on the enduro. Iím only 150lbs weight.

  68. #2268
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    The Fox x2 is great on this and the prior Enduro. I wasn't aware that rockshox made a coil with a specialized mount.

  69. #2269
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    Quote Originally Posted by fullmoto View Post
    So my ohlins stx had the air leak. Specialized offered to get me any shock I want depending what my shop can get. I donít think the TTX is available. Iím thinking the fox x2? Or maybe try a coil rockshox? Any opinions let me know. The x2 seems popular on the enduro. Iím only 150lbs weight.
    I got the TTX but had to chase Specialized heavily. After close to 8 months waiting,I ended up by-passing them and contacting Ohlins directly. The shock is fantastic IMO.

  70. #2270
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyIvan View Post
    The Fox x2 is great on this and the prior Enduro. I wasn't aware that rockshox made a coil with a specialized mount.
    I'm guessing you'd have to put a Bike Yoke link on it to make it work. Specialized looks to be going away from their previous type links with the new Stumpjumper line, and I hope the Enduro follows. I'm going to be adding a Bike Yoke to my 2017 Enduro so I can use a different shock.

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  71. #2271
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Iíve got a brand new v2 enduro yoke to convert a 2017 to 2018 for 650b if anyone wants it in Europe. Cost me £50, will let it go for £35 plus postage. PM me.
    Do you still have it.

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  72. #2272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fx1 View Post
    Do you still have it.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
    No, Long gone sorry.

    Anyone know when the 2019 versions are out - new colours etc?

    I quite fancy trying a 650b version out but the blue s-works frame or pink expert bike isn't really my cup of tea

  73. #2273
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    I'm waiting on news of the 2019 frames too. I was told by my LBS that Spesh are no longer releasing all their bikes in Sept and instead are doing selective releases throughout the year. They obviously released the stumpy out of sync so it's possible that other releases will also appear sporadically. One upside of this is that it might stop bikes from dating as much (e.g. that's a 2017 colour etc)?

  74. #2274
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    Quote Originally Posted by j3ffdoran View Post
    I'm waiting on news of the 2019 frames too. I was told by my LBS that Spesh are no longer releasing all their bikes in Sept and instead are doing selective releases throughout the year. They obviously released the stumpy out of sync so it's possible that other releases will also appear sporadically. One upside of this is that it might stop bikes from dating as much (e.g. that's a 2017 colour etc)?
    Im picking up a demo 2018 Enduro 650b Elite tomorrow for a week from a Specialized concept store so will do some digging.

  75. #2275
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    enduro yoke v2 - washer position

    Got a new v2 enduro yoke for my Enduro 2017. While installing it, I messed up with the positions of the different spacers / washers. Anyone could give me a hand to figure this out?

  76. #2276
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    Just a heads up there is now a recall on our RXF forks. No solution has been posted yet.
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/safety-notices

  77. #2277
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyIvan View Post
    Just a heads up there is now a recall on our RXF forks. No solution has been posted yet.
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/safety-notices
    Fortunately "Please note that other ÷hlins Forks, such as the RXF 36 Coil forks, are unaffected by this notice."

  78. #2278
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    Posted about my recent STX->TTX switch, but I put it in the 2018 Enduro thread. I have a 2017 SW E29 with 2018/V2 linkage/yoke and now the 2018 TTX.

  79. #2279
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    Been running the 2018 fox x2 on my 2017 enduro the last month. Didnít notice when installing, but just did that the top part of the shock grazes my frame ever so slightly and took a tiny bit of paint off. Is this normal ? Is the 2018 fox x2 suppose to fit that tight ? Also this was the enduro specific x2 shock
    Last edited by fullmoto; 09-29-2018 at 09:29 PM.

  80. #2280
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    Hey guys.... picked up a used 2017 Enduro Comp 29'er last week. It was used, but in great condition. This is my first full-sus bike after riding a season on a fat bike and then a season on a 27.5+ hardtail (which I still have).

    I got a ride on it at my local trails this past weekend and I loved it... it may not climb like an XC bike, but I made it through all of the tough climbs at my local trail spot and the descents were wicked fun. I was using the stock 29x2.3 Butcher/Slaughter combo, but last nigh I mounted a 29x2.6 Butcher/Purgatory combo.


  81. #2281
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrankAddictRich View Post
    Hey guys.... picked up a used 2017 Enduro Comp 29'er last week. It was used, but in great condition. This is my first full-sus bike after riding a season on a fat bike and then a season on a 27.5+ hardtail (which I still have).

    I got a ride on it at my local trails this past weekend and I loved it... it may not climb like an XC bike, but I made it through all of the tough climbs at my local trail spot and the descents were wicked fun. I was using the stock 29x2.3 Butcher/Slaughter combo, but last nigh I mounted a 29x2.6 Butcher/Purgatory combo.

    That's a nice bike. It'll last you a long time and will help your riding skills improve, cause the can handle just about anything. I have a 2017 27.5 comp and I'm still learning what the bike is capable of doing. Enjoy

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  82. #2282
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    Still riding my '17 E29. I swapped to a double Butcher combo (2.6/2.3).

  83. #2283
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    2012 Fox VAN RC Shock 8.5" x 2.5"

    I realize this probably won't work but....

    Using a BikeYoke , is there any way a 8.5" x 2.5" Fox VAN RC Rear Shock would work w/ a 2017 Enduro 29?

    From the BikeYoke website ....
    "Compatible shock length:
    8.25"x2.16" (210x55) with Yoke #7"

    So the length and stroke exceed by .25" and .34.

    Also there is the issue of leverage ratio and the vertical height of the shock (which is 90mm) Would it even fit in the frame? See pic.
    2017 Specialized Enduro-vanrc.height.jpg

    FYI : The coil is 2.75" x 450#
    Rider weight is 210lbs.

    thanks.

  84. #2284
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchieTolliver View Post
    I'm considering a new rear shock for my 17 E29. Any feed back for a 210LB aggressive rider?
    Please tell me what shock you settled on for your weight and riding style.
    thanks.
    I'm open to using a BikeYoke.

  85. #2285
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    I realize this probably won't work but....

    Using a BikeYoke , is there any way a 8.5" x 2.5" Fox VAN RC Rear Shock would work w/ a 2017 Enduro 29?
    thanks.
    If you bought the BikeYoke for 650B version of your bike, you may get away with it?
    On the slightly older bikes, the 29er had a longer yoke than the 650B bikes. Could be worth looking into?
    There should be a few coil options that will bolt in with the Specialized yoke.

