Rennen SS Kit Help- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Rennen SS Kit Help

    I purchased a Rennen SS kit for my Gary Fisher HKEK. I chose 32/18, purchasing the chainring and cog/spacer kit, along with a rollenlager. I installed the chainring and cog/spacer kit today, and was fooling around with chain length. I am fairly certain I am going to need a half link, as there is too much slack with one link in, and it is almost too tight with the link out. I was able to set it up in this "tight" setting, and ride around the block without a tensioner, but the chain had a tight spot and eventually broke under heavy pressure.

    Questions: Should the chainring be installed where my previous middle chainring was, or where the third (largest) chainring was? I put it in the middle, and the chainline looks fairly straight. (I am using my old 3-ring cranks)

    My stock skewer will not fit with the rollenlager (even though I read that it would), what length skewer do you all use? I would also be open to getting a bolt on rear wheel if you could point me in the right direction.

    And my primary concern: When I mount up the rollenlager, it appears that there will be NO way for it to work with my chainline. As is, the chain sits on top of the retaining wall at the far edge of the rollenlager's wheel (closest to hub). It appears that I would need a new axle for it, along with a few spacers in order to get the wheel set towards the hub enough for this chainline. This is not my original dropout, maybe this one is too thick?

    Any help would be great. Today was a long exercise in frustration.

    update: I've read quite a bit on the subject, and am probably going to get a new chain to ensure that my old 9-speed chain is not stretched out (could be the cause of the "skipping"/tight spot). Should I just get a standard 8-speed chain?
    Last edited by TXPhisher; 04-15-2008 at 07:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    so with the extra link in, if you put the rollenlager in the wheel of the tensioner hits the bottom of the chainstay (or the rennen won't push up any further)?
    The ring should be in the same place as in the 3 ring set up. Do you have spacers on between the shell and BB? Maybe u can remove/add some, hence shifting the spacers on the cassette shell... and getting the chain to drop into the groove?

  3. #3
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    get a SS chain. it will stay on the ring/cog better,and be stronger.

    with the rennen SS spacers you can change your chainline by threading/unthreadin them,so put the ring in front on the outside and change your chainline with the spacers to make it straight,and it should drop in the gap on your tensioner.

    rennen makes good stuff. let us know if this helps.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by unfluid one
    so with the extra link in, if you put the rollenlager in the wheel of the tensioner hits the bottom of the chainstay (or the rennen won't push up any further)?
    The ring should be in the same place as in the 3 ring set up. Do you have spacers on between the shell and BB? Maybe u can remove/add some, hence shifting the spacers on the cassette shell... and getting the chain to drop into the groove?
    Yep, with the extra link in, the rollenlager cannot push down far enough to put tension on the chain. With the link out, the chain binds in certain spots during a crank.

    I have played around a lot with the spacers, and am fairly convinced what I need is a longer bolt for the rollenlager (and some washers). I'm going to dig through the shop tomorrow and see if anything turns up that looks like it will work. I'll check and see if the shop carries singlespeed chains.

    Guess I should clarify: With the extra link out, the rollenlager must push down (not up towards chainstay), and cannot extend far enough downward to put tension on the chain. It's really amazing how much difference 1 link makes.

    I managed to swap out my skewer with another one that is just a wee bit longer, allowing the rollenlager to mount up.

  5. #5
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    From my experience, the Rennen fellas are good at responding and I've heard from others that they may give you specific advice or spacers or something if it's not working out for you.
    Might be worth a try.

  6. #6
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    Ended up taking it to my LBS. They are having the same problem I am with a tight spot and loose spot with pretty extreme slack. It's always at the same spot in the pedal stroke-I guess I just got an especially out of round chain ring. I had them work on trying to get it concentric with the crank for a while, and I had put many hours into it. I didn't want a spring loaded tensioner, as I don't want any noise, but it looks like that is the way I'm going to have to go. Or buy another chain ring.

  7. #7
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    I've have had great results with this method.

    A small amout of material removed from the axle makes for a nice fit.
    Intensecycles
    Easternbikes
    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    now, go dig a giant hole and bury your dumb ass in it....

  8. #8
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    Sounds like you have a biopace ring

    if the change is that extreme. Kidding of course. Did your LBS match your chain ring against a same tooth chain ring to see if your chain ring is ovalized?

    A lil bit of change in slack is normal, but if it's that extreme....???

    Also, as an fyi, I think I recall on Sheldon's Brown website that "proper" tension (for any type SS) is about 1 inch lateral movement at the midpoint of the chain between cog and chain ring.
    Happy new year..Stuff $: Eno 29wheel (non disc), Yakima, 2 steelheads, with towers for Volvo luggage rails.

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