SS Newbie, going tubeless- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Smile SS Newbie, going tubeless

    And I read the FAQ's. Did not see much there on how to convert to tubeless.
    A friend of mine that rides SS fixie told me that I need to go tubeless, it will save bout 100 or 2 hundred grams.
    My current set up:
    -Marin mountain pine frame 17-1/2"
    -LX cranks with a 5 bolt pattern and a custom rock guard that is the spyder for the 5 bolt pattern
    - 36- 18 chainring set up
    - 1x1 hubs front and back with Sun Rynolite rims ATB. Flip flop in rear.
    - Cane Creek headset
    - Judy Rock Shocks up front
    - Tecktro quartz V-brakes
    - Kalloy seat post with WTB Devo seat (the cheaper one)

    Here is what my SS friends have been telling me,
    -get rid of everything and go light,
    -get rid of the rock guard for the front chainring, it is too heavy
    -go with a 4 bolt system for the front chainring, so I can use a 32t and 16t in back (or smaller) saves weight too,
    -go tubeless and quit carrying a pump on my bike
    - get light tires, ect

    So here is where I need some help, and here's my questions:

    -Can I go tubeless with these Sun Rhynolite rims?
    - It has presto valve holes, will that work or do I need to go with schrader valve holes?
    - What gear do I need to go totally tubeless?
    - I already know about Stans No flat liquid, but will it work through a presto valve?

    Also,
    -Everyone tells me to get XT cranks for the front, with 4 bolt pattern
    - What length crank arms? I am 6' (180 lbs) and will be basic mountain biking mostly XC maybe a little single track once in a while, not much downhill.
    - I have heard that Ti and stainless chainrings are not worth the extra$$ basic Alum. is the way to go.
    - I have ordered the KMC Z610H chain, as it seemed to have very favorable reviews here.

    ,,,lets see what else,,,hmm , that is all for now.
    Thanks in advance, btw, I love SS MTB'ing I am new at it and I have been leaving my friends in the dust. I think I may never go back.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SS Newbie, going tubeless-imgp4498.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Here is some more pics of my Bike

    Here is some of the key parts of my Marin Mountain Pine conversion.
    Note; the LX crank with the 5 bolt pattern spyder/rock guard. It is one piece.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SS Newbie, going tubeless-imgp4495.jpg  

    SS Newbie, going tubeless-imgp4489.jpg  


  3. #3
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8...e_gdata_player

    There is also a part 2. You will most likely able to set up your current rims tubeless (even with the prestA valves).

    Also, if you like your cranks, leave them. 4 bolt's not going to save hardly any weight. Use the cash for a decent seat post and saddle in place of the boat anchor you've got now.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbinder
    .
    Thanks in advance, btw, I love SS MTB'ing I am new at it and I have been leaving my friends in the dust. I think I may never go back.

    Why change anything? Because your friends said to? If you love it and are faster than them leave it as is and let them try to catch you on their tubeless, "ultra light" bikes.
    "Lock S-Foils in attack position"

  5. #5
    Retro Grouch
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    Your friend is ignorant. Your build is pretty solid with they exception of your brakes, throw some Avid's or Shimano's on there and you'll notice the difference. Going tubless will weigh more, not less; but conventional wisdom says you will still go faster. I went tubeless because two of my bikes have a rigid front end and they are noticeably more supple. The Stan's Notubes conversion comes as a kit. There is a rubber strip with a built in stem, presta or schrader that seals the rim with the aid of their liquid sealant. Stans has a <a href="http://www.notubes.com/support_selecting.php"> compatibility page</a> and a forum <a href="http://messageboard.notubes.com/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=2ff512a8bed012d9d774d5ad61f9 2920"> message help board </a> for hints and compatibility issues. If you want to go lighter, knock yourself out, but you'll probably find it would be cheaper to buy a new lighter bike than upgrade but either way it certainly is not necessary to keep "leaving (your) friends in the dust."
    Just one more rep and I get the toaster!

  6. #6
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    Thanks all for the reply's. Well here is why I wanted to go to a 4 bolt system. I wanted to get lower gear ratio for rides that have alot of steep terrain. Right now I have 36/18 , if I want lower gears the lowest I can go on the front is 34t, with my current five bolt pattern. I ordered one from Niagara cylclery. A Salsa 110 bcd. Maybe that will be good enough for me. 34/18. and I will just have to get stronger.
    But yeah, you are right about is costing way too much to totally re modify the bike. I might as well just go with what I got and look for a lighter system later on down the road.
    I don't really care to much for the salsa handle bars I have right now. I read that article by Shiggy at mtbtires.com I might try that style, anyone here had any experience with flared drop bars?