  86. #2286
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    Anyone seen the new MRP progressive coil yet? Could be a great solution for running a coil shock on the linear Enduro. I have a cane creek db cs that I'm thinking about trying this out on. I'm 200# fully geared and the shock currently has a 604# ohlins spring, but bottoms way to easily. Going to try the 550/650# MRP. Word is they should be released end of November.

  87. #2287
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    Gotten in a few more rides with my Enduro... loving it.

  88. #2288
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike0012 View Post
    Anyone seen the new MRP progressive coil yet? Could be a great solution for running a coil shock on the linear Enduro. I have a cane creek db cs that I'm thinking about trying this out on. I'm 200# fully geared and the shock currently has a 604# ohlins spring, but bottoms way to easily. Going to try the 550/650# MRP. Word is they should be released end of November.
    Im curious

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    Got my first ride in on my new Push 11-6 yesterday!

    First impressions are quite good. With some minor tweaking I should get to that sweet spot ASAP. It's pretty close already. If anything, I find the Lyrik a bit undergunned now and may have to increase spring rate in the front to match. Time will tell.

    The 11-6 seems to ride noticeable higher in the travel compared to the Float X2 I was running before. I have a lot of time on that damper on multiple bikes.

    The new shock just needs a real beat down to find the limits.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Specialized Enduro-img_0324.jpg  

    2017 Specialized Enduro-img_0305.jpg  

    2017 Specialized Enduro-img_0304.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    Got my first ride in on my new Push 11-6 yesterday!

    First impressions are quite good. With some minor tweaking I should get to that sweet spot ASAP. It's pretty close already. If anything, I find the Lyrik a bit undergunned now and may have to increase spring rate in the front to match. Time will tell.

    The 11-6 seems to ride noticeable higher in the travel compared to the Float X2 I was running before. I have a lot of time on that damper on multiple bikes.

    The new shock just needs a real beat down to find the limits.
    Though they didn't recommend nor were making a coil for the enduro?

  91. #2291
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    Though they didn't recommend nor were making a coil for the enduro?
    Weird. It rides pretty well! Seems this one is indeed for a '16 and older. Whoops!
    Last edited by partswhore; 11-05-2018 at 11:54 AM.

  92. #2292
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    They've been available since at least January but I've yet to see one other than mine in the wild, on an Enduro. I wish the Specialized mount was black instead of silver but it's a minor detail.

    Push certainly seem to have changed their opinion on the Enduro.
    Interesting

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  93. #2293
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    They've been available since at least January but I've yet to see one other than mine in the wild, on an Enduro.

    Push certainly seem to have changed their opinion on the Enduro.
    It will be interesting to see how you find it, what is your riding weight and the spring weight on the 11/6?

  94. #2294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    It will be interesting to see how you find it, what is your riding weight and the spring weight on the 11/6?
    Ah damnit, you guys were totally right. Not recommended for this version of Enduro. To the sale bin it goes!

    Bummer, seemed to ride quite well but doesn't technically fit the link quite right and with the regressive rate of the Enduro it doesn't work terribly well at full travel.

    I might tinker with it a bit more though.

  95. #2295
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    Update.

    The '16 Push shock mount can apparently be machined so it sits properly in the yoke. I'll have to investigate this option before fire sale.

    Ohlins make a coil shock for this bike so I can't see why this 11/6 cannot work.

    To the garage to make metal on the floor! Or maybe I'll use the lathe at work...

  96. #2296
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    The bandolier of shocks I've got for this bike at this point.

    I've machined the 11/6 to fit (not pictured). Didn't even take a whole beer! Only an area 2mm x9mm x 9mm.

    Extremely minor but Push doesn't like it and it voids the warranty. Meh. It was already a paperweight otherwise. They absolutely do not support this shock on this bike. Oh well.

    Looking over the leverage ratio numbers, they are so close to the '16 and older Enduro, I'm hopeful the shock performs well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Specialized Enduro-img_0341.jpg  

    2017 Specialized Enduro-img_0340.jpg  


  97. #2297
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post


    The bandolier of shocks I've got for this bike at this point.

    I've machined the 11/6 to fit (not pictured). Didn't even take a whole beer! Only an area 2mm x9mm x 9mm.

    Extremely minor but Push doesn't like it and it voids the warranty. Meh. It was already a paperweight otherwise. They absolutely do not support this shock on this bike. Oh well.

    Looking over the leverage ratio numbers, they are so close to the '16 and older Enduro, I'm hopeful the shock performs well.
    That's a very different yoke shape actually. I too have a collection
    Fox CTD (now gone)
    Monarch Plus
    Cane Creek DB Inline
    ÷hlins TTX
    To be honest the TTX is so good I only put the others on when it's being serviced

  98. #2298
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    That's a very different yoke shape actually. I too have a collection
    Fox CTD (now gone)
    Monarch Plus
    Cane Creek DB Inline
    ÷hlins TTX
    To be honest the TTX is so good I only put the others on when it's being serviced
    I didn't snap a pic of the minor amount of material required to be removed but it really is very little. If you ever look inside the yoke you'll see what I mean.

    The only part that matters (I think) is the now square part where the bolt threads in.

    This frame actually came with the TTX but I swapped it out right at the start and sold it over a year ago. THAT was a mistake.

    The Float X2 is quite good but it could be better. The Ohlins air is dead (POS) and the Monarch was my spare for extended holidays away from service centers.

  99. #2299
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    I didn't snap a pic of the minor amount of material required to be removed but it really is very little. If you ever look inside the yoke you'll see what I mean.

    The only part that matters (I think) is the now square part where the bolt threads in.

    This frame actually came with the TTX but I swapped it out right at the start and sold it over a year ago. THAT was a mistake.

    The Float X2 is quite good but it could be better. The Ohlins air is dead (POS) and the Monarch was my spare for extended holidays away from service centers.
    Contact ohlins they will give u a new one

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  100. #2300
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    Got a few days in smashing on the 11/6.

    So far so good! Definitely rides higher in the travel than the Float x2. I`ve got approx 31-33% sag.

    The shock really eats the rough, in fact it demands it.

