Voodoo Wanga 2 speed.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Voodoo Wanga 2 speed.

    I had all these parts laying around without a frame to hang them on. Money is tight so I needed something inexpensive and I saw the Wanga got really good reviews so I ordered one. I had a Sunrace JuJu cassette that I damaged the big ring on. The JuJu uses separate alloy carriers for every 2 rings so I thought it would be cool to use the 16 and 18 tooth rings until I figure out what gearing I want. The sliding dropouts make it easy to change the gearing very quickly. Here is the build:
    Voodoo Wanga in large
    Wheels: Mavic 317's with King hubs
    Headset: King
    Stem: Thomson
    Post: Thomson
    Saddle: WTB laser V
    Cranks: Jones Mod Shimano XTR m-960
    Fork: Reba Race with PopLoc
    Bars: Easton Monkeylite XC
    BB: XTR
    Brakes: Hope








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  2. #2
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    Those looked like ramped cogs to me. As an agent for the Testicle Protection and Proliferation Group, I can tell you that you, your wife, your mistress, girlfriend and/or boyfriend will not be happy with the results that your drivetrain will assuredly deliver on your next climb.

    The cost of two decent SS cogs weighted against the pleasure of a burst testicle...

    Stepping outside the role of my day job, I would like to compliment you on what will absolutely be a sweet ride. Is that a frame you picked up on ebay?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth View Post
    Those looked like ramped cogs to me. As an agent for the Testicle Protection and Proliferation Group, I can tell you that you, your wife, your mistress, girlfriend and/or boyfriend will not be happy with the results that your drivetrain will assuredly deliver on your next climb.

    The cost of two decent SS cogs weighted against the pleasure of a burst testicle...

    Stepping outside the role of my day job, I would like to compliment you on what will absolutely be a sweet ride. Is that a frame you picked up on ebay?
    I thought that may be a problem but I assure you under full power up a rocky climb there is no movement in the chain. If the chainline was off that would be a problem. I think I like the 16t gearing anyway so I will likely buy a 16t and go with that. This is just a way for me to figure out what gearing I liked before dropping the money on a cog. I got the frame new from my LBS but I got a really good price. I like the versatility, I can run it geared if I want and it comes with bolt on canti studs too. Pretty light for a steel frame and the ride quality is nice. The only thing I don't like is the paint chips too easily.
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  4. #4
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    Very nice looking ride. Awesome build too. Well done.
    Now get the 16T cog quickly, before the consequences...

  5. #5
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    I've been trying to think of a way to do a 2 or 3 speed. Chain tension and chain line are my 2 biggest obstacles. Maybe something like they used in the 1910s/1920s ????

    Nice ride. I like me some steel.

  6. #6
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    The nicest 3speed set I have seen was on Jeff from Carousel Design Works Monocog - he had a single rear cog and Paul comp Melvin chain tensioner and a tripple chainset / front mech. This gave 3 wide ranging gears with minimal chain line issues (less of a problem on the front as the chain is wrapping more teeth )

    SSP
    "Put any one on one of these singlespeed bikes and they could not help but have fun"
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  7. #7
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    Well I rode it a bit harder today and had issues with the sliding dropouts moving a bit. Others had mentioned this and said removing the paint from around the dropout would solve it. The chain did not skip at all until the wheel slipped then I had trouble keeping it on. I came home and sanded the dropouts and then I roughed up the bolt plate a bit to give it some grip. Tightened it back up and hammered a hill behind my house standing up at full torque with no movement. I see no need to change from the 16t cog. It is perfect so I will pick up another one next week. Beyond that issue the bike is perfect. The ride quality is nice and lively. Running a 2.35 in the rear was a good choice because the bike is so smooth with it. I had a Cannondale 1fg which I really liked but I always took a beating on that bike. This is much smoother even though almost all the parts came off the Cannondale. Bottom line, great bike with a great ride. I highly reccomend it. For the price it is pretty hard to beat.
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  8. #8
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    Nut Police opining again. Just looked at your photos again and you don't need the N-Stop.

  9. #9
    The need for singlespeed
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    What tires did you run on the Cannondale?

  10. #10
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    yep.
    Melvin will do that

    via Paul Components:



    "The Melvin has enough chain wrap to work with all three chain rings."

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by umarth View Post
    Nut Police opining again. Just looked at your photos again and you don't need the N-Stop.
    I think you are right. The boys said thanks. FYI, I used exactly the same wheels and tires on the Cannondale. In fact the saddle, seatpost, stem, bars grips, pedals all came from that bike.
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  12. #12
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    Looking at the size of the carbon spacer used on the drive side of the crank, I have to ask how many threads you have in the bb itself. The spacer just looks large in the picture to me. Neat idea though.

    Which Hope brakes are those?

  13. #13
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    Dude, I'm digging the work tray on your stand! Just noticed that! Once again, neat idea.

  14. #14
    The need for singlespeed
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    FYI, I used exactly the same wheels and tires on the Cannondale.
    Yep, I rode a Wanga for a season. Nice frame, but no smoother than my stiff-as-**** GT, even with an extra 1.5" of skinny carbon seatpost showing.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SPD View Post
    Looking at the size of the carbon spacer used on the drive side of the crank, I have to ask how many threads you have in the bb itself. The spacer just looks large in the picture to me. Neat idea though.

    Which Hope brakes are those?
    The brakes are Mono Mini's. Very solid brakes, powerful and light but tough to setup. The good thing is once you get them dialed in they stay that way for a long time. The spacer was a 5mm which was wrong. I needed a 2.5 which is what I have now. I used an old skateboard for my tool tray. It is concave so nothing rolls out and I drilled some holes for my tools. Best thing is I paid 15 dollars for the whole stand. It is an older Park Pro with a 50 pound base plate.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by zaskaranddriver View Post
    Yep, I rode a Wanga for a season. Nice frame, but no smoother than my stiff-as-**** GT, even with an extra 1.5" of skinny carbon seatpost showing.
    Try riding a 1fg. Compared to that this bike feels like a softtail. Of course the 1fg had a 80mm Headshok which is also alot stiffer than the Reba I have now.
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  17. #17
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    What size spacer is adequate between two gears? And is putting 3 gears out of the question? I have a 16t on there now was thinking of putting a 18t and a 20t next to it.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  18. #18
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    You need the White Industries Eno DOS freewheel, two gears in one. Not sue if it'll work with your CKing hubs though? Do they take a screw-on.
    Nat

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by natmat View Post
    You need the White Industries Eno DOS freewheel, two gears in one. Not sue if it'll work with your CKing hubs though? Do they take a screw-on.
    Nat
    The ENO Dos Freewheel will not fit on the CK hubs, they are thread on type rather than cassette type. There are companies that make double cogs for cassettes (I think, can't think of them off hand) Could always use a pair of single speed cogs spaced appropriately for the same effect. If you went this route, I'd also suggest running 2 chainrings and 2 cogs, each spaced 2 teeth away from eachother ie., 16/18 cog matched with 34/36 chain rings. You could run a "dingle speed" (search it) and the 34/18 would be close enough to the same chain length as the 36/16. Townie gear and mountain gear without any adjustment, Yay!

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