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Thread: Surly or DMR?

  1. #1
    I'm feeling dirty, you?
    Reputation: jonowee's Avatar
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    Surly or DMR?

    I going to convert my 18-speed steel rigid into a singlespeed.
    I have a derailleur hanger and actual horiziontal dropouts (exits diagonally forward, yeah pretty old-skool frame), I going to use a 'tensioner' and I'm picking between two:

    Surly 1X1 Singlelator

    DMR Tensionseeker

    The Surly cost only a bit more than the DMR and it looks sooo sexy, which one performs better?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Soupboy's Avatar
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    If you...

    ...have a stout bolt on hub/axle you might not need the tensioner with those drop outs. Could save you $, complication and drivetrain noise. The Surly Cross Check has the same dropouts and SS's just fine sans tensioner as you can adjust chain tension with your paws and a wrench.

    Sean
    Professional Amateur

  3. #3
    indigosky
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    Why, why, why?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonowee
    and actual horiziontal dropouts (exits diagonally forward, yeah pretty old-skool frame)[/U]
    Why do you need a tensioner with horizontal dropouts?

  4. #4
    I'm feeling dirty, you?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    ...have a stout bolt on hub/axle you might not need the tensioner with those drop outs. Could save you $, complication and drivetrain noise. The Surly Cross Check has the same dropouts and SS's just fine sans tensioner as you can adjust chain tension with your paws and a wrench.

    Sean
    Bloody hell, why didn't I think of it (having horiziontal dropouts...)? I checked out the Cross-Check (pardon the pun), it's very, very similar but having 26" MTB tyre clearance and a removeable derailleur hanger.

    Get the spacer kit, retire the derailleurs and associated hardware, shorten the chain, tension up the chain and tighten up the 15mm bolt (yet another old-skool feature).

    It's my first time building a singlespeed, just need some help. Soon you'll have another SSer to add to the family.

  5. #5
    I'm feeling dirty, you?
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    FCUK!
    My SS conversion should have taken a month since the last post including parts and paint, I recently just screwed up my rear hub axle along with the already chipped rim (happened last year).
    The axle jumped out and I'm looking for a missing bearing. (Damn cup-&-cone set-up)

    So I replanned to just swap my rear wheel from my geared MTB to my pontential SS and stick a spacer kit on. BUT... the rear wheel is too bloody fat to fit in my old-skool dropouts.
    I got out my calipers and measured the dropout spacing to be 132mm, and as you know most (if not all) MTBs run a 135mm hub spacing. Then hub measures 130mm and the 2mm is compressed by my bolt-up.

    What should I do?
    - Go to my LBS to find a bargain 130mm hubbed MTB rear wheel.
    OR
    - Modify the frame (with help) to 135mm. (cost unknown yet)
    OR
    - Try to revive the old hub (with help again)
    ... I still want to keep the frame for it's old-skool factor.

  6. #6
    "The Dude abides."
    Reputation: MBzip's Avatar
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    Steel is real

    I say bend it, you should be able to do it yourself, if it doesnt work after some grunting then look for a cheapo hub. But ive encountered the same problem, and i was able to bend the triangle out enough to slide a to-big hub in.

  7. #7
    Candlestick Maker
    Reputation: baker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonowee
    FCUK!
    My SS conversion should have taken a month since the last post including parts and paint, I recently just screwed up my rear hub axle along with the already chipped rim (happened last year).
    The axle jumped out and I'm looking for a missing bearing. (Damn cup-&-cone set-up)

    So I replanned to just swap my rear wheel from my geared MTB to my pontential SS and stick a spacer kit on. BUT... the rear wheel is too bloody fat to fit in my old-skool dropouts.
    I got out my calipers and measured the dropout spacing to be 132mm, and as you know most (if not all) MTBs run a 135mm hub spacing. Then hub measures 130mm and the 2mm is compressed by my bolt-up.

    What should I do?
    - Go to my LBS to find a bargain 130mm hubbed MTB rear wheel.
    OR
    - Modify the frame (with help) to 135mm. (cost unknown yet)
    OR
    - Try to revive the old hub (with help again)
    ... I still want to keep the frame for it's old-skool factor.
    Ride with the 135mm hub. I wouldn't even bother to "cold set" the dropouts wider. Just pull the dropouts apart, put the wheel in, bolt it in place, and ride. Check out this description of the Cross Check dropouts:

    "Semi-horizontal w/adjusters give you single-speed compatibility, wheel base adjustability, and our Gnot-rite spacing (132.5mm) allows either 130mm road or 135mm MTB hubs"

    baker

  8. #8
    I'm feeling dirty, you?
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    I spoke to my LBSG and they also sugeested the DIY method.

    Place the frame on the shed floor, stand on the stays and streach the other stays with my hands. Streach it to 136mm to ease installation and removal of the rear wheel.

    Now that I think about it, it makes more sense and cheaper because I don't run disc brakes so I don't need to aligh disc tabs, the V-brake bosses are too far to be affected by a 4mm streach.
    And since it's a singlespeed, who cares about a new chainline, which would have no affect anyway if it was geared.

    Frame doesn't look any different, now I can proceed with building my SS. Time to get that paint stripper (for my custom 'nude' paint job).

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