    Transitions and hard compressions at the bottom of steep rock faces are super smooth now. Also the small bump is spot on, with excellent traction even in the wet November Squamish conditions prevalent at the moment.

  101. #2301
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    Got a few days in smashing on the 11/6.

    So far so good! Definitely rides higher in the travel than the Float x2. I`ve got approx 31-33% sag.

    The shock really eats the rough, in fact it demands it.

    Transitions and hard compressions at the bottom of steep rock faces are super smooth now. Also the small bump is spot on, with excellent traction even in the wet November Squamish conditions prevalent at the moment.
    Oh so push makes 11/6s for Spez Enduro 18s now?

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

  102. #2302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Druster View Post
    Oh so push makes 11/6s for Spez Enduro 18s now?

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
    Scroll back one week.

  103. #2303
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    Quote Originally Posted by Druster View Post
    Oh so push makes 11/6s for Spez Enduro 18s now?

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
    No, I accidentally ordered this one in error and made it work. Easy mod!

  104. #2304
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    If that's a 2017 Enduro (which I assume it is since you're posting in this thread), there are some other options you might consider. If it's a 29er you can order the 2018 yoke/link combo. Should be cheap, I think mine was around $60.

    The new yoke is slightly shorter which will lower the BB and slacken the front. However, it also includes a "flip chip" which is really just a square washer that goes into the yoke between the end of the shock mount and the screw. This effectively lengthens the eye-to-eye back out to the original 2017 length, so you now have 2 options. Note that if you use the washer, then the only part of the shock mount at that end that is actually contacting the end of the yoke is that square part that is the same size as the washer, and the rest of the end of the mount no longer sits flush with the yoke, which looks kinda janky. In your previous pic of all your other shocks, note that the yoke end mount really only has a small square area that contacts the end of the yoke. Those shocks will all work with the yoke from 2016 and earlier, as well as the redesigned 2017/2018 ones. For whatever reason, Push made their mount take up the whole rectangular area there, which is why you had to modify it for the 2017 yoke. Actually you coulda just put a 2mm thick washer in there and probably wouldn't have noticed a difference, but since you have access to machining tools... Anyway, with the new yoke you'll have a couple BB height/HTA options to play with.

    The new link is a slightly different shape from the 2017 one, so it alters the leverage rate to make it slightly more progressive (or less regressive as the case may be). Whether or not that change is actually noticeable is up for debate, there was plenty of discussion on the 2018 Enduro thread, so YMMV. What's not debatable is it is definitely a different shape, so it can't NOT affect the leverage rate at least in some way. BTW, it seems the travel drops a tad to 160mm with that link vs. 165 with the original. Anyway, that would give you another thing to play with when dialing in your shock.

    I'm running the TTX and don't feel like I'm blowing through the travel or bottoming out more than usual, so at this point I'm fine with the 2017 leverage rate. I've been thinking about running the 2018 yoke in low mode with the 2017 link, haven't gotten around to trying it yet though.

  105. #2305
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    If that's a 2017 Enduro (which I assume it is since you're posting in this thread), there are some other options you might consider. If it's a 29er you can order the 2018 yoke/link combo. Should be cheap, I think mine was around $60.

    The new yoke is slightly shorter which will lower the BB and slacken the front. However, it also includes a "flip chip" which is really just a square washer that goes into the yoke between the end of the shock mount and the screw. This effectively lengthens the eye-to-eye back out to the original 2017 length, so you now have 2 options. Note that if you use the washer, then the only part of the shock mount at that end that is actually contacting the end of the yoke is that square part that is the same size as the washer, and the rest of the end of the mount no longer sits flush with the yoke, which looks kinda janky. In your previous pic of all your other shocks, note that the yoke end mount really only has a small square area that contacts the end of the yoke. Those shocks will all work with the yoke from 2016 and earlier, as well as the redesigned 2017/2018 ones. For whatever reason, Push made their mount take up the whole rectangular area there, which is why you had to modify it for the 2017 yoke. Actually you coulda just put a 2mm thick washer in there and probably wouldn't have noticed a difference, but since you have access to machining tools... Anyway, with the new yoke you'll have a couple BB height/HTA options to play with.

    The new link is a slightly different shape from the 2017 one, so it alters the leverage rate to make it slightly more progressive (or less regressive as the case may be). Whether or not that change is actually noticeable is up for debate, there was plenty of discussion on the 2018 Enduro thread, so YMMV. What's not debatable is it is definitely a different shape, so it can't NOT affect the leverage rate at least in some way. BTW, it seems the travel drops a tad to 160mm with that link vs. 165 with the original. Anyway, that would give you another thing to play with when dialing in your shock.

    I'm running the TTX and don't feel like I'm blowing through the travel or bottoming out more than usual, so at this point I'm fine with the 2017 leverage rate. I've been thinking about running the 2018 yoke in low mode with the 2017 link, haven't gotten around to trying it yet though.
    That's some good info, thanks alot! I still want to play with the settings a bit but so far the performance is quite similar to my limited time on the Ohlins TTX.

    I've got a 525 lb coil with one turn of preload at the moment and might try a 500. Lots of room to move on the dials at this point.

  106. #2306
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    I'm running the TTX and don't feel like I'm blowing through the travel or bottoming out more than usual, so at this point I'm fine with the 2017 leverage rate. I've been thinking about running the 2018 yoke in low mode with the 2017 link, haven't gotten around to trying it yet though.
    What are you trying to achieve? You are running the 2018 yoke and link now with the TTX, correct?

    I'm running the '18 yoke and link with a TTX. It's been fantastic for trail riding, including solid climbing (4-6k feet/ride). I'm a lighter rider, and while I go fast through rough stuff I am not taking big air.

  107. #2307
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    I'm still running the 2017 link/yoke. I have the 2018 parts sitting here just waiting for a convenient time to install them when I'll have time to do some good comparison testing, and that always loses out to "I'm just gonna go ride".

    I'm thinking about running the 2018 yoke with the 2017 link because then I could get the lower BB of the 2018 yoke in low position, with the longer travel of the 2017 link. This only makes sense if you're OK with the "shitty" 2017 leverage curve, which so far hasn't been a problem for me. Anyway, it's nice to have options, and that Specialized even provided those parts at a reasonable cost!

