Serious Crank Help Requested.......(X-Post Drivetrain)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Serious Crank Help Requested.......(X-Post Drivetrain)

    I was getting ready to pull my old Strongarm cranks off to replace them with my Race Face cranks. Using the old trusty crank extrator, I tightened it down and began to try and pull the cranks. At the point that the cranks usually began to move, I noticed a little more resistance and gave it a little more torque. Instead of the cranks moving the crank extractor attached to the cranks internal threads started pulling out and proceeded to strip the cranks threads on the drive side. I went over and tested the non drive side and the same thing. This time I did not force the issue so the threads are still intact. My question is how in the hell can I get these cranks off? I don't mind if the bottom bracket has to die in the process, I just don't want to mess up the bb shell on the frame.

    Help me please! I have a day off work without the wife and kids and I can't ride. This sucks.

    Thanks
    Dirt

  2. #2
    got bike?
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirt_donkey
    I was getting ready to pull my old Strongarm cranks off to replace them with my Race Face cranks. Using the old trusty crank extrator, I tightened it down and began to try and pull the cranks. At the point that the cranks usually began to move, I noticed a little more resistance and gave it a little more torque. Instead of the cranks moving the crank extractor attached to the cranks internal threads started pulling out and proceeded to strip the cranks threads on the drive side. I went over and tested the non drive side and the same thing. This time I did not force the issue so the threads are still intact. My question is how in the hell can I get these cranks off? I don't mind if the bottom bracket has to die in the process, I just don't want to mess up the bb shell on the frame.

    Help me please! I have a day off work without the wife and kids and I can't ride. This sucks.

    Thanks
    Dirt

    I had that problem once but I was able to get the non drive side crank off. I had to get a machinist freind of mine to get them off. After several unsuccessful attempts, he used a hammer and a punch to drive out the BB and pulled the whole thing out. Ruined the BB, but saved the frame. Then, just for fun, he put it on a torque press to see how stuck it was. Took 4000 ft/lb of torque before it finnally came off.

  3. #3
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    A couple of things will/might work for you:

    1--what type of crank are removal tool are you using? The Park one seems to work very well because it has lot's of threads and can work with only a couple of them intact.
    2--You can try to get them off by using a rubber mallet and a short 2x4 and start pounding them off. This would be worst case scenario.

    Also check the parktool.com website. They should have something on there for this.

    Good luck

    Rich
    Proud Tribe member since 1992 - looking for better singletrack to be ridden year round

  4. #4
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    Before you go crazy with a hammer...

    ...try riding around without the crankbolts in. It doesn't always work but sometimes it does and it's a lot easier than anything else. If that doesn't work, get a battery cable remover from an autoparts store. It has two or three arms that will reach around the crankarm and get tighter as the center shaft pushes harder against the spindle. VAR makes a tool very much like this but it's suer expensive and most shops don't have one.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
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    I like the riding around idea

    Quote Originally Posted by dannybob
    ...try riding around without the crankbolts in. It doesn't always work but sometimes it does and it's a lot easier than anything else. If that doesn't work, get a battery cable remover from an autoparts store. ...
    The battery cable puller idea probably will not work. Battery clamps are made of lead or copper, both very soft materials, battery pullers are not made to deal with steel. But a regular pulley puller is. I use a cheapie puller to pull bearings off BB spindles all the time.

    Try any heat on it yet?

    Either way both the crank and BB sound shot and a hacksaw might be the smarter choice. We will keep our fingers crossed on getting that BB out of there.

  6. #6
    cmh
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    I've been (am) there

    I had this happen on my RaceFace Prodigy cranks, but only because I was sloppy with the installation of the Park crank remover. I used a gear puller with mixed results -- it chewed up the back of the crank spider, and sometimes wouldn't stay put. Best results I've had is using dannybob's suggestion. I pull the crank bolt, and ride around the driveway, doing trackstands and high-torque starts. That usually gets the cranks loose in about 3-4 minutes.

    If the cranks are frozen on and won't come loose after riding without the crank bolt, you could try a penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my favorite) or heat (like Ratt said) - the aluminum will expand more than the steel BB spindle, increasing the gap. Just be careful with that approach!

  7. #7
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    Success!!!

    I was finally able to get the non-drive side arm off using the advice I got from a response from the Drivetrain side of the house. I threaded the crank puller (he he he, he said crank puller) onto the crank arm. I then tightened the extrator spindle down tight against the bb axle. I then tapped on the end of the crank puller with hammer. Then I would tighten the spindle some more, tap tap tap, tighten, tap tap tap, tighten and finally the crank arm came off. I then began to take the bb out starting with the non-drive side and during this process the drive side bb loosened just enough that I could remove the whole bb using an old bb wrench I had laying around. The other crank arm is still on the damn thing. But I really appreciate all of your help on this. This damn forum is the best for getting quick help on odd repairs.

    Thanks a bunch
    Dirt

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