Single Speed Cog ?'s- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Single Speed Cog ?'s

    Will a Shimano hyperglide cog work on a singlespeed cassette hub? The teeth are not cut nearly as deep. I saw a guy at my BMX track use one on a Shimano DX BMX cassette hub and he ate sh*t all three gate starts because his chain kept coming off and not because it was too loose. Will the ramps cut in the side of the cog to aid shifting render the cog useless for a singlespeed and constantly want to dump the chain? I would rather hear it from someone rather than experience it personally. Here is my line of thinking, the chain wrap is basically the same as a geared bike and the chainline is probably better on a SS and the chain is tighter since it is bolted in place and not tensioned by a derailleur spring tension so why wouldn't it work/

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asshauler
    Will a Shimano hyperglide cog work on a singlespeed cassette hub? The teeth are not cut nearly as deep. I saw a guy at my BMX track use one on a Shimano DX BMX cassette hub and he ate sh*t all three gate starts because his chain kept coming off and not because it was too loose. Will the ramps cut in the side of the cog to aid shifting render the cog useless for a singlespeed and constantly want to dump the chain? I would rather hear it from someone rather than experience it personally. Here is my line of thinking, the chain wrap is basically the same as a geared bike and the chainline is probably better on a SS and the chain is tighter since it is bolted in place and not tensioned by a derailleur spring tension so why wouldn't it work/
    The ramps can derail the chain pretty quick, especially under a hard cranking load where the frame may flex. It hurts. I am guessing the guy at the track either had a f'd up chain line or had some how bent the cog. I have never had a problem with my dx cogs.
    "Life is a F@#^ing story problem, get used to it - my son.

  3. #3
    semi-evolved simian
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asshauler
    Will a Shimano hyperglide cog work on a singlespeed cassette hub? The teeth are not cut nearly as deep. I saw a guy at my BMX track use one on a Shimano DX BMX cassette hub and he ate sh*t all three gate starts because his chain kept coming off and not because it was too loose. Will the ramps cut in the side of the cog to aid shifting render the cog useless for a singlespeed and constantly want to dump the chain? I would rather hear it from someone rather than experience it personally. Here is my line of thinking, the chain wrap is basically the same as a geared bike and the chainline is probably better on a SS and the chain is tighter since it is bolted in place and not tensioned by a derailleur spring tension so why wouldn't it work/
    In my experience Shimano DX cogs work great, as do Novatec cogs. Your chainline should be near perfect on a SS, no excuses here, a bad chainline will cause problems. As to using hyperglide cogs they'll probably be fine so long as chainline and chain tension are spot on. You put a lot more torque through them on a SS than on a gearie when standing and climbing, the derailleur on a gearie will also help to keep the chain in place.

    My opinion: Get a DX or Novatec cog and never have to worry about it.

  4. #4
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    Hyperglide will work, but...

    Like everyone says, your chainline and tension need to be spot on. I have used a 21t hyperglide cog to save my legs at the HarmonicConvergence in Longview, WA two years running, but both years were on my Vulture with no frame flex, good tension, and good chainline.
    For the best cog, as Ian said above, Novatech is the way to go, you can get it in 16, 18, and 20. I have used the 18 for over a year now in the northwet up here in mud and muck and it still looks almost new. And it is only $4 a pop.
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  5. #5
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    Don't do it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Asshauler
    Will a Shimano hyperglide cog work on a singlespeed cassette hub? The teeth are not cut nearly as deep. I saw a guy at my BMX track use one on a Shimano DX BMX cassette hub and he ate sh*t all three gate starts because his chain kept coming off and not because it was too loose. Will the ramps cut in the side of the cog to aid shifting render the cog useless for a singlespeed and constantly want to dump the chain? I would rather hear it from someone rather than experience it personally. Here is my line of thinking, the chain wrap is basically the same as a geared bike and the chainline is probably better on a SS and the chain is tighter since it is bolted in place and not tensioned by a derailleur spring tension so why wouldn't it work/
    Spend the 5 bucks and get a DX or Novatec cog.

    I've tried to make the Hyperglide cogs work, but my cranks have a bit of unevenness to them - there's a tight spot and a loose spot as you spin the cranks around. Maybe without that you could get them to be foolproof. I could get it to work most of the time, but every once in a while it would derail, usually as I was hammer up a steep technical section. Very Bad Thing.

  6. #6
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    Can be done.....

    .......but really if you are skint and can't afford a DX, Novatech or a Boone (mmmmmm drool).
    I made mine work by having two outer plates on my tensioner which are considerably bigger than the pulley, about and extra 5mm from the point of the teeth. This allows me to run a nice tension that gives a smooth spin. What the plates do is guide the chain over the tensioner and the straight on to the sprocket. I have also made the tensioner so that it sits pretty close to the sprocket as well.



    As for the binding you get that Glowboy mentioned. I have found if you just nip the chainring bolts up very lightly and spin the cranks for a while, it settles the chainring in a nice equlibrium on the crank. Without touching the chain tighten the bolts and you should have a chain that doesn't bind up as much. Personally I don't think this would derail the chain, it is probably due more to wrong tension, worn chain new sprocket or vice versa, or bad chainline/flexy frame.
    'When he's not in action, he's in traction.'

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by devlin
    As for the binding you get that Glowboy mentioned. I have found if you just nip the chainring bolts up very lightly and spin the cranks for a while, it settles the chainring in a nice equlibrium on the crank. Without touching the chain tighten the bolts and you should have a chain that doesn't bind up as much. Personally I don't think this would derail the chain, it is probably due more to wrong tension, worn chain new sprocket or vice versa, or bad chainline/flexy frame.
    Nope. Both of my cranksets are a little too out-of-round (off-balance?) to make that work perfectly. I still do that every time I change rings to minimize the unevenness, but there's always some left and it's always in the same spot, even after centering the ring as much as possible.

  8. #8
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
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    it may work, try it

    although convention wisdom says no, I put a 21t hyperglide cog on my winter towner SS and it has functioned flawlessly. higher likelihood it wouldn't work if you use a tensioner. with a straight chain, it's worth trying.
    I believe harriscyclery.com still carries uniglide twist tooth cogs, which definitely work great, tensioner or no

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