  108. #2308
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    I'm still running the 2017 link/yoke. I have the 2018 parts sitting here just waiting for a convenient time to install them when I'll have time to do some good comparison testing, and that always loses out to "I'm just gonna go ride".
    I've been running the 2018 package since mid-summer, and honestly, I didn't notice a loss of travel nor did I notice a change in the curve, to tell you the truth, I didn't notice a difference at all, other than the lower BB being better on tight uphill switch backs, which are very common on the climbing trails around here (North Shore, Vancouver, BC). I have the 2017 Ohlins Edition Coil upgraded to X01 Eagle. I did all of the upgrades around the same time, as well as sending the fork in for bushing resizing and spring swap. The bike is awesome and I figure that getting the fork dialed made more of a difference to how the bike rides than the yoke/link change.

  109. #2309
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    I got my I9 stem on Monday and mounted it up on my Enduro on Tuesday morning... I also grabbed a Chromag BZA bar.





    The stem is really nice. I have a Raceface Atlas on my Fuse and this stem is definitely a nicer piece. The machining is really nice.

  110. #2310
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    I'm trying to decide if I should bother with the 2018 setup. I suppose I could get it and try, it isn't terribly expensive. But I seem to have ground clearance issues when trail riding now with a 32 ring (I hit it on occasion), I would think having an even lower BB would be worse. But, I would suppose on more playful days or days with more groomed trails (bike park) the lower BB would be nice.

    I'm a pretty light rider on the aluminum Comp model, so I have the cheapest suspension setup. I have a tough time saying I get big air, but I would say I am above average (I go larger than everyone I personally know except the teenagers, who I'm equal to).

  111. #2311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I'm trying to decide if I should bother with the 2018 setup. I suppose I could get it and try, it isn't terribly expensive. But I seem to have ground clearance issues when trail riding now with a 32 ring (I hit it on occasion), I would think having an even lower BB would be worse. But, I would suppose on more playful days or days with more groomed trails (bike park) the lower BB would be nice.

    I'm a pretty light rider on the aluminum Comp model, so I have the cheapest suspension setup. I have a tough time saying I get big air, but I would say I am above average (I go larger than everyone I personally know except the teenagers, who I'm equal to).
    Something wrong with your rear shock if your getting pedal strikes on this bike

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  112. #2312
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    Something wrong with your rear shock if your getting pedal strikes on this bike
    How many mm from the centre of the BB to the ground?

  113. #2313
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    Something wrong with your rear shock if your getting pedal strikes on this bike

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    Nah, if you saw the trails, you'd understand.

  114. #2314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    Nah, if you saw the trails, you'd understand.
    +1

    I switched to the V2 hardware and started out in the low position. I immediately began getting a high amount of rock strikes (and even broke the spring of a pedal). Switched to high (which is really just the 2017 position, right?) and everything was fine. Funny how a few mm can make such a difference depending on oneís local terrain.

    I didnít notice any difference in travel reduction (or change in leverage) with the STX22, though now Iím on the TTX. Iíd think the TTX would benefit from a more progressive (/less regressive) ratio though.

    Maybe I shouldnít have bothered with the V2 gear!

  115. #2315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    Nah, if you saw the trails, you'd understand.
    Show me the gnar

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  116. #2316
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    Show me the gnar

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    We all know that 2D videos don't show a true representation. And it is trail riding, not the big jumps I am having the issue with. So riding technical rock climbs isn't exactly exciting "gnar".

    Nor do I feel the need to get into a dick measuring contest. I stated my suspension is fine, I have pedal strikes trail riding, that's all I need to say.

  117. #2317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    We all know that 2D videos don't show a true representation. And it is trail riding, not the big jumps I am having the issue with. So riding technical rock climbs isn't exactly exciting "gnar".

    Nor do I feel the need to get into a dick measuring contest. I stated my suspension is fine, I have pedal strikes trail riding, that's all I need to say.
    I was just trying to help u, been mtb since 1992. Have had three of the current enduro's, with ohlins, rock shox and fox suspension. And both linkages, 29 and 6fattie setup. Ride all over pnw.

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  118. #2318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    We all know that 2D videos don't show a true representation. And it is trail riding, not the big jumps I am having the issue with. So riding technical rock climbs isn't exactly exciting "gnar".

    Nor do I feel the need to get into a dick measuring contest. I stated my suspension is fine, I have pedal strikes trail riding, that's all I need to say.
    I can agree with you on the pedal strikes... and I don't even think I ride any gnar... hahaha. I started riding MTN on a Fatboy, two years back (roadie off-season training) and I never got any rock strikes on that thing.... then I got a Fuse 6Fattie and I started to notice rock strikes with that. Now, with the Enduro, I'm also noticing it. I can't quite figure out what the difference is, other than perhaps the Fatboy had a higher bottom bracket.. more XC like geometry, while the Fuse and Endure are a little longer, lower slacker... maybe?

    For the most part though, I'm learning to ride around the strikes... a set of I9 wheels with the amazing rear hub really helped me be able to ratchet pedal over difficult stuff where I might be otherwise slam my pedal.

  119. #2319
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    Quote Originally Posted by elsinore View Post
    DVO Topaz is Enduro specific and a great option. I'm really happy with mine compared to the STX.
    Hi,
    Are you on a 2017 Enduro w/ the DVO Topaz?
    I'm looking for a shock and/or a custom tune that won't bottom out.
    What do you weigh?

    thnx
    Last edited by client_9; 11-24-2018 at 07:39 PM.

  120. #2320
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    ......
    I'm running the TTX and don't feel like I'm blowing through the travel or bottoming out more than usual.................
    I'm considering the TTX coil to replace the stock STX air shock.
    What is your riding weight w/ gear?
    I'm ~ 215 w/ gear. Wondering if the TTX is my solution.
    I think I read somewhere in this thread to order up one spring rate?
    thnx.

  121. #2321
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    Has anyone removed their seat post shim? Techniques? That thing is in there and doesnít want to come out.


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  122. #2322
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    RockShox Monarch Plus RC3 ?

    Hi,
    Can you heavier riders (~200lbs) using the
    RockShox Monarch Plus RC3, please tell me what you think of it.
    I've been advised this is a good shock choice for the '17 Enduro.
    Thanks.

  123. #2323
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    I'm considering the TTX coil to replace the stock STX air shock.
    What is your riding weight w/ gear?
    I'm ~ 215 w/ gear. Wondering if the TTX is my solution.
    I think I read somewhere in this thread to order up one spring rate?
    thnx.
    I'm much lighter. @jimw was among those who helped me when I was deciding to replace the STX with the TTX.

