Several EBB questions...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Several EBB questions...

    So I picked up a SS 29er this spring (Haro Mary) and I'm absolutely lovin' it! Makes some boring old trails new and fun again. I even raced it at Dawn 'til Dusk in Gallup last weekend. The EBB has always had just a wee bit of a creak, not a lot but if I can shut it up I'd sure like to. So last night I decided to pull it apart to clean the dirt out and put on some anti-seize. So now I have a bunch of questions. (And yes, I did run several searches and did not find the answers I was looking for).

    1. There are some pretty good scars where the two bolts that hold it in place hit the aluminum body. I assume this is OK?

    2. The drive-side crank and spindle will not slide out of the BB. If I tap on the exposed splines on the non-drive side of the spindle, I can get it to slide out a little but it binds up just as the splines start to disappear into the BB. I put the BB in a vise and tried to hammer the spindle through, but it didn't want to come out. I assume this is a problem and that the spindle should come out of the BB? Should I hammer harder?

    3. OK, so if I just leave the spindle in and reassemble everything, where should the anti-seize go? On the widest part of the EBB that contacts the BB shell?

    4. Finally, chain length. The chain has stretched to the point that there is 1 1/2 to 2 inches of play, even when the EBB is rotated fully forward. But if I rotate the EBB fully backward, there is not enough chain to remove a link and still connect the ends with the Power Link. Is there some sort of half-link that can be used?

    I appreciate any advice or suggestions.

  2. #2
    meh... whatever
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    1. yes.

    2. use a rubber mallet and strike in a more robust manner.

    3. coat the inside of the bb shell.

    4. a) with the ebb rotated completely to the rear, shorten the chain and connect. b) if its not long enough to connect then shorten at the closest link and connect. c) rotate ebb forward until chain is tensioned.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  3. #3
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    What monogod said! I've tried lots of different greases, and so far that peanut butter looking grease from dumonde seems to last the longest. The trails here are never fully dry, and I hate working on my bike =)
    It's not hip hop, it's electro.....

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beam
    2. The drive-side crank and spindle will not slide out of the BB. If I tap on the exposed splines on the non-drive side of the spindle, I can get it to slide out a little but it binds up just as the splines start to disappear into the BB. I put the BB in a vise and tried to hammer the spindle through, but it didn't want to come out. I assume this is a problem and that the spindle should come out of the BB? Should I hammer harder?
    Are you trying to get the spindle out of the bottom bracket? or the EBB out of the frame? Also, did you grease the threads of the BB before inserting it into the EBB. That can also creak.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beam
    3. OK, so if I just leave the spindle in and reassemble everything, where should the anti-seize go? On the widest part of the EBB that contacts the BB shell?
    You can also wrap teflon plumbers tape around the widest part,then insert the EBB into the frame, that will last longer than grease or anti-seize.
    Todd............. If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague

  5. #5
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    i tried to put a 16t cog on my new zion.
    and i couldn't get it to work.
    the chain either wouldn't tighten or it was too short.
    a half link would be needed in a situation like this.

    KMC makes one.
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/166...-Half-Link.htm

    I ended up putting on a 18t cog and the EBB works just fine.

  6. #6
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    Huh?

    Quote Originally Posted by monogod

    4. a) with the ebb rotated completely to the rear, shorten the chain and connect. b) if its not long enough to connect then shorten at the closest link and connect. c) rotate ebb forward until chain is tensioned.
    Thanks for the tips! (BTW, your avatar is way cool) But I don't get the chain problem. With the EBB fully forward, the chain is too loose. With the EBB fully rear-ward, there is not enough excess chain to remove a link. Not sure what to do about that.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beam
    Thanks for the tips! (BTW, your avatar is way cool) But I don't get the chain problem. With the EBB fully forward, the chain is too loose. With the EBB fully rear-ward, there is not enough excess chain to remove a link. Not sure what to do about that.
    Just drop the chain off the chainring, install your power link, then put the chain back on the chainring.
    Todd............. If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague

  8. #8
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    Been there, done that...

    Quote Originally Posted by 32seventeen
    Just drop the chain off the chainring, install your power link, then put the chain back on the chainring.
    I already have a power link in the chain.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beam
    I already have a power link in the chain.
    Okay, you are trying to remove the power link from your Mary, right??
    Drop your rear wheel out of the bike, disconnect your power link....Done
    Todd............. If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague

  10. #10
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    Argh!

    Quote Originally Posted by 32seventeen
    Okay, you are trying to remove the power link from your Mary, right??
    Drop your rear wheel out of the bike, disconnect your power link....Done
    Appreciate everyone's attempts to help with chain length, didn't think it could get so complicated.

    Chain HAS a power link. I CAN take it on and off at will. That is NOT the problem.

    Chain is TOO LOOSE when EBB is rotated fully forward to tighten chain as much as possible. Chain is NOT LONG ENOUGH to remove a link when EBB is rotated fully rear-ward. Is there a fix for this? Is there such a thing as a half-link?

    Thx

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beam
    Chain is TOO LOOSE when EBB is rotated fully forward to tighten chain as much as possible. Chain is NOT LONG ENOUGH to remove a link when EBB is rotated fully rear-ward. Is there a fix for this? Is there such a thing as a half-link?
    Your chain is probably worn (stretched), and removing 2 links is greater than the 1/2" the eBB is designed to cover. Or the eBB does not cover 1/2" range, which is unlikely (but some were like this!)

    1/2 links are available, but try a new chain first.

  12. #12
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    1/2 links are readily available. Most BMX or SS friendly shops have them. They's cheap.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beam

    Chain is TOO LOOSE when EBB is rotated fully forward to tighten chain as much as possible. Chain is NOT LONG ENOUGH to remove a link when EBB is rotated fully rear-ward. Is there a fix for this? Is there such a thing as a half-link?

    Thx
    Yeah, you need a half link. The cheap EBB's used on a lot of frames is the same unit. Unfortunately it DOES NOT have enough throw to accommodate all gears. I had the same problem on my Zion with a 32X18 (my most common gear). I have a Phil Wood EBB that has more throw, and it isn't a problem anymore. A half link is about 50X cheaper than a PW EBB, so have at it.

    Half linkin' ain't bad. Almost good enough to make me want the new PW Half Link EBB (so tight, as the kids say).
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