  7. #7
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    If you're ok with the clearance you get with the 36, just get a 20T cog.

  8. #8
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    Better seat post?

    "4 bolt's not going to save hardly any weight. Use the cash for a decent seat post and saddle in place of the boat anchor you've got now."


    Hey, well I got that Kalloy because it was cheap ($20) and I heard they are the ones who make Ritchey seat posts and they are the same. It has ovalized tubing and all.
    What do you mean by 'boat anchor' is it really all that heavy? What is a good lighter seat post to have?
    The seat is a WTB Devo , I thought that was a very light seat. I did not get the Team model with Ti rails and all ($140), just basic steel rails.($40) , but even with the steel rails it is still really slim and light.

  9. #9
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    I think the stainless chainrings are worth it. Surly makes them and they are not very expensive compared to the rest of the market. They will last a lot longer then there aluminum counterparts and are not that heavy.

    Tubless was a great thing brought to MTB'ing and probably the best in my book. I suck with tubes, I always seem to slice them in some odd way. I have been tubeless for over a year now with one sealant top off since (summer tire swap). My roommate just went tubeless about 2 weeks ago with his new rims and he noticed how the tires deform around rocks much better, and he feels he gets less small bumps with this setup.

    I have the XT crankset and it is a very nice set, the middle ring is steel/composite and will do fine for a SS chainring (32t). But I would agree with aka brad in saying a new bike would be cheaper in the long run then all these upgrades.

    If you were going to upgrade anything a new set of V's I think would be the right choice. You can usually get the Avid Single Digit 7's pretty cheap on eBay and just pick up some cheap Avid Speed Dial 7 levers, heck you can probably get the whole set on eBay.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  10. #10
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    "4 bolt's not going to save hardly any weight. Use the cash for a decent seat post and saddle in place of the boat anchor you've got now." by P Nut

    Thanks all, hey I was still wondering what is a lighter set up for my seat and seat post.
    I thought that the WTB Devo was a relatively light seat. Now maybe the Kalloy seatpost with ovalized tubing is too heavy, but is the seat really that heavy?
    Keep the wheels rolling

  11. #11
    openwound
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    I wouldn't stress about the seat. Yeah, steel rails are heavier than ti but not so much to worry about. The post is where you could save a little weight. While I'm sure they must make a range of different posts, Kalloy posts are usually not what would be considered light weight. You might shed a little weight there going to either something with thinner walls (Thomson comes to mind) or carbon.

    Don't stop carrying a pump. That would be dumb.

    The cranks are fine but you probably could ditch the bash guard -- though that depends on where you're riding and what the trial throws at you. If you've already got a new ring on the way it wouldn't make sense to get rid of the cranks.

    As the others have suggested, if you're wanting to upgrade something, look into better brakes and maybe some different (wider, carbon) bars. Drop bars or other alt bars are an option, though you'll likely have to be prepared for a bit of experimentation with different stems in order to get your body position where you want it.

  12. #12
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    Hold your Kalloy in one hand and a Thomson in the other. I've also got an SLK saddle which is ultra light. Less comfortable than my Brooks, though.

  13. #13
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    Looks like a solid build. If you want a real performance gain, save about $475 and get a pair of ZTR wheels. They'll be much lighter than your current set, and you can run tubeless real easy-breezy like.

    I don't think changing your post, saddle, or anything other than wheels/tires is going to be noticable speed-wise.
    "I like skinny jeans. Sometimes I wear them to the mall to get an Orange Julius." -Chim Chim

  14. #14
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    Yeah, thanks pNut, voodo and amish for the info, yeah the reason I can't really ditch the bash guard is, it is the spyder that has the 5 bolt pattern, (see above pic) in order to change it I would have to get a different spyder system that would fit the old LX cranks I have. I went to a bike shop and they said I would have a hard time finding a spyder that would fit those cranks, most bike mechanics said it looks like what I have is some custom thing, No one has ever seen this before. This was all set up about 10 years ago.

    Hey slightly off the subject , but I am having a problem with my chain tensioner, and I want to get a better one, who makes the best chain tensioner system nowdays, (that will bolt onto my derailler bracket). I have vertical drop outs.
    Keep the wheels rolling

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by amishscum
    get a pair of ZTR wheels.
    Thanks amish, hey which model is the best? I searched online and there are tons of different models. Which are the best ones for SS MTBing? I have a hard time finding ones that are already built on a hub, the net shows lots of rims.

    Yah, I have been searching online, they are hard to find full wheelsets on good hubs. Where is the best place on line to get the ztr wheelsets?
    Last edited by ironbinder; 11-13-2010 at 11:05 PM.
    Keep the wheels rolling

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