    I went with the exact spring rate that Ohlins recommended. I know the decision is rider-, riding style-, and terrain-dependent.

  124. #2324
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    hey guys.... I've had a couple rides on my Enduro now and I'm trying to dial in some suspension settings. It's a 2017 Enduro Comp with the stock Yari fork and Monarch RC+ shock. This is my first full suspension bike with my previous MTB experience being on a Fatboy and then a Fuse. I've got my Fuse pretty dialed in, swapping in a bunch of parts including a Pike fork that I've got set up really well. I had mixed results using the auto-sag and wasn't really thrilled that I never quite knew what the actual pressure was.

    I just got the shock rebuilt (the seals went bad on a freezing cold Thanksgiving morning ride) so I'm trying to find that right set up. I'm 5'8", 165 pounds. The fork is set up with 70 psi, showing 30% sag and the rear shock is now 170psi showing 30% sag as well. I added one volume spacer to the fork.

    Are most people starting at that 30% sag rating?

  125. #2325
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    Best headset bearings - integrated

    EDIT > Nevermind, got some headset bearings from RWC. <
    Hi,
    I need to replace the headset on my '17 Enduro pro.
    (integrated carbon headset cups)
    The stock FSA bearings are so trashed I can't read any numbers from them.
    Can someone link me to a QUALITY (Cane Creek ?) replacement headset?

    * My crown race is the Cane Creek 40 1.5" 52/40


    Thnx
    Last edited by client_9; 12-01-2018 at 08:55 PM.

  126. #2326
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    Bashguard needed !!!

    Hey,
    Is anyone successfully using one of these BB cup-mounted bashguards?

    I've tried to fit that one and one by Raceface.
    Neither one plays nice w/ the BB shell.
    If you are unfamiliar, they go on just like a BB spacer.

    FYI- I have the stock GXP bottom bracket and crankset w/ the 3mm offset direct-mounted chainring.

    Even if I could get one mounted via the BB cup, that would push the chainline out to ~55mm. That 50 tooth 1st gear would be badly cross chained.

    Why the hell doesn't the '17 Enduro have normal ISCG tabs?!?!

    Does anyone have a viable solution to running a bashguard?

    - thanks
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  127. #2327
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  128. #2328
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    Yeah, I've seen those, but aren't they designed for all three ISCG holes?
    What if there's a big rock strike ?

  129. #2329
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Yeah, I've seen those, but aren't they designed for all three ISCG holes?
    What if there's a big rock strike ?
    Yea... I've seen other people ask that same question, but none of them have really presented any evidence about what might happen... I suppose there could be an instance where there is a strike that's hard enough to bend or damage the 2 existing tabs, that might not be as strong as 3 tabs.... but my thinking is, I'd still rather have that hit occur on the guard and the tabs, then on the crank/chainset.

  130. #2330
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrankAddictRich View Post
    Yea... I've seen other people ask that same question, but none of them have really presented any evidence about what might happen... I suppose there could be an instance where there is a strike that's hard enough to bend or damage the 2 existing tabs, that might not be as strong as 3 tabs.... but my thinking is, I'd still rather have that hit occur on the guard and the tabs, then on the crank/chainset.
    Hmmm I donít know.

    Worst that can happen if you hit the chainring is break the chain and chain ring.
    If you had an impact on an unsecured bash guard, wouldnít it crack the frame at one of the ISCG points?

    Or is there a chance that if it hit the chain ring (without a bash guard) the frame could crack where the BB shell is bonded in?

  131. #2331
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Hmmm I donít know.

    Worst that can happen if you hit the chainring is break the chain and chain ring.
    If you had an impact on an unsecured bash guard, wouldnít it crack the frame at one of the ISCG points?

    Or is there a chance that if it hit the chain ring (without a bash guard) the frame could crack where the BB shell is bonded in?
    but its not unsecured... its attached at 2 points. I can't imagine that a third point makes a huge difference.

  132. #2332
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    It's super annoying that it only has 2 ISCG tabs for whatever reason, but I just run a regular ISCG bash (OneUp Bash guide same as CrankAddictRich, that thing has been awesome and saved my chainring on more than one occasion). Just use 2 bolts, no biggie.



    Your other option is to use a bash ring. On my previous bike I had been running a bash ring and was a little scared to switch to the OneUp with taco bash. Heard too many horror stories of frame damage from taco bash impact. However a long email exchange with OneUp calmed those fears, and I didn't have any problems with it running on that bike subsequently (with several bash impacts). So far so good on the new bike even with only 2 mounting bolts...

  133. #2333
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post

    Your other option is to use a bash ring. ...
    I wish I could. But I have the direct mount chainring not BCD

  134. #2334
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    Oh, missed that part in your original post. Then just use a regular ISCG bash guide with 2 bolts. Tecnically I dunno, it might be a warranty-voiding thing/do at your own risk, but there are plenty of people doing that w/o issue.

  135. #2335
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    Integrated carbon headset cups

    Hey,
    Yet another question ....
    I just want to make sure my headset bearings rest right against the naked carbon fiber in the head tube?
    I'm not missing some kind of alloy "sheath" that goes between bearings and head tube, am I?2017 Specialized Enduro-img_4994.jpg

    Thank you.

  136. #2336
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    That's how it is.

  137. #2337
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    That's how it is.
    Thought so. Thanks for all the answers lately.

  138. #2338
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    S-Link <> wrong spacer? <> seat tube pivot

    I bought a used Enduro and the spacer between the S-link bearings and the seat tube pivot does not look like the others.
    The spacer is shown on this old schematic from 2014 as part "1k"
    (I can't find a schematic for the '17 Enduro)

    2017 Specialized Enduro-fullsizerender.jpg

    As you can see, the outer diameter of the spacer is too small and there is no rubber seal.
    (the inner diameter does match the ID of the bearing)

    I can't think the bearing is just exposed like that.

    ?

    Again, this is the spacer on the inside of the S-link @ seat tube pivot.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    This is my first Specialized.
    I'm finding it very difficult to find part numbers, exploded views, etc.

  139. #2339
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    That's how it is. That area isn't as exposed to grime. The more exposed bearings have a dust shield.

