What are the odds that I can SS a standard frame?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New question here. What are the odds that I can SS a standard frame?

    Being more specific here...

    I am talking about a regular frame, non EBB, non SS. Is it possible (or luck) to get a regular frame, and pray you can get the proper chain tension? Is this where a half link would come in handy? I can get a good deal on a titanum frame from a friend, and was curious if this might be possible, without me taking the plunge.

    As a side note, the frame I belive is a Dean, stripped of the decals, though I can not verify this. It is a size 20". I think I have the specs on a piece of paper laying around here with regard to certain lengths. if this would be critical, let me know.
    Last edited by stebesplace; 10-06-2005 at 08:51 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    Being more specific here...

    I am talking about a regular frame, non EBB, non SS. Is it possible (or luck) to get a regular frame, and pray you can get the proper chain tension? Is this where a half link would come in handy? I can get a good deal on a titanum frame from a friend, and was curious if this might be possible, without me taking the plunge.

    As a side note, the frame I belive is a Dean, stripped of the decals, though I can not verify this. It is a size 20". I think I have the specs on a piece of paper laying around here with regard to certain lengths. if this would be critical, let me know.
    Measure the center of BB to rear axle distance and check here to see what gear combos you can run without a chain tensioner:

    SS Converter

    Turns out a 33:18 or 32:19 fit my old Chase perfectly, 32:17 with a half-link, etc....

    Cheers,

    Dave
    Just Passing Through: eatin' dirt & crappin' dust

  3. #3
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    Or?.........

    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    I am talking about a regular frame, non EBB, non SS. Is it possible (or luck) to get a regular frame, and pray you can get the proper chain tension?
    ..........you can do what I did on my Moots YBB! A White Industries ENO setup, then you can run pretty much any gear combo you want without a half link or tensioner. I just happen to know of a slightly used one that's avaivable .

    PM me if you're interested-JMac
    Last edited by JMac47; 03-29-2006 at 09:03 PM.

  4. #4
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    I would certainly do the ENO hub, however, I am building a very specific "color coordinated" bike. Hardy har har, yeah. I might be stupid in doing so, as with most things that I want to make custom, its always a much harder time getting things setup exactly like I want. I will keep the ENO hub in the back of my mind as a second alternative. In the meantime, I am looking to get some measurements so I can figure out the chainline.

    P.S.
    mtbdirteater, Team Big Time no longer is around, at least their site is currently down. Any other options?

  5. #5
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    After doing some searching, I came accross this.

    http://www.peak.org/~fixin/personal/fmu/php/javafmu.php

    Looks pretty good I guess. It may get me on the right track at least.

  6. #6
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    Sounds like....

    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    I am building a very specific "color coordinated" bike
    ...you've already got some fancy schmancy hub/wheelset to put on. Didn't I read a stripped Ti frame? Silver Mavic's are close enough, aren't they? heh.....but seriously, I do not have a need for the eno wheel now since I have a nice SSpecific frame to build up.

    Isn't there a Curtis Brown (might be close??) bicycle guru that has all that kinda gear inch gizmo info?

    Good luck with magic gearing search. Looking forward to seeing how coordinated your colors are when you post the pix.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    Being more specific here...

    I am talking about a regular frame, non EBB, non SS. Is it possible (or luck) to get a regular frame, and pray you can get the proper chain tension? Is this where a half link would come in handy? I can get a good deal on a titanum frame from a friend, and was curious if this might be possible, without me taking the plunge.

    As a side note, the frame I belive is a Dean, stripped of the decals, though I can not verify this. It is a size 20". I think I have the specs on a piece of paper laying around here with regard to certain lengths. if this would be critical, let me know.
    It's luck to get a magic gear fit, about 2% depending on the slack you will tolerate. A half-link doubles the odds.

