Tensioner with two cogs?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Tensioner with two cogs?

    Well, I switched my Pugsley from dinglespeed to singlespeed, then sold my geared road/cross bike and bought an All-City Nature Boy.

    You'd think I was done with goofy drivetrains, but no!


    I'm already setting up the SSCX dinglespeed. 40/20 and 42/18, so that I can go fast on my commute and across campus most of the time and still tackle singletrack some of the time, too.

    Problem is, unbolting the rear hub, unseating the rear brake, letting out the tensioner screws, and then moving the chain over is not convenient.

    Whatever, right? It's a SS!

    But, with all that effort, I may as well run a single ratio and just switch cogs when it's time to play in the woods.

    A tensioner would be a little goofy (and stupid looking) but would solve the problem. I just don't know if there's a tensioner with enough "float" to allow for two cogs in the back.

    Problem: I need a tensioner that works with the chainline of two rear cogs. Anyone know of one?



    Here's a picture of a Problem Solvers tensioner I like the look of, and it's on a Dos Eno freewheel! Does that mean this is it?
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  2. #2
    There's always next year.
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    Somebody probably will give you far better ideas than this, but a short cage derailleur, and adjusting the limit screw when a gear change would work. To be fair, at that point, it's almost easier to throw on a shifter and add a cable, right? ;-)

  3. #3
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    I think I figured it out. The Problem Solvers tensioner does the heavy lifting for me- you can adjust the chainline with one bolt. That'll do it!

    I love SS, and I can push just about anything, but having a trail gear and a road gear is the dream
    Ultralight bikepacking and gear lists... MaxTheCyclist.com

  4. #4
    mtbr member
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    I can't find a picture, but on one old tensioner I had, I replaced the screw that pinches the pulley shaft to the main body with a wingnut. That allowed me to loosen it by hand to move the shaft in and out to adjust for chain line. It sorta worked.

    It might be easier to just use an old derailer. The cage movement would allow the lateral movement you need. Or buy a Surly Crosscheck. The horizontal dropouts on it are much better than track ends for adjusting your gearing on the fly.
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