Weight weenie alert- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Weight weenie alert

    Well, not really, but just curious really….

    My ride is a 2014 Unit now with Recon Gold TK solo air (w/remote) Ardent 2.4 in the front, Renthal Kevlar grips, VP Vice pedals, 32x20 (fwiw). Otherwise, it is stock(KONA BIKES | 2014 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | UNIT). Still running tubes, btw(my perhaps flawed reasoning in that I never flat on this bike--famous last words I'm sure…). With this setup, using the old bathroom scale, she's around 29lbs. Not so bad I guess.
    But, if I were to attempt to shave some weight--wheels first I assume? Bars, seatpost?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Weight weenie alert-unit-w-sus2.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
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    Wheels and cranks. Maybe seatpost and stem after.

  3. #3
    WillWorkForTrail
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    In order of how I'd do it:

    Wheels
    Cranks
    Seatpost (carbon)
    Bars (carbon)
    Brakes (anything hydro)

    If you're addicted to that squish, you can probably get a lighter fork (better performing too) for not a whole lot. For what it's worth, my steel frame SS (size XXL) has 120mm of squish on the front these days, and weighs 25lbs 2oz. There's a build thread on it around here somewhere I need to update. If you do it a piece at a time, and look around and find stuff on sale (like $150 carbon posts for $70, carbon bars for $50) you can do it pretty cheap, or at least if feels that way. In reality I've probably got ~$1500 tied up in my bike, but it was a little at a time, here and there.

  4. #4
    psycho cyclo addict
    Reputation: edubfromktown's Avatar
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    This ^^^

    Note: some carbon bars and posts can be heavier than aluminum counterparts so make sure you check the weight before pulling the trigger on them. I don't go crazy on lightweight stuff as I tend to break things Carbon post is worth it IMO- more flex than alloy ones for sure.

    22 lbs.

    Weight weenie alert-screen-shot-2015-07-15-10.36.35-am.jpg

    Niner SIR 9. Only thing semi weight weenie on it is the wheel set (DT 240s hubs, Stan's Crest rims). Tried a Niner carbon fork and found it to be too harsh... steel (fork too hahaha) is real.
    【ツ】 eDub 【ツ】

  5. #5
    Life's a Garden, dig it!
    Reputation: chuckha62's Avatar
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    Lots to be saved in the wheels, but it gets pretty spendy to do it. My current set up weighs in right at 20.5 lbs and I think I can get her under 20 with my new wheels and tubeless tires, which should be done tomorrow. My frame only weighs 2.9 lbs though (2001 Schwinn Homegrown). Next up, a lighter bottom bracket.

    Your steel frame may weigh a bit more, but it's way more forgiving than aluminum.

  6. #6
    SS Pusher Man
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    Lose the stock wheels.....at that price point for a complete bike, they are gonna be heavy.

    The Recon Gold is not as heavy as it's Silver counterparts....but still could save some grams there.

    The big old flat pedals, can most likely be dropped and few grams saved

    Ditch the bash guard and stock cranks. There are likely lighter options out there.

    Getting rid of the tubes....doesn't really drop any weight.

    Going from 2.4 Ardent to 2.25 Ardent will get you a few more grams.

    Stock seatpost and bars and usually boat anchors...as is the saddle.
    Bicycles don’t have motors or batteries.

    Ebikes are not bicycles

  7. #7
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    Thanks folks. I JUST put that fork on so I expect I'll ride it for a while. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if I go back to rigid, or at least switch back and forth.

    Also, just put on the 2.4 in the front, so I'll likely continue that experiment for the time being.

    I will pop down to my LBS and talk wheels and cranks I think. Seems like I couldn't really go wrong upgrading those.

    BTW: according to Kona, the weights on these stock items are: stem 172g, post 230g, bar 246g. From the little research I've done so far, I thought the post and bar weren't actually too bad!