    Bolt/bearing detailed info:
    https://media.specialized.com/suppor...orque_only.pdf

  140. #2340
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    That's how it is. That area isn't as exposed to grime. The more exposed bearings have a dust shield.

    Bolt/bearing detailed info:
    https://media.specialized.com/suppor...orque_only.pdf
    You got all the answers!
    Really appreciate.

  141. #2341
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    I use the MRP AMG v2 with no problems. I have a 32T Oval chainring and it works perfectly.

    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    It's super annoying that it only has 2 ISCG tabs for whatever reason, but I just run a regular ISCG bash (OneUp Bash guide same as CrankAddictRich, that thing has been awesome and saved my chainring on more than one occasion). Just use 2 bolts, no biggie.



    Your other option is to use a bash ring. On my previous bike I had been running a bash ring and was a little scared to switch to the OneUp with taco bash. Heard too many horror stories of frame damage from taco bash impact. However a long email exchange with OneUp calmed those fears, and I didn't have any problems with it running on that bike subsequently (with several bash impacts). So far so good on the new bike even with only 2 mounting bolts...

  142. #2342
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    Long time listener, first time caller. ;-)

    I recently got a great deal on a 2017 Carbon Elite 29er at my LBS and love it so far. Coming from two years on a 27.5 hard tail, this bike is a dream to ride. Having fun dialing in the suspension and getting used to just how different this bike is compared to my hard tail. I definitely notice the extra weight when climbing but that will only serve to get me in better shape. Winter here in the PNW means short days so opportunities to ride are limited to the weekends for the next 4 months but that just makes each ride that much sweeter. Just can't get enough of this bike and really looking forward to next Summer!!

  143. #2343
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    It's super annoying that it only has 2 ISCG tabs for whatever reason
    I was told it was two tabs as it made the frame compatible with both standards of ISCG. I run the Csixx which has three holes and it fits fine. Has top and bottom chainguides and bashguard, have had no issues and have hit the bashguard a couple of times.

  144. #2344
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    Quote Originally Posted by oikeith View Post
    I was told it was two tabs as it made the frame compatible with both standards of ISCG.
    Huh? AFAIK that's bogus info. The 2 ISCG standards are not compatible with each other. They also both have 3 holes. More info:
    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The...ides-2013.html

    Lately some bikes have come out with just 2 holes on there (matching 2 of the 3 hole locations for ISCG-05). At least in the Evil case, it makes sense because they give you 2 bottom holes for a taco bash, and their top guide is integrated. The one on the Enduro makes no sense, other than to discourage attaching anything other than a 2-hole top guide (like their stock one, or other top-only guides by folks like OneUp etc). Plenty of people have attached 3-hole bash guides with just 2 screws, but it doesn't seem to be an "officially" supported config, which seems odd for a bike marketed at aggressive riding.

  145. #2345
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    I'm curious how often people feel the need to have a bash on there. I think of myself as living in a pretty Rocky area being in SoCal; mostly granite. And while I do occasionally hit my chainring, it isn't terribly often. But adding a bash guard would reduce available clearance causing you to bash more often.

    I'm using a 32t ring, I'd imagine a 28 would impact even less often. I might actually go down to a 30 as I care less about DH KOM's where I need to pedal, and I virtually never need to pedal that hard on the actual fun trails.

  146. #2346
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    I'm sure plenty of people don't need a bash. But for the type of riding this bike is marketed toward, i.e. descending DH-bike-worthy trails while still being able to climb to the top, it's weird to not support a full ISCG guide including bash. What other bikes in this segment besides Evil (which is OK for the reasons noted above) have just 2 of the 3 ISCG holes? Note that the previous year E29 did have all 3 tabs.

    You're right that a bash reduces clearance. But it's not by much. I would submit that any significant hit to a bash most likely would have done damage to a naked ring as well.

    Personally I'm running a 32 with the OneUp bash guide. In the past year I've probably had about 5 significant (as in break-or-bend-your-chainring) hits to the bash. Back when I was originally running the stock 28 for a while (w/associated smaller size bash plate) I had at least one significant bash hit. I want zero chainring hits, so for me, it's totally worth it.

    YMMV.

  147. #2347
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    Oh, I agree that it is weird. But I've also been surprised that every time I have hit I told myself "whelp, there goes that chain and ring!"

    So far, no failures.

    I do think it was a mistake not to add it. But it would have zero impact on my decision to buy one again. But mine is also the base level comp and I love that I can just toss this bike down any trail and never worry about breaking it. Because when I do, I won't feel bad about it

  148. #2348
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    TTX shock: upsize spring rate?

    Hey,
    I'm getting a TTX coil for my '17 enduro.
    The recommended spring for my weight (210lbs) is 548lbs/in.

    I ride aggressively and New England trails have lots of chunky features and high speed compression hits.

    Does anyone think I should "upsize" my spring?
    That would be a 571lbs/in spring for a 225lb rider.

    thanks.

  149. #2349
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Hey,
    Does anyone think I should "upsize" my spring?
    That would be a 571lbs/in spring for a 225lb rider.
    I would buy two. One for your recommended, and one slightly firmer. Yes it's a little annoying compared to an air spring, but hey, you've converted to coil so embrace it. To be honest I only put the heavier of mine on when I'm shuttling (and put bigger tires on).

    https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/mo...b-springs/?p=6

  150. #2350
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Hey,
    I'm getting a TTX coil for my '17 enduro.
    The recommended spring for my weight (210lbs) is 548lbs/in.

    I ride aggressively and New England trails have lots of chunky features and high speed compression hits.

    Does anyone think I should "upsize" my spring?
    That would be a 571lbs/in spring for a 225lb rider.

    thanks.

    Hey, I have this exact set up and my weight fluctuates from 210-215. I have the 571 spring and have had the 548. The 571 was much better for me in all conditions. Furthemore, if you stuff your SWAT tube, have a full water bottle, or wear a back pack, all that adds up. Once I changed to the 571 I was extremely happy.

    If you are on the NorthShore, HMU, I ride Lynn Woods regularly as well as other areas too.

    You'll love the TTX-

  151. #2351
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    Hi everybody,

    I love my 2017 enduro elite, but am not at all satisfied with the stock monarch shock. I was wondering if anyone had tried using a BikeYoke, and a longer stroke shock? I'd like to try a vivid air with 63mm stroke instead of the stock 57mm, but don't know if any frame parts will collide? Does anyone have any experience with this? Any help is much appreciated

  152. #2352
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Hey,
    I'm getting a TTX coil for my '17 enduro.
    The recommended spring for my weight (210lbs) is 548lbs/in.

