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  1. #1
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    split frames?

    I think I would like to build a belt drive which frames beside spot have split frames?

  2. #2
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    I believe the only other way right now is a custom frame using the Spot dropouts. I personally haven't seen any other options yet

  3. #3
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    I have the components on order. It's fairly easy to cut a steel frame and knock up a suitable gizmo to hold it all together, so that's what I'll be doing.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  4. #4
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    Nicolai has done it. Not sure about Orange.

  5. #5
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    I would go wth an S&S coupler. They are sexy and functional,,,

    To make it easy on you:

    http://www.mtbr.com/searchresultscrx...s+coupler#1387
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gapp
    I would go wth an S&S coupler. They are sexy and functional...
    Wrong sort of splitters. We're talking about separating the seatstay from the dropout to allow the belt to slip through for fitting.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike
    Wrong sort of splitters. We're talking about separating the seatstay from the dropout to allow the belt to slip through for fitting.
    They have been implemented on the stays to allow the use of a belt drive.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    They have been implemented on the stays to allow the use of a belt drive.
    Exactamundo



    Technically, you could put it on the seat stay or the chain stay, but IMO, the latter is more aesthetic...
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  9. #9
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    Wow, talk about an excessively complicated and expensive solution to a simple problem.

    All that's needed is a pin joint at the bottom of the seatstay. Many years back this was the normal way seatstays were joined to the dropout. Quite a few of the bikes using carbon seatstays have a pin joint at the dropout even now.
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  10. #10
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    What is a pin joint?

  11. #11
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    I had a Kona King Kikapu that had a joint on the seat stay for the (I think) purpose of suspension articulation. Is this similar to what you are referring to?

    https://www.konaworld.com/Prod/00000...ikapu_Side.jpg
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  12. #12
    one chain loop
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    how about retro elevated chainstays? nishiki alien or mantis xcr.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek
    elevated chainstays?.
    Mrazek


    https://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/mrazek-bikes-365592.html

  14. #14
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    I am having a custom built with a S&S on the seat stay

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by perttime
    What is a pin joint?
    one of these...
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    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  16. #16
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    Carver Bikes has a design for the belt drive as well. In Ti no less.

  17. #17
    aka baycat
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    Ibis Tranny is a possible substitute?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by baycat
    Ibis Tranny is a possible substitute?
    Nope. The split should be between the chain- and seatstays at or near the dropout. The Tranny's split is designed such that the entire rear triangle is detached from the front.

    Too bad, though. A belt-drive, SS Tranny would be pretty darn cool.
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  19. #19
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    Salsa Moto Rapido?



    I heard from the rep that they don't recommend such an action (unbolting the seat stay) but when's the last time a recommendation from the factory stopped a bike mechanic anyway.

    Hard to see in the pic, but the seatstay is carbon fiber so maybe felxing it open for a belt wouldn't be so bad. I believe they make a 29'r version as well. I also think Voodoo does a frame very similar to this and all are available as a '09.
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  20. #20
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    you still need a way to tension the belt, it needs 6mm of adjustment to properly tension, and the belt must be able to slide the belt onto the ring and cog from the side. you cant "crank it on" like you would a normal chain, it will score the carbon and cause a stress riser that will brake the belt.

    there are also only a few belt lengths so far so chainstay length is important.
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wedrel
    I think I would like to build a belt drive which frames beside spot have split frames?
    As far as production frames go, I believe the only choices are Spot, Orange, and Nicolai. Also, as others have mentioned some frames with carbon seatstays have a bolted connection that could maybe be seperated. Thia has been mentioned before, but I have not seem anyone who has actually tried it. The Salsa Selma would work if it still uses this kind of cennection, as it has an EBB for tensioning. If the frame is not SS specific, wou would need some kind of tensioner, and I am not aware of any that would accomodate a belt instead of a chain. If you go custom, there are many different options. First is to use the Spot dropout. Simple and should be pretty cheap, but I am not a fan of horizontal dropouts. An S&S coupler is another option, but seems expensive and complicated for this purpose. I'm sure the custom builders can come up with better options as well, You just have to ask! I had James at Blacksheep build be new frame last summer, and although the belt drive was not a consideration, it just so happens that it will work with a belt. The reasons for the setup are chain tensioning and so I can take the frame apart for traveling. I am just waiting for the 32t cog to become available, and I will give it a shot.
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  22. #22
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    The S&S on the chainstay looks PIMP. I like it.
    There's always money in the banana stand.

  23. #23
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    Another thing to consider is the clearance for the front ring- those belt drive rings are much fatter than a chainring and your beltline has to be perfect so you don't have much lateral room to play with.
    That's one reason the Spot's chainstays are so long.

  24. #24
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    Hasa Carbon.. er sumthin?

    Saw this on ebizzle for $500:
    <br><br>
    Hasa Full Carbon
    <br>

    <br><br>

    <br><br>
    Similar to the Salsa mentioned before only cheaper to dismantle.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Crash
    Saw this on ebizzle for $500:
    <br><br>
    Hasa Full Carbon
    <br>

    <br><br>

    <br><br>
    Similar to the Salsa mentioned before only cheaper to dismantle.
    no way to tension the belt so it is useless for belt drive
    Quote Originally Posted by thefuzzbl
    aluminium has a tendency to fail when you need it most. i.e. you end up with a bad day.

  26. #26
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    Would a tensioner work with a belt?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by perttime
    Would a tensioner work with a belt?
    only once someone makes a tensioner designed for belts. The wheel on the tensioner would have to have the same tooth style as the cogs/rings.

    I doubt it will happen though. To run belt drive, most people will get a frame designed with proper split dropouts and those will all be SS ready anyway

  28. #28
    you said.. Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    only once someone makes a tensioner designed for belts. The wheel on the tensioner would have to have the same tooth style as the cogs/rings.

    I doubt it will happen though. To run belt drive, most people will get a frame designed with proper split dropouts and those will all be SS ready anyway
    <br>
    How 'bout an Eno style hub or one of those eccentric bottom brackets from these guys: http://www.forwardcomponents.blogspot.com/
    I've never seen a belt in action but it seems either or both should work. Or maybe not...
    <br>
    I think my truck has a belt tensioner but I'm sure it adds plenty of drag to they system. OK for an engine but not for your legs. Not mine anyway, I got enough problems.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Crash
    <br>
    How 'bout an Eno style hub or one of those eccentric bottom brackets from these guys: http://www.forwardcomponents.blogspot.com/
    I've never seen a belt in action but it seems either or both should work. Or maybe not...
    <br>
    I think my truck has a belt tensioner but I'm sure it adds plenty of drag to they system. OK for an engine but not for your legs. Not mine anyway, I got enough problems.
    I think you're right; those EBBs should work the same. Thats a cool option to have

    The ENO hub is threaded for a freewheel though. We will have to wait for a freewheel with the right teeth

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