Thomson post stuck in Surly 1x1- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Old school BMXer
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    Thomson post stuck in Surly 1x1

    I have to start by saying that I'm anal about greasing my seatposts. However, I haven't removed the seat post from my 1x1 in over a year (an injury kept my off the bike for a year). Well, the Thomson post is now stuck. I've been trying to soak the joint (with the clamp removed) with both WD-40 and 3-in-1 oil. I removed the water bottle bolts on the seat tube, and with the bike and seat tube tilted slightly upside down, I've put oil in the water bottle bolt holes, trying to soak the post/seat tube interface from the bottom. It won't budge!
    I put some oil in and let it set for a couple days, but it still won't move. If I beat on the seat, I can get about 2 degrees of rotation, but that's it.

    Any suggestions?

    Ironically, the initial reason I wanted to remove the post is so I can install a quick release seat clamp so I can easily change the seat height during rides!

  2. #2
    neutiquam erro
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    Here are some ideas.

    Good luck!

    Cheers, Chris

  3. #3
    Old school BMXer
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    Thanks Chris!
    I guess I'll have to take a bit more of an aggressive approach. I did try a large pipe wrench, until the frame seemed to flex alot while holding it.

    I won't go so far as the one person who connected the frame and post to hitches of cars...I have a Dodge Ram with a Cummins engine with few mods (about 400 hp, 800 ft-lb torque) - I'd rip the frame apart!

    I think the next thing I'll try is beating it downward with hammer and block of wood. That may budge it loose.

    BTW, I'm surprised neither of those threads showed up in my search. The search function here doesn't seem to work very well. I also missed a few threads on another subject. Maybe it's me, I don't know.

  4. #4
    pvd
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    DO NOT USE A PIPE WRENCH!!!!

    best bet is this:

    1. drill a 1/4" hole in the seatpost about an inch from where it enters the frame.
    2. stick a 3 or 4 inch long 1/4" diameter rod through the hole and center it in the post.
    3. invert the bike and gently close the jaws of a vise over the post where the rod is so that the rod is diagonally against the faces of the jaws. do not tighten the vise any more than needed to hold everything in place.
    4. spin the frame and the post will brake free.
    5. remove seatpost and toss it.
    6. next time use never-seize.

    the point is to keep the integrety of the post to be able to use it as a part of the tool. if you crush the post, everything gets harder.

  5. #5
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    I wasn't using an actual pipe wrench. It was actually an extra large pair of channel locks, and I held on to the seat post head so as not to mar the post.

    Since I like this Thomson post, I'd rather not destroy it, if I can.
    If I can't get the post out, I will simply cut off the seat clamp (hey, save a few grams!), and just keep using it as is, understanding that having a quick-release seat post clamp is useless.

  6. #6
    Obi
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    Idea! Worst case solutions...

    This might cost you a seat post, or a saddle, but...

    Take the wheels, etc off the bike, clamp the crap outta the seatpost in a vise, and use the frame as a leverage point. If that fails, clamp the seatpost around the rail clamps.

    If all else fails, either cut off the seatpost and ream the tubes, or even try heating up the tubes then twisting in a similar fashion as described above.

  7. #7
    pvd
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    if you are trying to do that, better a pipe wrench than channel locks.

  8. #8
    Old school BMXer
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    Many years ago, I had a worse case situation. It was on a GT STS. I had just moved the post a few days before, but when I tried to move it again, it wouldn't budge. I took it to my buddy who worked at GT who said it would be easy to remove. It wasn't so easy. He ended up cutting the post and reaming the seat tube to the next size up post (kind of like a first-over piston!).

  9. #9
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    If you can find a vise with a large opening, such as those use by carpenters for jointing table top, put BB shell (with preferably an old BB in it) in one end of the vise and end of seat post in the other, then close the vise slowly, hope it works for you, good luck!

  10. #10
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    This Works

    Buy a can of PB BLASTER -you can get it at home depot or the such. read the can - cool stuff to have around.
    Spray it in the water bottle holes with the little red straw while the frame is tires up.
    do this a few times upside down and then down the seat post while tires down. let it set for an hour or so.
    CAREFUL NOW- I wrapped an old tire (not tube) piece around the post and used a pipe wrench. go one way then switch. Now brag to your buddies you can fix something
    Jim

  11. #11
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    Last winter I had the exact same problem with a Thomson post in a steel frame. Between working in shops and friends bikes, I end up doing this job once a year or so. My suggestion is to get this one out any way you can and order a new post. Trying to salvage the post when it's this stuck makes the removal job 100x harder, and the post is probably going to get ruined anyway.

    I've had good luck with cutting off the post, leaving an inch or two above the seatclamp, then taking a jabsaw to the post. Use lots of cutting fluid. When you've cut thru the post, you can begin to peel it away from the frame with a big screwdriver, then take channel locks to it.

    PVD's advice can also be heeded. It might take two people. You'll want to take off the wheels, but put a hub in the rear dropouts to stiffen up the rear end for pushability. You may want to pull off the drive side crank- if the post breaks free suddenly and the frame spins quickly, it's a bad idea to have a bunch of chainrings spinning near your face.

    Good luck!

  12. #12
    HIKE!
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    Soak

    Soak that thing. It took a year to fuse, it's going to take some time to remove. My favorite corrosion disolver is full strength ammonia, the strong Janitor's professional stuff. Soak from above, from below, keep after it, it'll pop out. Ride the bike with the seat collar loose between soakings, the seatpost will pop free sooner or later.