    I ride aggressively and New England trails have lots of chunky features and high speed compression hits.

    Does anyone think I should "upsize" my spring?
    That would be a 571lbs/in spring for a 225lb rider.

    thanks.
    I'm in the same boat...upgrading from the Monarch to a TTX but I weigh 150-160 depending on winter gear, pack, etc. Ohlins spring chart says 457 lbs/in spring for a 150 lb rider and the 480 lbs/in spring for a 165 lb rider. Anyone in my weight range have experience with either of these springs? I'm gonna order both but any advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

  153. #2353
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    Quote Originally Posted by maico996 View Post
    I'm in the same boat...upgrading from the Monarch to a TTX but I weigh 150-160 depending on winter gear, pack, etc. Ohlins spring chart says 457 lbs/in spring for a 150 lb rider and the 480 lbs/in spring for a 165 lb rider. Anyone in my weight range have experience with either of these springs? I'm gonna order both but any advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Update: '17 Enduro w/ TTX coil shock.
    I'm ~ 210lbs w/ tools/water/etc.
    The 571lb spring was way too soft. Just sitting on the bike the sag was @ 50%.
    It took a 650lb Ti. spring to achieve a 25% sag.
    That's 100 lbs over the recommended spring!
    Last edited by client_9; 02-14-2019 at 07:35 PM.

  154. #2354
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Update: '17 Enduro w/ TTX coil shock.
    I'm ~ 210lbs w/ tools/water/etc.
    The 571lb spring was way too soft. Just sitting on the bike the sag was @ 50%.
    It took a 650lb Ti. spring to achieve a 25% sag.
    That's 100 lbs over the recommended spring!

    571# spring for sale.
    Thanks for responding. What is the Ohlins part number on your spring? According to the spring chart for 2017-2018 Enduro that Specialized sent me, it should begin with 18075- followed by 06 thru 17 depending on the spring rate. The highest rate on the chart is 640 lbs/in with a part # of 18705-17.

  155. #2355
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    Quote Originally Posted by maico996 View Post
    Thanks for responding. What is the Ohlins part number on your spring? According to the spring chart for 2017-2018 Enduro that Specialized sent me, it should begin with 18075- followed by 06 thru 17 depending on the spring rate. The highest rate on the chart is 640 lbs/in with a part # of 18705-17.

    https://specializedeuropebvhelp.zend...rate_shock.JPG

  156. #2356
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    Im 190lbs-ish and have just picked up a TTX with a 548 spring but have also purchased a 525 and 502, will try them all out, would like one for normal days and then a harder one for uplift days.

    the spring range is 18075 although the 18074 series will also fit. I was told you could fit slightly longer springs if you have the space, but do not fit shorter springs.

  157. #2357
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    I'm 210 in riding kit. Running a white front spring and a 500lb rear spring. Riding I do is steep, technical tracks, so not fast. Bike has plenty of grip, it feels a bit too soft for bike park/dh track riding where the speeds are higher.

    Swapping the RXF36 coil out for a Lyrik RC2 today, fancied a change. Also will be trying a 550lb rear spring, to see if a 525 is worth going for. Rear has a little too match sag at the moment and as I've got quicker, pushing through the travel quicker.

  158. #2358
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    Trying to decide whether to buy a clearance new E29 coil, or just upgrade my aluminum bike to coil and get carbon hoops. Upgrading my '17 will cost roughly half the cost. I really like the idea of the Swat box, but I'm having a tough time justifying the cost difference.

    Can anyone say that there are enough changes to make it worth replacing the bike? I don't care about the weight. The only real bonus of the carbon is the Swat for me.

  159. #2359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    Trying to decide whether to buy a clearance new E29 coil, or just upgrade my aluminum bike to coil and get carbon hoops. Upgrading my '17 will cost roughly half the cost. I really like the idea of the Swat box, but I'm having a tough time justifying the cost difference.

    Can anyone say that there are enough changes to make it worth replacing the bike? I don't care about the weight. The only real bonus of the carbon is the Swat for me.
    Iíve got a Ď17 coil edition with an Ď18 link that Iím looking to sell. If youíre interested, PM me.

  160. #2360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    Trying to decide whether to buy a clearance new E29 coil, or just upgrade my aluminum bike to coil and get carbon hoops. Upgrading my '17 will cost roughly half the cost. I really like the idea of the Swat box, but I'm having a tough time justifying the cost difference.

    Can anyone say that there are enough changes to make it worth replacing the bike? I don't care about the weight. The only real bonus of the carbon is the Swat for me.
    I'd probably buy the new bike. I have an alloy comp and have almost turned it into the Evo. But the ÷hlins coil forks are frightfully expensive. In fact the TTX rear shock is close to half the price of the Comp

  161. #2361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Btownrider View Post
    Iíve got a Ď17 coil edition with an Ď18 link that Iím looking to sell. If youíre interested, PM me.
    Thanks. I'm trying to stick with new for warranty issues, and my shop gives me good pricing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    I'd probably buy the new bike. I have an alloy comp and have almost turned it into the Evo. But the ÷hlins coil forks are frightfully expensive. In fact the TTX rear shock is close to half the price of the Comp
    Shock is listed for $600 on the Spec website. Fork is $1100. I'd get a little discount on that too. Guess I'll see what kind of price I can get on the bike and see if I can swing it (trying to save money).

  162. #2362
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    30 lbs

    Finally assembled!
    Size Large '17 Pro

    Fork: Fox 36 RC2 160mm
    Shock: TTX coil w/ Ti spring.
    Light Bicycle carbon rims
    Carbon bar.

    2017 Specialized Enduro-unnamed.jpg

    https://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.p...4&d=1551751789

  163. #2363
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Finally assembled!
    Size Large '17 Pro

    Fork: Fox 36 RC2 160mm
    Shock: TTX coil w/ Ti spring.
    Light Bicycle carbon rims
    Carbon bar.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	unnamed.jpg 
Views:	100 
Size:	346.6 KB 
ID:	1240504

    https://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.p...4&d=1551751789
    That's a sick ride. Enjoy it!

