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Thread: SS issues

  1. #1
    Hawes Junkie
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    SS issues

    I was able to get into the SS thing for cheap last month and picked up a rigid Inbred that was a year or so old . I'm totally hooked onto the SS simplicity and freedom but had a terrible time with the chain jumping off and subsequently jacking my right knee into the stem and freaking me out. I took it the local bike shop, DNA Cycle in Mesa, AZ, and they swapped out the crappy bent chainring for a new Salsa one, put on a Spot tensioner since it has horizontal dropouts and adjusted the spacing since the chain wasn't lined up properly. The shop verified that I was using the right chain and that they frame wasn't bent.

    Since then the issue has been drastically reduced but twice since then I've had the chain 'jump' and the last one was a doosey to say the least. Hopefully my knee isn't cracked but I want to fix this issue with the chain jumping.

    Any ideas on what the problem is and/or what a possible fix is?

    Thanks-

    AZ XC

  2. #2
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    I own an Inbred with horizontal dropouts as well and I never had any issues. What's the rest of your set-up? Most people I've known to have chainjump problems used non-SS specific sprockets...

    My current setup is an XT hub and I switched the hollow QR axle for a massive bolt-on. Then I added On-One chaintugs on both sides of the frame.This keeps everthing firmly in place and makes for easy adjustment. I have had zero problems with this. Hope this helps...

  3. #3
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    maybe you meant vertical drops since you should not need a tensioner if you have horizontals. if they already checked your chain line, check the following also:
    1. stiff link
    2. put on a cog with no ramps
    3. check the cogs/chain/chainring for wear and replace if necessary

  4. #4
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    I think he meant tensioner as in tug nut, Spot doesn't make a tensioner. Is this the frame with the single piece dropout and hanger?

    You shouldn't have a problem with chain jump. If you do, then check your chain line. Also, when you spin your crank, does the chain go from tight to super loose? You could have a bent axle or BB. Are the cog and chain in good shape, no broken/rounded teeth, no kinks, etc...
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  5. #5
    Hawes Junkie
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    Tensioner

    I'm trying to get some pictures of my setup so that y'all can see what I'm talking about.
    Spot does make a chain tensioner for horizontal dropouts called the "Rocket"


    Thanks for the feedback

    AZ XC
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  6. #6
    Hawes Junkie
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    pics

    Not the greatest but it's the best I can do. So here's the Rocket tensioner in action with the bolt on clamp to hold everything is place.

    Lemme know if more/better pics would help.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ XC
    ...
    Spot does make a chain tensioner for horizontal dropouts called the "Rocket"
    ...
    FYI in the SS lexicon that's called a tug nut, not a tensioner. Technically it doesn't tension the chain, it just keeps your QR or axle nuts from slipping forward whenever torque is applied to the chain through the cranks.

    Of course you can call it whatever you want to call it, it's just that whenever you say "tensioner" around here people will assume you're talking about something else.

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  8. #8
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    I would like to see the following shot, but from directly behind the cog (not angled from the side) and either pulled back or angled up so that we can see the entire chainline.


  9. #9
    Hawes Junkie
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    I had the wife take these shots so I'll have to take more detailed shots tonight when I get home.

    Thanks for the info thus far and willingness to help.

  10. #10
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    I have the sliding dropout Inbred and I used to get the occasional chain drop. I finally realized that when I hammer hard on rough terrain, the bike flexes a lot and a rigid singlespeed-specific chain will skip off the chain ring.

    Solution: use a more flexible chain, like PC58, which works very well. Since I started using the PC58, I never had the chain fall off.
    My rides:
    Lynskey Ti Pro29 SS
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  11. #11
    Hawes Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    FYI in the SS lexicon that's called a tug nut, not a tensioner. Technically it doesn't tension the chain, it just keeps your QR or axle nuts from slipping forward whenever torque is applied to the chain through the cranks.

    Of course you can call it whatever you want to call it, it's just that whenever you say "tensioner" around here people will assume you're talking about something else.

    --Sparty

    Ya I thought the same thing but I had to go with what the guy at the shop said and who am I to question Spot on what they name their product--as longs as it does it's job.
    Last edited by AZ XC; 04-23-2008 at 09:35 AM.

  12. #12
    Hawes Junkie
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    I thought that a SS specific chain had to be used or you would have premature wear issues? Doing a quick look and the PC58 is an 8-speed chain but would it still work properly?

    I'm game for anything if it doesn't thrash my bike and more importantly keeps my knee from jacking the stem.

    Thanks-

    AZ XC

  13. #13
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    i'm with PBB... looks like your chain line is all whacked. looks to be bending to the left or something...
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    FYI in the SS lexicon that's called a tug nut, not a tensioner....
    That sort of part has been called a chain tensioner for the last 100 odd years because that's what it does.
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  15. #15
    local trails rider
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    The pic makes it look like the chain comes to the cog at an angle. Could be just the pic, though.

    The chain looks a bit rusty. That might cause it to run rough too. Some lube might help.

  16. #16
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    The pics help, looks like you have chainline problems, XT cranks are not factory, so you probably need to look at a different BB length or space the chainring inward. Chainline is not rocket science, just eyeball the chain and itf it look like it's coming off your chainring at an angle, then you need to do some fixing.

    A wider chain like a PC-1 might help somewhat since the links are wider, but you still need to lube up that chain. Did you spin the cranks with the chain off to see if the chainring spins true? Could be bent arms, bent BB, poor alignment of chainring on the crank spider.
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  17. #17
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    AZ XC: I thought that a SS specific chain had to be used or you would have premature wear issues?

    Not at all. A chain that is laterally stiff is simply not critical. While I would also try the advice given about chain line, if all else fails give the PC58 a shot. Even if you have perfect chain line, the PC58 flexes with the frame and with proper tension it should really stick on the cog/rings.
    My rides:
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  18. #18
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    I use bmx chains from KMC.

  19. #19
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike
    That sort of part has been called a chain tensioner for the last 100 odd years because that's what it does.
    I stand corrected.

    --Sparty
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  20. #20
    Hawes Junkie
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    more pics

    Here's some better pics of the chain and alignment--It doesn't look off to me but what do you think? I know the chainring is strait since I just bought that last month and I inspected it last night and saw nothing unusual that would lead me to believe that something was broken or bent out of place. I'm going to try the chain idea and go from there.

    Thanks-

    AZ XC
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    Last edited by AZ XC; 04-23-2008 at 01:17 PM.

  21. #21
    one chain loop
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    chain is a possible culprit, it looks rusty and i bet some links are stiff.
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  22. #22
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    Go with the PC 58 ( now called the PC 870 ) 8 speed chain. It's a much better chain than the PC-1 for SS'ing.
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  23. #23
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    I agree with Serious. I have a steel Salsa frame that I had similar issues with. I was running Boone Ti rings modified XTR m960 crankset and a Sram PC1. Every time I would crank hard over rough terrain or in turns my chain would jump. No matter how tight I tensioned the chain I would continue to have this problem. If the bike is steel you probably have a bit of flex going on.

  24. #24
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    It definitely looks off in the first pic. Draw a horizontal line from the top edge of the pedal to the chain and you can see where it appears to go off of straight.

  25. #25
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    Yeah, the first pic is scary. The rear cog doesn't look like it is parallel to the chainring. Everything should be straight and in line. That's your problem right there.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

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