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  1. #1
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    Spoke Type Questions

    I'm building my first semi-race wheels. Rim is Pacenti TL28 and nipples are going to be DT Pro-Lock Hex Alloy. These have already been bought.

    I'm not a competitive racer but I want to do well, so light, but not ALAP, some durability is desired. Race is going to be the Dakota Five-O which has plenty of steep climbs and rocky sections but also a lot of smooth areas. I'm not concerned about a high speed rock strike, which is the only way I've killed (rear) rims before. Never damaged a front.

    170-175 pounds RTR and running about 44 gear inches on 29" 2.35 Ikons. Steel hardtail with a Pike up front (super light race set-up, I know). This is my first foray into lightweight wheels.

    Initial spoke thoughts.
    Front: Revolutions
    Rear: Competition Race or Wheelsmith 14/17

    Assuming the wheel is built well, any reason to go heavier/lighter on spokes? Normally I ride DT Comps 14/15 with Pacenti DL31's and I never worry about my wheels in the slightest.

    Thanks y'all
    Last edited by Mr. 68 Hundred; 03-20-2015 at 08:12 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Nobody huh?

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  3. #3
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    Okay, some general wheel advice....

    Us a SS specific hub to create a stronger wheel because you don't plan to run gears and as such you can benefit from better spoke triangulation.

    On the front wheel run lighter, thinner spokes on the non-brake side. You can run radial on non-brake side to shorten spokes and save a tiny bit of weight. On the brake side run 2x lacing (or 3x). Longer spokes from the crossing pattern make a stronger wheel but they add weight. You can get away with 2x crossing but the wheel won't track as well because it will not be stiff. Do not try to go full radial because it will not handle the disk braking.

    For the rear wheel run 3x on drive side and 2x on non-drive side or just go 2x on both sides. Again it is a choice of wheel feel. You can run thinner spokes on the non drive side to save weight. Most of the force on rear wheels is drive oriented so thinner lighter spokes for the non-drive works. Braking forces for rear wheels are lighter vs. braking on front wheels.

    Spoke tension will be highly dependent on the specific spoke and rim combo. When in doubt run slightly lower tension because with light rims you tend to crack around the nips if the tension is too high.

    Light wheels are fun to think about but really they will not make you faster. Mostly it is in your head and a couple of hundred grams won't change the result of a 100 mile race by more then a handful of minutes. I am not saying don't do it but at the same time understand you are trading durability for placebo.

  4. #4
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    That's all good advice, except that if you're using a SS rear hub with symmetric dishing then there is no drive side and non drive side. The effective drive load should be the same on both sides if it's symmetric with equal spoke tension.

    Use the Revolutions front and back. I've been using them for several years on several wheelsets and they can hold up well if you built it right - i.e. well tensioned using a gauge and not feel. Find out the max tension spec for your rims and target 90% of that for your average spoke tension for the rear and for the front disc side. The Revs twist easily and you must deliberately counter the wind up as you tension the wheel. As the wheel approaches tension, then as you tighten each nipple always overshoot by 1/4 turn and then back off by the same amount. You can feel the spoke windup if you pay attention. You should use a spoke thread prep to minimize the twist.

    The wheels I've built using Revs have been durable. I don't race much, but I beat the crap out of them and they're good for thousands of miles.

    Personally, I wouldn't use radial spoking on any front wheel with disc brake, not even the low tension side. The weight savings isn't significant. Stick with 3x lacing all around if you want them to be durable.
    It never gets easier, you just go faster. -Greg LeMond
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  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. Because I'm a moron (or too busy linking the awesome JC song), I forgot to mention that I already own the hubs too (240 for front and Hope SS Trials for rear). I'm a traditionalist as well so will be doing 3x, both sides, front and rear.

    It's good to hear I could use the Revs in the back too, that'll save me another ounce. If using non-ProLock nipples, I use Wheelsmith Spoke Prep. Since the plan was to use hex head Pro-Lock nipples (I want alloy for this build and like the hex head design for building), I'm stuck with using the pre-applied Pro-Lock instead of Spoke Prep. Any problems with this and the Revs?

    The wheels I rode in the race last year were Hope Front, Hadley rear, 14/15 comps front, 13/15/14 Alpine III's rear, brass nipples, MTX 33 rims set up ghetto tubeless, 2.5" DHF front and 2.35" Michelin Wild Rock'r 2 Gum-X rear. Bit heavy but the real kicker was how slow the Rock'r rolled. I'll easily be 3 pounds less on the wheels this year without giving up much in rim/tire width.
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  6. #6
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    If it were me I'd probably stick with the DT comps or Sapim race but part of that decision would be due to the money/rewards factor, plus the fact that I've had really good luck with them.

    If money wasn't much of an object and I was trying to build a lighter set I might go with Sapim CX-Rays, or DT revs for a less expensive light build. I'd lace them 3x with whatever spoke I decided on.

  7. #7
    Stateline Falls, Watauga
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    I've only ever used DT alloy nips with Wheelsmith prep. If the Pro-Lock material serves as both a lubricant and a thread lock, it should be fine with the Revs. You're gonna have to counter the windup in any case.
    It never gets easier, you just go faster. -Greg LeMond
    I'm not as fast as I think I am. -JeffL

  8. #8
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    Cool, thanks guys.
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