  8. #8
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    You have a way to go before you can earn the title of weight weenie. Don't bother searching for the silver bullet that makes your bike 4lbs lighter. The best single item change you'll do is 500-800g going to a carbon fork. The rest is going to be gradually smaller chunks of weight. For example, the bar, stem and post weights you posted aren't terrible, but you can save 20g on the post and stem each and 70g on the bar and get a 1/4lb off the bike. If you really want to be a weight weenie, strip the bike down and weigh what you have, that way you know where to spend your money to get the biggest bang. I did that with my race bike and made it 100g lighter just with parts I already owned. (26g just switching from one style plastic bottle cage to a different style plastic bottle cage, 12 grams switching to carbon stem spacers) Finding 10 places to shave 10g each at is pretty easy the first time around...

  9. #9
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    All great info everyone--thanks. The last two mods I did--the sus fork and the 2.4 in the front--added weight, so if I can nudge it back in the other direction I'd be pleased.

  10. #10
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    I have a single speed Honzo and if I were you I would ADD weight before I would try to lose any - that bike really needs a dropper post before it needs new wheels. I figure my Honzo is pushing 30lbs but I don't really care because I like it so much and it's built for speed (downhill speed, anyway). Mine actually has nice wheels already because I built if from the frame up (Flows laced to Hope hubs). But it also has a taco bash guard, Maxxis Minion tires, a Fox DOSS dropper post, big rotors (200/180), and a 140mm Reba. "Honzo" and "weight weenie" should never go together in a sentence or even a paragraph. That's not what the Honzo is about.

  11. #11
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    Here's my single speed rootdown. 150 pike 180 stylo cranks i9s single speed hubs with arch rims Thomson masterpiece post and 720/70 bar stem off of my 2012 stumpy. Weighs 26lbs. Only thing I feel it needs is a dropper. Bike climbs great screams downhill and is just plain ass fun to ride. Will probably eventually put a 750 Thomson carbon trail bar and a 60mm stem on it when I get the dropper.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thor29 View Post
    I have a single speed Honzo and if I were you I would ADD weight before I would try to lose any - that bike really needs a dropper post before it needs new wheels. I figure my Honzo is pushing 30lbs but I don't really care because I like it so much and it's built for speed (downhill speed, anyway). Mine actually has nice wheels already because I built if from the frame up (Flows laced to Hope hubs). But it also has a taco bash guard, Maxxis Minion tires, a Fox DOSS dropper post, big rotors (200/180), and a 140mm Reba. "Honzo" and "weight weenie" should never go together in a sentence or even a paragraph. That's not what the Honzo is about.
    Interesting point--maybe this is the wrong bike to worry too much about weight on. As I say, it's around 29lbs (I think) based on my low-tech weighing approach which sounds heavy-ish to me, but then again, I only weigh about 140 fully geared up with water, etc. so maybe it's not such a big deal after all. One of my guys at my LBS said if I was gonna do wheels, it might be better to save up and really do it--spend $1200 or so, as opposed to just inching my way up and not really dropping significant weight or really improving things much. I can't spend that much right now, so maybe I should hold off.

  13. #13
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    I have the same frame build up singlespeed to a shade over 21 pounds without going crazy on money. My personal opinion is lighter wheels, shimano hydros, carbon seat post and carbon bars and that would be a great ride....I am enjoying mine.

  14. #14
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    I think Thor hit the nail on the head. But, it's worth thinking about what you even want the bike to be. I have a WW steel SS HT built for heavy duty AM riding (140 Pike, 2.5" DHF's, dropper, MTX's). Due to some issues (I moved so my terrain changed, bad luck on my gearing which limited tire clearance being I wanted short chainstays on the sliders and the ETT was too short). I spent a lot of time and money trying to get the bike to be something it really wasn't capable of being. In the end, I chose to optimize it for XC/trail; which matched up with the frame geometry a lot better. I saved 6 pounds by doing that but I'm still stuck with a heavy steel frame that was built to take pretty much any abuse; which is massive overkill for XC at my 170 pounds. A much better frame choice for me would have been a carbon or lighter steel build.

    If you want light, Honzo isn't the right tool. If you want strong and fun, it probably is.

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