Rear Wheel Allignment- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Rear Wheel Allignment

    Mom and Dad got me a 2011 Trek/GF Marlin SS for xmas this year. Although this isn't my first single speed bike, it is my first with disc brakes. Well, being the tinkerer that I am, I immediately started taking things apart on the bike and noticed that the rear wheel was out of line. So I followed procedure as I would on my other bike by adjusting the tugs (or whatever they are called). After doing so and putting the wheel back on the discs rub on the pads. So if I adjust the alignment of the rear wheel what do I have to do to the brakes to correct for the change? Does the tightness of the quick release affect the position of the brakes?

    Also. The bike came with this silly plastic chain guard, so I took it off, but it left behind a bracket that held it on. Do I need to pull the cranks and the BB to get this thingy off?
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  2. #2
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    caliper adjustment

    all you have to do is ,loosen top two caliper bolts,then grab a handful of brake retighten before letting go/ta da

  3. #3
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    Congratulations. It appears to me that the answer is yes, you'll have to remove the BB to get rid of the chainguard mount.

    Just in case any confusion remains after operator123's comment, the caliper bolts are the ones that hold the white caliper to the black mount. You shouldn't have to mess with the brake mount bolts. The bolt holes in the caliper should be elongated to allow for back & forth movement to align the caliper with the rotor. Squeezing the the brake lever when the bolts are loose should self-align the caliper. Retighten the bolts while maintaining pressure on the brake lever; release the lever once the bolts are tight.

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  4. #4
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    Much thanks. Got everything straightened out.

    Considering the bike just came from the LBS a few weeks ago, do you think they would have a problem removing the chainguard mount or would they try to charge me for that?

    Would it be cheaper to buy a BB tool rather than pay to have it removed if that is the case?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beatniqwood09
    ...
    Considering the bike just came from the LBS a few weeks ago, do you think they would have a problem removing the chainguard mount or would they try to charge me for that?
    ...
    That might vary from one LBS to the next. Personally, if they charged me to remove it, my next transaction would be with one of their competitors.

    Quote Originally Posted by Beatniqwood09
    ...
    Would it be cheaper to buy a BB tool rather than pay to have it removed if that is the case?
    As for paying to have something done or wrenching my bike myself, I would would buy the tool and wrench for myself, even if the cost were higher, unless it was prohibitive. For example, I don't install my own headsets as the correct tool is very expensive (plus I don't change headsets often).

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  6. #6
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    WRT the BB (which looks like a Truvative Powerspline), the left and right crank arms need to be removed, then a BB tool is used to undo the non-drive side cup, and the same tool is used to remove the drive side (which will be attached to the bearings and spindle. The chain guard will then slide off the bottom bracket. It's hard to get this wrong when doing the work yourself, but you need to torque everything correctly when putting it all back together, especially the crank bolts.

    IMO, get the bike shop to remove it. Pay if you have to, but I doubt you will. That guard doesn't appear to be OEM, so the shop might have installed it themselves.
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  7. #7
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    It may just be the photo, but in the shot of your tire it looks like your wheel isn't straight in the frame. It looks centered between the seat stays, but if you look at the alignment to the seat tube it looks like it's off to the left. That makes me think that your wheel isn't dished correctly. Is it centered between the chain stays? if so, then it's probably just the camera angle messing me up.

  8. #8
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    Congrats on the new bike. Cool parents for sure.

    Regarding the brakes, well, you have discovered one of the Achilles heels of SS designs - disc brake alignment. So, line up the wheel so that it is centered and then adjust the brakes like someone described before, then use a fine tip sharpie to trace the rear side of the QR or axle nut on the non drive side, so you can get it back to the right spot if you have to remove the wheel. At least, this works for me.

    Some folks use chain tugs on the non drive side just to help in getting the alignment right every time if they have to remove the wheel. Personally I think that is unnecessary, but whatever works.

    Ps just looked more closely at the pics you posted. It looks like you have a thumbscrew setting for the left side rear wheel QR.so you probably just need to adjust the brake alignment and you will be all set.
    Last edited by PoisonDartFrog; 12-26-2010 at 06:53 AM.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the input. I've gotten everything lined up. I am pretty stoked to get out and ride it. Unfortunatly its snowing now. Calling for about 5 inches here in Richmond Va . I dont know how I feel about my first ride on a new bike in 5 inches of snow. Ugh

  10. #10
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    Interesting, a slider on one side and a swinger on the other. And they placed the limit screws correctly on the disc side.

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