  164. #2364
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    Quote Originally Posted by maico996 View Post
    I'm in the same boat...upgrading from the Monarch to a TTX but I weigh 150-160 depending on winter gear, pack, etc. Ohlins spring chart says 457 lbs/in spring for a 150 lb rider and the 480 lbs/in spring for a 165 lb rider. Anyone in my weight range have experience with either of these springs? I'm gonna order both but any advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!
    I installed my TTX the other day and trying to get the sag set correctly. I want to confirm the stroke is 57mm so 25-30% sag would be 14-17mm, correct?

  165. #2365
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    Quote Originally Posted by maico996 View Post
    I installed my TTX the other day and trying to get the sag set correctly. I want to confirm the stroke is 57mm so 25-30% sag would be 14-17mm, correct?
    You are correct.

  166. #2366
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    You are correct.
    Thanks!

  167. #2367
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    How many frame pivot bearings are there?

    I know they are all the same size.
    6802v-2rs (aka 1524-F Specialized #)

    thanks.

  168. #2368
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    Air shock for 200lb rider?

    For a 200lb/90kg rider, what is currently the best air shock for the 2017 Enduro?

  169. #2369
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    For a 200lb/90kg rider, what is currently the best air shock for the 2017 Enduro?
    220lbs/100kg here. Dvo topaz. Easy to adjust, can work on it yourself. Buddy of mine got one for his DH rig and called it coil like. Have one on my 2017 Enduro. Much better than stock imho.

  170. #2370
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodzilla View Post
    220lbs/100kg here. Dvo topaz. Easy to adjust, can work on it yourself. Buddy of mine got one for his DH rig and called it coil like. Have one on my 2017 Enduro. Much better than stock imho.
    Thanks. Custom tuned?

  171. #2371
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    Thanks. Custom tuned?
    If you meant sent out to a company to tune it for me no. I believe DVO will tune it if you buy direct or send them your shock. The shock comes with white tuning bands that you can install in the positive and negative chambers. If that isn't enough there is a Topaz thread where people discuss using different oil weights and adjusting shim stacks.

  172. #2372
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    I'm 190 lbs. Had Dirt Labs add some oil as an air volume reducer to the stx last service and it improved it a lot.

  173. #2373
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    85kgs here and I had no issues with the STX, I have just upgraded to the TTX but that's more out of curiosity, not sure if a coil shock is overkill for my riding!

  174. #2374
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    For a 200lb/90kg rider, what is currently the best air shock for the 2017 Enduro?
    I thought everyone agreed the Fox X2 works with this frame the best a while back?
    Anyway I used one on mine until I swapped it out for a Storia EXT Lok and it was amazing.

    although the Storia is even better

  175. #2375
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    I Have a 2017 Comp. Took off the rear stock Rock Shox Monarch plus shock for service, and saw there is a spacer/washer that resembles a Crown race (Has an inner membrane around washer) that goes between the shock bottom and yolk on it that was pretty beat up. Searching the Web for hours to find a spares schematic resulted in nothing. Anyone know what the part number is on this spacer? I suspect it is used to protect the shock from rubbing on the yolk. Thanks!

  176. #2376
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodzilla View Post
    220lbs/100kg here. Dvo topaz. Easy to adjust, can work on it yourself. Buddy of mine got one for his DH rig and called it coil like. Have one on my 2017 Enduro. Much better than stock imho.
    My Topaz arrives today!
    We weigh approximately the same. Please tell me your settings. (psi Ī and -,
    volume reducers, etc)
    Thank you

  177. #2377
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    Quote Originally Posted by client_9 View Post
    My Topaz arrives today!
    We weigh approximately the same. Please tell me your settings. (psi Ī and -,
    volume reducers, etc)
    Thank you
    3+ 2- I believe on this bike. I run HIGH pressure in the can, around 185 190 in the bladder. Like to feel supported and this does it. All my other stats are in my quote. I am also running the 2018 link FWIW. Enjoy your Topaz!

  178. #2378
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    I thought everyone agreed the Fox X2 works with this frame the best a while back?
    Anyway I used one on mine until I swapped it out for a Storia EXT Lok and it was amazing.

    although the Storia is even better
    That's what I'm running (X2) - tried the 2019 and went back to the 2018 X2. The new poly bump stop basically nukes the last 5% of the travel and the seals have a lot more stiction. I'd love to try that Storia though!!

  179. #2379
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    I'm sure plenty of people don't need a bash. But for the type of riding this bike is marketed toward, i.e. descending DH-bike-worthy trails while still being able to climb to the top, it's weird to not support a full ISCG guide including bash. What other bikes in this segment besides Evil (which is OK for the reasons noted above) have just 2 of the 3 ISCG holes? Note that the previous year E29 did have all 3 tabs.

    You're right that a bash reduces clearance. But it's not by much. I would submit that any significant hit to a bash most likely would have done damage to a naked ring as well.

    Personally I'm running a 32 with the OneUp bash guide. In the past year I've probably had about 5 significant (as in break-or-bend-your-chainring) hits to the bash. Back when I was originally running the stock 28 for a while (w/associated smaller size bash plate) I had at least one significant bash hit. I want zero chainring hits, so for me, it's totally worth it.

    YMMV.
    Update on the ol' bash discussion. Yesterday my OneUp bash guide paid for itself. Hit a big rock in the middle of a steep chute that I saw at the last second and couldn't avoid. Felt the impact but all seemed fine, then at the bottom I took a couple pedal strokes and there was a horrendous scraping noise. Turns out the rock hit the bash at an angle (taking out a nice chunk of plastic) and bent the backplate. It bent exactly at the lower of the 2 ISCG bolt locations, and resulted in the part of the plate where the 3rd bolt would normally go now sticking out and contacting the inside of the chainring when pedaling. If there were 3 ISCG tabs on this frame, it likely either wouldn't have bent at all, or if it did bend that tab would still be screwed in so wouldn't hit the chainring.

    One thing that's nice about the OneUp design is it's easy to remove w/o taking off the cranks, so just took a couple minutes trailside to remove it and I was on my way.

    If I didn't have the bash, that impact for sure would have bent the chainring. And because there is literally only like 1mm clearance between the 32t ring and the carbon chainstay on that frame, if it had bent inboard and I tried to take a pedal stroke, I bet it would have made a big gouge in the chainstay.


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