Strippin' Paint?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Strippin' Paint?

    My beater SS project needs an inspirational paint job of Krylonic proportions. The frame is steel. What's the best Do-It-Yourself friendly way to get the original paint off the frame?

  2. #2
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    Stripper

    I stripped an old Bridgestone frame a couple years ago for the same reasons. I picked up some paint stripper, and steel wool from Lowes for about $8. There were two different kinds of stripper, one that you basically soak the steel wool with and rub, and one that's real thick, poor it on the frame, 10 minutes later the paint was bubbling, and came off pretty easy. The welds and tight spots are rough with both. It's gonna be a lot of work either way, but a fun project. I would recommend a krylon clear coat as well, if not it's gonna chip real easy. Some people have talked about bringing theirs to a autobody shop or similar and having them blast it for $15-20, but I haven't done it personally.
    Good luck.

    mb

    Quote Originally Posted by lawhoo
    My beater SS project needs an inspirational paint job of Krylonic proportions. The frame is steel. What's the best Do-It-Yourself friendly way to get the original paint off the frame?
    It's better to be lost, than to know where you are and not like it.

  3. #3
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    Dot 4 brake fluid....

    ....has taken off plenty of my piant. (unintentionally, of course)

  4. #4
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    I repainted (well I had the painting done by a friend who had a body shop) my old Trek hybrid. I just wet sanded the frame, which did take a while, but might be easier than stripping everything completely off. This would work good as long as the old paint isnt peeling or bubbling.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bungyfish
    I stripped an old Bridgestone frame a couple years ago for the same reasons. I picked up some paint stripper, and steel wool from Lowes for about $8. There were two different kinds of stripper, one that you basically soak the steel wool with and rub, and one that's real thick, poor it on the frame, 10 minutes later the paint was bubbling, and came off pretty easy.
    The trick is to let the stripper do the work- leave it on. Also. the warmer the air temperature the better.

  6. #6
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    why not sand and paint over?

    Stripping is really messy and time consuming, if you just want some new color, sand the current paint, prime and go to town! if you need to fill in some chips, I use a bondo-like epoxy that is sandable (bondo sucks IMHO).
    I guess it might add a few oz if you don't strip it though. is there a compelling reason to strip it clean?

    just another option.
    S

    Quote Originally Posted by lawhoo
    My beater SS project needs an inspirational paint job of Krylonic proportions. The frame is steel. What's the best Do-It-Yourself friendly way to get the original paint off the frame?


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by logbiter
    Stripping is really messy and time consuming, if you just want some new color, sand the current paint, prime and go to town! if you need to fill in some chips, I use a bondo-like epoxy that is sandable (bondo sucks IMHO).
    I guess it might add a few oz if you don't strip it though. is there a compelling reason to strip it clean?

    just another option.
    S
    I 2nd that. Take steel wool or light sand paper, rough up the existing paint, smooth out any nicks and paint over it. Double protection and you probably won't need to use a primer either. Unless you're trying to put a light color over a dark color.

  8. #8
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    3rd. And car touch up paint from the auto parts store ($3/can) is more durable than krylon.

  9. #9
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    Listen! re: painting supplies

    Quote Originally Posted by lawhoo
    My beater SS project needs an inspirational paint job of Krylonic proportions. The frame is steel. What's the best Do-It-Yourself friendly way to get the original paint off the frame?
    ACE sells a real cool thingy that you snap on a can o' Krylon and it allows you to have a handle and trigger. This makes it like a spray gun and greatly increases the control and quality of your spray.

    and some unsolicited advice from one who knows:

    Also make sure that you clean the frame with a mineral spirit or alcohol after you use the stripper. Get a small tack rag while you are getting your paints.

    Make sure that you give it a good primer job prior to painting. I recommend that you leave the frame for a day to dry (UNLESS it is very humid where you are cause primer is hydrophilic (water loving)). After primering give it a god rub with the tack rag (this removes all residual primer dust) then carefully give it a light coat of paint. Let it dry at least half an' hour then coat again. Give it an hour then coat lightly again. Then give it a couple of hours and give it a good solid coat.

    give it a couple of days to cure or the paint will just peel off as you rebuild the frame. I have actually gouged paint strips off with my thumb after 4 days while tightening a QR.

    To do fades, pin stripes, candy wraps and cover thread interfaces get a roll of the blue masking tape and make sure that before putting it on fresh paint that it has had at least day of drying time. This will really increase the time of painting but will ensure the paint has offgassed and will not peel up with the tape when you remove it.

    good luck
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  10. #10
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    I'll add my two cents
    I'm actually working on a similar project right now
    For stripping synthetic steel wool (stripping pads) work real nice, more durable than steel wool.

    As mentioned above, multiple coats of paint, multiple coats of primer beforehand.
    The tip I picked up from the guys at the LBS where I work is to cure the frame in a car for a day when you're done. Wait for a scorcher (or if your daytime temps routinely top 100, any day will do) and leave the frame in the car all day, this would probably work especially well if your car is black.

    YO MAMA

  11. #11
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    Strippers

    Mar-Hyde makes a product called Tal-Strip I believe. Ive use this on probably 8-10 bikes with good results.

    The best way to do it is bring your frame to a coin-op car wash bay on off-peak times....you'll want the bay for probably an hour or so. Spray the stripper on and let it soak until the paint bubbles. Put your quarters in and blast it off. Dry, Repeat as nesessary.

    I would remove all of the old paint though. I've made three or four beaters by scuffing the old paint, primering, then just using Dupli-color auto touch up spray paint from Auto Zone. It looks good for about 3 months...but as you lock up your bike to bike racks or if it gets dropped the paint will chip only to reveal the original ghetto color.

    The BEST way to do it is strip the frame yourself and have a local powdercoater shoot it for $50 when he is doing a color you like. Much more durable.
    Front Range Forum Moderator

  12. #12
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    Thanks to everyone for the great advice! I am drawing up my shopping list for supplies right now. One more questioin. Fades? I want to do a tri-color frame and do a bit of fade of one color into the next. Any tips?

    Thanks again. I will post some pics when I am finished.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lawhoo
    Thanks to everyone for the great advice! I am drawing up my shopping list for supplies right now. One more questioin. Fades? I want to do a tri-color frame and do a bit of fade of one color into the next. Any tips?

    Thanks again. I will post some pics when I am finished.

    Hey I just finished painting my Surly frame. It was getting pretty beat-up and some rusty portions so I sanded it and then painted it with some Plastikote Anti-Rust Enamel and then coated it with some automotive clearcoat. I didn't primt it or anything. It took about 1/2 to 3/4 of a can of paint and the whole thing of clearcoat. I was kinda ghetto because I didn't take off the decals so you can see where it is raised where the paint was chipped through or there were decals but overall I was really amazed at how well it came out. The key is to hang the frame somewhere. I used some bungees and a tree. Don't rush in putting on the paint. Follow the instructions and use very thin coats. The key is really in the sanding and cleaning before the painting. After you're done with the clearcoat let it sit for a whole week before you touch it. After that you should be good to go. This weekend I'll try to take some pictures to show what a quick $15 paintjob can do to an aging frame........

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