  13. #13
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    stuck post- some other methods

    Some I've collected from this site:

    if the post is toast, cut it off and drop a co2 cartridge into the abyss (after puncturing it, of course). Alu expands more quickly than steel so heat makes the post expand more than the frame, but conversely, the post will SHRINK more than the frame if subjected to extreme cold. It seriously works.

    But, in the end if all else fails an oxy-acetylene torch WILL remove the seatpost without destroying your steel frame (the aluminum will melt and fall away at a much lower temperature than the steel will, just don't overdo it and be careful). It will destroy the paint though, so if it gets this dire, plan on a new paintjob.

    coca cola
    take the cranks off and the BB out. flip the bike over and figure out a way to pour coca cola (not pepsi, seriously) down the seat tube from the bottom. pour a couple of ounces in there and let it sit over night. you gotta pour enough in so that it doesn't all dry up over night. Coca cola will actually eat away a little of the alu post and loosen things up a bit. you should be able to pull the sucker out by hand. the important part is to clean up really well afterwards. Redneck motorheads have been using this trick to unsieze old motors forever

    All you have to do is turn your bike over and pour ammonia into the seat tube, either through the bottle cage holes or by taking ot the BB. The ammonia eats that aluminum oxide/rust mix right up. Whammo, you've got your post out. But be careful with the ammonia fumes, its strong stuff.

    If nothing else works, the final resort is the old hacksaw blade trick. Cut the seatpost off so that about 1/2" is left sticking out, then insert a hacksaw blade into the seatpost and carefully cut a slit in the post. This is very laborious, and you run the risk of damaging the frame if you cut too far, but this approach cannot fail. Once you have cut the slit, grab one edge of the cut with a locking plier and roll the seatpost up inside itself and pull it out

  14. #14
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    seatpost and vice are the best way to go. i would not cut any of the seatpost. that is your lever and leverage for removal.

  15. #15
    Nat
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    Quote Originally Posted by hu-man
    Some I've collected from this site:

    if the post is toast, cut it off and drop a co2 cartridge into the abyss (after puncturing it, of course). Alu expands more quickly than steel so heat makes the post expand more than the frame, but conversely, the post will SHRINK more than the frame if subjected to extreme cold. It seriously works.

    But, in the end if all else fails an oxy-acetylene torch WILL remove the seatpost without destroying your steel frame (the aluminum will melt and fall away at a much lower temperature than the steel will, just don't overdo it and be careful). It will destroy the paint though, so if it gets this dire, plan on a new paintjob.

    coca cola
    take the cranks off and the BB out. flip the bike over and figure out a way to pour coca cola (not pepsi, seriously) down the seat tube from the bottom. pour a couple of ounces in there and let it sit over night. you gotta pour enough in so that it doesn't all dry up over night. Coca cola will actually eat away a little of the alu post and loosen things up a bit. you should be able to pull the sucker out by hand. the important part is to clean up really well afterwards. Redneck motorheads have been using this trick to unsieze old motors forever

    All you have to do is turn your bike over and pour ammonia into the seat tube, either through the bottle cage holes or by taking ot the BB. The ammonia eats that aluminum oxide/rust mix right up. Whammo, you've got your post out. But be careful with the ammonia fumes, its strong stuff.

    If nothing else works, the final resort is the old hacksaw blade trick. Cut the seatpost off so that about 1/2" is left sticking out, then insert a hacksaw blade into the seatpost and carefully cut a slit in the post. This is very laborious, and you run the risk of damaging the frame if you cut too far, but this approach cannot fail. Once you have cut the slit, grab one edge of the cut with a locking plier and roll the seatpost up inside itself and pull it out
    This is Chem Lab. I can tell by that Bunsen burner in the corner...

    I wonder what happens if you fill the frame tubes with gasoline, stick a fuse through one of the water bottle boss holes, light it and get away? Maybe add some gunpowder in there too and blast the Thomsen out?

  16. #16
    ravingbikefiend
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    Getting some sort of liquid wrench into the space between the stem and post is always a good first step.

    Using a wood block and tapping the tube can often loosen what seems to be a completely fused unit but oine should make sure the post is secured against slipping down into the seat tube as then you're going to be screwed.

    Heating the frame also works although you risk damage to the paint.

    On skinnier posts an old bar end can work as a lever in combination with the hammer and wood block.

    I just removed a post from a 74 year old bike using all the methods I described except heat.
    I ride with 65'er...he's a mountain goat....But then again, we need to throw him in the mud and pack his pockets with lead shot before a scale will read him. - Psycho Mike

    -Environmental stickers don't mean shite when they are stuck to CARS!-

  17. #17
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    winner here!

    Quote Originally Posted by sparrow
    Soak that thing. It took a year to fuse, it's going to take some time to remove. My favorite corrosion disolver is full strength ammonia, the strong Janitor's professional stuff. Soak from above, from below, keep after it, it'll pop out. Ride the bike with the seat collar loose between soakings, the seatpost will pop free sooner or later.
    ammonia is the best thing for this! it's worked for me everytime (for alu seatposts)

    checked out sheldon brown's entry on this problem?
    "Aluminum seatposts frequently become stuck by corrosion also, and penetrating oil is almost useless against aluminum oxide. Fortunately, aluminum oxide can be dissolved like magic by using ammonia."
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html


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