    The accuracy of the measurement of the chainstay is critical, beyond the average garage equipment. The builder of the frame may have the best data. Failing that, you can do better by trying rings and cogs until the chain almost fits but is still too loose. By measuring the chain sag you can get accurately determine the chainstay length. (actually I can do it from numbers you send me). It works because given the gearing the theoretical chainstay is known and the sag supplies a correction, a very small correction. Always use a new chain.

  8. #8
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    Some good advice there. Yes color coordination is key with this one, at least its boiling down to making it exactly what I want, and trying ever so hard to not breaking down for an undesirable part. The ENO is not undesireable, its just that i am looking for something with a specific color in mind.

    I need to get those measurements from the frame, though I don't know how accurate it will be, but if I can get them, then plug them in and pray that i get a close match for a specific length. Otherwise I will skip the frame, and look elsewhere.

  9. #9
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    As another side note...

    Why have I not seen anyone (rather than use a rear chain tensioner), use a front densioner, like what a downhill rig would consist of. Here is an example: http://www.bikeparts.com/ProductInfo...-guide863.html

    Seems logical that one could set something like this up easy enough? It might require a different chainline, which may only work with people who use a standard wheelset where they can alter their chainline those extra 5 MM by taking out a spacer and moving the rear cog. But it seems so simple that why wouldn't you use a front chainguide?

    P.S. Would it be cheating if I ended up using a rear OR front chain tensioner :P

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    mtbdirteater, Team Big Time no longer is around, at least their site is currently down. Any other options?
    I have the SS Converter .sit file installer for Mac OS X, but not for any other OS, can send it to you as an email attachment, it's 572KB.

    I'm sure there are other calculators out there though if we look.

    Cheers,

    Dave
    Just Passing Through: eatin' dirt & crappin' dust

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdirteater
    I have the SS Converter .sit file installer for Mac OS X, but not for any other OS, can send it to you as an email attachment, it's 572KB.

    I'm sure there are other calculators out there though if we look.

    Cheers,

    Dave
    That might be the same one I am using already on my mac from the site I posted. I did some reading in regards to what options I might have, and something that I read awhile back came up, which was the actual modification of one of two things. The first is highlighted on Sheldon's page which states that you can modify your hub (cut the tops off the axel flange), to shorten it so it fits directly between the drop edges, and then use your strong ass QR to hold it on, allowing you to move it back etc...

    Of course, modifying my hubs, does not seem like something i want to do, SO, the second modification option is to actually shave away a MM or two in the dropout itself, thus of course voiding any already non existent warranty's I might have had. Its a viable option, though it would take some time, and I would have to be precise. Not to mention I have no idea on the modification of Ti, and whether or not its easy? HA! easy...

  12. #12
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    I just did mine, 32 * 16, had to dremel around 2mm from the front of the driveside dropout but the tension is perfect. Completely standard alloy hardtail. Pics later. I'm ecstatic. First ride is tomorrow, at the mont 24 hour race in Canberra !

    - Joel
    Cycling is Serious Business.

  13. #13
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    Very nice Joel! I will look forward to the pics! I have yet to get my dimensions, but my feeling is that I might grind and file out a couple of MM worth of space in the back. The question is...Do I go "Back" or actually go "Up" with the grinding. Here is a pic I tossed together to elaborate what I am talking about.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    Very nice Joel! I will look forward to the pics! I have yet to get my dimensions, but my feeling is that I might grind and file out a couple of MM worth of space in the back. The question is...Do I go "Back" or actually go "Up" with the grinding. Here is a pic I tossed together to elaborate what I am talking about.
    How do you know if you have to grind "back" or "forward"? Try the gears first.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by stebesplace
    Very nice Joel! I will look forward to the pics! I have yet to get my dimensions, but my feeling is that I might grind and file out a couple of MM worth of space in the back. The question is...Do I go "Back" or actually go "Up" with the grinding. Here is a pic I tossed together to elaborate what I am talking about.
    I did exactly that, but I went forward because I am running V brakes and up or back would have meant the inability to get the pads to contact the rims correctly.
    "Do not touch the trim"

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