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  1. #1
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    Stylo Cranks Getting Loose?

    Well I think my Truvativ Stylo single speed cranks (external BB) may be toast. Last week I felt some play in the left crank arm as I was riding my One9. Long story short, the crank arm was very loose. Got home & tightened it down to about 50 ft. pounds. All was well for three more rides, or about 35 miles total and then the same thing.....left crank arm is loose. Has anyone else had this problem? I've had no problems with these cranks for two years so maybe they've just had enough. For the price I paid I can't complain, but I wonder if there's a way to keep that crank arm tight?
    There are three kinds of people: those of us that are good at math and those that are not.

  2. #2
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    You can try locktite on the crank bolts, what type of interface are the cranks?

  3. #3
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    You can try locktite on the crank bolts

  4. #4
    elbow gloves
    Reputation: kinkcrazy's Avatar
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    I had the same experience about 2 years ago. I ended up swapping out the aluminum crank arm bold for a steel bolt, problem solved

  5. #5
    Expert Crasher
    Reputation: GreenLightGo's Avatar
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    The torque spec is only 32-35 ft/lbs correct? That's what's written on the side of the FireX. At 50 ft/lbs, assuming the Stylo is the same torque, probably applying too much preload on the bearings - so they may be toast causing the excess play.
    Happiness depends more on the inward disposition of mind than on outward circumstances. Benjamin Franklin

  6. #6
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    I have had this issue with stylo ss and reg cranks. I rode my stylos loose during a few rides and never did any damage to the splines on the arm-pretty tough cranks. Stylos require that you check for play after every few hard rides.

    Call me dum but i just wrench the crap out of the bolt, no bearing prob either. I do like the idea of changing the Al bolt to Steel.

    When the bearings are bad they tend to make small grinding sounds in the cups.

  7. #7
    is buachail foighneach me
    Reputation: sean salach's Avatar
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    i've said this in another thread yesterday, but i've had the exact same problem with every isis crankset i've tried. i like the shimano octalink design better.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the replies. The bearings seem fine, they spin nice & smooth. I know that 50 ft. lbs. is too much torque (according to Truvativ) but when I first installed the cranks I used the factory torque spec, checked them for looseness after a few rides (they were fine) and I thought all was well. Maybe I didn't help the situation by applying 50 lbs. but I felt the need to crank down on that bolt after it worked loose.

    As for using loc-tite, I thought the threads require grease?

    Finally, I didn't even know a steel bolt was available. I will contact Truvativ. I still think I'll be buying a new crankset, can't deal with the arm falling off on the trail
    There are three kinds of people: those of us that are good at math and those that are not.

  9. #9
    Just hit it with speed
    Reputation: GFisher2001's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if this problem is the same as yours but I'm running the same cranks and I've noticed after about 3 hr of riding the left side arm does not have "play". However when I take a wrench to the crankarm bolt, it is pretty loose. I've noticed no play in the crank arms just this loose bolt. Assuming the arms do not come off during a ride and as long as I'm not hurting the cranks, I guess I can live with it. I did pay about 100 for them.
    Don't hate on the minivan!!!!!!!

  10. #10
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    Many of the firex cranks had this problem, including mine.during a race I had the stop and retighten the crank every 3 miles or so, until my multi tool snapped from crank on the bolt. I had to just go as far as I could before it came off completely(5 miles from the finish). But truvativ honored the warranty and replaced it with a new stylo crankset. If they've had problems with the stylo cranks in the past you may be able to get it replaced for, at least, a good discount if not free. definitely worth a shot imo.

  11. #11
    CEO Product Failure
    Reputation: bingemtbr's Avatar
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    Its the non-drive side crank, right? I'm sure Truvativ would sell you just that, unless you just wanna shiny new drive train.

    The noob mech at the LBS didn't tighten my Stylo's down when they were installed a month back. I destroyed that crank arm within 50ft of trail and limped home. The shop ended up eating the cost of the crank arm. From now on, I always check that bolt pre-ride, just as you would tire pressure. Those cranks are worth it.

  12. #12
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    I had the same problem at 3 different occations.

    Here is the problem:

    The female bolt inside the arm is made of aluminum and the actual screw is made of steel. The pressure from the steel is chewing up the tread inside the female bolt and consequently it is coming loose.


    I end up buying a square tapered Phil wood BB with an Eno crankset... Never had that problem again.


    Dan

  13. #13
    Out there
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    The stylo cranks are pretty much ********. I could never get mine to stay tight. It drove me insane. It's a dumb design is what it is. You can try cleaning and regreasing them but it did f-all for me. I swapped them out for XT hollowtech cranks and never looked back. As a bonus, the XT chainrings are much better too.

    To others who posted in this thread: the Stylo cranks don't have a preload/locknut design.... it's all down to a single bolt with no locknut, which is why I call it dumb.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  14. #14
    @adelorenzo
    Reputation: anthony.delorenzo's Avatar
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    My Stylos held up awesomely for the past six months of SS clyde riding. I don't have a torque wrench but I had to put a hell of a lot of torque on them to get the play out. Actually, I liked the Stylo design so much that I just bought SRAM Rival cranks for my road bike. I put them on last week and was frightened at how much torque I had to put on them to get the play out.

  15. #15
    Novem fugit.
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    I had the same problem, after my LBS replaced my worn out GigaPipe BB
    with a Shimano BB. Somehow that alien BB caused the initial
    loosening. After it got loose once, it just kept getting loose, no
    matter how much over spec my wrench tightened it, no matter what sort
    of LocTite he used. He finally called TruVativ to say WTF, and they
    told him that once loose, the splines on the non-drive side get hosed
    just enough to keep it happening over and over. He put a new
    non-drive-side arm on it, with the (correct) GigaPipe BB, and the
    problem is completely gone. I now check the thing more often, but it
    appears to be 'case closed'.
    0x1D

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