Rear wheel "dish" question- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Rear wheel "dish" question

    I'm converting an old rigid mt bike to SS, I have a mavic rear wheel that takes a thread on freewheel.

    Should I get the wheel rebuilt with NO dish? Does that create the most optimum spacing for SS? I'll be just putting on a single cog freewheel but I don't know how the chainline will come out, I have a triple crank in the front that I'll need to convert but I don't know where to start with getting the chainline figured out.

    Unless you can use spacers with a freewheel (can you?) it seems like I just have to go with threading on a SS freewheel and then play with the BB spindle length and chainring spacers to get the chainline dialed in.

    Am I on the right track? What's the easiest way to go about it? Would buying a SS cassette hub for the back be cheaper in the long run since I can just use spacers at that point to get chainline figured out?

    I'm baffled, thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    Hairshirt Rider
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    Many option for dialing in chainline..

    here's a few I've used

    1. Chainring - you can mount it outside (big ring position) or inside (middle ring position) for a few mm

    2. Freewheel spacers - yes they make them

    3. BB spindle length

    or

    4. If you are using a cartridge bb that has flange that tightens against the drive-side of the bb shell, you can use up to a 5 mm freewheel spacer between the flange and shell.

    I'd leave the wheel alone, but that's just me.

  3. #3
    Medium?
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    Dish comes after chainline

    If you're going to have the wheel rebuilt, cut the hub out of the wheel, and exchange the big spacer from the freewheel side with a locknut from the other side; YMMV. Then put the hub in the dropouts and check the chainline. I like to use a steel straight edge on the chainring to see where the rear cog needs to be. Most SSers like a perfect chainline, but in my experience, especially if you're using a derailler chain, it can be a few mm off without issue.

    Once you have the chainline figured out, the wheelbuilder (you should do it yourself, it's not hard) can dish the wheel into the center of the dropouts.

  4. #4
    Retro Grouch
    Reputation: aka brad's Avatar
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    I know what your thinking...

    Quote Originally Posted by Spidermonkey
    I'm converting an old rigid mt bike to SS, I have a mavic rear wheel that takes a thread on freewheel.

    Should I get the wheel rebuilt with NO dish? Does that create the most optimum spacing for SS? I'll be just putting on a single cog freewheel but I don't know how the chainline will come out, I have a triple crank in the front that I'll need to convert but I don't know where to start with getting the chainline figured out.

    Unless you can use spacers with a freewheel (can you?) it seems like I just have to go with threading on a SS freewheel and then play with the BB spindle length and chainring spacers to get the chainline dialed in.

    Am I on the right track? What's the easiest way to go about it? Would buying a SS cassette hub for the back be cheaper in the long run since I can just use spacers at that point to get chainline figured out?

    I'm baffled, thanks for any help.
    First it can be gone. Second you may need to respace the hub or you could have major chainline problems. The spin on freewheel hubs place a BMX freewheel too far to the inside. I've heard of spacing the freewheel but it has it limitations to about 1mm or so. Plan on respacing the hub as far over to the right as possible and then redish. With the chainring on the inside of the spider and a narrow bottom bracket it should work.The addition of the chainring spacers might mitigate your problem; check out <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/singlespeed.html#wheels"> Harris Cyclery </a>.

    Brad
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    Last edited by aka brad; 03-25-2004 at 08:36 AM. Reason: Who wants to know?

  5. #5
    all hail der Fuhrer Bush
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    respace, redish

    some hubs have one big honking R side spacer for the freewheel, others have several smaller ones. You'll want to move some. most, or all of the R side spacers to the L side. It's good to have some extra spacers of various thicknesses on hand from discarded hubs so you can play with the spacing to get it Perfect, just so the total overlocknut distance remains the same. It's kinda trial and error so start with the hub in the frame, until it looks like perfect alignment with either the middle or big ring position on the crank spider. It's always cheaper to start with redishing the hub than to run out and buy a new spindle length.
    After you got the chainline nailed, it's smart to put a drop of penetrating oil at each nipple/spoke interface because with used wheels, sometimes the nipples will be seized which leads to the heartbreak of rounded nipples when you try turning them.
    then it's just a matter of loosening all the R nipples a set amount, then tightening all the L nipples a set amount. Start with maybe a full turn, progress thru quarter turns, whatever seems right, then do the final truing. Ain't hard. If you lack a stand, you can do a decent job on a frame with rim brakes, tighten the brakes and use the brake blocks as a gauge.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the info!

    Thanks guys, that's a big help. Sounds like it's a bit of trial and error but it's encouraging to know it's very do-able. I'll try the re-dishing myself when I get to that point.

    Any freewheel type reccomendations? I have a 36T mid ring already so probably an 18-20T should do it sizewise.

    Thanks again!

    patrick

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