SS v. 9spd sprocket- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rob.char's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    360

    SS v. 9spd sprocket

    I'm going to convert a Scott Reflex 20 to a SS, I got the 9spd chainrings (32). Should I get a SS sprocket? Would the 9spd work? Should I just go to a shop and get a generic steel ring? Like $40+ for a ring that says surly seems kind of dumb to me. And I'm not a weight weiner either - if it matters.

    I would think a generic steel ring would work fine. Whatcha think?

    Heres what I'm looking at:
    Wheels Manu. SS kit (comes with 16t)
    KMC SS chain
    DMR sts tensioner

    Might order a few different cogs they are only $4 on Jenson, so I can experiment with ratios. I think 32t sprocket would work good.
    Cheers mates.
    Mary ss shenanigans

  2. #2
    Woohoo
    Reputation: kes12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    44

    SS conversion

    I would definitely get a chainring without ramps and pins like the ones that come on 3x9 or 2x9 because there is no real way that the chain will come off of the chainring other than a bad crash or something catastrophic. If you are using a rear wheel with a 9spd free hub I wouldn't use the $4 cogs. They are great for finding the gearing you like but they will eventually dig into the freehub body and possibly keep you from putting a cassette on it. Endless bikes Co. makes a sweet cog with a wide base. Surly and Niner also make nice cogs. You will save yourself alot of headaches using SS specific stuff on your conversion.
    Your Mom goes to college.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rob.char's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    360
    Just to mention this is a wheelset that came stock on the bike I have another hardtail multi gear I use thats been upgraded. So this is mainly parts that have been laying around. What conversion kits would you recommend? This is going on a 9spd hub. I think I'm going to go with the Wheels Manu, and use that 16t cog for a while than make the jump to a higher quality cog the surly looks good at $20. Once I figure out the ratio I want to ride.
    Mary ss shenanigans

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    7,816
    I wouldn't worry about a ss chainring right now. If you have a good chain line and good tension, you're not going to lose the chain up front. The DMR STS is an excellent tensioner.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rob.char's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    360
    What conversion kit have you all used? What do you think of the Gussetbikes kit from beyond bikes?
    Mary ss shenanigans

  6. #6
    wallyman
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    18
    The Surly Chain rings are worth the money. They are hard to wear out and the teeth are longer so the chain stays in place better. The single speed rear cogs have a wider base and grab the freehub much better than a take off cog from a cassette. The Surly SS cogs are very stong and show very little wear.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,979
    Quote Originally Posted by kes12
    I would definitely get a chainring without ramps and pins like the ones that come on 3x9 or 2x9 because there is no real way that the chain will come off of the chainring other than a bad crash or something catastrophic. If you are using a rear wheel with a 9spd free hub I wouldn't use the $4 cogs. They are great for finding the gearing you like but they will eventually dig into the freehub body and possibly keep you from putting a cassette on it. Endless bikes Co. makes a sweet cog with a wide base. Surly and Niner also make nice cogs. You will save yourself alot of headaches using SS specific stuff on your conversion.
    please clarify more. The $4 cogs will only dig in if you have an aluminum freehub. There is no problem using them on steel freehubs, which the Reflex 20 likely has.

  8. #8
    Retro Grouch
    Reputation: aka brad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,091
    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    I wouldn't worry about a ss chainring right now. If you have a good chain line and good tension, you're not going to lose the chain up front. The DMR STS is an excellent tensioner.
    And BTW, as with most tensioners it's not compatible with 1/8" chains.
    Just one more rep and I get the toaster!

