Singlespeed chainring bolts delimma? Alloy vs. TI- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    285

    Singlespeed chainring bolts delimma? Alloy vs. TI

    So I just stripped out one of my POS alloy SS bolts when moving my Gates Beltring to some new crankarms.

    Does anyone have any recommendations or opinions on TI vs Alloy bolts?
    Steel is out of the question based on weight.

    Thanks in advance.
    ALSO...if alloy is hte choice I see Problem Solvers, Vuelta, or Sugino (more expensive but whatever)

    Man I wish I knew the garbage that I had before on my Spot!
    Last edited by illcomm33; 02-06-2010 at 05:24 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jonzinmj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    88
    Without sounding incredibly uninformed, I'm going to say I'm in complete disagreement. Steel Sugino bolts have been the only ones that I have found success with. Add blue Loctite and you're golden. If stripping your bolts is the problem, I can't imagine how more alloy bolts would be the answer. Maybe I shouldn't have answered this post or any post asking about Ti.

  3. #3
    bike rider
    Reputation: mattkock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,152
    FSA are pretty freaking lite and they are Torx head so you can really clamp down.
    My Bikes Kick Ass!!!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    285

    Fair enough...

    I can understand that...I have steel SS bolts on my Surly Crosscheck commuter and they have been good. My whole point is that this is for my Spot Longboard SS. I have been upgrading over the year to better components and save weight as I have done endurance racing on my 26'er Intense Spider...but am going with the SS spot for 2010. I know the difference is marginal at best but why not make the bike as light as possible...especially if "the race" this year might be Leadville 100.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,667
    I personally would get steel ones. I really like the Truvativ dual hex head ones. Otherwise for Ti Actiontec makes some.

  6. #6
    bike-zilla
    Reputation: greengreer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    241
    Steel is real, the weight is negligible, for a SS you need the reliability. My 2 cents

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    285

    Can't argue steel is real...

    My boys all run Ti Black Sheeps....cute... but too much cash for me.
    My Surly and Spot are sick...love the feel. Got rid of my RIG 29er which was awesome (G2 is the real deal but the "harshness" felt cheap & is is completely diff. than my Spot.
    My Alloy bolts weighed in at 16 grams. How much for 4 steels?

  8. #8
    Out spokin'
    Reputation: Sparticus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    9,661
    Quote Originally Posted by greengreer
    Steel is real, the weight is negligible, for a SS you need the reliability. My 2 cents
    +1.

    Personally I use steel. Given the choice of alloy or ti, I'd choose ti because I'll never use alloy chainring bolts. Too many bad stories. That said, I'd never pay whatever it costs to acquire ti CR bolts, because they'd probably cost ten or twenty times what steel ones do and they couldn't save more than a few grams at best. My 3 pesos.

    --Sparty
    disciplesofdirt.org

    We don't quit riding because we get old.
    We get old because we quit riding.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    288

  10. #10
    Out spokin'
    Reputation: Sparticus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    9,661
    Oops. Okay, they're only about 3x what I pay for steel ones.

    --Sparty
    disciplesofdirt.org

    We don't quit riding because we get old.
    We get old because we quit riding.

  11. #11
    Sweep the leg!
    Reputation: Caffeine Powered's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,803
    the Truvative alloy bolts love to snap in half when I put modest torque on them. But nice Sugino or Campagnolo steel bolts can be torqued so they don't loosen and with a thin film of grease they won't corrode and be irremovable. I've had two friends lose chain ring bolts in the last two years. One did so at Ore to Shore and it ended his day.

    so to summarize, alloy is useless, Ti is too expensive for an insignificant weight loss and steel is priced right and reliable. Because if you can't finish a ride... it wasn't a ride, it was a walk with your bike.
    Authorities speculate that speed may have been a factor. They are also holding gravity and inertia for questioning.

  12. #12
    blame me for missed rides
    Reputation: weather's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    789
    Quote Originally Posted by illcomm33
    My boys all run Ti Black Sheeps....cute... but too much cash for me.
    My Surly and Spot are sick...love the feel. Got rid of my RIG 29er which was awesome (G2 is the real deal but the "harshness" felt cheap & is is completely diff. than my Spot.
    My Alloy bolts weighed in at 16 grams. How much for 4 steels?
    about twice as much. i.e. 32 grams.

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/li...php?type=bolts

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    917
    Being a total weight weenie I rode alloy for a long time. I found myself getting much stronger so I decided to go from my 33/20to a 33/19 on my 29er single speed. Second time out on the gearing I snapped a chainring nut. [email protected]&k up my ride since my chain kept coming off, it's a 4 bolt crank. So I went home and replaced them all. Second ride out I broke another one. I put in black stainless steel ones and even though I now have a 33/18 gearing the bolts have been fine. I might be tempted to try titanium and possible the new KCNC alloy that have more material and use a 4mm hex key but I would never go back to regular alloy single speed chainring bolts.
    OB1 Kielbasa

    One is good!

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    285

    No alloy for me...so now on to the next steps....

    Thanks for the responses and suggestions. I am definitely not going alloy based on everyone's rec and my experience. The problem is I didn't spend the money or time up to this point looking for and buying lightweight components to stop now and so I probably want to go with TI. (The bolts will be going on an XTR 970 crank arm and Gates Carbon Drive "beltring."

    NJ bikes on ebay sells some BMX TI Bolts but look how short they are! (4mm)
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    Does anyone know of a (or even purchased from) a TI SS Bolt shop that carries true 6mm bolts?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: azjonboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,671
    Make sure you get the GR5 6/4.
    If you're lucky enough to be in the mountains,
    you're lucky enough.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    285
    Thanks for the heads up. Do you run TI? I also found these Royce Royce Titanium Chainring Bolts - Single Chainring Cranks (10 grams for TI bolts and alloy nuts?) That seems strange.


    http://www.totalcycling.com/index.ph...B_ROYCE_S.html

    Bikeman has these:
    Sugino Single Chainrng Bolts: Set of 5, chromed single-speed chainring bolts. Includes back nuts and 6mm bolts. The set weighs 20grams and is designed for use on BMX, Track, and Single-Speed bikes.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: azjonboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,671
    I run steel. On 3 Black Sheep. That's one place I don't want to worry about. Stay away from chromed as it can make the steel brittle if not done right.
    If you're lucky enough to be in the mountains,
    you're lucky enough.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    285
    Azjonboy,
    That is good to know especially since you run steel on the Sheep.
    Not even sure about the Chromed anyway so I will make sure to note steel going forward.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    7,170
    Quote Originally Posted by illcomm33
    ...Steel is out of the question based on weight...
    Something that works isn't too heavy. Something that doesn't work is too heavy, no matter how light it is.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 5736' Highlands, Scotland

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.