  9. #9
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyman
    The Surly Chain rings are worth the money. They are hard to wear out and the teeth are longer so the chain stays in place better. The single speed rear cogs have a wider base and grab the freehub much better than a take off cog from a cassette. The Surly SS cogs are very stong and show very little wear.
    i dissagree, the Surly SS chain ring is too soft of a grade of stainless. I've bent the hell out of them on many occasions, and tacoed one climbing a steep hill. I've never had so many issues with dropping chains/bent teeth as i have with the Surly. I reccomend an E-thirteen or Salsa non-ramped chain ring. Here's the one i have, and it's been great for a few years now. http://www.e13components.com/product_guiderings.html

  10. #10
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    please clarify more. The $4 cogs will only dig in if you have an aluminum freehub. There is no problem using them on steel freehubs, which the Reflex 20 likely has.
    agreed, and my cheap cogs dig in less on my aluminum dt swiss hubs than the few loose cogs on my 9 speed sram 990 cassette.
    But, ideally, it's best to use the wider ones.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,979
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    agreed, and my cheap cogs dig in less on my aluminum dt swiss hubs than the few loose cogs on my 9 speed sram 990 cassette.
    But, ideally, it's best to use the wider ones.
    If there is no difference on a steel freehub then what makes the wider ones more ideal?

    My answer to my own question is that it would only matter if the wider, more expensive ones also have better teeth, are more round, or something else. Sorry, just picking fights now. I think I need more coffee

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    I NEVER had any problem about using cassette rear cog (cheap one @ 2-3$) They usuallly last arround 1000km max.

    They don't dig in steel freehub, but they diged into a friend titanium chrisking and will most likely dig into an aluminium freehub.

    Even with a tensionner I had problem with the chain falling of the front chainring. (Chain drop unless I put a great tension on the chain (even with a good chainline). This was with a shimano chainring.

  13. #13
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    If there is no difference on a steel freehub then what makes the wider ones more ideal?

    My answer to my own question is that it would only matter if the wider, more expensive ones also have better teeth, are more round, or something else. Sorry, just picking fights now. I think I need more coffee
    the cheap ones are stamped, not machined, and are made of cheaper material, most likely. However, i've been using the same crappy ones since like 2005 with no issues, and i actually paid $9 for a pack of 6 different sizes.
    They'll work fine for most applications, they're just not the best out there, obviously. Kinda like a Moots would be ideal, but my piece-o-crap bianchi puss more than suits it's purpose.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,979
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    the cheap ones are stamped, not machined, and are made of cheaper material, most likely. However, i've been using the same crappy ones since like 2005 with no issues, and i actually paid $9 for a pack of 6 different sizes.
    They'll work fine for most applications, they're just not the best out there, obviously. Kinda like a Moots would be ideal, but my piece-o-crap bianchi puss more than suits it's purpose.
    Ahh, the "Moots defense". That is a tough one to counter

  15. #15
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Ahh, the "Moots defense". That is a tough one to counter
    Haha, well, i'd still never buy one. I ride my SS because i'm cheap. Moots defeats the purpose, IMO.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,979
    Quote Originally Posted by ISuckAtRiding
    Haha, well, i'd still never buy one. I ride my SS because i'm cheap. Moots defeats the purpose, IMO.
    But everyone needs something to dream for. Someday I would like to own a Surly cog, that is my dream

  17. #17
    Drinking the Slick_Juice
    Reputation: nuck_chorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,809
    Quote Originally Posted by bad mechanic
    I wouldn't worry about a ss chainring right now. If you have a good chain line and good tension, you're not going to lose the chain up front. The DMR STS is an excellent tensioner.
    hmm i never tried DMR's STS. is the roller really hard plastic?
    "If women don't find handsome , they should at least find you handy."-Red Green

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,979
    Quote Originally Posted by nuck_chorris
    hmm i never tried DMR's STS. is the roller really hard plastic?
    I used to have a different brand's version of the same thing. They are indeed hard plastic, same thing as the rollers used on front chainguides for AM/DH

  19. #19
    Mtbr Forum Sponsor - Homebrewed Components
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,419
    while we're on the topic of tensioners, i really liked the Surly one that i had on my first 2 SS's. It made tire changes easy, didnt change your geometry when you change your ratio, and there was no chance of the wheel moving forward and dropping the chain or causing brake rubbage. I kinda wish i hadnt switched to horizontal dropouts lol

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.